View Full Version : Project from wreck to vtec
Hey guys, i've recently bought an ED3 with BHG off a forum member. His name is George, sorry i can't remember the user name. Im planning on doing some work on it to make it run and fun to drive & get some hands on experience. I'll be doing all the work myself.
So far the plans include:
d16y1 conversion
EFI conversion
manual conversion
p28 ECU
da9 disk brake upgrade
da9 sway bars
da9 brake cylinder/proportioning valve/booster upgrade
custom exhaust
DIY airbox/cold air intake
the outside i'll most likely leave stock for a more sleeper look. Its got a few dents in it and stuff but that would just add to the image. The body itself is pretty straight. I'll update some more info and pictures at a later stage.
tseesinngwailo
31-03-2010, 01:46 PM
Awesome, see Peter (jdmb16a)and MarkusMaximus's threads, they have already done the most amazing things along these lines, you will find everything you need in there!
Look forward to seeing another build progress!
Cheers, i have read peter's thread, it does cover his work in great depth. I've also seen a few other ED build threads around. I will no doubt be using them as a guide. I have considered restoring the ED the same way Peter has, however then i would be worried about leaving my car everywhere, as i am now with my other car. Hence, coming to a conclusion i will be leaving the outside stock, and working on the engine/suspension, as i need my cars to handle well even for daily driving.
markismaximus
31-03-2010, 02:54 PM
Haha building EDs must be contagious. If you do a build thread please change the thread title. It's a little too similar to mine. Cheers
tseesinngwailo
31-03-2010, 03:10 PM
Just give it a name, Peters is Blue Streak, I think MArkisMaximus's is silver, so that can be Silver Bullet haha, i cant see pics at work, so can't think of a name until I see the colour :)
Makes me sad in a way I got rid of my ED, but at least the car drove away under it's own D15B injected power.., but thats OK, once the move to a new house happens around the end of the year, I will be doing an S600 restore, and it's either gonna be White, or Red.
Maybe we need a new category on Ozhonda, the ED build one??
This one had to be towed :( had to get a trailer and use the winch to put it on. Plus the tyres were deflated to 12 psi so it wasn't that easy to push. I pumped them up on the way home and now its easy to push around.
Also tried to make a build thread, but couldn't post there for some reason. So i'll just continue on here.
Alright so it started with me being sick of my old white civic sitting in the drive way for the last 2 years. It had a front end accident, i wasn't at fault, but the guy who i hit refused to pay and at the time i was a few weeks out of insurance. So for me to get my money i would have to drag it through court, and having done alot of work at the courts i know what it costs, meaning I had to cut my losses.
Anyways, i had to borrow a car trailer as chances were the car i would be buying wouldn't be drivable/out of rego. The first one i had a look at ran, but had shitloads of rust and body damage.
The second was alot better body wise. It didn't run, but thats why i had the trailer. Loaded it up and was a big drive home (about 2 hours). I was carefull with the trailer, but not having much experience with towing it took a bit of getting used to. Taking corners wide, gear down to slow as breaking alone wasn't adequate. The worst thing was going down the hill! Got death wobbles once haha had to drop it down a gear and speed up down the hill to pull it straight.
Here's the tow rig i used and the 'new' car.
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/8682/13032010259h.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/i/13032010259h.jpg/)
http://img340.imageshack.us/img340/5662/14032010261.jpg (http://img340.imageshack.us/i/14032010261.jpg/)
bit of a bump:
http://img517.imageshack.us/img517/1223/14032010262d.jpg (http://img517.imageshack.us/i/14032010262d.jpg/)
Here's the inside:
http://img151.imageshack.us/img151/9953/14032010264.jpg (http://img151.imageshack.us/i/14032010264.jpg/)
its not pretty, but the one in my donor car is damn near perfect.
Standard shit under the hood
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/3861/20032010270.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/20032010270.jpg/)
And here's the donor car:
http://img229.imageshack.us/img229/5949/14032010263.jpg (http://img229.imageshack.us/i/14032010263.jpg/)
pretty dirty under the hood. Went on about cleaning up the front abit
http://img362.imageshack.us/img362/4765/20032010271.jpg (http://img362.imageshack.us/i/20032010271.jpg/)
In the mean time, here's the daily im driving around lol:
http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/4864/dscf0725.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/dscf0725.jpg/)
m.o.d.aus
31-03-2010, 11:11 PM
LOL whats with supra drivers owning honda's ? haha
Your deffinately heading on the right track!
And from your plans should be an awesome daily.
JUst hope you don't 'rice' it out like the while one in the back ground :p haha
PS. Nice supra :D
lol we were all young once haha. Nuh with the new one im going for more of a sleeper look, im even thinking it looks better with the faded paint and dents :)
cheers!
m.o.d.aus
01-04-2010, 10:32 PM
True true, i'm still young so i got that as a cover haha.
Sleeper ftw! Plus the low attention means that you shouldn't have to worry too much about it being stolen or the like.
Good luck, wish i could follow the current trend of ED resto's :D just dont have to cash :(
Opened up the sump to drain the oil, some nasty shit came out.
http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2066/fluidsoutoftheengine.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/fluidsoutoftheengine.jpg/)
Then started removing everything i could see that was stopping me from pulling the engine out. Some of the bolts were rusted to the body, i wrecked a T-wrench trying to undo them.
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8807/wreckedtranch.jpg (http://img638.imageshack.us/i/wreckedtranch.jpg/)
Off to bunnings to get a nice Sidchrome 1/2" drive breaker bar, extension bar & various adapters. Thought it was time to get myself a nice set of tools.
http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/8397/brandnewsidchromeandext.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/brandnewsidchromeandext.jpg/)
Also bought an engine lift/hoist. Had a bit of fun putting the thing together.
Pic of the engine, almost ready to be pulled out.
http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/8964/enginereadytobepulledou.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/enginereadytobepulledou.jpg/)
I removed the drive shafts and had transmission oil go everywhere. Just letting you guys know be prepared for it haha. I pulled the drive shafts out and then put all the rest of the suspension together. I need to drop the car back off the stands as i need to hose out the engine bay after the engine is out, and then the garage as there is oil everywhere. I've laid down some plastic, but it seemed to have gotten under and its been carried around on the shoes.
Also started stripping the interior. Had a bit of a guess about removing the steering wheel, there were 4 bolts on the back side. I put a camera there and took photos to see what it looked like and then had to get a long thin screw driver and feel out the bolts to undo them. Also found undoing the auto shifter cable bit tricky. In the end, all i had to do was with the shifter apart was to unscrew it.
Also took out the whole dash out. I didn't like the look of the early model civic dash with the emergency lights on the steering stork, im gonna pull out the dash and seats out of the white (91) civic and put them in.
Here's the interior:
http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/6889/carpetstripped.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/carpetstripped.jpg/)
Also in 2 minds about the body work, not sure if i should be fixing it all ground up like Peter's build, or leave it as is. I've always wanted a sleeper, however that kinda hard to achieve with my other car (supra). With this i could actually pull it off. Or i can restore it so it looks alot better. I was originally thinking light blue, but since Peter has beat me to the punch, i was thinking of dark/midnight purple. Something that seems subtle, yet when you take a closer look you can appreciate it more. Vote as i would like opinions!
jdm_b16a
04-04-2010, 09:07 PM
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/8807/wreckedtranch.jpg (http://img638.imageshack.us/i/wreckedtranch.jpg/)
You're a worry Val!
At least you learnt quickly and got yourself some decent tools.
And, yeah, ED6 Rebuild Rule#2: Always drain the gearbox before removing the driveshafts.
This follows ED6 Rebuild Rule #1 (as Dave told us in his thread): Always crack the axle nuts when the car is still on the ground.
There will be lots of rusted nuts & bolts to deal with before you're finished.
Good luck. We are watching! :thumbsup:
Peter
jdm_b16a
04-04-2010, 09:09 PM
I was thinking of dark/midnight purple.
Yeah, that's a real sleeper colour on an ED6. Sleeper is silver, white or pewter grey.
Peter
dougie_504
04-04-2010, 09:38 PM
Looking good. Can I ask why you picked D16Y1?
Yeah, that's a real sleeper colour on an ED6. Sleeper is silver, white or pewter grey.
Peter
Yeah if i repaint the car it won't be a sleeper at all.
Looking good. Can I ask why you picked D16Y1?
Because i had an ED3 with a d16y1 sitting in the driveway. Originally, a couple of years ago i had the d16 put in as it was meant to be done on a budget, so that i could keep the gearbox and just swap the engine. If money was no object, i'd love to have a b18c or a k20a(not sure if these would fit??) in it.
dougie_504
05-04-2010, 11:53 AM
Yeah I reckon B series would rock but there's a huge price jump for sure. I was just asking because I have a D16Y1 Civic and from my personal opinion I don't think it's a powerful or high-potential engine and I thought even a D16A8/ZC would be better for making power.
androo
05-04-2010, 12:39 PM
I reckon you should paint it but paint it a stock colour. It looks too banged up atm, but painting it purple would look really 'try hard' TBH sorry if that sounds mean.
OR spend that money on the engine! << My choice.
Good luck on your build. Love to Supra. And love where this is going!
dougie_504
05-04-2010, 01:03 PM
Just give it a coat of house paint, my family mechanic did that because he's a simple kind of bloke and it actually looks fine for an imperfect but mechanically sound example lol
is something like this too out there? I know it looks different because its got a kit. (im talking about the colour!)
http://img265.imageshack.us/img265/654/13919314.jpg (http://img265.imageshack.us/i/13919314.jpg/)
Not too sure about all the stock ed colours, haven't seen something that i really like other then the white and black. And i've already got a black car, so does my dad and most of my friends so black is out. But im looking at colours outside honda, i mean most people don't know what standard colours honda civics come in.
And about the engine choice, this is about me building something fun to drive. Its not for all out power or racing quarter mile, if i was gonna build a car for that i wouldn't be using the civic but a rwd or 4wd based car. Eg supra. Plus there is more aftermarket support for the SOHC engines in D series.
This is more about me learning things for myself and getting experience. Sure i could go and take both cars to a workshop and pay them to get the work done like i did with the white sedan originally, but then i would be none the wiser and the conversion might not have been done the way i wanted it to be.
In the future if i get bored i might chuck on a t28 off a skyline or a silvia on it.
DaveXR8
05-04-2010, 03:46 PM
Sweet! Another ED build.
It looks like it becoming contagious.
Looking forward to how this progresses Val. ^_^
jdm_b16a
05-04-2010, 04:17 PM
... about the engine choice, this is about me building something fun to drive. Its not for all out power or racing quarter mile...
You are on the money there. Good to see a sensible approach rather than a "look at my B Series" approach (but there is nothing wrong with that of course as the B16A is one of the best performance engines ever built).
The D16Y1 is a SOHC VTEC with 96kW from the factory. Add a nice exhaust and you should get over 100kW. More than enough power without attracting too much attention and spending bucketloads of $$$$
This is more about me learning things for myself and getting experience. Sure i could go and take both cars to a workshop and pay them to get the work done like i did with the white sedan originally, but then i would be none the wiser and the conversion might not have been done the way i wanted it to be.
Again, I applaud this approach. Doing a conversion is about learning stuff about your Honda and how it is put together. This enables you to better service it later and diagnose faults. Always look to learn about your car and look after it, and it will look after you.
Peter
markismaximus
05-04-2010, 04:25 PM
This is more about me learning things for myself and getting experience. Sure i could go and take both cars to a workshop and pay them to get the work done like i did with the white sedan originally, but then i would be none the wiser and the conversion might not have been done the way i wanted it to be.
Well said. This was one of the reasons I also chose to keep it low budget too, more about learning about my ED. And by the end of this you will, I'm pretty sure there isn't one thing I couldn't remove, fix, or replace on my ED ;) good luck with it
Henessaayyy
05-04-2010, 04:55 PM
why not go b16 or b18 ?
sohc vtec will get boring man :P
markismaximus
05-04-2010, 05:03 PM
why not go b16 or b18 ?
sohc vtec will get boring man :P
And about the engine choice, this is about me building something fun to drive. Its not for all out power or racing quarter mile, if i was gonna build a car for that i wouldn't be using the civic but a rwd or 4wd based car. Eg supra.
This is more about me learning things for myself and getting experience.
he's already answered your question. just gotta read the posts
Henessaayyy
05-04-2010, 05:13 PM
and you've justified what exactly?
he can still learn from a b-series and he can still build something fun to drive... atleast in a b18 it'll be ALOT more fun to drive.
markismaximus
05-04-2010, 05:30 PM
I didn't need to justify anything.
Also isn't there already a shit-fight B-series D-series thread
and you've justified what exactly?
he can still learn from a b-series and he can still build something fun to drive... atleast in a b18 it'll be ALOT more fun to drive.
Because of cost. Just like i could say why go a B when you can go a K? It would be even more fun. True. But not cost effective. I've already had a car with a d16 sitting in the driveway, the car im building now cost me $300. If i was to go out and buy B series shit it would be a few grand, plus im still stuck with a d16 in the driveway thats not going anywhere.
It still goes further, as im doing this to learn and somehow end up stuffing up the g/box or the engine i can replace them cheap, where as with the b series its more of an investment, and with a K its more of a loan.
Henessaayyy
05-04-2010, 08:15 PM
Valid points. I understand where you're coming from, suppose I'm in the same situation, 'budget' wise. Well really, as long as you're happy with it. Sorry to be a party pooper. Some people just don't understand some things :P
dougie_504
05-04-2010, 09:02 PM
Props to you OP. Personally I love my D16Y1 even if it isn't as tough as my B16A. I am quite affectionate with the D-series, there's something to be respected about the underdog engine :)
markismaximus
06-04-2010, 01:01 PM
Just thought I would also throw this out there for everyone asking why not do a B swap. Comparing B16A equipped VTiR coupe and a ED civic hatch with D16Y1. The power to weight ratios of both vehicles are almost identical. All data taken from honda.com.au
VTiR Coupe B16A. 118kw@7600rpm, 150nm@7000. Vehicle weight: 1114kg. Power to weight of 0.1059kw / kg
ED Civic Hatch with D16Y1. 96kw@6600, 145nm@5200. Vehicle weight: 900kg. Power to weight of 0.1067kw / kg
So the ED actually has a better power to weight ratio than the VtiR, if only just. Also given the D16 makes peak power and torque at 1000rpm and 1800rpm lower it might not be as slow as people would first think. I know this is all theoretical and its more than just power that makes a car fast but just something to think about.
Did some work over the Easter long weekend.
Pulled the engine out, put the wheels & bonnet back on car was a rolling shell pretty much. I rolled out both cars from my driveway and then cleaned up the garage from all the grease and rubbish that has been collecting there. Also i replaced the plastic sheets i had on the ground and laid new ones.
Then i cleaned up the engine bay in the red civic from the grease and dirt that got in there. Also took off the panels on the sides of the car, rear seats, rear seat belts, etc. It appears that the rear passenger side window has been smashed, as there was glass everywhere right under the panel. I cleaned up the inside of the car aswell. Also plenty of ciggy butts, as i non-smoker that really disgusts me.
now for the piccies:
http://img515.imageshack.us/img515/395/pullthatshitout.jpg
http://img7.imageshack.us/img7/599/betterchainrouting.jpg
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/2091/shitengine2.jpg
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/4844/hosesremovedpipestaped.jpg
pic of the white car again, removed some of the parts at the front & cleaned up dirt, leaves and other crap thats gotten there during the last 2 years.
http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/2305/whiteyz.jpg
pic of the red car, 4wd mode!
http://img444.imageshack.us/img444/5592/4wdmode.jpg
must say this is pretty light now, i pushed this thing myself up the driveway with a mate inside steering from the floor as the seats are out haha
Been away and very busy lately. Did a little bit of work today, trying to clean out the engine bay as much by removing anything i can. Im thinking i will sand it down and spray it before i start on anything else. I ran into a problem though, i've undone 1 bolt from the hardlines for the brakes, however every single other bolt is rusted to the connections :( i tried un-doing them, but the spanner just take off an edge of the bolt and comes off. Now i need some ideas on what i can do about it.
I though use a dremmel to cut off at the hardline ends, then used a flaring tool and replace the screw in bolts, considering i plan on using the DA9 BC and booster.
Anyone got a flaring tool i could borrow just for a few hours?
vtecing
17-04-2010, 11:24 PM
i bet the supra will always be the daily. the civic will end up being some kind of track monster
markismaximus
18-04-2010, 07:42 AM
Been away and very busy lately. Did a little bit of work today, trying to clean out the engine bay as much by removing anything i can. Im thinking i will sand it down and spray it before i start on anything else. I ran into a problem though, i've undone 1 bolt from the hardlines for the brakes, however every single other bolt is rusted to the connections :( i tried un-doing them, but the spanner just take off an edge of the bolt and comes off. Now i need some ideas on what i can do about it.
I though use a dremmel to cut off at the hardline ends, then used a flaring tool and replace the screw in bolts, considering i plan on using the DA9 BC and booster.
Anyone got a flaring tool i could borrow just for a few hours?
were you using an open ended spanner? if so that tends to happen (corner rounding off). Invest in some flare nut spanners and that will stop happening. Ummmm once they are rounded off the best bet that I know of to remove them from the brake component is with vice grips. Its gonna screw the flare nut but as you've said they are already screwed.
Flare nut spanner ref image:
http://hit-corona.com.pl/images/narzedzia/80847b7a3f1619fae796e8efd0ef15cf.jpg
i bet the supra will always be the daily. the civic will end up being some kind of track monster
What i see happening is that they both might become track monsters haha.
were you using an open ended spanner? if so that tends to happen (corner rounding off). Invest in some flare nut spanners and that will stop happening. Ummmm once they are rounded off the best bet that I know of to remove them from the brake component is with vice grips. Its gonna screw the flare nut but as you've said they are already screwed.
Flare nut spanner ref image:
Thank man. I haven't seen these things before, i might check bunnings today for some of these bad boys.
grifty
18-04-2010, 04:56 PM
there sometimes called pipe spanners aswell :)
picked up a set at SCA today. Went it to get more car stands, but they were sold out. Bastards. I paid the full $60 for a set few weeks ago, now they go on sale for $20 each.
These spanners work well, already used them on to remove rear brake lines. Did my first actual mod today, rear disc conversion from a DA9. Pics up later.
Here's something i picked up on the weekend:
CRV manual cluster
http://img14.imageshack.us/img14/2659/18042010341.jpg
DA9 front and rear disk brakes
http://img24.imageshack.us/img24/7028/18042010342.jpg
And had the chance to pull these out
http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/5531/18042010344.jpg
and put these in
http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/4390/18042010345.jpg
Also gave the wheel well a clean. The disks are rusty, but they will clean up as soon as i take the car for a drive.
Also these are some of the brake bolts still in the brake lines. I can use these with the new brake master and booster cylinders and proportioning valve. Ill track down some more, i also picked up a pipe flaring kit so i can cut out the stuffed bolts and replace with new bolts and flare the lines and connect them up. I can use the lines running to the front brakes from my ED3, but the rears i'll have to flare out and replace the bolts as the lines are way too long and the ones from the sedan wouldn't match the hatch.
http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/8214/18042010343.jpg
DaveXR8
18-04-2010, 08:20 PM
picked up a set at SCA today. Went it to get more car stands, but they were sold out. Bastards. I paid the full $60 for a set few weeks ago, now they go on sale for $20 each.
These spanners work well, already used them on to remove rear brake lines. Did my first actual mod today, rear disc conversion from a DA9. Pics up later.
How much was the set Val? Need to grab a set myself.
Doing the rear brake conversion on my ED hopefully sometime this week ^_^
Dave the kit was $15.29 . Its metric, you get 10-12; 13-14; 15-17 spanners from memory.
Im also trying to think ahead for the best job, the wiring. My ED3 had a d16 running of a p28, and the rest of the car/cabin was still connected to the standard ECU. I would like to avoid using 2 ECU's, and have everything wired into the p28. Looking at other build threads, it looks like i would be better off to go with a full EG Vti loom and swap plugs to make it run like Mark did, compared to trying to splice in ED cabin harness into the EG Vti.
DaveXR8
19-04-2010, 01:33 PM
Im dreading the wiring as well.
I will most likely use the full wiring loom from the DA and change whatever plugs needed.
jdm_b16a
19-04-2010, 03:54 PM
... compared to trying to splice in ED cabin harness into the EG Vti one like Peter did.
Peter didn't do that.
I used the VTi ECU with full VTi engine harness, and full EG6 cabin harness. The only splicing was to join the rear loom (controlling the rear lights, hatch open, etc) to the EG6 loom. I've still gone that route but used a new loom and connecting plug halfway along the side of the car. My problems all stem from the original importer cutting some of the crucial plugs off around the fuse box and on the passenger side, because they were too lazy to remove them from the Jap spec Civic the loom came out of. Given that wiring information is almost non-existent for both Aus and JDM delivered cars (in a readable format by a non-electrician) it makes the job of identifying wires and their functions damn near impossible. The only way to do it, as Markis has done, is to get a FULL , UNCUT VTi harness and use it (because the Vti D16 harness is the same as the B16A JDM EG6 harness, plug for plug.
Peter
PS. Dave, you won't have any issues.
Peter didn't do that.
Sorry, my mistake.
Ok so to make it clear, i need to get a complete uncut harness from either an EG Vti or Vti-R?
Also, pics are up on the above post.
dougie_504
21-04-2010, 11:20 AM
EG VTi will be easy, lots of D16Y1's around on the market.
markismaximus
21-04-2010, 11:24 AM
Sorry, my mistake.
Ok so to make it clear, i need to get a complete uncut harness from either an EG Vti or Vti-R?
Also, pics are up on the above post.
Its unlikely you'll find an uncut EG B16A JDM harness as most if not all would come in as half-cuts. So yes a full EG VTi harness would be the ideal harness to use.
mocchi
21-04-2010, 11:24 AM
paint it will oem color! i think you made a good decision regarding the engine val.
paint it will oem color! i think you made a good decision regarding the engine val.
I've been thinking about this lately. I've decided i will redo what is needed in the same OEM red colour, and to save money i'll leave the panels that are in decent nick as they are. That way im still fixing up the dents and shit, while i will not be re-doing the whole car. Also means i'll have to put up with the red colour!
jdm_b16a
21-04-2010, 12:17 PM
I've been thinking about this lately. I've decided i will redo what is needed in the same OEM red colour, and to save money i'll leave the panels that are in decent nick as they are. That way im still fixing up the dents and shit, while i will not be re-doing the whole car. Also means i'll have to put up with the red colour!
You will, however, save time and money with this approach. Sensible!
Peter
Just a quick update, i just got a full wiring loom for an eg vti, so i can finally start putting that in. I've also removed fuel tanks from both cars and and the problem is that they connect to the fuel hole in different places. I will either try to adapt the sedan fuel tank into the hb or just swap across the external pump and the hoses. The sedan fuel tank is also in better shape with hardly any rust on it so thats the reason im looking at adapting it to the hb.
Also, i've cut the bolts off the brake lines and used a flaring kit that i got from SCA to redo the brake connections. I've installed the 4040 proportioning valve. Problem i found is that the ECU is a p29, which is for a si/twin cam non-vtec, so i gotta get hold of a p28 or a p30 ECU now. P28 might be the cheaper option.
In the mean time i will try to do the fuel tank and put in the harness at least to the firewall. Seems it would be easier to do before putting the engine in.
markismaximus
04-08-2010, 01:22 PM
I've also removed fuel tanks from both cars and and the problem is that they connect to the fuel hole in different places.
as in the filler pipes do not match up???? or do the straps that hold the tank not line up? I've never had a hatch vs sedan tank side by side but I find that very very odd that they are different
SlobberGoat
04-08-2010, 02:23 PM
Where was your donor car from? (definately not an aussie car.. as they're all D15B4's iirc)
markismaximus
04-08-2010, 02:33 PM
Where was your donor car from? (definately not an aussie car.. as they're all D15B4's iirc)
donor was an aussie ED, but had been converted (badly) to D16Y1
as in the filler pipes do not match up???? or do the straps that hold the tank not line up? I've never had a hatch vs sedan tank side by side but I find that very very odd that they are different
The filler pipes. On the hatch the filler pipe comes into the tank at the front passenger side, on the sedan the filler pipe joins to the tank at the rear passenger side.
Where was your donor car from? (definately not an aussie car.. as they're all D15B4's iirc)
donor was an aussie ED, but had been converted (badly) to D16Y1
What he said. Came to me getting my car out of the workshop by going to the MTA, then they told me to go to department of fair trading, been there a few times and as we all know no tribunal or government agency is fast acting.
jdm_b16a
06-08-2010, 07:51 AM
Came to me getting my car out of the workshop by going to the MTA, then they told me to go to department of fair trading, been there a few times and as we all know no tribunal or government agency is fast acting.
Not sure what's going on here. Could you elaborate?
If you are in Sydney (especially Western Suburbs) PM your details and I can come and help you sort the wiring. I've had a little bit of experience with wiring up the D16Y1 in an ED. (ROFL)
Peter
Not sure what's going on here. Could you elaborate?
If you are in Sydney (especially Western Suburbs) PM your details and I can come and help you sort the wiring. I've had a little bit of experience with wiring up the D16Y1 in an ED. (ROFL)
Peter
Had alot of problems with a workshop a few years back, probably around 3 years ago, so when they did the d16 conversion into my white ED sedan they bodged it up. End result was that i finally got the car back, it was running with the d16, but it was running rich and i didn't have vtec. Then only about 3 months after i got the car some idiot pulled out in front of me and smashed the car up, hence its current state as per the first few pics in this thread. He had alcohol in his system, his insurance company refused to pay and he's only 18, so even going to court would cost me more then the car's worth with no guarantee of getting anything back at all. So its been sitting on my driveway for the last year or 2.
I am in Sutherland shire. Not sure if you're willing to go there lol but thanks for the offer! I might take you up on that at a later stage. I've compared the 2 wiring looms side by side, from whats in the engine bay i don't think a single plug is common, other then the brake cylinder with just the 2 wires lol And as you said before in your thread Peter, green wire is almost everywhere lol
I realised i am still missing:
-> Fuse boxes, im guessing EG would have one in the engine bay and another in cabin? Don't know if the Vti harness can be adapted to use the ED fuse boxes?
-> Electric VSS, i know i can track one down at the wreckers, but i haven't had time to look as yet, but if anyone has one lying around let me know
-> I got a CRV gauge cluster, however no plugs at the back.
I also have a feeling the engine mounts used the car are wrong, as they don't seem to be sitting straight. That, and they also look shot. Need to get a decent set, i remember in Peter's thread he mentions which ones i need, gotta refresh my memory.
jdm_b16a
06-08-2010, 02:20 PM
^^^^ Wow, what a story!
You can get any fusebox from an EFI Civic 1992 onwards, but try to get the 1992-1995 one. They are all the same and easily obtained for a few dollars at wreckers like Pick'n'Payless.
There are basically three harness:
1. The engine harness - literally on the engine. Connects to the cabin harness at the shocktowers.
2. The cabin harness, which includes the underdash wiring, both doors, the cluster and A/C etc. Driver's side runs out all the way to the lights and radiator, passenger side goes from ECU in the passenger footwell to the under hood fusebox (also obtainable from 1992-1995 EG EFi) and out to the lights and A/C radiator.
3. The rear harness that has the EFI stuff on it (fuel pump), the handbrake, door lights, rear interior light, wiper and taillights. It joins to the cabin harness at the driver's rear wheel arch and then on the fusebox under the dash.
You can get them all from an EG but you have the added job of retrofitting VTEC and some other options only found on the EFI model so the best bet is to find a wrecked VTi like markismaximus and I did, and transfer everything from there. That is the easy way if you don't know electronics or have an auto electrician friend.
VSS is easy to find also. Any EFI Civic 1992 onwards, but again, try and get a 1992-1995. You need the VSS to assist in triggering VTEC (which requires good oil pressure, VTEC solenoid, and RPM to activate).
CRV cluster is W-I-N but you can also use the plugs off an EK. I have a set here if you want them, unless you are lucky enough to find a set at the wreckers (which does happen). Let me know.
Don't take my thread as GOSPEL. Look at markismaximus' thread - he is more cluey on mounts and stuff. His setup uses all the original D15 mounts (if I remember correctly) whereas I used a combo set on the passenger side (non-gearbox side).
Peter
markismaximus
06-08-2010, 08:25 PM
Don't take my thread as GOSPEL. Look at markismaximus' thread - he is more cluey on mounts and stuff. His setup uses all the original D15 mounts (if I remember correctly) whereas I used a combo set on the passenger side (non-gearbox side).
Peter
That is correct Peter, I used ALL of the mounts off my D15. I had to replace the front gearbox mount that was torn. I used non-genuine as it was cheaper but the fitment quality was very very average. The timing side mount is slightly angled though, I believe you mentioned this is the case on your build too.
EK1 Civic
06-08-2010, 09:40 PM
Like the approach your going with the d16y1. Don't get why people bother saying why not drop a b18. You got a supra, the fk would be the point of putting in a b18. I know this is a honda forum and people will argue go b18 etc, but still you got a supra that in n/a and TT spec is faster then the b18. I'd prob turn the ed into a daily to save fuel, my mates got an n/a supra and it still drinks a fair bit, then use the supra for a weekend car xD. Good luck with the build :D
yeah thats the idea mate, civic for some fun and fuel efficiency! I love the supra, mine is a TT, and even though it pretty quick, the engine still feels lazy. I miss being able to rev the old civ :(
EK1 Civic
11-08-2010, 01:46 PM
they rev but dont go anywhere. Love that expression, well unless you go for a quicker engine. Your approach is sensible though, no point putting money down the drain, the TT fuel efficiency will out way cost of engine swap.
TT fuel efficiency depends on the weight of the foot on the gas pedal lol
EK1 Civic
11-08-2010, 05:17 PM
Well ye if u take it easy but if u compare it to a 4 cylinder the 4 cylinder would run outa gas further down the road then the v6 tt =/
Its a straight 6 TT, but yeah i know what you mean. On the highway its about the same, i used to get about 600km a 40L tank on my ed, and its about 600km on a 70L tank on the supra. 218rwkw & 550nm of torque sure is a fun way of getting to work and from work though :p
jdm_b16a
12-08-2010, 10:59 AM
Its a straight 6 TT, but yeah i know what you mean. On the highway its about the same, i used to get about 600km a 40L tank on my ed, and its about 600km on a 70L tank on the supra. 218rwkw & 550nm of torque sure is a fun way of getting to work and from work though :p
Tell me about it. My Aristo (or four door Supra TT for those that don't know) drinks like a fish - you can actually see the fuel needle go down as you drive. I've got an 80L tank and about 600Km 'round town is average.
Peter
Ok here's a picture for comparison of the filler pipes for hatch / sedan tanks.
16164
End result - couldn't use the sedan fuel tank, the hatch tank had plenty of rust so had to clean it down to metal and re-paint.
16165
16166
Also - swapped the springs over from the sedan shocks to the hb, coilover sleeves. Damn sedan looks like its in 4wd mode now lol
16167
And thats where im at now. Small update, but i only had weekends to work on this as im away for most of the week out of Sydney.
Update: I've put in the front shocks aswell. Also the fuel tank and pump have all been put in and hooked up.
Pulled out the OEM harness and put in the main part of the Vti harness. Turned out i didn't get the rear harness when i purchased it, even though i asked if it was a complete harness, turned out there was a misunderstanding so i went to pick'n'payless for my first time and got that from a carby eg (don't need fuel pump connection as mine is external) as well as DA9 sway bars and already fitted the front. Have to drill holes for the rear sway. Also got dash/cluster harnesses (non-vti :( ) and fuseboxes (one under the bonnet and the other under the dash from a Vti).
The engine is out (D16), pulled the gearbox off and looking at replacing the clutch. The clutch is a 20 spline version. Looking at an exedy replacement, HD or HDCB & have to get the flywheel machined.
Been doing some cleaning up, i've cut the rust out of one of the guards and repainted cross members in black.
pulled the clutch off, took off the flywheel - picking up new clutch tomorrow and getting the flywheel machined. Flywheel was a bit of a shrew, but i won in the end.
mugen_ctr
21-10-2010, 07:10 PM
Like the approach your going with the d16y1. Don't get why people bother saying why not drop a b18. You got a supra, the fk would be the point of putting in a b18. I know this is a honda forum and people will argue go b18 etc, but still you got a supra that in n/a and TT spec is faster then the b18. I'd prob turn the ed into a daily to save fuel, my mates got an n/a supra and it still drinks a fair bit, then use the supra for a weekend car xD. Good luck with the build :D
Your opinion will change when u see a b18 swap eg keep up with a rx7 for that matter :).... just tryna say dont doubt those lil b18 powered civics, since u already got the supra car, keep the civic as daily... d-series ftw :D
Would that be a stock rx7? because the opinion might change when you see a gt35/40 or t04z on an rx7 or supra :P in the end though, they would all be going the same speed in peak hour traffic. When building a car you have to first set out what it will be used for. Sure, a b18 ed would be more fun to drive then a d16, but a k20 would be even better. And while that's out of the price range for a daily, does that mean that an engine swap is unaffordable?
D16 is enough to have some fun on the road, while still being good on the fuel. Sway bars and disk brakes are going on it because i can't stand driving a car that doesn't have any handling at all. More so, i want a car thats easy to drive and can be done with a hangover, and something i won't get into trouble easy with. Supra will more then likely end up as a weekend/track car, always wanted a t51 on it. And also planning on getting a bike once im on off my P's, looking at a Fireblade - another toy i don't want to take out in the rain.
But i ended up getting a brand new flywheel, clutch & pressure plate from the US since the $ is cheap. Had some trouble with the flywheel bolts, turned out to be standard bolts that have been cut, only about the .75 of a cm into the thread, and when i tried to torque them the thread striped. Honda wanted $66 for 6 bolts with 2 weeks wait, so i got some ARP bolts off the shelf from a supplier in west Sydney for $55. SO i got the flywheel, clutch and pressure plate installed, then cleaned up the gearbox and connected it up to the engine.
Then i cleaned up the engine on the outside from the grease and dirt and put it into the red hatchback. Then installed the pedals, connected the clutch through the hole i made in the firewall that mimiced the clutch hole on the donor ED, put in the DA master cylinder and connected that to the brake pedal. Connected the fuel lines, and now working to figure out the heater hoses and so on, as well as the wiring. I've gotten the under-dash fusebox diagram so i could put in some fuses, now to put in all the connections and wire in the ignition.
Been bugging Peter aka jdm_b16a with the swap queries haha he's been a great help!
http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/7476/04112010559f.th.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/i/04112010559f.jpg/)
http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/272/04112010558.th.jpg (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/04112010558.jpg/)
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9617/03112010557.th.jpg (http://img403.imageshack.us/i/03112010557.jpg/)
http://img704.imageshack.us/img704/5012/04112010560.th.jpg (http://img704.imageshack.us/i/04112010560.jpg/)
GSi_PSi
16-11-2010, 04:35 PM
lots of people that mock vtec or downplay it i have found usually have never been in a B18,B20,K20,K24 swapped car
yeah im one of them. Someone take me for a spin...
Fuseboxes done, ignition switch wired up, ECU connected, got cluster wiring grafted onto the harness, cluster seems to work so far. Got the fluids (engine oil, gb oil, fuel, etc) in and tried starting - the engine cranks over however not firing :( Got no spark! No spark coming out of the leads. There are no error codes thrown from the computer, so im thinking its to do with the wiring. Gotta dig up the multimeter and get checking.
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/3194/10112010.th.jpg (http://img20.imageshack.us/i/10112010.jpg/)
http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/8665/12112010008.th.jpg (http://img695.imageshack.us/i/12112010008.jpg/)
ekfour97
24-11-2010, 09:49 AM
yeah im one of them. Someone take me for a spin...
i would and then you want a b18 .... good read mate look forward to seeing more
Checked all wires for voltage & continuity as per the manual, seems all good except for the resistance on the igniter coil is a bit high between the +ve and the -ve terminal. Plus manual said that if all tests come up ok to replace the igniter coil, so that will be my next step.
Ran into a problem too as i pulled a charged battery from another car, and by the time i finished checking everything it died and the other car is an auto :( Felt pretty embarrassing asking the neighbors for a boost and wires too haha but oh well.
Been a bit distracted playing with this lol
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/2092/23102010551.th.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/i/23102010551.jpg/)
http://img404.imageshack.us/img404/3794/26102010552.th.jpg (http://img404.imageshack.us/i/26102010552.jpg/)
http://img574.imageshack.us/img574/8889/26102010553.th.jpg (http://img574.imageshack.us/i/26102010553.jpg/)
But i got the new ignitor and still no start. I'll test for spark again and maybe get a new dizzy then, not sure what it can be :S
Ok so i redone all the tests from the manual with the new ignitor, all the voltages are as should be, bat on the 2 terminals of the ignitor, slightly less on the coil end. Tested the dizzy cap for continuity and thats sport on. Same with each of the terminals. Still no spark though :( So im thinking now that its a problem with the connection between the thing spinning inside the dizzy and all 4 of the terminals.
Also, as i have the CRV cluster connected up and running i've put in 2 full cans of petrol, and the level is still below empty. Im thinking if this might be effecting something, like a failsafe. Also, i noticed both clutch and brake pedals have connectors on top, i don't have either connected yet.
Best thing to test at this moment would be to sub in another complete working dizzy, can someone let me know if they have a spare working dizzy lying around or one they can lend me for a day so i can test??
markismaximus
26-12-2010, 04:58 PM
Also, i noticed both clutch and brake pedals have connectors on top, i don't have either connected yet.
Hey Val,
the switch on the brake is connected to the brake light circuit..... push brake pedal, lights come on.
switch on clutch is a safety measure when starting, clutch needs to be pushed in for car to start.
HOWEVER, in saying that my ED (and most likely all of them) have a plastic grommet that deteriorates and falls out over time. So the switch is always "on" when starting the car. So that switch probably hasn't been functional for some time I would say.
what wiring diagrams are you using for connecting all this up?
Hey Mark,
Thanks for this, i will check it out as i couldn't find what the connector clip for the clutch pedal, but remember seeing something in one of the manuals, just seeing if im going crazy though after going through countless websites and what not lol
Currently using a cd i got with ED, EG and EK repair manuals off ebay. They are Honda manuals that have been scanned in as PDF's. And use Peter's thread as a guide as well.
markismaximus
26-12-2010, 07:28 PM
I took that switch out when I did all my wiring, its not really required. If you are still using the ED underdash wiring you can just solder them together, if you're using an EG underdash harness there won't be a plug for the switch as I don't believe EGs have a clutch switch in AUDM models.
You can download those manuals for free from here: http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/. Or from http://www.spoonertuner.com/manuals
There is an ED6 specific wiring one, I used it when I did my swap as the EF manual I presume you have does have some slight variations from the ED6.
Yeah im converting everything in the car to an EG harness, including the underdash, with a CRV cluster as i got an electric VSS now.
Not sure which ED manual i have, but its ED as the cars are carby, EF is JDM and EFI only, right?
Another slight issue, i had a tarp in the car port covering 1 full side so that the rain doesn't get in. I had weights holding it down, my brother took them out and put a brick there, the stong wind pulled the tarp off and sent the brick through my rear window :(
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