h22a or d16y4 boost

[lee83]

hi guys...what u reckon is best...well i have like 5-6k to spend on my car....its a ek1 hatch...with a d16y4...should i boost it or go 4 h22a n/a....was thinking of h22a conversion but dont noe if any1 can do it 4 cheap...any workshop in brisbane area,,or backyard machanic,,let me noe please.....

[lookingforboost]

would prolly work out cheaper to boost the Y4 than to do the H22a conversion properly into your EK.

I am selling my turbo kit off my EK its all bolt on you can do it yourself and still have heaps of money left over to do heaps of other mods!!

[its_ish]

Depends on what you ultimately want...
Are you just after maximum power or overall balance and driveability?
Are you going to use for track, drag or as a weekend warrior car?

I have a B16 turbo on my EF and i have to admit nothings more exciting that snapping your head back when the turbo kicks in but im afraid to say still prefer Naturally aspirated cars. I have a DC5 with K24 for my daily driver and i have to say that i rarely take the EF out for a spin and am actually in the process of selling. I just find N.A. cars more pleasurable to drive on a daily basis; very reliable; fun to drive on the road, track as well as drag.

Relating to your question, I would have to say probably go for the NA option. Perhaps look at a B20 and B18C7 Frankenstein. Some guys here are able to extract decent power figures in the 130KW range. The B20 will provide you sufficient torque and the B18C7 head will give you adrenaline pumping top end. Power delivery is also fairly linear in comparison to a turbocharged car. This engine combination is lighter than the H22 alternative which will give you better overall balance for your car. The B20/B18 Frankenstein combination should set you back $6-7,000 mark which would be more than turbocharging your current D16 engine, but i personally think it will be more reliable and less hassle for you in the long run. A lot of things can go wrong with a turbo engine over a naturally aspirated one. Also note that you will have to get engineers for an engine conversion or turbocharging your current engine. Engineering costs around $800 to over $1,000. So bear that in mind also...

[dougie_504]

I recommend H22A. It'll probably make just as much power as a budget boost project, only you won't (IMO) has as many issues and insurance won't go up too much etc :)

[GenesisEG]

It depends entirely on what you want to achieve with your car.

It's easier to put out big power figures with a turbo setup, although on a D series, I'm not sure what kind of power figures you can achieve with a bolt on turbo.

NA cars are much better suited to the style of driving that Civics really shine in.

In my experience, if you want big power, get rid of the Civic and buy something with a big engine. The cost to build a Civic that will do 10's down the strip is immense.

For a start, you can't really lay down big power in a light front wheel drive. The weight transfers to the back of the car under heavy acceleration, and the drive wheels lose traction.

Secondly, big power and front wheel drives equals massive torque steer, a bad thing. Last thing you want is for the turbo to spool mid corner and wrench the car sideways into a tree. A mate of mine had a Mazda 3 MPS, and when that turbo kicked in, he had to brace his arm against the door to keep the car straight. He wrote it off not long after he bought it.

Third, an engine tuned for forced induction is very slugging outside of boost, making it a nightmare for an amateur driver to keep power down on the road. You really want a smooth power curve with a responsive engine to really make the most of the Civic anywhere outside of a drag strip. Keeping a car inside the power band of a turbo car on a touge is nightmarish, especially with small engines that lack power outside of boost. The second you drop below boost, you lose all speed and power.

Personally, I'd go for something like a B18C. Civics are light, anything over a 1.8 is overkill unless you're tracking it, and even then, the B18C can hold its own. Should be a relatively cheap conversion to get a full B18C installed. I've not seen a H conversion but a K conversion gets pricey...

Again, it depends on what you want. Straight lines... Doesn't really matter what you get, it's all pretty simple. If you actually want to do some cornering in your car, go NA.

[barefootbonzai]

I"m in brisbane. I can put a h22 into your car for that price range.

[blastnpast]

Im up for the same conversion man, im tossing up which to choose :S, i was thinking h22a seeming its got so much power being a 2.2 vtec nd all but man the guy who said dont coz it is overkill seems preety spot on not shore what i want no more :S h22a are cheaper then b18 and comes to same price as a b16a l0l :( what the hell do we do :(

[lookingforboost]

H22a's sit really low in an EK remember, its easy work out what you want to do with the car and how much you honestly want to spend and what you can afford and do what suits you.
as for reliablity i have yet to have a problem with my turbo setup its starts first go everytime never over heats a power is 100% increase over stock if your not going to look after the car you will have problems and if you cant look after a turbo car then you cant look after a B so you should have either!!! and as for engeineering if you go to a dodgy one you will pay 1000+ but if you get it passed legit and its really not that hard all my mates have payd 300 for there certificate from legit and registered RTA approved! engeineers :)

[bennjamin]

just imo


in ALL situations , a h22a will most likely be quicker/faster and better/more reliable than a boosted d series.

Just my opinion.

[lookingforboost]

just for comparisons sake what dose a H22a run say down the quarter? reliablity is only as good as the owner :P

[its_ish]

IMO if the car will be used for drag applications, either a H22 or a turbo set up.
For track, a B20/B18C7 Frankenstein is better alternative.

A stock H22 on an EG chassis should do about 13-14 second pass depending on driver, tyres, suspension set up etc...

[cheapdouchebag]

h22a swaps will be a bit harder but, labour cost will be higher than swapping in a beries into an ek because of the different mounts (if im not mistaken), b-series engine swaps are just a upgrade because ek chasis was made for d-series and b-series engines. which i think is why more people go with a b-series swap rather than a h22a, i mean cmon h22a is so attractive its got a nice delivery of torque compared to the rest.

[Limbo]

D series will only make about 130-140ish atw on stock internals.

H22 will make about that also, but you will have consistant torque throughout.

I'd go H22, especially if you wanna track. Boosted cars need more work for tracking, they get alot hotter than NA cars.