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wynode
05-12-2004, 05:27 PM
Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


OK, so this kills two birds with one stone. THe first part of taking the tranny out is the same procedure for changing a clutch.


Aim: Remove transmission to change Input Shaft Bearing (ISB) and any other bearings.

Required:

(Sorry if I haven't mentioned tool/bolt/socket sizes as I don't remember them exactly!)

Tools
- A good set of sockets from 9mm upto 32mm
- 3/8 or 1/2inch (recomended) drive ratchets
- Socket extensions to get into those hard to reach places
- 1/2inch Breaker bar
- Hex key for interlock guide bolt
- Flat and phillips head scredrivers
- Torque wrench
- Trolley jack
- Axel stands

Other
- Around 2.5 to 3L of Manual Tranmission Fluid (MTF)
- High temp CV joint grease
- Hondabond or equivalent sealant to seal up the transmission housing
- Input Shaft Bearing (duh!)
- Rubber oil seal under the ISB
- Any other bearings that might need to be changed (check them now cause you don't wanna do this again!)

Ok so lets do it!

Steps:

1. First we need to jack up the car and support it with axle stands. Then take both rims off and disconnect the negative terminal from the battery.

2. Next we need to drain the gearbox oil. With the car properly supported by jack stands, look through the driver side wheel arch and undo the oil drain bolt till all the oil in the gearbox is empty.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4950.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4955.jpg

3. Next, undo the 32mm hub nut that holds the driveshaft to the wheel hub. Use a flat head screwdriver to lift up the tab of the hub nut that keeps it from spining. Once this is done, unscrew the 32mm hub nut. You might need an air tool for this, but otherwise a breaker bar for sure. There's a few ways to remove this without an air tool, reply back and I'll tell you how.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4957.jpg

4. We now need to pop the lower ball joint out. Many people have trouble with this. Most people tend to hammer the crap out of the lower control arm (LCA) to pop the joint but there is an easier way. Firstly, jack the entire hub assembly up by placing the jack under the LCA. Then, take out the cotter pin going through the castle nut at the bottom of the ball joint. Undo the castle nut but don't take it off, leave it a few turns on the ball joint bolt. Jack the hub enough so you can wedge the end of your breaker bar (or ratchet/anything solid) between the lower control arm and ball joint holder like so:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4963.jpg

Make sure its sitting securely. Then lower you jack and the joint should pop. If it doesn't, just use your foot and give the wheel hub a whack straight down. I took a little video of it and it sounded like this when the joint popped. Ball Joint Vid (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/19831balljoint.avi)

The popped ball joint should look like this:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4965.jpg

5. Once the ball joint is popped, push the tip of the axle through the centre of the hub (use an extension and a hammer to hit it through if its hard to just push it) and let the drive shaft sit out like so:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4967.jpg

6. Next we need to seperate the driver side driveshaft from the transmission housing. When doing this, NEVER just pull on the shaft as you will pop the joints! To get it loose, you will have to wedge a screwdriver between the transmission casing and the inboard joint to pry it apart from the casing. Hold the driveshaft like so when prying it/pulling it out:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4966.jpg

7. The passenger side driveshaft and intermediate shaft are a bit easier. After you have popped the passenger side lower ball joint and seperated the axle from the hub, simply undo the 3 bolts near the oil filter that hold the intermediate shaft in place. Once these are undone, you can just slide the passenger side driveshaft and intermediate shaft out together as a single piece. These are the 3 bolts holding the intermediate shaft:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4973.jpg

8. While we are under the car, we might as well take out the 2 bolts that connect the rear tortion mount to the tranny. There is also another bolt that connects the engine to the tranny. I didn't get a chance to take a pic of it, but i've marked where it is in the pic.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4970.jpg

9. While we are still under the car, there are another 3-4 bolts that hold the flywheel cover in place (Sorry I haven't got a pic, but they are pretty obvious!)

10. Next we need to undo the shift linkage(s). There is only one rod for changing gears, the other one is a stabiliser. The stabiliser comes off easy by simply undoing the bolt. Undo it and move it out of the way.
The next bit is a bitch to do. You basically have to whack the spring clip out (use a hole punch or the like, i used a bolt that I had lying around) so you can seperate the spring clip. It requires a heck of a lot of pounding to get out!!! I actually couldnt be bothered pounding it under the car, so I undid the linkage at the base of the shifter and lowered the tranny with the linkage still attached to the tranny.

(Below: Shift linkage on the left, stabiliser linkage on the right)

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4977.jpg

11. Once this is done, get out from under the car and move towards the top. Firstly you need to unplug the following connectors from the top of the transmission housing. (It is best that you take out your airbox and intake arm to get easy access.)

A. Vehicle speed sensor (VSS)*
B. Backup light switch*
C. O2 sensor connector
D. The two connectors going to the back of the starter
*You do not have to take these sensors out yet, just unplug their connectors

12. Next we take out the starter motor. There are two bolts that hold the starter motor in place on either side of the starter. Take them out, and then the starter motor should just slide out.

13. Now lets take out the clutch slave cylinder. Firstly remove the dust cover that protects the slave cylinder piston and the release fork. Then undo the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder hardline in place. Next undo the 2 bolts that hold the slave cylinder in place and then you can move the slave cylinder out of the way. We just tied the slave cylinder to the radiator fan bracket with some old wire! Be very careful that you do not bend the clutch hard line and also make sure you don't operate the clutch once this is done!

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4978.jpg

14. Now lets proceed to removing the tranny from the engine. We need to support the engine first, so place a piece of wood under the sump, and use a jack to support the engine under the sump (the wood prevents the sump getting damaged by the jack). You can use your trolley jack or even the stock honda jack. Jack it up till the engine/tranny rise up a little so you know for sure the jack(s) are taking the weight. I was paranoid so I used a few jacks I had he he he. Looks a bit like something from a construction site eh?

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4984.jpg

15. With the engine/tranny properly supported, lets get to seperating the tranny from the engine. Take out the 5 bolts that hold the tranny to the engine. I've numbered them the best I can in the pics (note there is one bolt under where the slave cylinder sits #1.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5174.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5175.jpg

16. Next are the transmission mounts. THere are two on the driver side. The top mount and the front mount. Around now is a good time to put another jack under the transmission to help support it while you take it out. The tranny is not all that heavy, but its weight distribution makes it hard to handle.
Take out the earthing cable that connects from the car body to the transmission first (see pic below), then undo the 3 bolts that hold the top mount to the transmission.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5176.jpg

17. The undo the 3 bolts that hold the front tranny mount to the tranny.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5178.jpg

18. To remove the front mount completely, there are two bolts that go into the body (sorry no pic, but once you pop your head under the car and move away the splash guard you'll see it!)

Now all the bolts are out and the tranny is ready to be seperated

19. Lean over the driver side front quarter panel and (with a jack positioned with some wood on it, under the tranny) shake the tranny from side to side to get apart from the engine. We found the best way was to use a hammer and hit against the opening for the release fork a few times, then do the same on the opposite end, hiting the tranny against the diff casing. Once it is loose, make sure you support it properly as you slide the tranny out. Putting excessive weight on the input shaft splines could damage not only the splines and the input shaft, but also your clutch!

20. As I said before, I didn't seperate the shift linkage from the tranny, so once the tranny was out, it looked like this:

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4982.jpg

21. If you are going to do any work on the tranny, I recommend you tape up the input shaft splines to protect it. I used some electrical tape on it.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_4995.jpg

Now that the tranny is out, lets get started on opening it up and changing the ISB!

wynode
05-12-2004, 05:28 PM
Changing the ISB

22. With the input shaft taped up, place the tranny with the input shaft facing downwards, and make sure you place it on two blocks of wood in order to prevent damaging the input shaft.

23. Undo the 32mm sealing bolt using a 3/8inch drive.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5003.jpg

24. Unscrew and remove the backup light switch and then loosen the transmission housing attaching bolts in a criss cross pattern and remove them.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5004.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5005.jpg


25. Use a wedge or a hammer to seperate the transmission housing from the clutch housing (note you will not be able to remove the transmission housing completely till you get the snap ring out in the next step).

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5009.jpg

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5010.jpg

26. Expand the snap ring on the countershaft bearing using either some snap ring pliers or conventional pliers. NOTE: that this part is very tricky and can be quite time consuming!! You have to yank the case up and shimmy it while expanding the snap ring, in order to get it out of the groove and off the bearing!

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5007.jpg

27. Once you get the snap ring out, the tranny housing case should lift off! The reason you have to move it around is also because the mainshaft bearing sits in the transmission housing.

28. To get to the ISB, we need to lift out the shift fork assemblies and the gearsets. First undo the reverse shift holder by taking the two bolts holding it down. Then lift the reverse idler shaft straight up and take out the reverse idler gear.

Reverse shift holder:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5014.jpg

Reverse idler shaft and gear seen at the bottom of the pic:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5012.jpg

29. Then undo the linterlock guide bolt (hex key required) found on the clutch housing side. Then undo the Shift Arm B Attaching bolt and washer on top of the interlock.

Interlock guide bolt removed:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5017.jpg

Shift Arm B attaching bolt and washer:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5011.jpg

30. You can now pull the shift fork assemblies and gearsets straight out of the tranny. Just grab the mainshaft and countershaft assemblies cleanly by the gears (not the shycho hub/color) and lift straight up. A bit of wiggling may be required.

31. The differential can be removed by lifting it straight out of the clutch housing.

From the top - Reverse Idler gear, Reverse shift holder, Reverse idler gear shaft, Differnetial and mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies.
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5019.jpg

32. Getting the ISB out is pretty easy. Just go in through the clutch housing side and tap the ISB out using a long extension and 5/8" socket. If you have trouble, just heat up the area around the ISB with a hair dryer.

33. Take out the oil seal using a flat head screwdriver.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5023.jpg

34. Put a new oil seal in (lube it up a bit with some oil before putting it in), then put the new ISB in and tap it down with even force. I put mine in the freezer for around 10 mins so it would go down easier! Ohh......and the trusty stock honda shift knob does still have a use! :D

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5025.jpg

35. I also noticed my countershaft needle bearing was sitting out of its seat, so I just tapped it back in.

Before:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5021.jpg

After:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5024.jpg

36. Once you have changed the bearings, I suggest you take out the 28mm plug bolt and 1st/2nd select spring so that you can turn the interlock in order to align it with the base of the shift forks.

Plug bolt @ base of picture:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5027.jpg

37. Now lower the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies and once the mainshaft/countershaft/shift fork assemblies are in, install the plug bolt (54Nm) and 1st/2nd select spring (put some liquid gasket on the threads of the plug bolt). Then install the shift Arm B attaching bolt+washer (31Nm) and make sure the interlock is lined up correctly with the base of the shift forks.

38. After you do this, ensure that the interlock is aligned up properly with the interlock guide bolt and tighten it (39Nm). If you don't, you will not only damage the interlock when you put the interlock guide bolt back in, but also be locked out of some gears.

The pic below shows the correct alignment for the interlock guide bolt (on either side of the hole are the sides of the interlock and in the middle is the shift arm shaft).

Correct alignment:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5017.jpg

39. Clean off any old sealant from the mating surfaces of the clutch/tranny housing and apply a new layer of liquid gasket.

Ben hard at it with the sealant!!!
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5028.jpg

40. Lower the tranny housing casing and expand the snap ring so that it sits in the groove of the countershaft bearing and also in the groove of the tranny housing casing. Once you get the snap ring half way in the groove, try turning the tranny on it side so the weight of the gearsets will pull the snap ring into its groove (kinda hard to expain, but you'll know when its in!)

41. Torque all the tranny housing bolts in a criss-cross even pattern to 27Nm (tighten them evenly first, then torque them after that).

42. Screw the backup light switch back up again.

43. Put some liquid gasket on the 32mm sealing bolt and torque it up to 25Nm.

44. Puting the tranny back in is pretty much the reverse of taking it out so just take your time and don't rush things.

45. Filing up the gearbox oil can be done either via the fill hole, or by taking out the vehicle speed sensor (VSS). There is ONLY 1 BOLT holding it in and it's a really tall bolt. Just fill it via the VSS hole till you see fluid coming out of the fill hole. My D16A8 took a bit over 2.5L.

You can see the VSS siting on the left of the pipe here:
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5170.jpg


Be very careful that you do not over tighten the VSS bolt as it will snap the bracket (trust me I did it!).
http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/medium/3IMG_5171.jpg

46. MAKE SURE YOU DO THE FOLLOWING when puting everything back together.

- Lube the mainshaft splines, release fork (where it contacts the release bearing, its pivot and the slave cylinder) and the release bearing insides and circular contact (where it touches the pressure plate/diaphram spring) with some high temp CV joint grease
- Lube the drive shaft/axel splines with some grease so they don't rust and are easy to take out in the future.
- Torque the castle nut on the lower ball joint to 55Nm
- Install the cotter pin on the castle nut (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)
- Tighten the 32mm hub nut to and bend the metal tab into the indent (YOU MUST NOT SKIP THIS!)

Other comments

I think i've covered most things, so reply back if I haven't..........and just take your time when you are doing this and don't rush anything :)

Gluck and have FUN!

PS: I would like to thank ECU-MAN, Bren, some of my other mates and the internet for all the help they gave me :D

SiR JDM
05-12-2004, 07:28 PM
That is a very indepth and well writen guide!! Top work win!

showpony
05-12-2004, 07:49 PM
Awesome write up, well done. This will help heaps for when i have to do this myself once i get my car back from the panel beaters. Its only my third gearbox.

ECU-MAN
05-12-2004, 08:17 PM
nice write-up Win.

Choongas
05-12-2004, 10:27 PM
Awesome write-up! I was gonna one but knew you were doing yours too soo... :D

Pretty much the same with a B16A box... a breaker bar is a must!

I also took off the gearbox with the shift linkage still attached.. that damn pin wouldn't come out!

wynode
06-12-2004, 08:04 AM
I just had to clarify the order of the shift arm B attaching bolt and interlock guide bolt installation so have updated steps 37 and 38 :)

jim
06-12-2004, 09:10 AM
Whoa! Good work man, Great pics and commentary.

bennjamin
10-12-2004, 12:36 AM
*update*

Another Ozhonda success story - today myself and the Admin pulled out another D-series gbox...in record time.

Id like to add - the most annoyign art of this , step 3. , can be replaced with simply breaking the ball joints, then lifting the midhaft+LHS drvieshaft thru...and same with the RHS driveshaft.

Also , for STOCK exhaust manifolds - the 2-1 exit for the exhaust manifold MUST be removed ( 5 x bolts + 2 spring loaded bolts) to access flywheel cover etc.

wynode
10-12-2004, 08:08 AM
I concurr!

You don't have to take out the annoying 32mm hub nut! Just pop the ball joints and pull the driveshafts out and move them out of the way :)

SHould reduce the time it takes to do the whole thing dramatically!

bennjamin
10-12-2004, 09:34 PM
*AND* to add !

Flywheel machine / clutch change / rear main seal can be done easily when the gb is out ! DIY soon...



BTW take apart the GB via snap-ring etc FIRST before handing to a professional...sometimes there is things you can do yourself before gettign charged labour *sigh*

Choongas
14-12-2004, 12:18 PM
It only took me about 5mins to get the hub nuts off :confused:

I sprayed some WD40, got someone to step on the brakes, and used a breaker bar.

Then again the car isn't as old i guess :)

Weq
28-12-2004, 11:45 AM
good writeup

michael_antoi
09-02-2006, 09:39 AM
bump for an old thread.

A mate has just ripped the seal right next to where the passenger side CV goes into the gearbox. It is dripping out tranny fluid.

How easy/hard is this to change?

I'm assuming it can be changed without taking the gearbox apart?

I refer to this seal.


http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/3IMG_5004-med.jpg

black in the middle of the pic

bennjamin
09-02-2006, 11:16 AM
easy. drain gb fluid , Take out the driveshaft (no need to take the 32mm hub nut off , just loosen off suspension and slowly pull the drivehsaft to the side) and then shimmy out old seal , put in new seal (tap it in slowly) , reinstall and refill transmission fluid.

hotboxcivic
01-04-2006, 05:09 PM
wanting to know how many bearings can be changed on the g/box?

possible to buy everything single bearing to change straight from Honda?

ie, call Honda and say "can i buy everything single bearing that can be changed in a Dseries gbox?"

also the high temp cv grease and sealant can be bought at any auto-store?

ECU-MAN
01-04-2006, 05:24 PM
there is probably 20 to 30 bearings in the Mt box

if call honda parts and give them yor VIN number they will price them for you

hope you got a big budget

hotboxcivic
02-04-2006, 10:52 PM
that's gotta suck..

would the thrust bearing be in the gbox?

bennjamin
03-04-2006, 06:47 PM
that's gotta suck..

would the thrust bearing be in the gbox?

No , its also called the "release" bearing. Its the large bearing that your clutch pedal pushes in (via a cable or hydralic lines) which pushed onto the clutch diaphragm and disengages the clutch.
You do need to remove the gearbox to replace this bearing tho.

hotboxcivic
12-04-2006, 01:21 AM
i'm gonna kill that snap ring!

egads
18-07-2006, 09:27 PM
bump! any chance of getting the pics back up?

wynode
22-07-2006, 12:00 AM
Pics are back :)

Timaay
25-07-2006, 05:11 PM
i did all this with a mechanic mate but replaced all the bearings but not the seals. my advise is to replace all the seals again aswell otherwise ur going to be like me and your going to have a leak out of the main shaft..Very Grrr... leak means slippery oil clutch and drips all over ur garage floor. now i have to do everything again just to get to the seals.

ak3rx
19-12-2007, 06:30 PM
how long does the process take, cause im thinking of doing it :o

Z
20-12-2007, 01:17 PM
Yeh how long and how difficult is just the tranny removal/replacement part?? Was thinking of changing my tranny over for something a bit shorter...

PS. Good writeup...:thumbsup:

ECU-MAN
20-12-2007, 08:37 PM
a good mechanic can take the gearbox out in 1 hour, a back yarder will take a day.

it all boils down to yoru compentency level and the tools you have available

wynode
21-12-2007, 10:51 PM
a good mechanic can take the gearbox out in 1 hour, a back yarder will take a day.

it all boils down to yoru compentency level and the tools you have available
And practice :)

lukecivic
19-02-2008, 09:35 PM
bump...great write up! :D

doin it this weekend :)
what sealant should i use for the gearbox to the engine?
and also what fluid is okay to use for the gbox, obviously honda genuine but could i use something like mobilube 80w90?

wynode
19-02-2008, 10:43 PM
what sealant should i use for the gearbox to the engine?
and also what fluid is okay to use for the gbox, obviously honda genuine but could i use something like mobilube 80w90?

1. There is no sealing agent between the gearbox casing and the block.
2. Go with the obvious answer :)

lukecivic
20-02-2008, 11:03 PM
thanks heaps

yeah i found out today that i dont have to use anything to seal the GB to the engine

aaaand i ended up buying honda MTF today :D only the best :p

Rice_banger
21-06-2008, 11:35 PM
im thinking of replacing my clutch ,

so amm sorry for the noob question , so once the gear box is out like following this guide , is there much more to do

im noob dont know what im doing but this thread is great

Rice_banger
25-08-2008, 07:11 PM
trying to do this to change a clutch

so far i have removed everything expect for the slave cylinder im having troubles with it , the dust cover doesn't seem to come of, and i dont understand how the realse fork helps remove the gear box

Nemesis415
02-09-2008, 04:52 PM
how did you undo the shift linkage from under the shifter like u mentioned in the thread?

GREAT Thread by the way!!!:thumbsup:

Rice_banger
02-09-2008, 07:00 PM
not to hard , 1 bolt on 1 end , then go under neath the gear stick and anther bolt , DO NOT try undo the split pins

JasonGilholme
03-09-2008, 04:21 PM
Nice work :) Hope to do that to mine later on, look what mine looked like when I pulled it out...

http://r446.photobucket.com/albums/o94/ricki/ (http://smouch.net/lol/)

good one fcuk wit.

trying to help people out while i'm at work and get hit with stupid shit like that. :thumbdwn::thumbdwn:

-rep & reported. :thumbdwn:

elim
27-11-2008, 11:38 PM
bump this up as I have a relevant question, you say use a socket and long extention to knock the ISB out ?
with my box, the diameter of the inner bearing is the same as the diameter of where the input shaft goes into, there's no way to use a socket and knock it from the other side. If you place a socket that just fits the clutch housing, it will just slip through the bearing.

Can you clarify?

Jaime
16-05-2010, 05:28 PM
Bringing It back from the dead. Great help and well written.

wynode
16-05-2010, 07:52 PM
bump this up as I have a relevant question, you say use a socket and long extention to knock the ISB out ?
with my box, the diameter of the inner bearing is the same as the diameter of where the input shaft goes into, there's no way to use a socket and knock it from the other side. If you place a socket that just fits the clutch housing, it will just slip through the bearing.

Can you clarify?

This is a REALLY late reply, but for the others out there.........it doesn't really matter what you use. You just need something to tap the ISB out with.


Bringing It back from the dead. Great help and well written.

Thanks!

dougie_504
22-05-2010, 03:27 PM
Brilliant. Rep for you.

vanishingpoint
08-01-2011, 12:41 PM
hi guys, i just wondering how much does the input shaft bearing cost. cause i heard it should be more than hundred dollars but i went to honda part specialist department they quote me for 36.43aud. i was suprised and i doubt that staff provide me the right parts. thanks guys

dougie_504
09-01-2011, 04:32 PM
I thought it was around the $50 mark. Over $100 surely not

ECU-MAN
10-01-2011, 08:03 AM
$37 sound correct for an ISB

rossirider
19-04-2011, 02:31 PM
I'm kind of confused on how to do step 4? popping the lower ball joint?
How does it work?

ECU-MAN
19-04-2011, 04:00 PM
your using the weight of the spring and the rest of the loaded suspention to crack the lower joint. the braker bar that is wedged between the hub and LCA is needed to force the crack

hmetro24
10-05-2011, 05:56 PM
http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/1461/10052011308.jpg
Which bearing the ISB ??
and where can i get bearing ?what is the bearing number For B000
Thanks

bennjamin
10-05-2011, 07:03 PM
the ISB is located underneath the CENTRAL gearshaft shown in that image.

hmetro24
10-05-2011, 07:21 PM
the ISB is located underneath the CENTRAL gearshaft shown in that image.
is it the one that goes into the engine where the clutch,

bennjamin
10-05-2011, 07:24 PM
is it the one that goes into the engine where the clutch,

Yes - hence the name "input-shaft-bearing"

egb16b
11-12-2011, 01:26 AM
This DIY is pro .. Going to change my ISB since my b series box is out..Honda should hire this guy to write their manuals lol..

Repage!