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View Full Version : EK1 Engine Oil Change (Need Details Please) - D16Y4



aznalex
15-06-2010, 03:15 AM
hey guys,

uni holidays are coming up so i thought i might attempt an oil change for fun
oh - did 40 minutes of searching and reading but couldnt find anything specific on oil changing..
just a bunch of people asking for oil types and qualities and so on

i have a few questions..

how much oil needs to be replaced during an oil change in the d16y4 engine?
i have a service manual but it only specifies for the d16y7, y5 and y8 engines

does anyone here have a service manual specifically for the d16y4 engine?
i would really appreciate it!

lastly would you veterans have any tips for a newbie like me?
i dont want anything to go wrong lol

thanks in advance!

twing
15-06-2010, 09:02 AM
y4 should be not different from other d engine. my y8 takes 3.5 lt with oil filter replaced.
Try putting 3.5, and check the dip stick. top up as necessary.
tips:
* get hex socket to avoid rounding the nut.
* get a new washer for the sump plug. only $1 and it should seal the oil pan snug.
These tips were learnt with a hard way :)

cazz'shonda
15-06-2010, 09:40 AM
Best off to find out exactly how much oil the sump takes. Take note whether the oil quantity includes the filter; if not, add about 150-200ml for the filter volume.
If you just do it by guess work, you may think it needs a litre to get to the full mark(from where the 3.5L takes it) and it only required half, then it's over full. Overfull is just as bad as underfull as oil can be sucked into intakes and breathers, YUK.
DOn't be superman tightening the sump plug back up either or you'll have trouble next time undoing it. Also, don't tighten the filter with anything other than your hands if you have good access that is.

Check 2 times{at least} you have replaced the sump plug!!!....experience speaking here too.:(:secret:

mugen_ctr
15-06-2010, 09:50 AM
have u looked at the owners manaul? lol but it should tell u the exact specification as to what oil and how much, but aniways, d16y1,y4,y8 all pretty much take in 3.5 liters at most

EK1 Civic
15-06-2010, 02:17 PM
Looking in my service manual it doesn't say how much oil needs to be changed, just the km interval to perform the replacement of oil/filter. I'll keep looking through service and owners manuals incase i missed it. Sorry xD

aznalex
15-06-2010, 04:46 PM
sweet as guys, thanks for the info + tips!!

flipfire
15-06-2010, 04:55 PM
The amount shouldnt matter as your supposed to check the dipstick. Make sure the car is on a flat surface when checking.

kural7
15-06-2010, 04:59 PM
i know this is for the ek1 but since the topic is open does any1 know the amount i gota put into a CL9. the accord euro 05.
i did it by guess but just for future reference please..thanks

Limbo
15-06-2010, 06:04 PM
i know this is for the ek1 but since the topic is open does any1 know the amount i gota put into a CL9. the accord euro 05.
i did it by guess but just for future reference please..thanks

Check your manual, but nomally i put in about 3 1/2 litres check it and add bits as required.
All depends on your setup i.e oil coolers the filters etc.

kural7
15-06-2010, 11:03 PM
i checked the manual but it had like weird signs i thought maybe its a different measurement. ohh well when i check it its in between so im kool with that.

EK1 Civic
16-06-2010, 09:18 AM
The service manual and owners manual doesn't actually tell you how much oil to put into the engine. It tells you how to remove the cap and how to install an oil filter, remove oil and put oil back.

flipfire
16-06-2010, 10:18 AM
^ actually it does. I had the EK1 owners manual and service manual on pdf. It was like 3.8L plus 200mL more on a dry engine. Like i said the exact amount doesnt matter, after 3L you should be checking the dipstick

cazz'shonda
17-06-2010, 07:31 AM
The amount shouldnt matter as your supposed to check the dipstick. Make sure the car is on a flat surface when checking.
And, the engine is warm or you allow at least 15 minutes if the engine is cold for the majority of the oil to reach the sump.

Alvis
18-06-2010, 12:04 AM
Some other tips:
*Try change your engine oil every 5,000km to keep your engine running sweet (Honda's will run forever with regular oil changes)
*Always change oil when your car is cold first thing in the morning (not fun when hot!) + allows as much oil as possible to drip out of the oil filter
*Buy an oil tray to put old oil in (obvious really)
*Have a dirty rag on standby (you'll need it)
*Get a decent funnel to pour oil into engine and not a half cut plastic drink bottle (they will fall over and make a mess EVERYWHERE!)
*Depending on the way you drive and type of oil filter you buy also good to change your oil filter every 2 oil changes - so every 10,000km (though some people may change it every 5,000km). They are a pain in the a*se to get too, plus you can also buy a special tool to take the filter off.
*Clean any dry oil residue from inside engine oil cap

aznalex
19-06-2010, 03:04 PM
@ Alvis - regarding change of oil when engine is cold, can you elaborate?
i've read around with people saying that you should warm up the engine before doing an oil change. (im guessing so the oil runs out quicker)

so do i just leave the oil dripping out for longer if it was cold?

attempting oil change in the next few days..

(i actually bought a hydraulic pump jack and
[2 jack stands]
so i can jack up the front of my car)
1. it says i need some kind of hydraulic oil inside the device... what the heck?
2. i dont know the exact point to place the jack - to jack up the car lol

can anyone please help me with the above

flipfire
19-06-2010, 04:56 PM
1 Does the jack lift anything? The jack should already have oil inside, you just need to lube up a few parts.

2 Theres a jacking point on the front of the car. It was more to the right side if i recall. Refer to the service manual.

Alvis
19-06-2010, 05:49 PM
@ Alvis - regarding change of oil when engine is cold, can you elaborate?
i've read around with people saying that you should warm up the engine before doing an oil change. (im guessing so the oil runs out quicker)

so do i just leave the oil dripping out for longer if it was cold?

attempting oil change in the next few days..

(i actually bought a hydraulic pump jack and
[2 jack stands]
so i can jack up the front of my car)
1. it says i need some kind of hydraulic oil inside the device... what the heck?
2. i dont know the exact point to place the jack - to jack up the car lol

can anyone please help me with the above

Basically just do it first thing in the morning after the cars been sitting over night. That's what i've been told - that way all the oil from the oil filter (well, most of it anyway) has time to drip into the sump - I'm doing mine tomorrow as well as an oil filter change :-)

No need to jack the car up tho for an oil change... just lay an old piece of carpet down, get on your back, feel around for the nut on the sump, get your spanner (can't remember size - might be a 10 or 12) and unscrew. Obviously make sure you have your bucket ready to catch the oil tho lol - you might drop the nut in the bucket, but that's cool just fish it out...

And when the oil stops dripping out that's it! Screw the but back on - there might be a few drops still coming out, but don't worry too much about that... Change out your filter if you need to, then get your funnel and poor the new oil in the engine and keep checking the dip stick as you go - you'll be right champ once you've done it once, it's a piece of cake :-)

aznalex
19-06-2010, 07:36 PM
cheers for more info, gave out some random rep..!

um last question regarding the washer on the sump plug, do we have to replace that? or can i just re-use it?
cause im not sure where im gonna get a new washer although twing did say they cost like $1

flipfire
20-06-2010, 04:13 AM
Replacing it would be best, theres a chance of a leak if you re-use it. If the crush washer is in fairly good condition (no indentations) then you can prolly re-use it.

My tight ass dad has been re-using his washer since day one with no leaks lol

Alvis
20-06-2010, 01:27 PM
Yep, same - I've never replaced mine since new and no leaks ever - but if it puts your mind at ease then replace it.

Oh, and when you change the oil filter, before you fit the new one just smear a little bit of oil around the seal of the new filter - or else it will basically bake itself on and you'll have a heck of a time trying to get it off next time :-)

I used to use Pure One Purolator filters - but I've been told they don't make em for EKs anymore - so just gone with Honda OEM

Alvis
20-06-2010, 01:27 PM
Yep, same - I've never replaced mine since new and no leaks ever - but if it puts your mind at ease then replace it.

Oh, and when you change the oil filter, before you fit the new one just smear a little bit of oil around the seal of the new filter - or else it will basically bake itself on and you'll have a heck of a time trying to get it off next time :-)

I used to use Pure One Purolator filters - but I've been told they don't make em for EKs anymore - so just gone with Honda OEM

ALSO, thought it might be useful to include this link below on a review of Honda oil filters:

http://www.ntpog.org/reviews/filters/old_filters.shtml

Who knew there were 3 different Honda OEM oil filters!

sangyz
20-06-2010, 03:17 PM
Back when i used to be an apprentice i've always been told to warm the car up before servicing the car =o

aznalex
20-06-2010, 04:37 PM
Back when i used to be an apprentice i've always been told to warm the car up before servicing the car =o

im gonna assume thats to make the oil run out quicker as mechanics wont have all day to wait for the oil to drip out slowly (cold) as time = money

DIY people dont have a time limit so we can wait all day long for it to drip :P

thats my guess

kural7
20-06-2010, 07:17 PM
cheers for more info, gave out some random rep..!

um last question regarding the washer on the sump plug, do we have to replace that? or can i just re-use it?
cause im not sure where im gonna get a new washer although twing did say they cost like $1

you can pick them up from honda for 90cents. not sure if they answered the question but ye. and its ideal to change it i checked the size difference when i did my oil change and the ring on the old ones diameter had opened up about a 1mm. not much but eventualy will cause oil leak.

aznalex
20-06-2010, 07:54 PM
oh cheers, lol seems like we can get everything required for oil change at honda dealers :D

Alvis
20-06-2010, 08:46 PM
you can pick them up from honda for 90cents. not sure if they answered the question but ye. and its ideal to change it i checked the size difference when i did my oil change and the ring on the old ones diameter had opened up about a 1mm. not much but eventualy will cause oil leak.

nice to know... i think i'll change mine next time now too. And what oil do you guys use - i think Magnatec (I do a lot of short trips - Wollongong ain't that big lol) is a semi-synthetic. But i've heard if you use a full synthetic it's not good for the seals...???

flipfire
20-06-2010, 09:37 PM
Go with castrol edge 5w-30 $30 or OEM.

Magnatec is apparently crap for hondas

Alvis
21-06-2010, 05:15 AM
Thanks mate - i'll give that a go next time :-)

cazz'shonda
21-06-2010, 07:00 AM
@ Alvis - regarding change of oil when engine is cold, can you elaborate?
i've read around with people saying that you should warm up the engine before doing an oil change. (im guessing so the oil runs out quicker)

so do i just leave the oil dripping out for longer if it was cold?

attempting oil change in the next few days..

(i actually bought a hydraulic pump jack and
[2 jack stands]
so i can jack up the front of my car)
1. it says i need some kind of hydraulic oil inside the device... what the heck?
2. i dont know the exact point to place the jack - to jack up the car lol

can anyone please help me with the above
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA..........................
Sure this isn't a gee up????

aznalex
21-06-2010, 12:54 PM
lol i had a fiddle around with the hydraulic pump jack (very confusing instructions!!! - made in china)
didnt need hydraulic oil, someone stated that it should come with it, and it did.

i think some parts needed lubrication with oil thats all :p

cazz'shonda
24-06-2010, 06:57 AM
Aznalex, as you appear tp be new to car maintainence, please please always use the set of car stands too. Always leave the jack where you last used it to lift the car but just shy of touching the car while the stands are in place. Never, ever work under a car only supported by a hydraulic jack.
I have a couple of small collapsable wheel chocks I use whenever I work on our cars too, got 'em from supercheap and they stay in the boot of the car in case I need to change a tyre or something.

Alvis
24-06-2010, 09:52 AM
Oh really - I didn't know that about hydraulic jacks... so you use car stands and have the jack in place just in case?

And what are collapsable wheel chocks?

sangyz
24-06-2010, 09:58 AM
Well with hydraulic jacks you never know it can collapse at any time. That is why jack stands should always be used for your own safety

Alvis
24-06-2010, 10:24 AM
ok sure, thanks for the tip guys. I've never used jack stands - do they have a handle or something so you can jack them up under the car? Sorry, feel like a noob now lol

kural7
25-06-2010, 04:32 PM
lol naa u just life the car and the ones i've got u twist the top and ti twist out slowly.. the higher u want it the more u twist it. also make sure you place them on the support brackets providing on the actualy chassy of the car not on a plastic cover.. common sense.. and as for which oil to use just but the original its like 10 bux more expensive but you know it was made for your car. same with the oil filter. theres like a 3 dollar gap. not worth it. just a reminder when u change the oil filter to lubricate the new one before you put it on.. does any1 know if those filter cleaner things actually work? like engine cleaner bottles or the fuel injector cleaner bottles.. usually about 11 bux? are they any good? and how do i get a post quality point?

Alvis
25-06-2010, 05:13 PM
haha, right got it lol :)

And yep, always lubricate seal on new filter else you'll have a heck of a time getting it off next time!

Never used engine cleaners - only really use the Nulon octane booster every 4 fills or so...

Raztaz
26-06-2010, 06:16 PM
nice to know... i think i'll change mine next time now too. And what oil do you guys use - i think Magnatec (I do a lot of short trips - Wollongong ain't that big lol) is a semi-synthetic. But i've heard if you use a full synthetic it's not good for the seals...???

Castrol edge sport 5w-30

kural7
26-06-2010, 09:21 PM
does the octane booster actually help?

Alvis
27-06-2010, 09:03 PM
does the octane booster actually help?

I like to think it does :p It's hard to say because I also got an exhaust at around the same; but at the end of the day I think it's the same theory as what they say about using 98 octane fuels like V Power: you don't really get the full (or possibly any) benefit unless you continuously use the product over an extended period of time.

Hence the label which says to use it every 4 fills

Tai
29-06-2010, 03:37 PM
You should be draining your oil out when its warm.

IT allows the oil to flow easier when hot/warm.

Not to mention it gets rid of the moisture at the same time.

Doing it cold will take longer as well as the oil will be more a gunk opposed to warm.

I've been to 5 honda mechanic speciallist who all recommend doing it warm.

Alvis
11-08-2010, 04:22 PM
Just an update to this thread:

Spoke to Honda last week and they told me they are coming out with a new fully synthetic FEO oil within the next month or so. The current FEO is a semi-synthetic.

I questioned if for a 98 Civic if it was best to stick to semi (was worried about seals) but said he would actually recommend full over semi

ALSO, how much do you guys pay for your FEO oil? My local dealer is asking $44 for 5 litres (trade price because we've bought 2 Hondas from them)...

aznalex
23-09-2010, 09:35 PM
nice Alvis, i will definitely be going down to my local honda dealer and inquiring about their oil next time.


lol its been 3 months since i started this thread and i just changed the oil today...success!

found out i have a metal washer around the sump plug, doesnt leak but i thought it was meant to be rubber lol..

unless the guys before forgot to put a rubber washer before the metal washer thing!

Alvis
23-09-2010, 09:38 PM
can't remember off hand if mine has a rubber washer on the nut... you'd think it would...

but yeh, that fully synthetic FEO oil is now available from Honda ;)

flipfire
23-09-2010, 10:38 PM
Sump plug uses aluminum crush washers. They make a seal by getting crushed into place, thats why its recommended its changed every oil change.

Rubber wouldnt last very long