[CL9] Wheel hub & window actuator replacement

[exISeuro]

My 150,000km 2004 Euro is getting to stage where many things require replacement/repair.

I havent been able to drive my car since early December :o

Specifically you 2003 & 2004 owners, has anyone had experience in ;

a) wheel hub replacement?
At speeds above 30km/h i can hear grinding type noise from the rear drivers side wheel. At 70km/h + major vibration is felt.

(research suggests that my problem is associated to a terminal cause such as wheel hub or axle, not wheel balance/alignment issues)

b) driver and passenger side door locking actuators.
I've been manually locking and unlocking the car for about 2 years now :thumbdwn:

[aaronng]

You mean door lock actuators?

Workshops should be able to do both replacements for you. Make sure you use a reputable one.

I plan to replace my driver's door lock actuator on my own when it fails. It is currently sticky but still working.

[exISeuro]

Yes thanks for the correction Aaron.

Regarding the wheel hub;

i took the car to Hannys (3km away to my house) and they diagnosed the problem as tyre noise (which it isnt) and blamed it as a result of the car being lowered.

So now i need to limp it over to Top one which is unfortunatley, because the car isnt really drivable.

[biee2]

would manuallli locking and unlocking the car reduce the wear on the actuators?

[Tarquin]

Yes thanks for the correction Aaron.

Regarding the wheel hub;

i took the car to Hannys (3km away to my house) and they diagnosed the problem as tyre noise (which it isnt) and blamed it as a result of the car being lowered.

So now i need to limp it over to Top one which is unfortunatley, because the car isnt really drivable.

Just had my rear left hub assembly done by a Honda specialst near home, supplied and fitted genuine as thers no after market support for them for $370. apparently the left go way before the right in the early cl9's

[jamesfrosty]

I had this problem too... Thought I'd save $100 and do it myself. It is 99% chance door lock actuator.

You need moderate hand skills, basic tools and allow for 2hrs (should only take 1 though)

The diagrams in this link were invaluable when pulling off the trim:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51751&highlight=actuator

What to do:
- Remove door trim (with window down)
- Wind window up
- Remove the 2 screws at the back of the door and other screws, disconnect rods
- Withdraw complete door lock assembly
- Disassemble enough to remove and replace actuator (not too hard because the plastic is flexible and is mostly held with clips)
- Reinstall door lock assembly, lower window, reinstall door trim.
- Laugh at Honda and buy yourself a couple of cases of beer with the money you saved

Things to watch out for:
- Have a few small sized flat blade screwdrivers so you dont use the wrong size one and crack something
- Wrap electrical tape around your flat blade screwdrivers
- Take care removing the silver cover - do it in the order shown in the diagram.
- I COULD NOT remove the passenger side window switch... I chipped it and cracked it but still could not get it out. I recommend removing the door trim with window switch connected and disconnect plug from the back.
- The screws at the back of the door (that retain the door lock assembly) were very tight - don't strip them with the wrong size screwdriver. I got a #3 apex bit (from a drill) and put it it a 1/4" socket and used a ratchet to remove them.

[exISeuro]

Thanks for the replies guys.


Just had my rear left hub assembly done by a Honda specialst near home, supplied and fitted genuine as thers no after market support for them for $370. apparently the left go way before the right in the early cl9's

Tarquin: so you're saying its $370 for genuine Honda rear hub assembly including labour ? doesnt sound so bad.

I was going to ask where your mechanic is until i realised you live in Newcastle.

Out of curiosity, is your car lowered ?

[Euro1011]

I had this problem too... Thought I'd save $100 and do it myself. It is 99% chance door lock actuator.

You need moderate hand skills, basic tools and allow for 2hrs (should only take 1 though)

The diagrams in this link were invaluable when pulling off the trim:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=51751&highlight=actuator

What to do:
- Remove door trim (with window down)
- Wind window up
- Remove the 2 screws at the back of the door and other screws, disconnect rods
- Withdraw complete door lock assembly
- Disassemble enough to remove and replace actuator (not too hard because the plastic is flexible and is mostly held with clips)
- Reinstall door lock assembly, lower window, reinstall door trim.
- Laugh at Honda and buy yourself a couple of cases of beer with the money you saved

Things to watch out for:
- Have a few small sized flat blade screwdrivers so you dont use the wrong size one and crack something
- Wrap electrical tape around your flat blade screwdrivers
- Take care removing the silver cover - do it in the order shown in the diagram.
- I COULD NOT remove the passenger side window switch... I chipped it and cracked it but still could not get it out. I recommend removing the door trim with window switch connected and disconnect plug from the back.
- The screws at the back of the door (that retain the door lock assembly) were very tight - don't strip them with the wrong size screwdriver. I got a #3 apex bit (from a drill) and put it it a 1/4" socket and used a ratchet to remove them.

Managed to get the panel off and other parts except for the actuator.
Which screws on the back of the door should be taken off? From what i've seen are the three silver screws just to the side of the door. If so, they are a hard to take off.
Also is the actuator clipped onto that door look assembly?

[grifty]

would manuallli locking and unlocking the car reduce the wear on the actuators?

it would but then wats the use of having keyless central locking if your not going to use it?

[jamesfrosty]

Managed to get the panel off and other parts except for the actuator.
Which screws on the back of the door should be taken off? From what i've seen are the three silver screws just to the side of the door. If so, they are a hard to take off.
Also is the actuator clipped onto that door look assembly?

Yeah the easiest way is to get an 'apex' bit - a phillips head bit that fits into a cordless drill (#2 or #3)
This fits into a 1/4" (i think, might be 5/16") socket.
Attach the socket to a ratchet, and turn the ratchet. This provides much more turning force than a screwdriver. This worked fine for me.
If it slips, get some grinding paste from the hardware - grit that you put into a screw head that stops the bit from slipping/skipping over the cutouts in the screwhead.
After that, remove the entire door lock assembly, and the actuator is screwed/clipped to that assembly.

[Euro1011]

Ok will try to get the assembly off. Thanks James for the info.

[Tarquin]

Thanks for the replies guys.



Tarquin: so you're saying its $370 for genuine Honda rear hub assembly including labour ? doesnt sound so bad.

I was going to ask where your mechanic is until i realised you live in Newcastle.

Out of curiosity, is your car lowered ?

Yep, thats all it cost me, i was happy with it.

Yes it is lowered but not a great deal, probably about a 30mm drop from standard height. I've had alot of places tryin to pin lil problems on the car being lowered though.

[exISeuro]

Update on my situation: Car is repaired !!!

Noise 0-60km/h = worn bearing within hub assembly.
New OEM rear wheel hub assembly = $330 from Honda

Vibration/drag 70-90km/h = Warped front rotors.
New RDA slotted rotors + pads = problem solved.

Good to be driving a driveable car again :D
Thanks to BEL garage & JDMyard.

[Crapdaz]

Just to bring up this topic,

Only recently have i noticed the car has started squealing around 20-30kmh but not always.
It's always on and off and seems like it from the right side of the car.
It also normally occurs when slowing down, speeding up tends to go away.

Do you reckon it's the wheel bearing or just the brake cover in contact with the rotor? Will have a look in the next few days.

Thanks,
Daz

[Crapdaz]

Anyone have experience where you turn full lock (right) at low speeds and there will be a speed dependent sound (schh schh scchh) coming from the front passenger wheel?

Would that be the front wheel bearing?
and what's the best way to check on our CL9's?

Thank you.
Daz

[seanneko]

Vibration/drag 70-90km/h = Warped front rotors.
New RDA slotted rotors + pads = problem solved.

How much did this cost? My front discs are warped fairly badly (don't think machining will help).

[opilot87]

Machining will always help/fix the problem. But the disk may become to thin and might not be possible anymore. It is also more likely to happen again when the disk gets thinner. I just got quoted either $300 or $400 I think to machine the front disks and machine the pads. (it depended on if they had to take the disks of the car?). But anyway I bought some brand new better quality DBA slotted rotors from Supercheap for just over $300, and some good quality Bendix CT brake bads for $90, and installed them myself. Very strong and smooth brakes now, though I only just bought the car so don't know what it was like before!

Ollie