Braking Problem (ABS)

[R32GTR]

Hey guys. Ok so my ABS light is on.. Always. It's a 94' Del Sol, Braking is quite stiff, and when pushed real hard the car pulls slightly to the left (as if the left tyre is getting more braking pressure), but that is when i push real hard and im going quite quick, otherwise any speed below 60kmph it's just completely stiff with slow braking.

I've done a search for ABS problems but havn't really found anything relevant to my situation, although i can give info re. questions that are normally asked in regards to mods. It's got 18"s, CF Intake, HID's (Which were installed last night, and the ABS problem was already present). New tyres were put on the car about 2 weeks ago, with a full wheel alignment. The mechanic advised me that there was plenty of meat left on the pads, although i needed to get the CV boot repaired, which he advised wasn't a massive issue. I completely forgot to bring up the braking issue so i thought i'd ask some pro's on OzHonda :D

I was zoning out in my car the other night, the car was on - just idling - and i pushed the brake - Quite hard, and i did hear what sounded like ABS going off (Like shuttering).

Just wondering if there is anything i can do myself to fix the problem? Would bleeding affect the abs light?

Thanks in advance.

[JasonGilholme]

the hard pedal and limited braking abilities sounds like your brake booster or the vacuum line to it is dead.

The pulling to the left is probably the brakes needing to be bled, and the ABS light on will stay on until the system is reset if the ABS has been activated.

[R32GTR]

Is this something that is best left to a mechanic to fix? or is there something that i can can occupy my time with after work and do it myself?

It's not to say that the car is undrivable, but it's definately uncomfortable to brake, even if i do get used to it, it's still not ideal braking.

[JasonGilholme]

I would be able to fix them all myself, but i've pulled apart my sol completely twice before.

The hardest thing is the booster, as you'll need to pull the pedal assembly apart a bit, swap the master cylinder over etc. Probably best left to a mech for that if you have minimal experience.

The brakes will need to be bled after that job anyway.

The ABS reset is just a fuse pull thing. Very easy to do yourself. Just search 'Reset ABS' and you should find what you need to know. If you get the light again, it means there is something else wrong. (low fluid, low pads or something of that nature).

[vinnY]

first things first, pull the sensors and clean them

fuse thing usually doesn't work with abs, there's a sequence you need to follow to reset the abs ecu

[R32GTR]

Thanks for the help, any ideas in regards to costs involved if it was the master cylinder to get a mech to do it?

[vinnY]

being the pain in the arse job to do, they'd probably want $200odd plus parts

[R32GTR]

Bahhhhhhhhhh ><

[vinnY]

and i were you, i'd do it asap because brakes are not to be toyed with

[JasonGilholme]

and i were you, i'd do it asap because brakes are not to be toyed with

x2.

The money to fix the brakes is cheaper then the money to buy a new car.

[twing]

Find out the ABS error code by doing this diagnostic:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67113

[JasonGilholme]

thats to search for ECU Codes. Not ABS Codes.

[twing]

It does displays ABS error as well.
When I had my ABS light on, I performed the diagnostic. Managed to get the light away, luckily it was just a bad grounding on abs motor.

[JasonGilholme]

Yeah, but the codes in that DIY are for ECU codes, not ABS.


this is what is needed:

11 Open circuit in right hand front wheel speed sensor
12 Short circuit in right hand front wheel speed sensor
13 Open circuit in left hand front wheel speed sensor
14 Short circuit in left hand front wheel speed sensor
15 Open circuit right hand rear wheel speed sensor
16 Short circuit right hand rear wheel speed sensor
17 Open circuit left hand rear wheel speed sensor
18 Short circuit left hand rear wheel speed sensor
21 Damage to rotor teeth
31 Right hand front inlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
32 Right hand front outlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
33 Left hand front inlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
34 Left hand front outlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
35 Right hand rear inlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
36 Right hand rear outlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
37 Left hand rear inlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
38 Left hand rear outlet, hydraulic modulator solenoid valve
51 The pump motor is locked
52 The pump motor is inoperative
53 The pump motor is constantly on
54 Inoperative relay
61 Low supply voltage
81 The combination control module or relay

[twing]

That's the one. :thumbsup:
Those ecu codes apparently triggered my ABS light on.

[JasonGilholme]

yeah, i reckon if you had a bad ground from your pump you'd probably get a bunch of errors. lol