DC2r Questions on Fuel Light and CF Parts

[tseesinngwailo]

Hi All,

Enjoying finally having a DC2R, but have a few questions..

1. Does the fuel light come one around the needle hitting Empty? or just under/over? I have currently done 450klms, the needle is under Empty, and no light, anyone have one that failed?

2. Carbon-Fibre bits, are they really made of CF? or is it sprayed on, mine all look fake, nothing like the actual air intake and spark plug cover I have under the bonnet. Reason being there is a spot or two where it looks like whatever the CF is has worn and its grey underneath.

3. Cany anyone show me a picture of what the standard factory headers should look like? it's a 2000 model, but when a Honda mad friend looked at it, he said it looks like I have the wrong headers on there for my year model.

Any help would be great

Cheers
Chris

[xQuizit]

i think that the cf interior on dc2r are just sprayed/printed on as they appear grey behind, could be wrong just my assumption

[Zilli]

CF bits inside are not real CF

Ive never had a problem with ym fuel light, usually comes on when it is on or very very slightly above the line

The headers... well you can tell they are there if it is stock as it has a heat shield anyway!

[sretocz]

My needle usually comes just over empty, the carbon fibre is fake and the stock headers look tiny and like zilli said usually have a head shield over them to protect your eyes from the sight. I took this photo for you of the headers

http://www.ihasaids.com/upload/data/1262614920.jpg

[RR-04-RR]

most aftermarket headers available at the moment are generally made out of steel of some sort

the stock headers on the dc2r are cast iron.. some people just remove the heat sheild

as Zilli said.. the fuel light usually comes on just on the E or slighty after the E..

[tseesinngwailo]

So NOTHING in the car is cabron fibre then? thats a bit of a ripoff then, I always wanted to change my DA to have a DC2R dash as I thought it was real!

Thanks for the info on the headers, will pull my heatshield off then take a pic to compare,
Thanks for the help guys

Chris

[54VVA]

nah nothing is real carbon fibre, just take out the coin compartment and u will see that it is painted on.
i think it is still cool to have the look but..lol

[SiReal]

Hi All,

Enjoying finally having a DC2R, but have a few questions..

1. Does the fuel light come one around the needle hitting Empty? or just under/over? I have currently done 450klms, the needle is under Empty, and no light, anyone have one that failed?



Hello my favourtie gwailo.

450Kms is pretty much it. I have never gotten over 450ks per tank. Light comes on when its sitting a bit above the last E 'bar'. you must've been driving very conservatively.

Take the cluster out and check to see if the mini globe is blown.

Worst thing is to run dry.

[RR-04-RR]

Hello my favourtie gwailo.

450Kms is pretty much it. I have never gotten over 450ks per tank. Light comes on when its sitting a bit above the last E 'bar'. you must've been driving very conservatively.

Take the cluster out and check to see if the mini globe is blown.

Worst thing is to run dry.

lol never gotten over 450?? do you do much city driving?

i can get anywhere between 500-600KMS depending on condition of driving

[SiReal]

yeah always city.. but if its highway, then its quite nice.

and i granny shift, vtec maybe once a drive...

it seems the cars i own always have shit mileage, including my 4cyl accord which gets 450, yet others get 600kms... ???

[tseesinngwailo]

Well, I guess I will take the cluster out, do I need to remove the dash? or is it just a few screws? The light bulb for the rear window demister doesnt work either too, but demister definately does.

I have been granny driving last 50klms, as I was trying to get to Tuesday for cheap fuel (wife's idea, not mine) but in general I dont push the car that hard, want to look after it and learn it before much sprited driving, besides, around this time is a bugger on the roads for Police and rage drivers etc

Now the other thing is that my speedo reads about 10klms under, checked using my GPS. So does that mean the 450klms on the trip meter would be 10% out too? Tyres are 195x50x15 on standard DC2R rims.

Cheers,
Chris

[1900-hustler]

ive never seen my fuel light come on..
i have come close to the E line a few times but nothing has lit up

i filled up just last week with 530kms and the needle was just past the E (on the right side)

either im not getting low enough of my light is farked lol

oh yeah and CF is fake =p

[altin]

cf is fake and my mileage is usually 400 - 450km. If I recall correctly when it hits the top right side of the e then it starts to light up

[SiReal]

wrong tyes yo. they should be 195/55/15. that means u wouldve done more 'cluster' k's than reality due to the wheels doing rotations faster than normal.

taking out the cluster isnt hard. take the trim off - will require a bit of force cos its clicked in tightly, then u can unscrew the cluster from the surrounding area.

[tseesinngwailo]

OK, just went and filled up with BP Ultimate, and it only took 40 L to the first click, so that means I must have had 10L left, I want to make sure I know how much I have left :)

So I suppose this means I can maybe remove the rear seat and test the wire from the sender unit, if the dash lights up then I know it's OK.

Will try that before removing the cluster I think.

Damn about the tyres, should have got 55's then, will wait for a good set of Type R rims come up, mine have been sprayed flat black, and I really want white or gunmetal, then new tyres again, this will have to wait, just spent $400 plus on the tyres, no budget for anything now, only got 50's as that was what was on the car when I got it.

Thanks for everyones help!

[Zilli]

dc2r tank is 40 litres dude, not 50...

it will be 40 plus reserve i'd say, not sure how much reserve there is though

[anfo2gig]

im pretty sure its 50L remeber reading it on the car manual and there was a thread about it.
here the thread for it http://ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=105061&highlight=tank

[Zilli]

hehehe

i was corrected in that thread too!

LOL 50 litres it is....

[dinorider]

hehehe

i was corrected in that thread too!

LOL 50 litres it is....

Every generation Integra has had a 50 litre tank.

40 litres is stupid tiny dude. LOL. Even the current generation Suzuki Swift has a 48 litre tank.

[dinorider]

So NOTHING in the car is cabron fibre then? thats a bit of a ripoff then, I always wanted to change my DA to have a DC2R dash as I thought it was real!

Chris

LOL. No. When the DC2R was new I drooled over it weekly at the Honda showroom. Drive past, go in, look look, touch touch. And that was all I could do.

The sales brochure in 2000 said "carbon-fibre look", not "carbon fibre". And we all know what "look" means.

So it technically isn't a rip off because Honda never said that it was real. t's just that over the years the mythology of the DC2R got blown a little over the top.

[Zilli]

Every generation Integra has had a 50 litre tank.

40 litres is stupid tiny dude. LOL. Even the current generation Suzuki Swift has a 48 litre tank.


hahahaha

i just cannot remember ever having filled more than 40 litres! but then i dont drive it often, as such i only ever put 20 litres in so the fuel stays fresh!

[b4dnuf]

I usually fill up when the light comes on.
mind you my light come on real early. usually at around 390 Km so i thats when i fill up
however at that stage it takes about 35L so i guess i could drive a lot more but i get real paranoid once that light comes on.

[tseesinngwailo]

Thanks for the input! I nearly died when I saw Zilli's post say my tank only has 40L haha, but now am trying to see how i can get 55 series tyres to make everything correct. I guess this would help a fraction with freeway cruising too? I am on 4000rpm at 110klm/h

Plus I dont really want my odometer spinning faster, bad for resale haha, mind you, I hope to keep this for 5 or 6 years, then get a Legend, fatter and slower like I will be then hahaha

Oh, did the Type R ever come with a rear strut brace? (not the big one across the rear chassis rails) but the actual top of the struts?

Cheers
Chris

[anfo2gig]

rear strut bar (label with type R) is optional when purchase
but the sliver bar across the rear of the car is standard

correct me if im wrong

[dinorider]

I guess this would help a fraction with freeway cruising too? I am on 4000rpm at 110klm/h


Cheers
Chris

This is exactly what the close ratio gearbox delivers. If you own a DC2R, then you learn to live with it. I reckon that even with factory correct tyres, you'll be sitting around 3800rpm at 110km/h.

Here are some of my observations with driving and owning the DC2R, and I bet that there are some things here on this list that new owners never think about until they finally buy one and drive it around for a while. Somehow, the mythological god-like status people bestow on the car always overlooks these things.

1) It is noisy as hell. Every clang, bump, thump, resonates through the cabin. Even the doors close with a sardine tin-like clang. This is because of the minimal sound proofing and thinner glass. To the uninitiated, it actually sounds like a cheap car when you go around and start tapping the panels. Over long 100km drives, the noise can wear you down.

2) Because of (1), 'hotting up' the car stereo is an exercise in futility. So you can stuff the car full of sound deadening material you say? Then you've just negated all that lightweight potential of the DC2R.

3) Early ones have no A/C, and later on A/C was an option. Yes the A/C unit is one heavy bugger that's why it was left off from the factory. Not a problem, until it's 36degs outside and you realise that the Recaros hug your whole back so much that there's little ventilation and you'll just slowly marinate yourself and the seatback in your own sweat.

4) The luggage area's resin floorboard is light, but also very brittle. Watch out.

5) The suspension damper rates are rock-hard. If you move around Sydney/Melbourne inner city alot, then you'll get jarred around all the time. Hardcore you say? Yes that's fine, but all that rough bumping and clanging over potholes eventually knocks interior trim loose, and steering geometry out of whack. Then the interior starts to creak/rattle/squeak. This car was made as a track car for smooth tarmac, not a boulevard cruiser. A RAV4 might even go in a straight line faster when the road is extremely rough and bumpy. A DC2R will just hop around from the stiff suspension. The suspension will not track extremely bumpy/lumpy surfaces well because it was not tuned to do so.

6) And yes there is NO sunroof from factory. This is a hardcore track car. Not a posermobile.

7) The close ratio gearbox means that cruising revs are high. It's not 'relaxed' by a long shot.


I love the DC2R, but some guys I speak to don't ever seem to realise what it is and when they do finally get their hands on one express disappointment at the noise/high cruising rpms/no A/C/no sunroof.

Remember, this is was built as a Track Car straight from the factory. Not for cruising the streets or picking up kids from school.

Also, the DC2R's 200bhp power output has been continually made fun of by some kids today as low, after seeing 300bhp+ cars nowadays. Well, it's a matter of perspective. If you were into cars in the 1980s, you'll remember Toyota's 4A-GE engine caused a big stir when it was in the Aus-spec MR2. 118bhp from 1.6 litres was amazing. Honda's Blacktopped D16A was similar with 118bhp from 1.6 litres. They really blew us away.

By the time the B16 and B18 VTEC engines arrived on the scene we were getting hard-ons from their power outputs.

Then the R-Spec B18C broke the 100bhp per litre mark, while retaining excellent durability and reliability. Yes, if you were into cars when the DC2R was released on the scene, you'll remember the excitement that could be felt every time somebody spoke of it or walked into a Honda showroom to see it.

Think of it this way. In the 1980s, production cars that ran 0-100km/h times of under 9.5 secs were considered very fast. In the 1990s, the mark moved to under 8 secs. Now people expect under 7 secs. The DC2R was a child of the late 1990s.

Then also remember that the term 'sports car' can be quite loose when the car marketing people get their pens into it. The ST204 Celica was marketed as a sports car, but we know that it was really just a Camry in drag. The Prelude was also classed as a sports car, but I see it more as a Grand Touring car. The Ford Probe and Cougar were also classed as sports cars, but really, I can't figure out what they wanted to be. The BMW M3: Sports car or muscle car? Then the BMW 318i: Sports sedan or wimpy kiddie BMW? And then what's the WRX? The perfect sleeper in its earliest days. Old coots and clueless women didn't realise what it was when it first appeared and called it just another sedan.

[SiReal]

I have a dealer option sunroof. I hate it, but I also love it as well.

Rear strut is optional but can be had from certain ozhonda dreaming members for $350.

Or a second hand Spoon rear strut for $150.

After I put a rear strut on, i noticed the back rigidity increase. Its firmer , and u can feel more bumps in the road. Suprised me at first as well.

Another option was the Ayumi Hamasaki sticker which I see you had on your DA9 :) Limited edition Ayu Chan.

[tseesinngwailo]

Thanks Dinorider, thats was a good observation, and a great intro for a DC2R noob like me! I am very happy with the car, and I understand the nature of the car, so I hope that it will serve me well, I don't do too many + 1 hour trips, but might drive 360klms down the South Coast, that might be a noisy trip :)

As to the "optional" Ayu stickers SiReal, I had them made for me specially, but now that the girl I know has broken up with the guy that made them, will have to find someone else, that's cool you recognised them (only person who ever did haha) I LOVE Ayu chan, along with Koda Kumi and Perfume (sigh) see? I am SO JDM lol my stereo never plays anything in English!

I do want to find a genuine rear strut brace, so maybe just get it straight from Japan, I have a good contact there who should be able to get one for a realistic price.
Cheers, Chris

[SiReal]

I did Great Ocean Road in the R, basically drove from 6am to 9pm, with stops in between, longest haul being 4 hours. The recaros are VERY comfy, no pain whatsoever.

To be honest , who ever thinks the DC2R is hardcore track/uncomfortable, etc etc really should question whether they should be driving a sports car in the first place. Why buy a sports car if u want a ride/comfort of a Camry.

I run my coils stiff, otherwise why get coils at all. Same goes for car modding. If you do it, make sure you enjoy the most out of them for their intended purpose, otherwise you're ripping yourself off.

*Ahem*

Ayu chan was my idol from high school up until late uni.. I have all her albums except the last 3 or so, when i just got over her. Did you know she became deaf in one ear a few years back?


Re genuine rear, i've seen some traders have them.. to be honest, ppl say aftermarket ones require heaps of cutting. If you can live with 1cm square of cutting, whilst saving $100, then get the spoon one. (I know I would). You can see where I cut, cos the trim doesn't have that little 'edge' bit anymore.

A photo just for you, because we used to like the same idol.

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x229/JeffSiReal/DC2R/mini-IMG_1498.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x229/JeffSiReal/DC2R/mini-IMG_1499.jpg

http://i180.photobucket.com/albums/x229/JeffSiReal/DC2R/mini-IMG_1502.jpg

[dinorider]

I do want to find a genuine rear strut brace, so maybe just get it straight from Japan, I have a good contact there who should be able to get one for a realistic price.
Cheers, Chris

How about a Mugen one?

But I believe that the OEM rear strut bar is the one that requires the least cutting of the plastic interior.

LOL I basically wrote all that info out because I remember guys previously whinging to me about the 'negative attributes' of the DC2R.

[tseesinngwailo]

Thanks Dinorider, might look into a Mugen one, but again, if my contact comes through, should be able to find a genuine one from Japan.

SiReal, is that the Spoon one you have photos for? did you then have to cut the covers too?

I will PM you back about Ayu Chan, yes, I knew about the deafness, and her last few albums have been a bit iffy, but there is still enough hits to make me wish she would come to Au for a concert..

Cheers All, thanks for helping me understand my R a bit better.

Chris

[sretocz]

SiReal, is that the Spoon one you have photos for? did you then have to cut the covers too?

you gotta cut the covers best to just leave them off.

[tseesinngwailo]

I have already asked my contact to look out for a strut brace in Japan, he will be there sourcing car parts in Feb, hopefully will get lucky.

Which year model has stainless steel headers? I am sure have seen a few halfcuts come in with them on, and they didnt look like aftermarket ones.

[SiReal]

Call me Jeff, Chris. Yes that is the Spoon one. You will need to cut the covers regardless if you use any rear strut brace. I just left them off. The main cutting to avoid would be the trim itself, which spoon are super awesome in that regard.

And i'll reply re Ayu Chan and your super duper asian knowledge later on - a bit busy at work today!

Also The 4-1 headers are mild steel, not stainless.

[tseesinngwailo]

Hey Jeff,
That's OK, maybe the few half cuts I saw all had aftermarket headers, I always thought Japan got better stuff than we did.

If I can't find a good price on the genuine brace, will get the Spoon one..

I will cut if I have to, but most likely will do the covers as well, I hate leaving stuff off.

[54VVA]

hey....
i got a genuine strut brace
so i thought i would show u some pic's on how it looks n how the covers have been cut.

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/54vva/rearbar.jpg

http://i561.photobucket.com/albums/ss60/54vva/rearpart.jpg

[marky53]

looks good....

[FallenAngel]

hey that looks heaps good... very clean install!

[tseesinngwailo]

So with those pics, is that a factory install? or did you do it? I like how the holes have some kind of seal around them.

My car is missing a few covers like that in the boot area, I have a jack but no handle too, also discovered my front lip is only held on with a few screws, need to source all the clips etc as the rear bumper also is saggy, oh, and my damn sun visor is only held in with 1 screw, it's funny now I am finding all the small things wrong with the car, but at least it runs like a dream.

Cheers
Chris

[dinorider]

need to source all the clips etc as the rear bumper also is saggy,

Cheers
Chris


http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125473

LOL I hate Hate HATE missing clips with a vengeance. You can read about my rant on missing clips in the last paragraph of this post:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2577775#post2577775

[kairi_k]

in regards to milage. yeah that sounds about right 450 x 0.9 = 405km's

I'm not sure about others but i used to fill up with Shell vpower and i would get about 320km's, now i just use unleaded and i get 420km's!! driving pretty conservative, city + highway driving.

interesting huh?

[54VVA]

So with those pics, is that a factory install? or did you do it? I like how the holes have some kind of seal around them.

i wouldn't no. i bought the car like this, but i would guess it was a factory install. in my opinion it doesn't look that hard to do. i guess it would look alright if it didn't have the seal around it too.

[kairi_k]

nice OEM rear strut. pretty rare, havent seen that many around. the cuts to the shock tower covers looks neat

[b4dnuf]

in regards to milage. yeah that sounds about right 450 x 0.9 = 405km's

I'm not sure about others but i used to fill up with Shell vpower and i would get about 320km's, now i just use unleaded and i get 420km's!! driving pretty conservative, city + highway driving.

interesting huh?

Have you noticed any differnce since using normal unleaded.
I thought Type R were only meant to use premium
isnt that bad for the engine?? using a lower rated fuel i mean.

[tseesinngwailo]

I have since found a genuine rear strut bar, but right now my budget doesnt go to $250, maybe next month will be better, it's also hard to justify as the car is running fine without it...

I find that the fuel economy is fine, considering the car has a lower drive gearbox, and last weekend went to The Entrance, was fine on the freeway, I am finding I am getting used to the noise.

[jazzadc2r]

hey tseesinngwailo
lemme know if you can find any good suppliers for those rear strut bar, im having a hard time sourcing one too, (im kinda getting over the creaking in and out of driveways lol)

Personally i love the noise it adds so much to the whole experience, drove my mums euro the other night (before my itr i though it was the sh*t!)and it just felt 'meh' lol

[Lepperfish]

Just a thing on the fuel consumption. I find shell Vpower gives me about 320km per tank of fuel. I have been using Mobil 98 fuel and it gives me 400-450km city driving with spirited driving included.

[xtan]

Just a thing on the fuel consumption. I find shell Vpower gives me about 320km per tank of fuel. I have been using Mobil 98 fuel and it gives me 400-450km city driving with spirited driving included.

LoL wdf 320km, how hard are you driving..
I'm getting 400km a tank on redlight with spirited driving. on BP98, most common best fuel around in Perth. At redlight you have approx 8L left in tank according to the Type R manual. thats easily another safe 50km.

[jazzadc2r]

I don't think I've ever got more than 420 out of one tank and that was with a highway run or two :s I normally run vortex98 or vpower. Could it need a good service/clean up or am I just wearing heavy shoes lol

[tseesinngwailo]

I am still worried about how far I can go, speedo reads about 430klm, needle is on empty, no light on dash, but when i fill up, it only takes 40L or so

[Lepperfish]

LoL wdf 320km, how hard are you driving..
I'm getting 400km a tank on redlight with spirited driving. on BP98, most common best fuel around in Perth. At redlight you have approx 8L left in tank according to the Type R manual. thats easily another safe 50km.

Not hell hard.. I reckon shell Vpower just burns to much in MY car. Mobil 98 FTW!

[Lepperfish]

I am still worried about how far I can go, speedo reads about 430klm, needle is on empty, no light on dash, but when i fill up, it only takes 40L or so

Drive it down to the light. Even when I drive down to the light it still only takes about 38L or so.