b16a intake Q

[rage_against]

looking at upgrading the intake manifold, the only 2 after market items i can find are the skunk 2 pro, or an edelbrock, i also want to do the TB and intake, just wandering if anyone has any combinations that work, has anyone got the skunk2 intake? any help would be good, thanks.

http://www.edelbrock.com/sportcompact_new/mc/manifolds/mani_perf.shtml

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skunk2-pro-series-intake-manifold-HONDA-B16A-B18C-TYPER_W0QQitemZ370278489754QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_C ar_Parts_Accessories?hash=item5636515e9a

[dougie_504]

S2P make TBs and IMs and they do very well, but I know Edelbrock has a good reputation also. Just stick on a nice 3'' CAI too :D

[TODA AU]

looking at upgrading the intake manifold, the only 2 after market items i can find are the skunk 2 pro, or an edelbrock, i also want to do the TB and intake, just wandering if anyone has any combinations that work, has anyone got the skunk2 intake? any help would be good, thanks.

Unless you have increased compression, good cams, good exhaust, good CAI & a programable ECU with good tuning. You will pretty much be wasting both your time & money.

For B16A, even once heavily modified.
The throttle still need not be any larger than 65mm.
Infact a Type R (or S2000) 62mm throttle & intake manifold,
though can be made to work well, is infact too big for a std B16A.

[rage_against]

oh ok, thanks, what would you reccomend doing instead?

[TODA AU]

oh ok, thanks, what would you reccomend doing instead?
It depends on where is your car at?
That is what have you got already & what do you want from it?
& have you got a realistic budget?

[rage_against]

engine is stock really, extractor and exhaust so thats why i was thinking intake next.

budget wise well, im open minded but i want bang for buck as im not trying to get the fastest b16 in the world, just a little bit extra

[tseesinngwailo]

Wow, good to see the future plans haha, but as above, a 62mm is probably fine, I have spoken with a few people who used both Skunk and Edelbrock, they were happy with the gains, and I think they may have even stayed with the original throttle body.

I would spend the same money on a rear swaybar first, as the exhaust and extractors on your car work well with the pod, maybe change to a cold air intake instead.

Cheers
Chris

[rage_against]

haha thanks chris. i would buy a sway bar but it handles well as is to be honest. hence why i was thinking intake.

[tseesinngwailo]

Ask Toda, your car is also running the OBD1 JDM ECU, not sure if that really matters, but could be helpful for people to help answer the questions.

B16A is JDM spec with 4-2-1 headers from the Noltec racing Civic ED (before they went to 2L I think) POD filter intake, and 2.25 inch exhaust with Tanabe Medallion SS muffler.

Hopefully someone will post that has either manifold and help, or there should be a B16A thread that has dyno sheets and list of mods, that would be your best resource to check what mod gives best result for the cash.

Cheers
Chris

[TODA AU]

engine is stock really, extractor and exhaust so thats why i was thinking intake next.

budget wise well, im open minded but i want bang for buck as im not trying to get the fastest b16 in the world, just a little bit extra

You'll see more benifit from using a CAI or having one made to suit your car exactly rather than change the intake manifold & throttle.
Depending on how good or bad your car is running would determine if a programable ECU would help.
Bare in mind if the internals stay stock, a Vtec (fuel) controller will do a pretty good job & is cheaper than the ECU which would remain largley under utilised. (so to speak)

Bang for bucks...
Final drive... Flywheel... Engine capacity.... Compression....

[rpm boy]

... In that order toda?

[TODA AU]

... In that order toda?

Yes & no...
For a roadie, yes...

For a track car, no...
Once you have enough HP, the final drive need not be shorter at all.
Infact with cloase ratio gears it's actually better to go the other way & use something more like a 4.2 ~ 4.0
That said, you tend to think about a track engione more anyway so there's not really an order so to speak.
You do it, or you don't...

[rpm boy]

I would have thought compression before compacity ie shim the head/ thinner head gasket

[TODA AU]

I would have thought compression before compacity ie shim the head/ thinner head gasket

You're right in that you can do that...
Personally I don't rate it as a value for money thing to do on a B16A on it's own for a variety of reasons,
The most obvious being being any benifit realised from a head gasket change alone is actually barely measurable.
Adjustable cam pulleys should also always be included with a thinner head gasket so your cam timing can be corrected.

If the head is removed,
There are better gains to be had through porting & chamber work that increasing the compression with a thinner gasket.
NB: Don't consider using a thinner gasket on a build bottom end as you'll compromise piston to head clearance if any machining has been performed.