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View Full Version : 03 CL9 License Plate lights not working...Not a fuse/bulb problem!



djpro1
12-02-2010, 11:20 PM
Yes I've done a search... and this is just a thread asking if anyone else has had the same problem? If so how did you fix it and how much did it cost for the auto electrician?

My lights at the license plates don't seem to be working.. I heard police are catching people out for this small defect... I took the car to 2 servos and they checked all fuses and none of them were burnt out. Tested a few linked circuits based on fuses such as the cigarette lighter etc.. and the ciggy light works just fine..

I also replaced the bulbs with T10 LEDs as my stock yellow did not work. Yes I placed them in properly. I've replaced several T10s in the car already (parkers, side door lights)

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks

HunterZero
13-02-2010, 12:20 AM
I do know that early CL9 Accords had a recall for a fault in the wiring harness that could cause the lights on the bootlid to fail, eg the numberplate and reversing lights. I think that the problem area would be the wiring in the boot hinge.

See if Honda can do anything for you.

- HZ

tony1234
13-02-2010, 08:17 AM
Yes I've done a search... and this is just a thread asking if anyone else has had the same problem? If so how did you fix it and how much did it cost for the auto electrician?

My lights at the license plates don't seem to be working.. I heard police are catching people out for this small defect... I took the car to 2 servos and they checked all fuses and none of them were burnt out. Tested a few linked circuits based on fuses such as the cigarette lighter etc.. and the ciggy light works just fine..

I also replaced the bulbs with T10 LEDs as my stock yellow did not work. Yes I placed them in properly. I've replaced several T10s in the car already (parkers, side door lights)

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks
Just go to auto electrician.Or if you're handy rewire no.plate lights back to the tail lights.

OMG.JAI xD
13-02-2010, 10:48 AM
Do a continuity test.
A light bulb is a simple connecter. Power in power out. + and -.

Unplug the connector for the license plate bulb.
Turn you park lights on.
Go back to your connector with a multimeter. Put it in volts or diode test (itll beep if a current or voltage passes through the circuit)
If you get OL (overload) in volts or no beep then you have an open circuit somewhere.

Another way is by using a test light.
Testing power supply is easy. Find a ground and probe the pins. If both pins dont light up, then you have no power supply. If one does light up. You have power
Then test your ground. If you know you have a power supply, probe the power pin and probe the other end of the test light to the other pin. If it lights up you have a complete circuit and your fault is in the globe socket or globe itself.

If not then you dont have ground.
You dont really need an auto electrician to do small checks on basic electrical connectors.