H23a engine in my eg?

[slow_poke]

Hey guys i currently have a eg civic and i have a 92 si prelude that is suppose to be stripped and sold, Anyways long story short just thinking maybe i can do something with the engine like maybe hybrid it with a vtec h22a if it is worth it.
I'm just thinking because i need to know what i'm doing or i just might get the b18.

Cheers slow_poke!

[dougie_504]

I don't know much about H-series hybrids but I've never heard of anybody using a H22A head on a H23A bottom, if that's what you mean?

The H22A would be better than the H23A IMO. It's DOHC VTEC and has great stock power. H23A wouldn't be worth the trouble/expense.

Just remember that if you go for a H22A/H23A you'll have quite a heavy front-end as the H-series is fairly heavy, thus cornering (especially in the wet) will suffer. You can probably rectify this (don't take my word, I don't know for sure) by addressing suspension and weight distribution.

The B18C is more expensive than the H22A but it's much lighter and probably has more available support in terms of after market parts, maintenance and interchangeable parts.


Since you're in VIC you'll also need an engineering certificate for either swap, costing around $600-1000.


Let us know if you need more info.

[slow_poke]

I don't know much about H-series hybrids but I've never heard of anybody using a H22A head on a H23A bottom, if that's what you mean?

The H22A would be better than the H23A IMO. It's DOHC VTEC and has great stock power. H23A wouldn't be worth the trouble/expense.

Just remember that if you go for a H22A/H23A you'll have quite a heavy front-end as the H-series is fairly heavy, thus cornering (especially in the wet) will suffer. You can probably rectify this (don't take my word, I don't know for sure) by addressing suspension and weight distribution.

The B18C is more expensive than the H22A but it's much lighter and probably has more available support in terms of after market parts, maintenance and interchangeable parts.


Since you're in VIC you'll also need an engineering certificate for either swap, costing around $600-1000.


Let us know if you need more info.

Thanks mate i've been looking on the net haven't seen anything yet was just thinking bout hybrid just like a b20/b16 goes pretty good. If i don't see any point of putting the h23 then most likely just sell it. If possible i would like to know more info.

Cheers

[dougie_504]

What is your budget?

What is the goal of your car? Track racing? Drag racing? Street performance?

[slow_poke]

What is your budget?

What is the goal of your car? Track racing? Drag racing? Street performance?

well the budget was gonna be the b18 cash+mods which was going to add up to roughly 8-10k LOL i would like street performance/circuit but for the b18 i was hoping to rip out low 13's also, by end of year.

[dougie_504]

That's plenty of cash for a swap, but I don't think it's enough for an internally built engine - maybe just bolt-ons after the swap.

You can go B18CR for like $6500 (engine) + $1000 (other parts) + $1000 +/- (labour) + $800 +/- (certificate)
Probably around the $8500-9000 mark I guess.
That's a 152kw engine or something?

Alternatively (which I suggest) you could get a B16A head, or full engine if necessary for about $2000 +/- and buy a B20 bottom end for $500 +/-
With the appropriate costs like cleaning, maybe rebuilding, other parts (mounts etc.), labour, certificates and stuff you might get it done for $7500+
Won't have as much top end power as a heavily worked B18CR but the low-end torque is considered a good trade-off, especially for track work. Add some bolt-ons and you'll probably be making like 115-120kw ATW but it'll throw you back in your seat all the way pretty much.

[slow_poke]

That's plenty of cash for a swap, but I don't think it's enough for an internally built engine - maybe just bolt-ons after the swap.

You can go B18CR for like $6500 (engine) + $1000 (other parts) + $1000 +/- (labour) + $800 +/- (certificate)
Probably around the $8500-9000 mark I guess.
That's a 152kw engine or something?

Alternatively (which I suggest) you could get a B16A head, or full engine if necessary for about $2000 +/- and buy a B20 bottom end for $500 +/-
With the appropriate costs like cleaning, maybe rebuilding, other parts (mounts etc.), labour, certificates and stuff you might get it done for $7500+
Won't have as much top end power as a heavily worked B18CR but the low-end torque is considered a good trade-off, especially for track work. Add some bolt-ons and you'll probably be making like 115-120kw ATW but it'll throw you back in your seat all the way pretty much.

Minus all the labour because they won't b much at all or even nothing lol was thinking bout the b20/16 i love torque more than speed so seems like the b20/16 would b the best option just i don't have mates which would do the hybrid fit. how much do you reckon just the b20/16 will cost me? also i had a huge mod list for my b18 but i could probably transfer them to the b20/16. .

cheers thanks for the advice

[MWAKU]

Just remember that if you go for a H22A/H23A you'll have quite a heavy front-end as the H-series is fairly heavy, thus cornering (especially in the wet) will suffer. You can probably rectify this (don't take my word, I don't know for sure) by addressing suspension and weight distribution.


the h22 is only like 15kgs heavier then a b-series. the reason why its a bigger hassle is being the engine doesn't sit straight in the engine bay, its on a slight angle, which gives it more strain on the suspension and so forth. and i can't remember what was the reason why it can't sit straight in a EG but yeh,

a lot of people always say that its heavier this that bla bla but its only slightly heavier, not such a big deal.

REFER: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?p=2489227#post2489227



according to this--> http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=684550
h22 is 35 pounds heavier than b series, which is around 15kg. someone with a h series could save that weight by using a cf bonnet.
as for throwing off steering balance, i think its just internet bs.



he said "probably" which basically means its information passed onto him or his own assumptions. people who actually have h22a under the hood will be able to give real experience. hopefully ill be able to tell you one day ;).
I think the problem with straight h22a is the position of the engine, low ground clearance and axle angles, you can tell from engine bay pics.
the h2b which supposedly allows for straight oem position axles require spacing the bonnet, whereas straight h22a the bonnet closes without problems, even allows for a strut brace.
overall i think h22a/b20 vtec give the k series a run for their money.

[dougie_504]

Interesting point, thanks for that, but I do distinctly remember a bloke who'd put one in his EG and said that he was having trouble with cornering.

I'll try to find the link.


@OP: See here (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=125942) RE: B20VTEC setups.

[dougie_504]

AFTER THE SWAP:

the difference is amazing the torque is great,vtec kicks in soo hard in such a light car.With my suspension mods i havent noticed one bit of difference in handling in the dry but in the wet its a bit of a ice rink on the roads.quarter mile times.. well i only have done 2 runs in mine soo far... best was 14.2 at 101mile on shitty 175/65r14 tyres.thats only with 2.5inch exhuast,hi flow cat,and intake..full interior and subs,so theres heaps of room for improvement..and ALOT more room for mods..

All up with all the parts needed/replaced,engine,shipping costs,full exhaust,mod plated..It cost me $5545 on the road.


So yeah, it was just "in the wet" but like he said, he had modified sussy. Maybe it could be due to the positioning of the engine that you mentioned.

Link is here (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13733&highlight=H22A+conversion)