Drag racing legalities

[Neesmo31]

Hey all, just enquiring about what type of legal requirements are needed to run a dedicated drag car down the strip. Putting some thoughts out there as a future project with me and my old boy.

It would be a simple eg/ek civic, B18 all motor swap. Just for a bit of fun.

Things that would be on/removed from the car:

Full stripped interior (seats,dash,door cards and innards, all interior, custom alloy dash with tacho and oil only)
Removed lights/rear lights
Only bare loom nessecary
plexi windows
no power steering or any other ancillories
side pipe out of headers
race cell fuel tank 10L max
anything that will add weight

Thanks all in advance for your help - im going to talk to my old man about this seriously as we have always wanted to do a project but never had a direction about which way to go.

[Cooker]

Yonas where are you??? lol

[Neesmo31]

Lol, yeah isnt going to be anything to fast but its going to be stripped withing an inch of its life. Only the bare essentials to make it go, stop and turn.

[EG5]

The rest is ok except for these 2 :
Removed lights/rear lights : For wed night street meet at WSID you will need to have a headlights at least one of them if im not mistaken.

Side pipe out of headers :Check with your local track but at WSID there is noise limit for wed street meet and full exhaust is needed to exit behind the rear wheels

[Neesmo31]

Thanks EG5. The headlight idea will be okay - where i would race (benaraby) i beleive that a side pipe will be okay.

I would mainly try to go for low weight and good traction (would run slicks or street MT's) and try to aim for consistency rather than outright power. I think a C7 would be to expensive straight out so might have to settle for a C2. See what happens, like all good projects, these things take time.

[EG5]

Thanks EG5. The headlight idea will be okay - where i would race (benaraby) i beleive that a side pipe will be okay.

I would mainly try to go for low weight and good traction (would run slicks or street MT's) and try to aim for consistency rather than outright power. I think a C7 would be to expensive straight out so might have to settle for a C2. See what happens, like all good projects, these things take time.

Full slicks
Either M/T or M&H

[grumpy rooster]

If you do all that weight reduction you should get it down to around 750kg without driver. It could be even less. Don't forget to do something with the rear hatch. Its a heavy sucker.

Go with 22x8x13 slicks and a 4.7 or thereabouts diff ratio and you should get around the high 12's mark, even with relatively low power.

If its a dedicated drag car make sure you solid mount the engine. Don't bother with rubber/bushed engine mounts. They aren't required and it will aid traction.

Even if it is a race car you are required to have atleast one red flashing light on the back of the car. You may as well leave the tail lights operational (well atleast one).

:thumbsup: for the project. There should be more of it. :)

[Neesmo31]

Thanks rooster - sounds good! Ill buy one of those bike rider flashing lights lol.

Talked to my old boy bout it last night - he thinks that trailering it around, buying bits and peices, tyres, fuel for the tow car, will be tooooo expensive. He will be happy to do it but he hates me spending money on anything that has wheels and not a tiled roof.

Would a B18C1 has enough poke to see me into the 13's? Also will the vti-r box handle brutal launches? then there is the lsd issue.

Im still looking at doing this, but need some time and motivation from the old man. Fingers crossed this will happen. Ide love to do it. Searching for junk eg's now....

[YBOOST]

i reckon you should save a bit more and get the b18c7 with gearbox, that way it will already have LSD and 4.7 final drive. would be a much better and satisfying engine swap!
put good I/H/E and tuned ECU and you should get around 110-120kw atw. drag slicks and good weight reduction... high 12s shoud be doable!

[Cooker]

The OEM LSD is quite crap for hardcore traction wether it be circuit or drags.
Go a multi-plate LSD like a KAAZ 1.5way for good traction and strength.
Every car has its weak points, with Honda it is their gbox's.
You can get it rebuild with carbon coated synchros and get everything coated in that strength treatment (forgot what its called), that should be ok for awhile but the more agressive your gear changes and launches you probably will end up stuffing it. The ultimate is going a full dog box gear set from M factory or PPG.

[MR-VTEC]

nevermind

[Neesmo31]

ppg dogbox (i have enquired about this before) is basically $10,000. Little bit too expensive for my liking.

[honda_b_blastn]

http://www.sportcompact.net.au/raceclasses/allmotor/

that should get you started with the all
motor class rules for race meets.

[big tone]

hey man, you've seen mine run at benaraby... 13:8s and with full trim on M/T e.t's and the stock ecu... but yes few ppl question on how far your gunna go with the working the engine i went the b18c7 as it had good box and good power for a starting point.. but back then i wanted it for more street..... and its still chuggin along smoothly too..

[Neesmo31]

Hey big fella! Yeah yours was pretty quick for a street car - loved your launches.

Thanks for the info b blastin. Very helpful.

Found a ED civic for 150 here in yeppoon, wonder what motor would transplant easily into that frame?????

[Lukezen27]

I'd go a M-Factory 1.5way LSD over the OEM as Cooker touched on

I'm running one it grabs very nicely for the drags

[fatboyz39]

Hey big fella! Yeah yours was pretty quick for a street car - loved your launches.

Thanks for the info b blastin. Very helpful.

Found a ED civic for 150 here in yeppoon, wonder what motor would transplant easily into that frame?????

Any B-series would fit nicely!

[Neesmo31]

Excellent. Project EF/B could be on the way! Main goal would be to get it as light as possible.