vibration while on the throttle

[ds2k]

hey guys..

i own a 2000 ap1 with 112,000klms on the clock.
just recently when on the throttle and travelling up-wards of 60klms+ the whole rear ends starts to get a a rough vibration which causes the whole car to vibrate!..it started off with a soft vibration hardly noticeable to a annoying whole body vibration.

anyone know what it could be?...

got my wheels balanced as i thought it may of been that but that wasn't the case.

thanks in advance!

[lzybum]

my guess is that the inner cv's are worn?
happened to me but at like 90k km.
went to hannys and got them to swap around the the inner cv's and now it drives fine.

[troys2000]

Check out page 5 thread I did “vibration noted at track day” I was chasing this problem for a while.
Basically I swapped the inner CV cups around also, but made minor change to the problem.
I got T1R drive shaft spacers installed and completely gone it’s the best, got them from JDM Yard.
Is your S2000 lowered? If so the inner CV cups wear further out inside the cup and not where it should wear, the drive shaft spacers push it back in were it should be, this is also a lot less labor to install them as they are they are cut in half rather then swap the cups around. So I blew my money on swapping them around when I should have just did the spacers in the first place. Some say the spacers are useless but worked the best for me.
Good luck.

[JAP-S2K]

The reason why swapping them round doesn't always work, is because someone beat you to it. But generally swapping them will work, then invest in spacers.

[mikoZ]

i just wondering how much a set of brand new CV's will cost from honda dealer

[JAP-S2K]

Just over a $1000 each, for full shaft. Inner replacement CV about $450.

[Simy]

hey this happens to me too.. but from 3500rpm up till about 5500, then i dont notice in vtec..maybe becuz im too busy concentrating on what im doing.. but it seems, the higher the speed the more it shakes.. so in like 6th at 110 on the f3, if i push it to 140.. it shakes like a vibrator..lol but more rough

[troys2000]

Thats it for sure, thats why i really noticed it at a track day, scared the crap out the instuctor he thought a wheel was lose lol. Vibrataion might get the chicks keen to go for a spin but, might take out my spacers lol

[stndrd]

could possibly be that the tailshaft is out of balance? i see it at work alot more often than people think

[STAiN MASTER]

Dont get the T1R driveshaft spacers, I had real bad vibrations coming from the rear and I found half my driveshaft bolts missing, the bolts supplied with the T1R spacers are the incorrect size if you do get spacers its worth the extra money for J's racing ones.

[troys2000]

Serious! mine have been on at least 6mths been fine so far. You could just upgrade the bolts. Were they fitted by a mechanic?

[STAiN MASTER]

Serious! mine have been on at least 6mths been fine so far. You could just upgrade the bolts. Were they fitted by a mechanic?

Yes they were fitted by a mechanic, I did end up changing the bolts to a 10mm bolt which is the same as the OEM driveshaft bolts, the bolts which come with the T1R's are 9mm and due to my coils being so stiff the vibration has caused movement and eventually making the bolts come loose.

I ended up getting 10mm 8.8guage bolt with the same thread pattern as oem and nuts which has a thread lock and some loctite.

[unluvedboi]

hey guys,

I just installed some coilovers and the t1r spacers at the same time.

Im getting a knocking noise from the rear, but I dont think its the coilovers as previous owner had them on and it was quiet.

Would it be the spacers making a knocking noise? thanks in advanced.

I have read the post before and Im using the bolts supplied from TIR.

[JAP-S2K]

Speed related knock or random knocking? Check all your bolts. If it the driveshaft bolts. Best get 10mm dia. bolts.

[unluvedboi]

when driving its alright, more like low speed and bumpy roads knocking.

but it doesnt always knock, only randomly but enough to annoy me..

thanks JAP S2K for the quick response =]

[JAP-S2K]

If it's random knock, it could be a host of things.... without seeing or hearing it, it's near impossible to diagnose. I doubt it is loose driveshaft bolts? it's constant ticking/knocking and would only get worse, so it cancels that out. I would go over all your coilover bolts again.
What coilovers you fit BTW? If there second hand and have ball joint tops? These will get noisy after a period of time?

Anyhow here are some things i know of that could cause a random knock? Otherwise take it to a good Mech or get it up on a hoist.

If your using your factory strut tops with the coilovers? Did the factory rubbers look shagged?

Check your swaybar links? Could have a broken one.

Check your exhaust rubbers? seeing as it's lower and stiffer, maybe one has popped off or is broken???

[troys2000]

I read somewhere in threads as well about a knock sound more obvious when reversing and also then moving forward again, think its to do with worn cv’s again, not sure if this could be related, but worth a few reverses to test it out. PS I feel a slight vibration creeping back, will get some new or 2nd hand drive shafts soon. Bolts still look ok as had them marked so easy to see if any movement. Good luck.

[JAP-S2K]

That clicking sound is the outer hub splines and bolt, usually noticable when your initially reversing or when taking off. A quick regrease and swapping the bolts over should solve it.

[unluvedboi]

Thanks again for the reply =)

Would it also cause a noise if the dampening on the rear is all the way stiff too?

because I was informed it is.... I will need to go home and re adjust it.. =T

[JAP-S2K]

Thanks again for the reply =)

Would it also cause a noise if the dampening on the rear is all the way stiff too?

because I was informed it is.... I will need to go home and re adjust it.. =T

I would seriously doubt it. Unless like i previously mentioned that the strut tops are worn out

[unluvedboi]

thanks for the heads up =)

will have them look at in a week or so

[Simy]

hey guyz, so i got my mechanic to try swap my cv's around, and he said they were different length so didn't fit, and couldnt do it. My car is currently at GPC and i asked them to swap it.. i dun thnk they understand me but simply they were saying you cant and have to buy new or 2nd hand.. is this possible to be done home job? and what exactly do you swap over.. like the WHOLE shaft? cheers

[jbird]

hey guyz, so i got my mechanic to try swap my cv's around, and he said they were different length so didn't fit, and couldnt do it. My car is currently at GPC and i asked them to swap it.. i dun thnk they understand me but simply they were saying you cant and have to buy new or 2nd hand.. is this possible to be done home job? and what exactly do you swap over.. like the WHOLE shaft? cheers

They didn't understand you. They probably tried to swap the whole shaft around, the shafts are unequal lengths.

Show them this:

http://forums.s2kca.com/showthread.php?t=21680

BOOM. Me out!

[troys2000]

yea its the cups that you swap around. I you check the 1st page of this I posted another thread vibration noted at track day. I swaped them around but not much different, TR1 spacers worked the best for me.

[STAiN MASTER]

DO NOT GET T1R spacers they will come loose over time! the nut is the incorrect size and will come loose due to the vibration..

compare the oem bolt which is 10mm with the T1R bolt 9mm.

[Si1enzio]

DO NOT GET T1R spacers they will come loose over time! the nut is the incorrect size and will come loose due to the vibration..

compare the oem bolt which is 10mm with the T1R bolt 9mm.

Or if you get T1R, just make sure you buy correct bolts 10mm.

[STAiN MASTER]

Or if you get T1R, just make sure you buy correct bolts 10mm.

That will end up costing you just as much as the J's racing ones, J's use 10mm bolts.

[Simy]

lol cheers.. i'll prolly do the swap first.. how long did it take you guys? i was thinking to head over to a mates and do it 2day.. hope his got the right tools..

[jbird]

lol cheers.. i'll prolly do the swap first.. how long did it take you guys? i was thinking to head over to a mates and do it 2day.. hope his got the right tools..

You need grease and split pins as well.

[zhong]

Have you fixed this problem yet?

[STAiN MASTER]

Just an idea anyone out there after the correct size bolts, J's actually sell the just the bolts without spacer.

[zhong]

I recently installed my spacers, and my vibrations were deleted (day and night difference as alot of US enthusiasts would say). Mind due, I also re-greased my shifter and smoothed out my clutch slave release rod and greased it. I greased it more. All gone, grease is lovely. And FYI, you do not need to drop your whole driveshaft in order to install the full ring type spacers, only popping the 1 ball-joint is sufficient for you to slide em in and bolt them tight.

So it's all smooth for me at the moment! :D

Peace.

[blusir2]

I was wondering will installing the spacers change the wheel offset?? Coz if u add the spacer wont the wheel hub move out by the thickness of the spacer.. i ask this coz my wheels are really close to the guards already and if they are pushed out anymore it will rub the guards.. cheers guys

[zhong]

^^^
It shouldn't, because the spacers just relieves a bit of the strain on the shafts' new angle (more) (in which it accomodates to a specific angle when you lower it) without affecting its camber. The spider bearings inside the actual CV joint gets moved further away from the diff once lowered, which causes pitting because of the strain of the diff etc etc so all the spacer does is, try to correct it by moving it back closer to where it should be originally, dependant on your drop. Correct me if my understanding is wrong.

[blusir2]

yeh thats wat I thought also because the spider bearings actually are not locked into place, they just sit their and when u lower the car the drive shafts get pulled out a bit due to the car squatting which increases negative camber and therefore pulls the driveshaft out from the cv cup.. cheers dude.. just wanted to re-inforce my view.. 2 wrongs must make a right...hahaha

so "Zhong" how bad was ur vibration before and after the spacers... I guess the thicker the spacers the more the cv joint moves back into the cup.. I havent taken off the cups to see if it is pitted but the car has been lowered for a while and I dun think the Tein RA's i got helped much either...??? doh!!!

[zhong]

Yep, they are CV joints because they can still transfer as much energy as they can even if it's moved to a different angle! Ie. Bumps etc... :D

Just drive it till it breaks, and buy a GENERIC ONE from the US. :angel:

[greek_rambos2k]

im having the same problem. i took it to honda and they test drove and raised car and checked all suspension components then said im paranoid. i only noticed it when i put my new rims on. moved to 17x8 and 17x9 and there was vibration. so i put the stockies back on and it kept doing it. i got all the wheels re balanced and it still did it. i asked if my new wheels could have damaged it in any way and they said no. only damage it can cause is rubbing in which it wasnt. ideas?

[zhong]

Maybe you are experiencing something like this.

http://www.wheel-junction.com.au/upload/RHS.jpg

Peace.

[98octane+]

Damn.. i've got the same problem, started about a week ago. Car's got a 140k on the clock. What would be the best option? Spacer or swapping the cup? Thanks in advance.

[zhong]

Swapping the cup is a DIY procedure. But if you want an even easier fix (temp) buy yourself a set of "driveshaft spacers" - they're all over ebay.

[aozora]

Swapping the cup is a DIY procedure. But if you want an even easier fix (temp) buy yourself a set of "driveshaft spacers" - they're all over ebay.

Or buy mine... See sig :p (Cheap plug)

[98octane+]

Wow thanks for the prompt response. I've got a few basic tools and looking at doing the DIY over Christmas. You guys reckon it's be worth while getting the spacer as well? my S2k hasn't been lowered at all, is it a common problem? just wear and tear? Cheers

[aozora]

The cup swap just moves the wear point, the same as what spacers will do but slightly more labour intensive compared to the spacer install (2 piece spacers are the easiest where 1 piece spacers will be almost the same effort as swapping the cups...). I would do one or the other. And ALL fixes are temporary as all joints will wear regardless (unless you redesign the whole rear drivetrain :p).

Here's some reading... Pics explain it better!

http://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/693173-driveshaft-spacer-necessary-for-lowered-car/

[98octane+]

Thanks man, Cup swap it is! Cheers

[98octane+]

any experts in melboure that has carried out the cup swap before? i'm 2 hrs into it.. manage to pop the ball joint and could not remove the wheel nut... not sure if i can go all the way.. any onsite help will be rewarded... thanks guys

[98octane+]

alright i've given up, manage to put the ball joint back inplace using the jack, main problenm is removing the wheel nut ( axel nut) the damn #%$#er just don't move....

[98octane+]

Hey aozora, you still have the spacer forsale?

[aozora]

Sorry man - sold, pending payment which apparently should be in there tomorrow morning. I'll let you know if it falls through.

Regarding the axle nut, literally soak it in WD40 and get a huge torque wrench on it or a rattle gun and just let the gun bash away at it until it comes loose... Once you're done, you'll also need to torque the axle nuts up properly to 220 ft/lb I think? And that needs a torque wrench that goes up to that spec. :( If you don't torque them up properly, you'll get a knocking noise at low speeds which can develop into worn wheel bearings which are a b!tch to replace on the rear.

[98octane+]

ok thanks man let me know if it falls through. i think i'm giving up the cup swap for now, damn pain with the axel nut, my wrench is 900mm long still not doing the job.. cheers. spacers seem more straight forward.

[blusir2]

just put in a set of HardRace drive shaft spacers on the weekend... the car drives sooooo nice now.. very smooth and no vibration at all.. 118000kms on the car... found a couple of easy ways of doing it... job takes only 30 mins including jacking up the car.. well worth it...

[AusS2000]

You don't need to remove the axle nut to swap cups. You don't even need to disassemble the suspension.