CRV Calipers and Rotors on an EG?

[Jaime]

Hi all,

I went down to pick and payless today and found a CRV with good condition brake calipers and rotors. As the title states, I was wondering if I could use the calipers and rotors and Brake cylinder/booster of the CRV and put them onto my EG.

Or Should I play it safe and get EK4 front brake set-up.

Help Please. Thanks In Advance

[mocchi]

how much they cost?
try it and tell us.

[Aydin]

Hi all,

I went down to pick and payless today and found a CRV with good condition brake calipers and rotors. As the title states, I was wondering if I could use the calipers and rotors and Brake cylinder/booster of the CRV and put them onto my EG.

Or Should I play it safe and get EK4 front brake set-up.

Help Please. Thanks In Advance

yes the fronts will work but not sure bout the brake booster....but then your fronts will be 5 lug and rears will be 4 lug....

[jdm_b16a]

My research leads me to believe you also need to swap out the outer CV joint off the CRV axles as the spline is different in size. Calipers, pads and discs should be fine though. Not too sure about the booster, MC etc. The only way to find out is try it.

They must have another one out there, do they? I got the calipers off one a couple of weeks ago!

Peter

[eg6sir]

The hub of the CRV is a direct bolt on for the EG, given it's the 96-01 model, you would need to run a 36mm outer cv joint, EG is 32mm. if you only talking about the caliper and disk then it wouldn't be possible, because EG has 242mm front disk, you can't go up 2 sizes with oem equipment, therefore you need a hub from a DC2 integra with 262mm front, then you can use CRV caliper and run a 282mm disk. as far as the booster and master cylinder, they are direct bolt on. for this brake conversion to work properly you can't use you 13/16" MC, your pedal will go through the floor, if you have rear disk then 1" is ideal, if you still have drums in the back, a 15/16" is adequate. i would personally use the disk from a bb1 vti-r prelude with 4x114 stud patten, much easier to re-drill 4 holes for your 4x100 setup, and the disk offset is much better to use on the EG. stopping performance is phenomenal with 282mm disk, but tyres will be your limiting factor to fully utilise this conversion, also you need to upgrade your shocks and springs, due to unsprung weight increase, the caliper and disk is a lot heavier than your original brakes.

[Jaime]

Thanks for the input guys.

To eg6sir:
My suspension has been upgraded to dc2r shocks and springs, front and rear swaybars, with strut braces. I'm about to start a b20 build so I need start thinking about better braking power. Im also running toyo t1r 205/50r15 tires.

What I understand from your post is that I'm able to run the full hub from the crv in my eg with the crv brake booster and mc. I have an eg5 so that means that it has rear disk brakes so the set-up of the crv hubs and brake booster and mc should work fine on my eg?

Is converting the outer cv joint from 32mm to 36mm difficult?

[~Sp33~]

also you need to upgrade your shocks and springs, due to unsprung weight increase, the caliper and disk is a lot heavier than your original brakes.

Unsprung weight means that it ISN'T supported by your shocks and springs.

You don't need to upgrade your shocks and springs.

[eg6sir]

Unsprung weight means that it ISN'T supported by your shocks and springs.

You don't need to upgrade your shocks and springs.

thats incorrect, Unsprung weight is a mass which has its own inherent inertia separate from the rest of the vehicle, is the portion of a vehicle that is not supported by the suspension including wheels, tires and BRAKES. due to 282mm disk have bigger diameter and CRV caliper is a lot larger in dimension, cast iron is very heavy, and both disk and caliper are made from cast iron, this combo put extra load on the factory EG suspension which is designed for much lower unsprung weight. handling will be severely affected without upgrading both shocks and springs.

Gettiing back to Jaime, CRV hubs, booster and MC will work 100%, you just need to reflare the hard brake line coming out of the MC. don't forget CRV is 5 studs, if you run CRV hubs in the front that means you will be left with 4 studs at the back, running 2 set of wheels is not a very good idea. dc2r will be adequate for the set up you are looking at, as far as chaging outer cv is concerned, i never done it my self so i can comment on it. if you can find a set of dc2r rear brakes then go with CRV, that way you will have a complete 5 studs conversion, other wise dc2 front hubs, prelude vtir disks and CRV calipers is your best bet.

[~Sp33~]

thats incorrect, Unsprung weight is a mass which has its own inherent inertia separate from the rest of the vehicle, is the portion of a vehicle that is not supported by the suspension including wheels, tires and BRAKES. due to 282mm disk have bigger diameter and CRV caliper is a lot larger in dimension, cast iron is very heavy, and both disk and caliper are made from cast iron, this combo put extra load on the factory EG suspension which is designed for much lower unsprung weight. handling will be severely affected without upgrading both shocks and springs.
.

So you agree that the brakes are unsprung, how will upgrading the suspension help with the extra weight of the brakes? The extra weight which is unsupported by the suspension?

[eg6sir]

So you agree that the brakes are unsprung, how will upgrading the suspension help with the extra weight of the brakes? The extra weight which is unsupported by the suspension?

i don't know what you are asking, and i don't know what you are talking about, read my posts carefully and fully, try to understand it, in my original post i clearly indicated brakes are unsprung weight, you need to upgrade the springs and shocks to compensate for the extra weight increase. thats not hard to understand, when you do reply, make sure you include some constructive arguments.

[WA-EG]

i think, from my reading his comments, he's talking about weight transfer for the car in general. you add extra weight to the corners when cornering your going to have extra load being tranferred to the outer corners which means suspension has to be adequate. straight line braking performance will also increase meaning car will rely more on suspension to keep it in check.

Thats how i took it. :-) i'm prepared to be wrong though

ps: yes i used corners alot in there

[eg6sir]

i think, from my reading his comments, he's talking about weight transfer for the car in general. you add extra weight to the corners when cornering your going to have extra load being tranferred to the outer corners which means suspension has to be adequate. straight line braking performance will also increase meaning car will rely more on suspension to keep it in check.

Thats how i took it. :-) i'm prepared to be wrong though

ps: yes i used corners alot in there

thank you WA-EG, for your inputs, thats a different way of putting it.

[Jaime]

Gettiing back to Jaime, CRV hubs, booster and MC will work 100%, you just need to reflare the hard brake line coming out of the MC. don't forget CRV is 5 studs, if you run CRV hubs in the front that means you will be left with 4 studs at the back, running 2 set of wheels is not a very good idea. dc2r will be adequate for the set up you are looking at, as far as chaging outer cv is concerned, i never done it my self so i can comment on it. if you can find a set of dc2r rear brakes then go with CRV, that way you will have a complete 5 studs conversion, other wise dc2 front hubs, prelude vtir disks and CRV calipers is your best bet.

The Brake set-up that I have seen at the wreckers is 4 stud, the CRV I'm guessing would be in this case 4*114. It is a Japanese import. Im actually leaning towards getting the set-up that I have seen as everything I need is out of the same car. I have a think about it and if not I'll go with your recommendation of Dc2 hubs, prelude vti-r disks and crv calipers.

Can I use the crv Brake booster and MC if I go with your recommendation?

Thanks again for the comments...I'm learning something new.

[~Sp33~]

i don't know what you are asking, and i don't know what you are talking about, read my posts carefully and fully, try to understand it, in my original post i clearly indicated brakes are unsprung weight, you need to upgrade the springs and shocks to compensate for the extra weight increase. thats not hard to understand, when you do reply, make sure you include some constructive arguments.

You're saying that increasing the un sprung weight of the car requires an upgrade to suspension? Stiffer suspension and lower center of gravity is a general rule for making the car corner better, however i don't see how adding unsprung weight requires an upgrade to suspension. Also how much weight do you think it's going to add? 10kg?

If you were adding SPRUNG weight to a car, that would require an upgrade to suspension because of the added weight transfer that the suspension has to deal with.

[eg6sir]

The Brake set-up that I have seen at the wreckers is 4 stud, the CRV I'm guessing would be in this case 4*114. It is a Japanese import. Im actually leaning towards getting the set-up that I have seen as everything I need is out of the same car. I have a think about it and if not I'll go with your recommendation of Dc2 hubs, prelude vti-r disks and crv calipers.

Can I use the crv Brake booster and MC if I go with your recommendation?

Thanks again for the comments...I'm learning something new.

what model CRV is it? i don't think i recall a CRV with 4 studs. but regardless which set up you doing, if you decide to run a CRV, legend or a dc2r caliper, MC upgrade is a must, 1" will be ideal, but 15/16" is absolutly minimum. or your pedal modulation will be poor and have extreme brake pedal travel. on the MC there will ba a number cast which indicate the size of the cylinder. what ever you change up front, don't forget the back, keep it the same bolt pattern.

[Jaime]

what model CRV is it? i don't think i recall a CRV with 4 studs. but regardless which set up you doing, if you decide to run a CRV, legend or a dc2r caliper, MC upgrade is a must, 1" will be ideal, but 15/16" is absolutly minimum. or your pedal modulation will be poor and have extreme brake pedal travel. on the MC there will ba a number cast which indicate the size of the cylinder. what ever you change up front, don't forget the back, keep it the same bolt pattern.

Im not exactly sure what year but it is the shape of the 98-00 model, and yeah I just confirmed with my mate and it's a 4 stud, most likely 4*114.

Anyway, I have made my decision and will be going for the recommended:
dc2 hubs
prelude vti-r disks
Crv calipers

Master Cylinder, Crv one?

And not forgetting I want to remain 4*100

Thanks Again for the input guys.

[jdm_b16a]

There is one CRV at PnP and I got the calipers off it a couple of weeks ago. It is 5 stud. All CRVs are 5 stud. Don't know what you are looking at but its not a CRV.

Peter

[Jaime]

I don't know man, My mate and I saw it and it was 4 stud...We were talking about it and he said crv's are 4 stud....then he saw it and we were both shocked...Yeah it was 4 stud.

UNLESS MY MATE AND I ARE JUST BLIND AS.

[EGB]

CRV use the same calipers as Type R, Legend etc. 5 Stud.

The easiest (well i guess) is to keep your civic hubs, shave down the caliper and have the rotors redrilled to 4x100. Speak to Yonas at JDMYard he can offer machining and redrilling.

1 Inch BMC, 40/40 Prop Valve, SS Lines, Good Brake Fluid and its a hell of a setup.

Btw running this on the front you may want to think about running bigger on the rear as it is biased.

[WA-EG]

CRV use the same calipers as Type R, Legend etc. 5 Stud.

The easiest (well i guess) is to keep your civic hubs, shave down the caliper and have the rotors redrilled to 4x100. Speak to Yonas at JDMYard he can offer machining and redrilling.

1 Inch BMC, 40/40 Prop Valve, SS Lines, Good Brake Fluid and its a hell of a setup.

Btw running this on the front you may want to think about running bigger on the rear as it is biased.

Could be like my Type R set up. 4x114.4 Perhaps its JDM.......

Can any body tell me, can I just upgrade the size of the rotor?? Currently have 262mm, but wondering if I can go to 282mm with Type R calipers and hubs.

[jdm_b16a]

If you were at PnP Blacktown, then there is only one CRV out there. I was out there today and it is definitely 5 stud.

And, yes, the ultimate OEM brake package for the front is the Type R caliper/bracket with Prelude VTEC rotors redrilled to 4 x 100.

Peter

[mocchi]

If you were at PnP Blacktown, then there is only one CRV out there. I was out there today and it is definitely 5 stud.

And, yes, the ultimate OEM brake package for the front is the Type R caliper/bracket with Prelude VTEC rotors redrilled to 4 x 100.

Peter

got chassis number for that prelude vtec? is that bb6?

[90LAN]

sorry the ultimate oem package is itr 36 mm jdm brakes with nsx calipers

[WA-EG]

sorry the ultimate oem package is itr 36 mm jdm brakes with nsx calipers

say what?? 36mm? is there meant to be a zero? and would they fit a EG.

Couldnt you just get normal prelude rotors 282mm, if you were happy to keep the type r calipers and 4x114.4?

[EG5]

CRV caliper wont bolt on to your EG si/vti knuckle , you need ek4 / dc2 knuckle to start with
shave the caliper bracket by around 3mm to get the rotors to sit perfectly in the middle of the caliper.
Easier to run prelude 4x114.3 282mm disc and redrill them to 4x100. Run DC2R or EK9 brake master cylinder/ brake booster.

[mocchi]

say what?? 36mm? is there meant to be a zero? and would they fit a EG.

Couldnt you just get normal prelude rotors 282mm, if you were happy to keep the type r calipers and 4x114.4?

he meant 36mm hub nut size. not 360mm rotors.

[WA-EG]

he meant 36mm hub nut size. not 360mm rotors.

:-S WA-EG = Honda noob.

this might seem like dumb question but why is 36mm hub nut better? Does this mean thicker shafts?

[Jaime]

CRV caliper wont bolt on to your EG si/vti knuckle , you need ek4 / dc2 knuckle to start with
shave the caliper bracket by around 3mm to get the rotors to sit perfectly in the middle of the caliper.
Easier to run prelude 4x114.3 282mm disc and redrill them to 4x100. Run DC2R or EK9 brake master cylinder/ brake booster.

Yea, Thanks Yonas and all the guys for comments/

I will go for the recommendations by you guys, and yea I checked the crv and it's 5 stud. I don't know where I got 4 stud from.

Anyways Thanks again guys.

[jdm_b16a]

sorry the ultimate oem package is itr 36 mm jdm brakes with nsx calipers

Yeah you're probably right; just can't remember the last time I saw an NSX out at Pick 'N' Payless. LOL!

Maybe I should have added a disclaimer - "realistically attainable'.

Peter

[defect]

back from the dead

has anyone put a DC2R MC on a 2000 CRV or bb6 Brake Booster ?
Do they fit?