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BusterSonic12
02-03-2010, 10:54 AM
Has anyone tried or have successfully transplanted a K20A into the euro (CL9)?

I know 'EUR003act' has done something with internal and made the K24Z1 but has anyone actually tried doing a K20A swap? I always loved the euro, so it just got me thinking ;)

What's need to get it done?

I believe the transmission from the K24A can be used with K20A? One of the major problem with tuning K24A is the lack of support from ecu, but wouldn't changing to K20A means having a cable throttle body which should means that K-Pro then can be used with the euro?

aaronng
02-03-2010, 10:58 AM
Still the same, you still need to use a piggyback k20a ECU onto a k24a ECU because the dash operates off the ECU.

oongie
02-03-2010, 11:14 AM
Not flaming, just my 2c.
Putting a K20A into a CL9 would be as effective as a DC5R or EP3.
Purely to do with the weight of the CL9.
Speaking with Indy at IS motorsport, the K20A parts are interchangeable with the K24.
The best way to achieve a K20/24 frank would be K24 bottom end and the rest K20.
I TOO would like to see a true K20/24 frank build but the cost associated with doing this would far outweigh the price of selling and buying something faster.

BusterSonic12
02-03-2010, 11:17 AM
Not flaming, just my 2c.
Putting a K20A into a CL9 would be as effective as a DC5R or EP3.
Purely to do with the weight of the CL9.
Speaking with Indy at IS motorsport, the K20A parts are interchangeable with the K24.
The best way to achieve a K20/24 frank would be K24 bottom end and the rest K20.
I TOO would like to see a true K20/24 frank build but the cost associated with doing this would far outweigh the price of selling and buying something faster.

I already own a DC5R :p I just always liked the euro. I had own euro before. People on this forum has probably seen me popping into the euro section a few different stages LOL so yah i might be coming back for this.

I thought about K20/24 but then ecu has always been my worry. I got all the Toda Spec C camshafts and everything else i needed in my room now that is ready to either go into my DC5R or go into this project euro. thinking thinking.

integral90
02-03-2010, 10:43 PM
I personally think the Euro is a nicer chassis, even if it does weight more. If you were willing to put the money in and do a genuine k20/k24 then it would be incredible. There are a heap of worked DC5Rs around... not really any Euros :D

tron07
03-03-2010, 08:21 AM
supercharge a euro

BusterSonic12
03-03-2010, 08:22 AM
supercharge a euro

Plan to stay NA :p

tony1234
03-03-2010, 04:02 PM
supercharge a euro
Comptech in the states has one.Only problem is getting our ECU to work with it.:(

IEVAQ8
03-03-2010, 04:15 PM
well, if u buy a euro we can swap engines..............i got a k20 dc5r engine here for sale, and looking for a k24 euro engine... ;)

oongie
03-03-2010, 04:24 PM
a full k20/24 frank would be awesome!
ECU you could use the KPRO, should'nt be an issue, electrics AC run by K24 ECU and Engine etc run by the K20 ECU.

sodaz
03-03-2010, 05:39 PM
Basically it would be like trying to make an Aussie version of the Euro R CL7.

I also think the Euro has a nicer chassis than the DC5. I think a stripped version would make a better race car. If it weighed a 150kgs less it would be perfect. The K20a doesn't have enough torque IMO to push the Euro around and the power delivery is more peaky. I would look at ways to make more power with the K24a rather than going for the swap.

TypeG
03-03-2010, 06:11 PM
Do it leon
I would love to see and so bad you sold your parts

BusterSonic12
03-03-2010, 06:43 PM
I can just buy them again. Well i do plan to use parts which i haven't used before haha

Still thinking to push a k24 or k20 or k20/24. The cams from K20 will fit into the k24? Would using the kpro resolve the rev limiter issue?

TypeG
03-03-2010, 07:10 PM
kpro will solve it as there are a few K20/24 anyway.
cam i GUESS can be use on k24...
for your project, i would love to see a K20 or K20/24 =)
buy a base model and take all the interior part....
i cant wait to see this project as back in the old day, i always want to put a K20 in as it is a lot more potential.....
and Euro... is the only car I want to drive it again.... the best jap car I have ever drive in term of comfort/fun/potential

integral90
03-03-2010, 07:43 PM
You'll need a valvetrain made for K20A to use K20A cams on the K24A. From what I remember the valve seats and guides need to be K20A

KPRO will get rid of rev limiter... it's a stand alone

aaronng
03-03-2010, 10:11 PM
You'll need a valvetrain made for K20A to use K20A cams on the K24A. From what I remember the valve seats and guides need to be K20A

KPRO will get rid of rev limiter... it's a stand alone

You need K20A valve seats and guides if you want to use K20A valve springs. They are not required to run K20A cams. However, K20A cams with k24A springs @ 8000rpm = valve float lol.

integral90
03-03-2010, 10:52 PM
You need K20A valve seats and guides if you want to use K20A valve springs. They are not required to run K20A cams. However, K20A cams with k24A springs @ 8000rpm = valve float lol.

I thought with the higher lift of the K20A VTEC lobes that even at 7200rpm you'd get float if you used the stock K24A springs?

aaronng
03-03-2010, 11:40 PM
I thought with the higher lift of the K20A VTEC lobes that even at 7200rpm you'd get float if you used the stock K24A springs?
Not sure, TODA AU or someone else could answer that properly.

90LAN
04-03-2010, 06:58 PM
just get a euro-r front cut plenty available from japan
then its a straigth swap

no need to pay for extras and engine builds

TypeG
04-03-2010, 08:42 PM
just get a euro-r front cut plenty available from japan
then its a straigth swap

no need to pay for extras and engine builds

yeah agree....

oongie
04-03-2010, 08:51 PM
Wonder if you put in a k20 into a k24 you'd need an engineers cert? Lower capacity engine right...?

90LAN
04-03-2010, 08:56 PM
Wonder if you put in a k20 into a k24 you'd need an engineers cert? Lower capacity engine right...?

no as it came standard from the same car

oongie
04-03-2010, 09:10 PM
Ooh o_0
lose 100 - 200 Kg chuck in the K20 and driveline
Hooray Euro R

aaronng
04-03-2010, 09:29 PM
just get a euro-r front cut plenty available from japan
then its a straigth swap

no need to pay for extras and engine builds

Not a straight swap. The stock ECU would go crazy. You'll need to piggyback a K-pro'd K20A ECU onto the K24A ECU.

90LAN
04-03-2010, 10:11 PM
Not a straight swap. The stock ECU would go crazy. You'll need to piggyback a K-pro'd K20A ECU onto the K24A ECU.


why would it go crazy its factory oem stock ecu made by honda for that engine

no need to go piggy back or do money wasting shit

you just swap everything over same model car just with better motor

note read wrong model thought it was cl7 my bad

just do some custom wiring to use cl7 stuff

aaronng
04-03-2010, 11:18 PM
just do some custom wiring to use cl7 stuff

Unfortunately, the sensors on the K20A engine is different to that on the K24A engine. So while the ECU might be expecting for example a voltage reading of 1-2V for a sensor, the K20A sensor might give out something out of the range like 2.5V, causing the ECU to go into limp mode.

It is very different to how a D, B or H series ECU, which is why the Euro is quite limited in in that sense. Of course, with enough money, anything is possible (i.e., dump the dash and aircon and run a motec instrument display instead. :))

Phased
05-03-2010, 01:02 AM
IMO

The Euro is a great chassis however the additional weight compared to it's "sportier" counterparts would make it a large sacrifice (drivability, low/mid end) to reduce the displacement in favor of top end power.

One of the main reasons all Honda owners are intrigued by the chassis rigidity of the Euro is because the Civics, Integras and CRX's are small cars. In order for a car with small displacement to be fast Naturally Asprirated (and keep good road manners) would be to keep weight to a minimum. Thus why Honda go into such detail with weight reduction (more so in the NSX-R). "Ceteris Paribus" something has to suffer, in this case chassis rigidity.

My suggestion would be supercharge a K24. Less ECU Hassles, probebly cost you less money in the long run for very similar power and ALOT more torque. Also nothing beats that supercharger wine to make people think "wtf?! was that an Euro?!" when you drive past! haha.

If only Honda released an Accord Euro with a RWD small block 4ltr V8 VTEC in it! haha.

TypeG
05-03-2010, 08:46 AM
Unfortunately, the sensors on the K20A engine is different to that on the K24A engine. So while the ECU might be expecting for example a voltage reading of 1-2V for a sensor, the K20A sensor might give out something out of the range like 2.5V, causing the ECU to go into limp mode.

It is very different to how a D, B or H series ECU, which is why the Euro is quite limited in in that sense. Of course, with enough money, anything is possible (i.e., dump the dash and aircon and run a motec instrument display instead. :))

cant we just use the cl7 ecu as well if we got the front cut?

BusterSonic12
05-03-2010, 10:14 AM
k20, k24, k20/24 is no big deal since i plan to get hondata anyway.

now i need to look for a blue euro sport! but there aren't many around on Carsales at all :eek: i'll willing to go out to melbourne or queensland to pick up one but mostly are either red or graphite.

had a red and a graphite before, want something different :p

oongie
05-03-2010, 11:00 AM
In regards to ECU, you could just dump the K20 into the engine bay use the euro-R ecu in and voila from the halfcut.

BusterSonic12
05-03-2010, 11:07 AM
In regards to ECU, you could just dump the K20 into the engine bay use the euro-R ecu in and voila from the halfcut.

you will need kpro as the dashboard won't work with CL7 ecu.

and i don't plan to just put a stock k20 in it.

i got these sitting on my dining table now =) thinking to use it in a k20a or k24a. or k20/24. but doesn't matter now. need to find a blue euro sport first lol

http://i94.photobucket.com/albums/l107/bustersonic12/12022010032.jpg

TypeG
05-03-2010, 04:40 PM
just get a cheap cheap base euro and respray since it is a project car anyway

Accord Basic
07-03-2010, 12:08 AM
blue or pearl is the best colour. respray it for an uni colour EURO hehehe. Mine is graphite. bored. that y I put a few stickers on it. and custom make Type S stickers on rear doors.
I like to see what you can do on the EURO. I am thinking put a supercharger. It cost too much and my engine is done 160k.
do you guys think I need to re-con the engine before put the supercharge in? does it need certificate to install superchager?
who can do the ecu tunning in Perth?

tron07
08-03-2010, 08:07 AM
you will need kpro as the dashboard won't work with CL7 ecu.


Based on my overseas experience with half cuts transpants, the dash and stuffs are also transplanted over, engine, ECU, dash, signal stalks, steering, etc... everything from the halfcut is moved over to the car.

Some halfcut doesnt comes with steering wheel, as the wreckers sold it off already.