Neesmo31
02-03-2010, 06:54 AM
Just a quick write up on installation of avid/oem torque mounts for a dc2r.
1. Jack the nose of the car up, use jack stand under sills for safety.
2. Remove plastic mid-undertray (remember to keep all bolts bundled where your not going to kick or loose them)
3. Start with the drivers side. Crack the retaining nut on the mount shaft first, then crack the torque mount to chassis bolts, then crack the 3 mount hangar to gearbox bolts.
4. Fully take off the nut, the 2 bolts and 2 mount hangar bolt leaving one in there, swing the arm down and remove old mount.
5. Reassemble this side reversing the operation with new oem/avid mount but dont tighten everything up (leave the 2 mount to chassis bolts off - you need these off to get the passenger side mount off)
6. Passenger side. Crack the retaining nut on the mount shaft first, then crack the torque mount to chassis bolts. Undo them completely at this stage.
7. Loosen off gearbox to chassis mount - undo the 2 nuts and the single bolt (not the horizontal one running through the rubberised section) Remember to completely undo the bolt, but leave enough nut on the threads so they will take the weight of the engine on that side.
8. Do the same steps for 7 on the engine to chassis mount on the passenger side.
9. As you start doing this the motor will start to hang down in the engine bay, allowing you to remove the old torque mount.
10. Install new mount on passenger side loosely (you will need a spacer to go between the mount and the hangar assembly if using avid mounts) You can put the 2 mount-to-chassis bolts in now if they will go but you may have to wait until later.
11. Using another small jack, take the weight of the motor and start to retighten all the mounts again. This saves pulling the motor up with the bolts/nuts which is not good practice.
- As the box/engine start to come up in the bay, you could now put the 2 mount-to-chassis bolts in on drivers and passenger side.
12. Evenly start to retighten all bolts/nuts - making sure that you used Loctite Nickel Anti-seize on all bolts/nut. This saves headaches down the track.
13. I used a 3/8" drive set and tightened everything using this (first) that way you know that its all seated properly before leaning on anything.
14. Using honda manual, re-torque all bolts/nut to correct setting, marking off each bolt/nut with a paint pen so you know that they are done.
15. Re-torque everything again!!!!!!!! Yes thats right - check it all over again. Best be safe when it comes to any work that you do yourself, you may have missed one.
16. Put undertray back on, lower, check for all tools and extra nuts/bolts you hopefully dont have laying around and check it all again.
17. Start and listen for rattles and any issues.
18. Enjoy avid vibrations!!
Hopefully this gives a bit of insight, and a bit of a hand to DIY'ers who want to change their mounts.
Thanks.
1. Jack the nose of the car up, use jack stand under sills for safety.
2. Remove plastic mid-undertray (remember to keep all bolts bundled where your not going to kick or loose them)
3. Start with the drivers side. Crack the retaining nut on the mount shaft first, then crack the torque mount to chassis bolts, then crack the 3 mount hangar to gearbox bolts.
4. Fully take off the nut, the 2 bolts and 2 mount hangar bolt leaving one in there, swing the arm down and remove old mount.
5. Reassemble this side reversing the operation with new oem/avid mount but dont tighten everything up (leave the 2 mount to chassis bolts off - you need these off to get the passenger side mount off)
6. Passenger side. Crack the retaining nut on the mount shaft first, then crack the torque mount to chassis bolts. Undo them completely at this stage.
7. Loosen off gearbox to chassis mount - undo the 2 nuts and the single bolt (not the horizontal one running through the rubberised section) Remember to completely undo the bolt, but leave enough nut on the threads so they will take the weight of the engine on that side.
8. Do the same steps for 7 on the engine to chassis mount on the passenger side.
9. As you start doing this the motor will start to hang down in the engine bay, allowing you to remove the old torque mount.
10. Install new mount on passenger side loosely (you will need a spacer to go between the mount and the hangar assembly if using avid mounts) You can put the 2 mount-to-chassis bolts in now if they will go but you may have to wait until later.
11. Using another small jack, take the weight of the motor and start to retighten all the mounts again. This saves pulling the motor up with the bolts/nuts which is not good practice.
- As the box/engine start to come up in the bay, you could now put the 2 mount-to-chassis bolts in on drivers and passenger side.
12. Evenly start to retighten all bolts/nuts - making sure that you used Loctite Nickel Anti-seize on all bolts/nut. This saves headaches down the track.
13. I used a 3/8" drive set and tightened everything using this (first) that way you know that its all seated properly before leaning on anything.
14. Using honda manual, re-torque all bolts/nut to correct setting, marking off each bolt/nut with a paint pen so you know that they are done.
15. Re-torque everything again!!!!!!!! Yes thats right - check it all over again. Best be safe when it comes to any work that you do yourself, you may have missed one.
16. Put undertray back on, lower, check for all tools and extra nuts/bolts you hopefully dont have laying around and check it all again.
17. Start and listen for rattles and any issues.
18. Enjoy avid vibrations!!
Hopefully this gives a bit of insight, and a bit of a hand to DIY'ers who want to change their mounts.
Thanks.