whats better? Nulon 5w/40? nulon 5w/30? or castrol edge 5w/30

[Mr.PT]

whats better?
wanted wahst best for my civic

[androo]

Stock is 5W-30 so stick with it. Only go thicker if your car is wearing.

I don't know which is better though. I'm running EDGE and it seems pretty good. Some other guys are liking it on here too.

Check out this thread (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?t=130662) - just a quick one on someone who's happy with EDGE.

Might be some people here who use Nulon who can give you more info though.

Good luck!

[Mikecivic78]

I've used Nulon Full-synth 10w40 in my civic for the last 2 oil changes. I do it every 5,000km.

IMO it's the best viscosity for a Civic with Kms in the 1XX,XXXKM age bracket.

[Mr.PT]

my civic is 05 and only done about 34XXX now
i was gonan go nulon not sure yet

[Mikecivic78]

I've noticed that Nulon isn't that popular. It's hard to find reviews on the net.

So far so good, it doesn't consume any more oil than with FEO. I have no leaks and the engine purrs smoothly.

Nulon make some good cleaning products but they are not well known for oil.

[Mikecivic78]

Go the castrol, if you Civic only has 3X,XXXKm and '05 model, the Castrol 5W30 will be perfect.

[Mugen Civic]

i use Nulon Full synthetic 10w-40 the last two oil changes and it works fine.
tested it out on two track days too.

Was using mobile 1 previously.

[Limbo]

found the nulon better than the mobile 1?

I used mobile 1 5w50 and it seems to burn on the track.
using motul at the moment, but was gonna give the nulon a go


i use Nulon Full synthetic 10w-40 the last two oil changes and it works fine.
tested it out on two track days too.

Was using mobile 1 previously.

[Mugen Civic]

found the nulon better than the mobile 1?

I used mobile 1 5w50 and it seems to burn on the track.
using motul at the moment, but was gonna give the nulon a go

No i will not say its better, i'm just saying nulon is fine.
Anyways, Mobil 1 is the best fully synthetic oil because it is the only true Group IV oil thats readily available on Australian shelves. The next true fully synthetic oil is Amsoil which is harder to get here.

Nulon, castrol, shell, etc... claim to be fully synthetic but they are actually highly refined Group III oils. Castrol won the fight to call there oil fully synthetic through some loop hole.

So yea, alil lecture, but Mobil 1 top shelf stuff... comes with the price tag too.

[Limbo]

yeah nah, i pass on the mobil 1. Seems to burn in my car.

Motul, Reline & Royal purple are proper group iv synthetics.

From my understanding Mobil 1 is not even a true group 4. Not the AU ones anyway.
In the states it is group 4, but we get the crap stuff.

[gambate]

i've read from somewhere that says that Group IV oil needs some mineral oil in it to carry all those addictive and cleansing agent. its all in the blend ie. it could be 90% group IV + 10% group III. or 10% Group IV + 90% Group III which is hard to find out.
as long as the oils meets those european standard like VW 500 505 MB229.51 BMW Porsche etc etc. its good enough oil for my honda, as long as the viscosity is suitable.

[amant02]

today after a very tedious search for royal purple, i decided to settle for Valvoline Full syntenic, what the other posts say about the grades its best to use thinner oil if u you engine is fairly new. Best to use thicker grade oil's for older cars wit 1xx xxx mileage. I would also recommend a popular oil like Valvoline as 99% of the mechanics have the oil readily available so it saves time and if your stuck in the woop woop you know u can get your hands on some. Btw not good to mix oils, pick one and stick to it till you sell the car.


Also best to look up the owners manual whats the recommended grade and buy either that or better. (every mechanic should have this book)

[jim57a]

check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

V & E Rigoli tests different oils back to back on a mate's evo6

[androo]

That's a pretty cool video! Except (like some of the comments on the video) they moved the fan further back for some oils and put it closer for others. If they didn't do that it would have been an awesome test! I wish I had the money to do that test for my teg just for the fun of it haha

Stuff what some of the comments said about travelling a certain distance before doing the testing, etc. etc. Yes that would end with a more interesting result but with all testing, there are limits. People expect way too much!

[Mr.PT]

i guess nulon for its price. lucky i chose nulon oil over the catrol LOL

[CB7_OWNER]

was looking a youtube video the other day of the vtec club on best motoring international with DK Keiichii, and Spoon director ichisama .. he reackons engine oil is not that important, and the "jap spec" FEO oil is more than good enough for cars that see the track 2-3 times a year... On a more important note is the tranny oil.. He was saying how engine oil is passed through a filter, and is cleaned etc.. its treated.. Whereas tranny oil, just sit in the box.. and does just that...

He recommends changing the tranny oil every change of the engine oil.

Link is here http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3ATk8TIx_-Y&feature=related

[gambate]

afaik gearbox oil doesnt get contaminated by fuel and heat, all they get is metal debris, but that is taken care of with a magnet inside.

[Phased]

today after a very tedious search for royal purple, i decided to settle for Valvoline Full syntenic, what the other posts say about the grades its best to use thinner oil if u you engine is fairly new. Best to use thicker grade oil's for older cars wit 1xx xxx mileage. I would also recommend a popular oil like Valvoline as 99% of the mechanics have the oil readily available so it saves time and if your stuck in the woop woop you know u can get your hands on some. Btw not good to mix oils, pick one and stick to it till you sell the car.


Also best to look up the owners manual whats the recommended grade and buy either that or better. (every mechanic should have this book)

A car with 1xx,xxxkms that isn't showing any abnormal wear or isn't under heavy and consistant loads... such as towing, track work etc... should ALWAYS STICK TO OEM VISCOSITIES!!! Unless you are burning a considerable amount of oil (Random Rule of Thumb: more than 300-500ml every 5000kms) use the MANUFACTURERS RECOMMENDED OIL VISCOSITY.

Don't ever think that "thicker is better" manufacturers recommend a specific Viscosity for a reason.


No i will not say its better, i'm just saying nulon is fine.
Anyways, Mobil 1 is the best fully synthetic oil because it is the only true Group IV oil thats readily available on Australian shelves. The next true fully synthetic oil is Amsoil which is harder to get here.

Nulon, castrol, shell, etc... claim to be fully synthetic but they are actually highly refined Group III oils. Castrol won the fight to call there oil fully synthetic through some loop hole.

So yea, alil lecture, but Mobil 1 top shelf stuff... comes with the price tag too.

More misinformation. When Castrol won in courts about Classing a Hydro processed mineral as synthetic... shortly after... Mobil 1 followed suit to save money. Mobil 1 products (again excluding 0 weights; due to physical boundaries of mineral oils at these viscosities) consist mainly of GROUP III (Hydro processed) base stock and some Group IV and the remaining is an Additive Package.

Mobil 1 (Although it may have a slightly better Anti-Wear package than the Group III Castrol Edge) is essentially VERY overpriced mineral oil.

Source: Mark G. from Mobil Engineering.


yeah nah, i pass on the mobil 1. Seems to burn in my car.

Motul, Reline & Royal purple are proper group iv synthetics.

From my understanding Mobil 1 is not even a true group 4. Not the AU ones anyway.
In the states it is group 4, but we get the crap stuff.

Redline, Royal Purple and Motul are all Ester/Di-Ester Synthetics which are classed as Group V... great for the High Revving Nature and consistent pressure put on an engine for track use and have natural acids/cleaning properties to cleanse engine internals. However as showed in several oil tests; compared to a FULLY SYNTHETIC Group IV (PAO) they degrade quicker and don't have AS good cold start and flow properties.

REMEMBER:
NULON is not a "TRUE FULLY SYNTHETIC" Excluding their Zero Weights (0W) they are Group III (Severe Hydroprocessed) oils. I would be choosing Castrol Edge GROUP III over Nulon without second thoughts. There are rumours that Nulon have a good anti-wear additive package... but until i see more Nulon tests come up in Oil Analysis stick with the brands.


check out http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=49kETjPZP9Y

V & E Rigoli tests different oils back to back on a mate's evo6

Several Issues with this test. Considering that it's Australian and was Supported by Nulon.
The figures don't show much when the oil is brand new and hasn't suffered from even Mild Degradation.
There are no comparison of Sensor Readings/Air Temp/Humidity and other variabilities
Power is not the only way (one of the few I would recommend) to test actual Oil quality, Viscosity Degredation and Contamination. An oil analysis will always tell you that straight out. It's also a smart way to get an actual drain interval specific to your car and oil/filter combination.

Although there is an argument that it is not available off the shelf in Australia... but it's funny how they don't compare AMSOIL...

[lookingforboost]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW :)

[aaronng]

was looking a youtube video the other day of the vtec club on best motoring international with DK Keiichii, and Spoon director ichisama .. he reackons engine oil is not that important, and the "jap spec" FEO oil is more than good enough for cars that see the track 2-3 times a year... On a more important note is the tranny oil.. He was saying how engine oil is passed through a filter, and is cleaned etc.. its treated.. Whereas tranny oil, just sit in the box.. and does just that...

Jap spec FEO oil is a Group IV full synthetic. Aus spec FEO oil is a cheap mineral oil. So what he says is valid for Japan but not here in Australia, unless you are buying jap spec synthetic FEO.

[aaronng]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW :)
How much is Nulon 5w-40? Castrol Edge 5w-30 is only $35 on super sale and $40 on 20% sale. I've been to the site where they make Nulon oil, and I'd prefer to use Castrol. :)

[Limbo]

i brought some of the gold packaging nulon 10w40 in a 6ltr pack for $50

[lookingforboost]

How much is Nulon 5w-40? Castrol Edge 5w-30 is only $35 on super sale and $40 on 20% sale. I've been to the site where they make Nulon oil, and I'd prefer to use Castrol. :)

i pay $50 to 55 for the 5W-40 nulon as limbo said its cheaper for the 10w-40, aus owned run and made money stays here so i would rather pay a bit more for it because i know its make a difference to how mnay kms i get to a tank!!!!

[Phased]

I have used and tryed the castrol edge's i dont like them and i know the Nulon is a better oil and i know for a fact that even though they cannont mention the names off the other oils they tested it agianst in the friction test one of them was Castrol Edge 5-30 i use it in all my familys cars, its a local product the money stays here and really performs if your so worried about your motor then why the hell are you putting Edge in the first place, with a car that has 100,000kms plus putting the most expensive oil in really isnt going to do much if for the first 100,000 somone flogged the car and hardly serviced it!

In saying that my mate has a 315KW ATW's GSR running 25psi on stock internals and has done for nearly 5 years now and only services it every now and agian last service was 2 years ago about 7000kms with castrol magnatec :P

Nulon 5W-40 FTW :)

In order for me to take your comment even remotely seriously, you have to have some foundation...

- How do you "know" Nulon is better than Castrol Edge for a fact? Because of a bias oil test done by somebody in Australia sponsored by Nulon?!?!?! Show me Independent Oil Analysis'!!! The only two oil analysis' of Nulon I have seen, showed that they have high levels (close to legal limit) of Phosphorus slightly lowering cylinder head wear in certain engines. This however will contribute to higher emissions and lower catalytic converter life. Other than that in a Four Ball Wear test the Nulon was far behind even the Group III PENNZOIL PLATINUM.

- You shouldn't be comparing different viscosity oils... (Castrol Edge 5w30, Nulon 5w40)

- By definition regardless of wear or friction additives a 40 weight oil will give higher fuel consumption at operating temperature.

- The further apart the viscosity index (5w40 vs. 5w30) in a Group III (Mineral) oil the greater amount of viscosity modifiers are required which will have adverse effect on friction and wear. This isn't held true in oils like AMSOIL, Royal Purple, Motul as a fully synthetic oil (PAO/ESTER) are 'naturally' multi-viscosity oils.

- Nulon has a higher pour point which indicates poorer cold start and flow characteristics... Which is when the most engine wear is caused.

- Nulon only contains a minimum of 60% Group III "Synthetic Oil" the rest is mineral oil and additives. Castrol Edge contains a minimum of 70% Group III Base Stock.

You seem to be very stuck to the point it's Australian, I can 100% understand what your saying about supporting Australia. However, until we create something that is actually the same or better than competitors products (even if its slightly more expensive) I will stick to better products.

If I had a "sportier" car and drove hard I would be using AMSOIL no questions. However, Changing at 5000kms becomes expensive. I just changed out my first lot of Castrol Edge and am sending some FEO, Castrol Edge 5w30 and AMSOIL 5w30 away for Oil Analysis.

I would try Nulon, however I've seen Oil Analysis out of a K20A and it wasn't fantastic. It was compared to Mobil 1, Castrol Edge and Elf 5w30's. Nulon is just another Group III.

[Mikecivic78]

In order for me to take your comment even remotely seriously, you have to have some foundation...

- How do you "know" Nulon is better than Castrol Edge for a fact? Because of a bias oil test done by somebody in Australia sponsored by Nulon?!?!?! Show me Independent Oil Analysis'!!! The only two oil analysis' of Nulon I have seen, showed that they have high levels (close to legal limit) of Phosphorus slightly lowering cylinder head wear in certain engines. This however will contribute to higher emissions and lower catalytic converter life. Other than that in a Four Ball Wear test the Nulon was far behind even the Group III PENNZOIL PLATINUM.

- You shouldn't be comparing different viscosity oils... (Castrol Edge 5w30, Nulon 5w40)

- By definition regardless of wear or friction additives a 40 weight oil will give higher fuel consumption at operating temperature.

- The further apart the viscosity index (5w40 vs. 5w30) in a Group III (Mineral) oil the greater amount of viscosity modifiers are required which will have adverse effect on friction and wear. This isn't held true in oils like AMSOIL, Royal Purple, Motul as a fully synthetic oil (PAO/ESTER) are 'naturally' multi-viscosity oils.

- Nulon has a higher pour point which indicates poorer cold start and flow characteristics... Which is when the most engine wear is caused.

- Nulon only contains a minimum of 60% Group III "Synthetic Oil" the rest is mineral oil and additives. Castrol Edge contains a minimum of 70% Group III Base Stock.

You seem to be very stuck to the point it's Australian, I can 100% understand what your saying about supporting Australia. However, until we create something that is actually the same or better than competitors products (even if its slightly more expensive) I will stick to better products.

If I had a "sportier" car and drove hard I would be using AMSOIL no questions. However, Changing at 5000kms becomes expensive. I just changed out my first lot of Castrol Edge and am sending some FEO, Castrol Edge 5w30 and AMSOIL 5w30 away for Oil Analysis.

I would try Nulon, however I've seen Oil Analysis out of a K20A and it wasn't fantastic. It was compared to Mobil 1, Castrol Edge and Elf 5w30's. Nulon is just another Group III.

So do you think I'm wasting my time on Nulon "fully Synth" 10w40? I decided to change to synthetic at 168,000Km on my b16a2 (11,000 kms and 2oil changes ago. The reason I got it in the 1st place is the local Supercheap/Repco didn't stock anything better and synthetic at that viscosity. Autobarn, who have a wide selection are over 25 Kms away. I wasn't goin to buy castrol as didn't want to risk getting something so light as 5w30 incase I developed leaks on my higher mileage engine.

I drive my car reasonably hard and usually shift at 4krpm. Of course the oil is changed no more than say every 5-6,000kms.

I would like to switch to motul, but I've heard that its not a good idea to change brands too often. Besides, Nulon are pretty price competetive
( and I can get it around the corner from my house.) Furthermore, like I've stated before, the engine seems to run well, and oil consumption and fuel economy is no more than when I used mineral FEO.

I would like to hear your opinions, not just from Phased, but from some OH veterans.

Don't flame me for my naivety as I'm not an oil specialist,

MikeCivic

[lookingforboost]

i know for a fact that my car uses less fuel with the nulon oil in then the castrol because i have tested it in my own car, as this thread is for the average person asking for what people think is the better oil to run i far prefer the nulon oil to the castrol edge.
as for all my other componets diff gearbox i use the redline oils and i would use that or royal purple but i cant see the gain in spending the extra money when i change the oil and filter every 5000 or before a long trip anyway

i think what you know is interesting if you can post up some kind of comparasion between the popular brands of oils that would be awesome as i am interested to know thats for sure but if we dont support aus brands how will they ever get better and grow into these other brands you mentioned that the normal person would have never heard of or seen in a store?

[Phased]

So do you think I'm wasting my time on Nulon "fully Synth" 10w40? I decided to change to synthetic at 168,000Km on my b16a2 (11,000 kms and 2oil changes ago. The reason I got it in the 1st place is the local Supercheap/Repco didn't stock anything better and synthetic at that viscosity. Autobarn, who have a wide selection are over 25 Kms away. I wasn't goin to buy castrol as didn't want to risk getting something so light as 5w30 incase I developed leaks on my higher mileage engine.

I drive my car reasonably hard and usually shift at 4krpm. Of course the oil is changed no more than say every 5-6,000kms.

I would like to switch to motul, but I've heard that its not a good idea to change brands too often. Besides, Nulon are pretty price competetive
( and I can get it around the corner from my house.) Furthermore, like I've stated before, the engine seems to run well, and oil consumption and fuel economy is no more than when I used mineral FEO.

I would like to hear your opinions, not just from Phased, but from some OH veterans.

Don't flame me for my naivety as I'm not an oil specialist,

MikeCivic

In the real world... the difference of wear is usually only seen on cars that have used synthetic for a while and when they reach past 200,000kms. Past this point, it's usually other issues and mechanical problems that cause unreliability. Very rarely is it due to internal failure due to poor quality oil.

In all realism; statistics show that a car is likely to be written off (Crash, Stolen, dumped etc) before it reaches a point to were synthetic oils would of shown their true benefits. Thus why Synthetic Oil manufactures push towards Fleet use.

You are better off changing more often than using these far fetched extended drain intervals. If you read modern Honda Service manuals, oil gets changed every 10k and filter every 20k. I change my oil (now using Castrol Edge 5w30 and AMSOIL Ea Synthetic Oil Filter) every 5,000kms.

I'm a firm believer in a good Quality Oil Filter. After all whats the point in having perfectly engineered $100 Oil if your filter only filters efficiently down to 35 Microns. Your oil will end up being quickly contaminated anyway.

Bottom Line: Change more often, Use a quality Oil Filter. High Quality Synthetics are good, but if money is an issue prioritize change intervals and Oil Filter.

Oil Filters
The Good:
AMSOIL Ea Absolute Efficiency (98.7% at 15 Microns)
Pureolator PureONE (99.9% at 20 Microns)
K&N Gold (Semi-Synthetic)
Mobil 1 (Same Manufacturer as K&N)

Ryco are OK

Do not recommend: Repco, Valvoline etc.

It's up to whether you think the extra protection and POSSIBLE fuel efficiency is worth the extra money.

[Mikecivic78]

Bottom Line: Change more often, Use a quality Oil Filter. High Quality Synthetics are good, but if money is an issue prioritize change intervals and Oil Filter.

Change more often?

As stated in my last post, I change it every 5-6000Km.

The filter gets changed at this time aswell (OEM filter). I don't use my car on the track, so how often are you suggesting I change it?

[blabla]

What do ppl think of elf Excellium GP 10W-50 this is what i am currently running

[johnn]

I still rate Castrol Edge 5w/30 as the top choice. I believe the FEO Honda Oil nothing compared to Castrol Edge.

[lookingforboost]

i find this relaly interesting

Oil Filters
The Good:
AMSOIL Ea Absolute Efficiency (98.7% at 15 Microns)
Pureolator PureONE (99.9% at 20 Microns)
K&N Gold (Semi-Synthetic)
Mobil 1 (Same Manufacturer as K&N)

Ryco are OK

The pureONE oil filters are really not that expensive either i will definalty be using these from now on instead of the Ryco ones!

[Phased]

Change more often?

As stated in my last post, I change it every 5-6000Km.

The filter gets changed at this time aswell (OEM filter). I don't use my car on the track, so how often are you suggesting I change it?

Sorry. When I stated Change more often... It was a generalization... not specific to yourself.

5000km is what I would recommend. Nulon is sufficient. The only thing I would be considering to change with your maintenance habits would possibly look into a better oil filter. Even though I don't believe Nulon rates well enough to justify it's price... it's still a good Group III. And is better than a basic mineral.


What do ppl think of elf Excellium GP 10W-50 this is what i am currently running

Elf is still a Group III. However I would class it as one of the better group III's.

One point I would be looking at is the Viscosity, I hope you typed 50 by mistake. Unless your honda is chewing through oil (in which case it should be rebuilt) you shouldn't be using a oil as heavy as that.

Soon enough we might actually see Group III Oils (Severe Hydro-Procesed) oils with the same and possibly better qualities than Group IV (PAO's) although most may not think it's possible and if your aware of how both of the processes differ (One is severely "filtered or processed" mineral oil where as PAO's are basically derived from gases, and Esters (Group V's) are usually derived from Natural Acids) It would seem common sense that something engineered would be better.

However there is a new Hydro-Processing method on the way and is going to be dubbed Group III+. With this process it's possible to get Group III's with similar NOACK Vitality, Pour Point and flow properties of a PAO (Group IV).


i find this relaly interesting

Oil Filters
The Good:
AMSOIL Ea Absolute Efficiency (98.7% at 15 Microns)
Pureolator PureONE (99.9% at 20 Microns)
K&N Gold (Semi-Synthetic)
Mobil 1 (Same Manufacturer as K&N)

Ryco are OK

The pureONE oil filters are really not that expensive either i will definalty be using these from now on instead of the Ryco ones!

Just make sure it is a PureONE not just a normal Purolator. The chances are why they are cheap is because Purolator itself distributes in Australia... Instead of passing through about 3 Distributors like the K&N and Mobil 1's do. That's what ruins Australian Retail prices on Oil and many other things... Lower Demand and the Chain Effects of Distribution.

[blabla]

elf is around the same price as nulon just a quick price from supercheap the 10-40 is $59.95

[aaronng]

What do ppl think of elf Excellium GP 10W-50 this is what i am currently running

Too thick. 1 step thinner to a 40 weight.

[aaronng]

Group III has one advantage over Group IV. Group III tends to adhere to metal surfaces for longer than Group IV. If you only drive your car on the weekends, then the Group III leaves a protective layer on the engine internals for longer. Group IV on the other hand is better for a daily driven car where the oil film does not have a chance to run down. Group IV does last longer than Group III and resists oil breakdown from extreme conditions.

Some people think ester-based oils (Group V) like the 300V is the best. While they do protect the best, they also break down very quickly, quicker than a Group III. Group V is better suited for a racing car doing many lap of circuit racing.

[Phased]

Group III has one advantage over Group IV. Group III tends to adhere to metal surfaces for longer than Group IV. If you only drive your car on the weekends, then the Group III leaves a protective layer on the engine internals for longer. Group IV on the other hand is better for a daily driven car where the oil film does not have a chance to run down. Group IV does last longer than Group III and resists oil breakdown from extreme conditions.

Some people think ester-based oils (Group V) like the 300V is the best. While they do protect the best, they also break down very quickly, quicker than a Group III. Group V is better suited for a racing car doing many lap of circuit racing.

Exactly as I said about the Esters. I would only really recommend them for track use. (Change before; Change after).

I have not really heard or seen any proof (have only heard theories/stories) of why Group III's leave a protective layer for longer. Even a Four-Ball Wear test or Severe Hydro Pressure test doesn't reveal what happens to the oil once gravity/other forces have caused it to come away from the surface.

I like the AMSOIL (100% PAO Basestock, of course a percentage of this is additives) however... I want to change my oil every 5,000kms and AMSOIL becomes far too expensive... and of course... with AMSOIL you don't get the Oil Change Sticker to let people know what oil you're running... the most important part! xD

Can't wait until I finally get results back from Oil Anaylsis! AMSOIL 5w30 vs Royal Purple 5w30 vs Castrol Edge 5w30 vs Honda FEO 10w30!!!

[Limbo]

i normally use OEM honda filters or K&N, which are great to use.

Oil wise i've use quite a few, but i've been changing due to burn on track days.
Will prob be trying the amsoil soon as i've just found a supplier close by at a reasonable price.

[keeff]

I read about a lot of different oils to go in my s2k and i used nulon 5w30 but found it used a little oil so changed to 10w40 synthetice and so far so good previously only used honda oil 10w30 which is made by mobil .5w30 or 5w40 dosnt suit the s2k its to thin 10w30 is recomended nulon make a 10w40 synthetice which is made in oz as good as eny yank oil the only diff between the 30 and 40 is the temp range the oil will peforme at the 10 being the vicosity or thicknes you can go crazy sorting out the diff i also use a ryco oil filter

[Phased]

i normally use OEM honda filters or K&N, which are great to use.

Oil wise i've use quite a few, but i've been changing due to burn on track days.
Will prob be trying the amsoil soon as i've just found a supplier close by at a reasonable price.

Keep in mind though, K&N are only semi-synthetic and they don't state what the definition of "harmful particles" is. They most likely only measure down to 30 or 20 Microns. Where tests have proven that the smaller particules of dust (20 Micron and below) are actually the cause for a large majority of engine wear caused by intake contaminates.

It would be similar to Air Filters, Using an AMSOIL Ea Air filter decreases Engine wear due to particle intake by 70% compared to a K&N Wet Gauze and 45% compared to the average OEM Air Filter. (this is one of the reasons I steer clear of K&N, especially on a daily car) I can't remember the figures for a comparison on the oil filter and no way am I sorting through my collection of oil analysis again to find it. lol. They were similar though. As the AMSOIL Oil filters are 98.7% Efficient at 15 MICRONS, not 20 Microns like the rest measure it at. They are also over 92% efficient at 10 Microns, which is incredible.

I've only seen 3 distributors of AMSOIL in Australia. The one in brisbane is where I get it from.. the one in Melbourne is an absolute Rip Off! Which one are you referring to?

[aaronng]

Keep in mind though, K&N are only semi-synthetic and they don't state what the definition of "harmful particles" is. They most likely only measure down to 30 or 20 Microns. Where tests have proven that the smaller particules of dust (20 Micron and below) are actually the cause for a large majority of engine wear caused by intake contaminates. Using an AMSOIL Ea Air filter decreases Engine wear due to particle intake by 70% compared to a K&N Wet Gauze and 45% compared to the average OEM Air Filter. (this is one of the reasons I steer clear of K&N, especially on a daily car) I can't remember the figures on the oil filter and no way am I sorting through my collection of oil analysis again to find it. lol.

I believe he was referring to K&N oil filters. Not the air filters.

[Phased]

I believe he was referring to K&N oil filters. Not the air filters.


I know, I was too. I probably should of paragraphed it better as I trailed off into Air filters as I couldn't remember the figures for the equivilant Oil Filter comparison.

[icejazz]

Hi, could someone let me know what the contact details are for the AMSOIL distributor in Brisbane because the one in Melbourne tells me that they don't have the EA oil filters for the Jazz (a bit strange).

Thanks!

[gumus89]

Um, just wondering... Do you think its really necessary to spend the extra on oil filters for a Jazz?
If its for fuel efficiency then you would get much better results by changing driving style than having AMSOIL oil/filter.
If its for protection, as stated earlier in the thread, your car will suffer a breakdown from other sources of be written off before the oil matters.

[4age8u]

using nulon 10-40 my99 wrx liking it so far

had penrite hpr10-50 never again