ECU Options

[fromdeeeast]

I'm looking at upgrading the ECU in my car as I have nfi whats in it, and yer basically would love to upgrade it and have the car running at its best potential.

I have a 1994 Honda Integra VtiR, T04E turbo etc

I've done some reading and it seems something like a Hondata ECU is most applicable for upgrades in Honda.

But I would like to know which is most suitable for a turbo application, would something like a Hondata s200 or something be able to be used. I know there useable for boosted cars and allow for Expanded fuel & ignition tables for boost.
From this link. http://www.hondata.com/s200.html

But I main question is what ECU should I be looking at?

Where would I be able to purchase one?

And where in Sydney are the "preferred" for Honda Tuning? (TODA, DR.Honda etc)

I know this sounds a bit stupid but any help would be appreciated

[Limbo]

they don't make the s200 anymore
You can only get the s100 & the s300.
The difference is mainly functions, see below
The s100 can handle boost also


From Hondatech.com.au

What is the Difference between the Hondata s100 s200 and s300 ECU’s



A very common question is what is the difference between the S product range in Hondata ECU’s this is a “brief” overview

To begin with all s100 s200 and s300 ECU’s from a tuning point of view have exactly the same tune ability in the way they control the engine. NO Hondata ECU will product more power than another, the drive ability, tune ability, economy and the way it controls the engine is exactly the same regardless of which Hondata ECU you use.

There is how ever a difference between the way a Authorized Hondatech tuner tunes the s100, s200 & s300 due to there difference in interfaces. This will not be covered in this article this purely talks about the features with direct relation to what will effect the end user and the features each ECU has.

Hondata s100
The s100 ECU is a none featured ECU, all the s100 has is the ability for an authorized dealer to tune your car perfectly in every possible way, it allows your engine to be tuned perfectly, from stock to mild to totally WILD modifications.

Hondata s200
The s200 ECU builds on top of the power of the s100 and add’s features to enhance the users experience. The extra features of the s200 delivers is as follows:

Data logging – The ability to plug up a laptop to your car and use the Hondata Logger software to record absolutely everything your car is doing with regards to the operation of your engine and all its sensors.

Launch control – This gives the ability of the ECU to control how you launch the car from stand still. The ECU will hold your RPM at a user definable point lets say 3000rpm and you can apply 100% throttle and your RPM will not increase above 3000rpm. This allows you 2 concentrate on your clutch engagement and letting the RPM be controlled by the ECU. For a example video view here

Full throttle shift - This gives the ability of the ECU to the driver to keep his foot on the accelerator 100% during a shift of gear, i.e when your racing and your driving flat stick and its time to change from 2nd gear into 3rd you would take your foot off the accelerator, push your clutch in, change gear, let your clutch go, and get back on the accelerator.
With full throttle shift you keep your foot on the accelerator, the Hondata ECU controls the RPM of the engine and all you simple do is clutch in , change gear and clutch out your foot never leaves the accelerator. This works very well for forced induction cars as it keeps boost levels constant totally removing turbo lag between gear changes.
For Example Videos on how Full Throttle Shift works Click Here and Here

Hondata s300
The s300 ECU is the new generation of Hondata ECU’s it combines all the features of the s200 and add the important element of data logging what your car is doing with out having a laptop plugged up. The s300 ECU has internal memory which will remember what your car as been doing, this is particularly important for drag racing or track cars when you can’t afford to have a laptop flying around the car whilst racing. The s300 still has launch control and full throttle shift. The s300 also user’s the latest management software called sManager.

[lookingforboost]

other options are EMS 4424 haltech E8 or E11V2 or platinum 1000 and 2000 i think they are called, microtech and if you have the money autronic ;)

[fat_85_civic]

or adaptronic, they are awesome ecus and do just about anything

[Centurius]

Your first move would be to check what's in it. You may find that it's a perfectly capable ECU and is just in need of a good tune.

If you do decide an upgrade is in order, you'll have to first purchase a new ECU, and then fork out for a new tune from scratch. If the old ecu is fine and just needs timing and fuel maps adjusted you could save some serious coin (and send it to me for providing such useful info :) )

But if a new ECU is inevitable, and you're already running OBD1 (should be on a 94), then my money's on Hondata as well. s100 if all you want to do is drive it, s300 if you want to be able to fiddle with datalogging, launch control etc etc.

[CRXDEL501]

pm sent

[Hooman]

i have a Vi-Pec V44 in my car and i love it. It does everything you can think of, mine has a great tune and runs the car like stock, easy to drive and the car with it's mods(boosted) has 60% more power. check out the ecu at www.vi-pec.com (http://www.vi-pec.com)

[vvti16v]

how much would tuning cost?

[CRXDEL501]

for which ecu?

[OMG.JAI xD]

If youre after power at 100% throttle hitting full boost (ie. Going down the drags).

ALL ECU's even piggyback will achieve the same if not within <1% of a difference.
As long as it has control over injection timing and ignition advance/retard.
Its all air fuel ratios with a timed spark. All depends on the tuner and dyno.
Same tuner. Same dyno. Same motor with different ECU's. Its no different.

Put it this way. Whats the difference between a 12:1 AFR tune with 20degrees timing at xxrpm with a hondata s300 and a 12:1 AFR tune with 20 degrees of timing at the same rpm with a haltech, microtech,vi-pec or whatever?
Nothing. Only ECU.

If youre after power. ECU isnt much of a worry.
However. Driveability, fuel efficiency, data logging features, extra features like anti lag, 2 step staging limiter and all that. Then you have to start doing some research.
If youre after power. Build the motor. ECU's dont make kilowatts/horsepower and torque. The engine does. The ECU controls it all.

To make it easy. Stick with a hondata. Its probably the most simplest stand alone-like ecu available for hondas.
There are many tuners out there. As i said. If youre after power, theyll all do the same output (well. If they know what theyre doing).

Id recommend TODA. Only cause ive been to them twice. Once with a vafcII and once with a boosted vtir with a haltech e6x. And adrian seems to know what hes doing. I mean if you do hondas nearly all day everyday. Why wouldnt you.
But that doesnt give me the right to say other tuners are bad.


A tune from 0 can take 2days. You have to get all the base setups right. And if youve changed your fuel and/ignition setup. Its better you have receipts for the part numbers or get the tuner to fit them for you. This will reduce the tuning time significantly. And youll get a better result as theyll know what product theyre working with.
If the base setup is done and a base tune is setup just to get the car driving. The tune can take 4-6 hours depending on the ECU, what type of tune (n/a or boost), and if boosted how much boost the engines going to be running.
A retune will be around about the same time. Depending on how bad the tune was previously.

Hope this has helped.

[Limbo]

If youre after power at 100% throttle hitting full boost (ie. Going down the drags).

ALL ECU's even piggyback will achieve the same if not within <1% of a difference.
As long as it has control over injection timing and ignition advance/retard.
Its all air fuel ratios with a timed spark. All depends on the tuner and dyno.
Same tuner. Same dyno. Same motor with different ECU's. Its no different.

Put it this way. Whats the difference between a 12:1 AFR tune with 20degrees timing at xxrpm with a hondata s300 and a 12:1 AFR tune with 20 degrees of timing at the same rpm with a haltech, microtech,vi-pec or whatever?
Nothing. Only ECU.

If youre after power. ECU isnt much of a worry.
However. Driveability, fuel efficiency, data logging features, extra features like anti lag, 2 step staging limiter and all that. Then you have to start doing some research.
If youre after power. Build the motor. ECU's dont make kilowatts/horsepower and torque. The engine does. The ECU controls it all.

To make it easy. Stick with a hondata. Its probably the most simplest stand alone-like ecu available for hondas.
There are many tuners out there. As i said. If youre after power, theyll all do the same output (well. If they know what theyre doing).

Id recommend TODA. Only cause ive been to them twice. Once with a vafcII and once with a boosted vtir with a haltech e6x. And adrian seems to know what hes doing. I mean if you do hondas nearly all day everyday. Why wouldnt you.
But that doesnt give me the right to say other tuners are bad.


A tune from 0 can take 2days. You have to get all the base setups right. And if youve changed your fuel and/ignition setup. Its better you have receipts for the part numbers or get the tuner to fit them for you. This will reduce the tuning time significantly. And youll get a better result as theyll know what product theyre working with.
If the base setup is done and a base tune is setup just to get the car driving. The tune can take 4-6 hours depending on the ECU, what type of tune (n/a or boost), and if boosted how much boost the engines going to be running.
A retune will be around about the same time. Depending on how bad the tune was previously.

Hope this has helped.

:thumbsup: totally agree

[EGcoupe]

For turbo cars, I think the Hondata S300 is the best hands down. It is the easiest to use and never seems to have any problems. HA Motorsports sells the Hondata S300 and ECU as a package which makes it really easy. You just plug it in to your harness and go :)

http://www.hamotorsports.com/s300obd1ecu.html

[lookingforboost]

the best is the autronic SM4 plug in mmmm :)

[kccord]

First rule as 'every one' would say: Go use an ecu that your preferred tuner can install and tune! There is no point of spending on i.e. autronics where your tuner is going to say "I'll have a fiddle with the program and get used to it" but truth wise, tuning is all the same, fuel and air. The difference is only the capability of each ecu and its interface.

Go with S300, Bisi @ Bisimoto did an excellent deal for me: http://www.bisimoto.net/store/

How much? - $680 US shipped via USPS

How long did it take to install? -30 mins (unplug old accord P0A ecu, swap O2 wire against egr in the harness and simply plug in the P28 with s300 in)

-> If you compare this to suppose say you bought a piggy back or haltech or autronic, it would be at least another $400 for workshop to do wiring and installation.

How long did it take to get 290whp? -3 hours worth of tuning from rough basemap, $600.

I still have so many capability in the s300 that I have not even touched, antilag, launch control, full throttle shift etc etc.

[Blue]

First rule as 'every one' would say: Go use an ecu that your preferred tuner can install and tune! There is no point of spending on i.e. autronics where your tuner is going to say "I'll have a fiddle with the program and get used to it" but truth wise, tuning is all the same, fuel and air. The difference is only the capability of each ecu and its interface.

Go with S300, Bisi @ Bisimoto did an excellent deal for me: http://www.bisimoto.net/store/

How much? - $680 US shipped via USPS

How long did it take to install? -30 mins (unplug old accord P0A ecu, swap O2 wire against egr in the harness and simply plug in the P28 with s300 in)

-> If you compare this to suppose say you bought a piggy back or haltech or autronic, it would be at least another $400 for workshop to do wiring and installation.

How long did it take to get 290whp? -3 hours worth of tuning from rough basemap, $600.

I still have so many capability in the s300 that I have not even touched, antilag, launch control, full throttle shift etc etc.

Seems your currently best off with a Hondata, but if you plan to ever move on from the Honda, consider wisely.

[SiR Vtec]

First rule as 'every one' would say: Go use an ecu that your preferred tuner can install and tune! There is no point of spending on i.e. autronics where your tuner is going to say "I'll have a fiddle with the program and get used to it" but truth wise, tuning is all the same, fuel and air. The difference is only the capability of each ecu and its interface.

Go with S300, Bisi @ Bisimoto did an excellent deal for me: http://www.bisimoto.net/store/

How much? - $680 US shipped via USPS

How long did it take to install? -30 mins (unplug old accord P0A ecu, swap O2 wire against egr in the harness and simply plug in the P28 with s300 in)

-> If you compare this to suppose say you bought a piggy back or haltech or autronic, it would be at least another $400 for workshop to do wiring and installation.

How long did it take to get 290whp? -3 hours worth of tuning from rough basemap, $600.

I still have so many capability in the s300 that I have not even touched, antilag, launch control, full throttle shift etc etc.

How much did it cost you to tune??

[zillacles]

He said it right there;
3 hours worth of tuning from rough basemap, $600.

[fat_85_civic]

Yep, most tuners ive talked to range from 160 to 220 per hour of dyno time.

[Lukezen27]

I think Hondata S100B is the best bang for buck at only $350
But as kccord says, its always best to use what your tuners comfortable using