Soft Brake Pedal

[pimpdaddy]

I have just finished swapping my rear drums to disks on my EG sedan (DC2 Front and Rear). After the swap I have an extremly soft pedal. I have bled the system again and still the pedal is soft.

My guess is the master cylinder needs replacing? Is there anything else it could be?

Can anyone recommend a good mechanic near Holland Park (i really need to get my car back on the road)?

[2MPRS]

pull out ur master cylinder and check the rubbers and springs in it usually the rubbers get worn out

[chowdaa]

If you are going to get a mechanic to work on it, get them to diagnose it maybe.
But....its easy as to do a master cylinder, especially if you just did a drum to disk conversion.
Putting new fluid in an old master cylinder the fluid has a chance of passing through the worn "cups"/seals internally.
The discs will feel different to drums naturally i find. But if the pedal sinks to floor with the engine on, master cylinder it is.
Spongy could be a number of things but most of the time pockets of air in the system. maybe enlighten us of your brake bleeding procedure?

O and BHSS will tell you and i agree" its cheaper these days just buying a new aftermarket master cylinder rather getting yours resleeved/recoed" not that im saying that is your problem though

[pimpdaddy]

The process I used to blead the brakes is below (from hondatuningmagazine.com):

Two-Person Manual Bleeding
Two-person bleeding is by far the most common method and can be performed in any home garage without specialized tools. It does, however, require another person's help. Begin by cleaning the old fluid from the reservoir and either turn a full bottle of fresh fluid upside down onto the reservoir or make sure the reservoir is constantly topped off. Now is the time you need to find that extra person. Have him sit in the vehicle and pump the brake pedal several times to build pressure and remove the brake assist reserve. Open the bleeder valve and have your assistant pump the pedal four times, holding it down on the fourth pump until you re-tighten the valve closed. Don't lift off that pedal until the valve's tightened. Make sure the vacuum line drains into a bucket and repeat the process until a steady stream of fluid flows from the valve. Perform this step at each corner, several times until new fluid is visible. The process purges air from the system and as such will spurt and hiss fluid out until completely bled. A solid stream of clean fluid indicates the job is done at that particular corner. Be sure the person pumping the pedal does so no more than halfway to the floor. If it's pushed too far, you run the risk of driving the master cylinder's secondary piston across sediments or deposits that may have collected on the piston cylinder walls. This can permanently and quickly damage piston seals and cause leaks. Place a small block of wood underneath the brake pedal to ensure this doesn't happen.

With the car on the pedal has almost no pressure and can be easily pushed to the floor.


I have a feeling that the system ran dry when I was completing the swap. Would that have caused my issues?

[vinnY]

did you change the prop valve?

[pimpdaddy]

Yeah I changed the prop Valve