Short Ram Intake vs Cold Air Induction (DC5R)

[Nuci]

Hey all,

I currently have a K&N Short Ram Intake kit on my DC5R. However im being told that the cold air intake kits are much better for performance and responsiveness. Obviously with a direct cold air feed i can see the benefits. However with the particular kit that im looking at, the filter sits down behind the front bar (Injen CAI), which makes it vulnerable to stones, bugs, and particularly rain. This car is my daily drive, so am i risking it by fitting the CAI kit? This is my current kit:

So what is my best option, keeping in mind i want to maximise performance while not risking damage to the engine?

Cheers

[saikou27]

if u keep an eye on the filter and clean it appropriately u wont have a problem. unless u happen to drive in a huge puddle u wont have a problem with water and even then u'd have to be sitting in it and revving for a while

[Nuci]

Even heavy rain? No risk at all?

[Lowiez]

SRI is useless for a DC5 and probably either fractionally better in terms for performance compared to stock airbox, or worse.
It probably gives an alright induction note but and that's possibly misleading.

CAI are proven to give much better gains, and also sound awesome.
Injen it is possible to hydro lock your engine, this is where it sucks up water and takes a dump on your internals. But this is extremely unlikely and will only happen if the pod is actually submerged in water, so just don't drive through deep puddles. Heavy rain, storm, hosing your front bar there is no risk. Bugs and stones...not really an issue at all just clean the filter everynow and then. Your OEM bumper has a mesh type thing which prevents large rocks getting in.

ps. there are plenty of threads about Injen and DC5 intakes, do a search

edit: also if you want a CAI and really don't want to risk any chance at all possible of hydro lock, get GruppeM

[xenonkuraz]

If you get the Injen then get a pre-filter as well. It will repel the water

[ChiLLie]

i've driven thru storms/rain and have never had problems with my CAI, besides it getting a lil wet, the car won't actually gulp any major lumps of water into the engine. However, on a clear day, i went thru a small puddle, it soaked my pod so much that my engine suffocated and 'died'. no damage at all, just that the engine couldn't breathe. just don't sit in a creek with engine on and revving, coz that'll destroy ur motor :)

[TODA AU]

SRI is useless for a DC5 and probably either fractionally better in terms for performance compared to stock airbox, or worse.
It probably gives an alright induction note but and that's possibly misleading.

CAI are proven to give much better gains, and also sound awesome.
Injen it is possible to hydro lock your engine, this is where it sucks up water and takes a dump on your internals. But this is extremely unlikely and will only happen if the pod is actually submerged in water, so just don't drive through deep puddles. Heavy rain, storm, hosing your front bar there is no risk. Bugs and stones...not really an issue at all just clean the filter everynow and then. Your OEM bumper has a mesh type thing which prevents large rocks getting in.

ps. there are plenty of threads about Injen and DC5 intakes, do a search

edit: also if you want a CAI and really don't want to risk any chance at all possible of hydro lock, get GruppeM

Spot on... +1 rep

[EVLGTR]

Having pods in the end even street legal to start off with??

Would be great if there is a dyno chart to prove CAI vs SRI on a particular car.
The way i see it CAI targets the low-end powerband and SRI targets the High-end powerband.

[pablos8]

Having pods in the end even street legal to start off with??

Would be great if there is a dyno chart to prove CAI vs SRI on a particular car.
The way i see it CAI targets the low-end powerband and SRI targets the High-end powerband.

In terms of comparing dyno charts, CAI really peforms whilst the car is moving, i.e when air is flowing into the pod, if the cars just sitting on a dyno its not going anywhere and its not really benefitting from any 'cold air'

[EVLGTR]

In terms of comparing dyno charts, CAI really peforms whilst the car is moving, i.e when air is flowing into the pod, if the cars just sitting on a dyno its not going anywhere and its not really benefitting from any 'cold air'

isnt that what the huge fans in front of the vehicle use to dyno a car for?

For me, ive tried both setup CAI & SRI, behind the wheel i dont really feel any difference in terms of great performance when you're just driving around the streets (unless you want to race, use an ITB). The best way to find out is results on paper and generally trying out both setup hands-on to see which tickles your fancy...

heck, if most people here in favour of CAI then get it.......LOL

[Lowiez]

Having pods in the end even street legal to start off with??

Would be great if there is a dyno chart to prove CAI vs SRI on a particular car.
The way i see it CAI targets the low-end powerband and SRI targets the High-end powerband.

No, open filters are not legal in the engine bay. "Could catch on fire"



In terms of comparing dyno charts, CAI really peforms whilst the car is moving, i.e when air is flowing into the pod, if the cars just sitting on a dyno its not going anywhere and its not really benefitting from any 'cold air'

When the car is moving...that's generally what you would buy a intake upgrade for lol, and yeah a dyno has that huge fan.


isnt that what the huge fans in front of the vehicle use to dyno a car for?

For me, ive tried both setup CAI & SRI, behind the wheel i dont really feel any difference in terms of great performance when you're just driving around the streets (unless you want to race, use an ITB). The best way to find out is results on paper and generally trying out both setup hands-on to see which tickles your fancy...

heck, if most people here in favour of CAI then get it.......LOL

CAI > SRI in DC5 for all aspects of the powerband torque and outright power.
The reason why is because SRI designs on our cars are inferior and the air drawn in a SRI is as hot as a BBQ. And people realize this including reputable intake manufacturers so not only will the concept of an SRI be inferior but so will the design.

Most mods on a N/A 2.0L 4cyl you wont notice individually driving on the street...modifications to the engine bay as designed for track use and because of that generally when comparing performance between them we will talk about its difference on a track. The difference between a good intake and a above average could be a few milliseconds in a lap time

relying on the difference in paper is a horrible way to tune your car to your liking...every combination of parts on a car will reveal different dyno readings. A dyno should only be used to compare 'before and after' changes and the main perspective on tunning should be you driving the car

And CAI+RBC > ITB in teggy

[Nighthawk_S]

I saw intake temps up to 65 degrees on my scanguage when idling in traffic during the brisbane summer with an SRI. Temps while moving were generally 10 to 20 degrees above ambient temp i.e 40-50 degrees.

My new CAI is generally 0-5 degrees or so above ambient when when moving. Temps also stay much cooler in traffic and it is also alot faster to cool down once you are moving again. Dont think I ever saw it get much above 40 degrees.

The gain that comes from using a CAI is the lack of heatsoak for sure.
The noise an SRI makes is a bit better tho IMO, thats all.

[EVLGTR]

CAI > SRI in DC5 for all aspects of the powerband torque and outright power.
The reason why is because SRI designs on our cars are inferior and the air drawn in a SRI is as hot as a BBQ. And people realize this including reputable intake manufacturers so not only will the concept of an SRI be inferior but so will the design.

Most mods on a N/A 2.0L 4cyl you wont notice individually driving on the street...modifications to the engine bay as designed for track use and because of that generally when comparing performance between them we will talk about its difference on a track. The difference between a good intake and a above average could be a few milliseconds in a lap time

relying on the difference in paper is a horrible way to tune your car to your liking...every combination of parts on a car will reveal different dyno readings. A dyno should only be used to compare 'before and after' changes and the main perspective on tunning should be you driving the car

And CAI+RBC > ITB in teggy

Silly question to most but doesnt the air gets hotter anyway as it travels through the intake manifold?, i did have a CAI on my car (DC2) but it was still as hot as a BBQ at the manifold & felt no difference.

While we're on that note, im actually neutral for both CAI & SRI as most of us here use our cars on the street not the tracks (unless a small amount of idiots here think street=tracks)

In that case Nuci, people say go with CAI then go with it, scrap those SRI for all aspects of the powerband torque and outright power....LOL

[EVLGTR]

I saw intake temps up to 65 degrees on my scanguage when idling in traffic during the brisbane summer with an SRI. Temps while moving were generally 10 to 20 degrees above ambient temp i.e 40-50 degrees.

My new CAI is generally 0-5 degrees or so above ambient when when moving. Temps also stay much cooler in traffic and it is also alot faster to cool down once you are moving again. Dont think I ever saw it get much above 40 degrees.

The gain that comes from using a CAI is the lack of heatsoak for sure.
The noise an SRI makes is a bit better tho IMO, thats all.

Bro, we're driving a Naturally Aspirated car, how do you think Forced Induction cars feel in summer?....their engine gets hotter than ours.
If you see the temp going up with an SRI, it would still be within range of normal operating temp right?....you only need to worry if your engine overheats!

[TypeS]

Heatsoak is an urban fanboy myth.

It is primarily, used as a justification, to wasting more money, on an otherwise powerless 2.0L N.A.

Some say, if you use it, you might actually obstruct the engine from air, and that the tube itself can reach temperatures of 600ºC.

All I know is, it’s called the SRI, and to argue against fanboys is a riot.

[Nighthawk_S]

I wasnt refering to the engine running temp, I was refering to the temperature of the air going actually being sucked into the engine as it passes the IAT sensor. As you should know, the colder the air the more power you will retain. Hence the reason a turbocharged car uses an intercooler.

Any car, NA or turbo will benefit from colder air going in to the engine, which, as my original post explained, is gained on a DC5 by using some form of CAI.

This is all basic stuff, dont mean to state the obvious here...

[Lowiez]

Silly question to most but doesnt the air gets hotter anyway as it travels through the intake manifold?, i did have a CAI on my car (DC2) but it was still as hot as a BBQ at the manifold & felt no difference.

While we're on that note, im actually neutral for both CAI & SRI as most of us here use our cars on the street not the tracks (unless a small amount of idiots here think street=tracks)

In that case Nuci, people say go with CAI then go with it, scrap those SRI for all aspects of the powerband torque and outright power....LOL

Why would it get too much hotter running past a throttle body butterfly valve? and even if it did keeping it air tempreture low would still be just as important.
ie 50deg+20deg=70. 30deg+20deg=50


Bro, we're driving a Naturally Aspirated car, how do you think Forced Induction cars feel in summer?....their engine gets hotter than ours.
If you see the temp going up with an SRI, it would still be within range of normal operating temp right?....you only need to worry if your engine overheats!

+1 for intercooler
Of course your car could operate with it...but wouldn't you prefer to keep it down, if keeping it down meant more effiecient combustion and higher (even if slightly) power figures


Heatsoak is an urban fanboy myth.

It is primarily, used as a justification, to wasting more money, on an otherwise powerless 2.0L N.A.

Some say, if you use it, you might actually obstruct the engine from air, and that the tube itself can reach temperatures of 600ºC.

All I know is, it’s called the SRI, and to argue against fanboys is a riot.

Um...heatsoak is a myth? being a fanboy has nothing to do with a well known and proven effect of running a open pod next to the engine. Sorta like saying wheel spin for FWD is a myth for honda fanboys up hills.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=237451&highlight=cai+vs+sri
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=437687
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=344745
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=722720&highlight=heatsoak
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=720526&highlight=heatsoak
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?119200-DC5-CAI-such-as-injen-VS.-podfilter&highlight=heatsoak

Theres alot more. Do your research don't spread false information...

[TypeS]

Um...heatsoak is a myth? being a fanboy has nothing to do with a well known and proven effect of running a open pod next to the engine. Sorta like saying wheel spin for FWD is a myth for honda fanboys up hills.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=237451&highlight=cai+vs+sri
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=437687
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=344745
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=722720&highlight=heatsoak
http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=720526&highlight=heatsoak
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?119200-DC5-CAI-such-as-injen-VS.-podfilter&highlight=heatsoak


Heatsoak is a myth, in the sense, it's falsely exaggerated.

Now I usually don't share my knowledge online, but I'll make an exception.

You’ve quoted mis-represented crsx threads, written by peer-pressure prone 17 year olds, and then, you're telling me to do “research” ?

Son I have written a whole thesis in Air intake systems/design.

As part of my thesis I evaluated, a typical CAI (Injen), a Ram Intake (Gruppe M) , a SRI (Apexi), and the Stock Airbox, all on the platform I’m running, a DC5.

Now, none of this testing involved a dyno. That’s right absolute Zilch. Why?

Dyno’s ignore aerodynamics, that K-mart Fan placed in front, is hardly any form of replication of the “Real World”.

Now how did I test you say?

First let’s take a quick lesson in Air Systems design 101.

Since we are dealing with air, how effective an intake will perform, will be based on primarily, how restrictive it is. In simpler terms, how quickly, and how much of it, can get from A to B, it's as simple as that,

Further onto that, there are 3 typical important parameters;

Intake Design

The foremost important feature of the intake. Too many people are obsessed with intake temperatures and overlook one of the most fundamental elements of the intake, the design.

If your CAI is restrictive as a Mcdonald’s Straw, it’s not going to matter zilch, how much cold air you’ll pull.

The two most important components in this case are; Rate of flow and Volume of flow, which are most often than not, ignored in the haste of putting the filter near the bumper.

Intake Temperatures-

The second most important feature of the intake. Everything is going to heatsoak, that’s right everything, from the stock intake to the carbon fibre gruppe and to the tin tubes of the CAI and SRI.
Some will do, more than others, but truth be told, the intake should not be judged on this alone.

Filter Surface Area

The final important feature of an intake. The greater the surface area, the greater the flow. It’s simple as that.


Now to the testing side of things.


Intake Design;

Now to determine, how restrictive an intake is. The most successful way is to hook up a Manometer on the intake, at different positions, to measure the pressure drop. The greater the pressure drop, more restrictive the intake.

It’s a very simple concept, which can be applied in the real world conditions, and will give you FAR more accurate results than any dyno could. Why?

Because you’re measuring the pressure drop whilst the car is moving. Not when it’s sitting in front of a fan.

I’m only going to present a brief summary of my findings. Data acquisition was conducted for a number of weeks in adverse conditions/climates. And hence I have loads of figures. I used a digital manometer sensitive range of 0 +/-30psi

For the purpose of the results below, pressure was measured at the, entrance of the intake (before the filter) and just before the throttle body, hence it will be an average aggregate of both. The following results are from testing conducted on a 21C day.

Pressure was measured at 60km/h and at 100km/h

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/9762/pressuredrops.jpg

All intakes registered a negative pressure drop, stock intake was the worst, Apexi SRI was the best.


Temperature

Temperature was measured using a led probe placed at the entrance of the throttle body.

Again this was conducted on a 21C day at at idle, 60km/h and at 100km/h


http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/7199/temperatureh.jpg

*Idle After 20 mins driving

Verdicts:

Stock Airbox- The DC5 stock airbox is a restrictive masterpiece. The need to reduce noise and increase filtration has resulted in numerous bends and weaves within the air box. Hence the need for the Hondata Mod.

It was the worst faring intake for the DC5 in design and temperature; Calls for it to be superior to a SRI are ludicrous at best.

Apexi SRI- Has a simple, air flowing design, and hence restriction is greatly reduced.
However does suffer from heat at lower speeds. This combined with the unrestrictive nature of the intake, does not necessarily make it a bad intake, as many make it out to believe.

Injen Cai- The drawback from achieving the coolest air, is at a price, to the design. The necessity of the long, curvy tubing results in a reduced volume of air, as well as throttle response. Furthermore air can be even cooler, if placed at the front centre of the car, to benefit from the lowest pressure system available.

Gruppe M- Has a good balance of design, as well as temperature. The design is not perfect, due to the bend from the windshield into the bonnet. However this did not seem to have a great deal of effect, as it was still able to induce a good volume of air. Air temperatures were closer to CAI and hence has a good balance of both.


In summary SRI is not the devil it’s made out to be. From the vague accounts online, no-one can be even sure, if the author has ever, even cleaned the filter, or has even installed it properly.

Yes the SRI suffers from heat, but it more then makes up for it in design. Hence should not be judged alone on air temperature.

Having said that, after finishing my thesis, I could easily understand the Gruppe M’s price tag. If you test it properly and actually understand how it performs.


Theres alot more. Do your research don't spread false information...


To answer your last statement, No I don’t spread false information. My observations and opinions are from testing I have conducted.

I believe 90% of information on the internet is inaccurate, mis-represented and exaggerated.

Do your own testing and make up your own mind.

Like you, I’m entitled to an opinion, only difference is, mine is backed by my own testing, rather than some Joe blog, posting on crsx.

[EVLGTR]

+1 for intercooler
Of course your car could operate with it...but wouldn't you prefer to keep it down, if keeping it down meant more effiecient combustion and higher (even if slightly) power figures

Even if its a slight gain, for my daily street use?...ummm...no thanks, CAI are expensive & SRI dont do as much for me....I'd rather stay with OEM intakes. Im here to keep my car DC2R running in an excellent condition, we're talking in-the-long-run like 10 years.
I said it here bro, im neutral to this sort of mods since ive tried both setup in the past.

@TypeS Reading your point of view, the summary is quiet good. The topic here is CAI vs SRI as most people agree CAI is better, SRI is just as good if you remove the "heat" issue & yeh its not the devil it turned out to be....

to simplify what you said i guess Volumetric air is just as important as ambient temperature.

[Nighthawk_S]

Impressive testing. I did my own testing of a CAI, SRI and stock airbox but with temperature only. It would be good to know whether the pressure drop or high temperatures provide the most impact on the output of the engine? (at 100km/h 8 cm H2O more flow or 7 degrees cooler, which is best?) Is it best to have a compriomise like the gruppeM which has a lower pressure drop than an Injen, but keeps the temperature under control well also? (I would use a gruppeM but for the $$$). Also, out of intrest, how long did you leave the car at idle in your testing? As my car is street driven only and Brisbane summers can be quite hot, the extended effect of engine bay heat on an SRI (up to 65 degrees) on a hot day swayed my decision to change to an injen. I think for the kind of driving i do, i would benefit more of the time than a better flowing but hotter intake.

[Nuci]

Ok so in summary, am i better off leaving my SRI on the car or changing to the Injen CAI? If I can fit some ducting to the car to allow maximum possible air into the engine bay, Is this my best option? Or still go Injen? (GruppeM is out of my price range)

[Nighthawk_S]

In my opinion, for street driving, the Injen or equivalent is the go. Just watch the deep puddles.

[Nuci]

I guess like most people have said, ill need to actually drive the car with both in order to see for myself. But for $400 its worth it. When I get it fitted ill post on here what i think. This has been a pretty informative thread. Sticky maybe?

[TypeS]

Impressive testing. I did my own testing of a CAI, SRI and stock airbox but with temperature only. It would be good to know whether the pressure drop or high temperatures provide the most impact on the output of the engine? (at 100km/h 8 cm H2O more flow or 7 degrees cooler, which is best?) Is it best to have a compriomise like the gruppeM which has a lower pressure drop than an Injen, but keeps the temperature under control well also? (I would use a gruppeM but for the $$$). Also, out of intrest, how long did you leave the car at idle in your testing? As my car is street driven only and Brisbane summers can be quite hot, the extended effect of engine bay heat on an SRI (up to 65 degrees) on a hot day swayed my decision to change to an injen. I think for the kind of driving i do, i would benefit more of the time than a better flowing but hotter intake.


Ok so in summary, am i better off leaving my SRI on the car or changing to the Injen CAI? If I can fit some ducting to the car to allow maximum possible air into the engine bay, Is this my best option? Or still go Injen? (GruppeM is out of my price range).



Pressure was measured on idle at intervals of 5 min up to 15 mins.

Flow and temperature go hand in hand, and vary from one application to another.

For instance if your in hot summer weather, driving in constant stop and go traffic, you will be silly to go with SRI.

At low speeds the SRI, simply cannot cool down as fast.

On the flip side, CAI will be restricted too by its, design at low speeds. Due to this, it simply cannot induce enough volume of air at low speeds 10-50km/h.

However after the speed increases and the pressure increases, greater volumes of air will be induced, at a cooler temperature, resulting in greater performance.

The most effective intake in this situation would be a RAM-AIR. It will provide good performance at low speeds, whilst not heating up like a SRI.

If you were a drag racer, or a traffic light warrior, CAI will be the prime candidate. You will achieve the most power.

If you lived out in the hills in a cooler climate, you will enjoy the instant response and the extra airflow from a SRI, as it would not heat up as much up at high speeds, and you will enjoy the un-hindered performance in the corners.

If you were a track racer, you will definitely enjoy the most performance from a RAM-Air intake, as temperatures will be down, and throttle response accelerating out of corners will be exquisite. Having said that, you could most likely do, away with a few laps on the SRI. I haven’t done any testing out on track, so I cannot say.

Now when you mis-match each of these intakes, without their intended purposes, you will see people, scream heatsoak or other useless nonsense. That's when all the countless threads are created.

Anyway I am very impressed with the performance of the RAM-Air intake such as Gruppe, as it gives a perfect balance, between flow and temperature.

Sure the price you pay is a premium, but you will gain close to the best of both worlds, which the tin tubes cannot provide.

Sorry for the long responses but I'm sick of people disregarding certain intakes, when they're e not even using it for the intended purposes.

[Nuci]

Well your few responses have given me the info i was after. Much appreciated. I think ill go the Injen. However if i can stretch the budget enough ill go the GruppeM

[Lowiez]

I believe 90% of information on the internet is inaccurate, mis-represented and exaggerated.

If you don't believe more than 10% of the information on these forums are accurate than why are you on here?..


To answer your last statement, No I don’t spread false information. My observations and opinions are from testing I have conducted.

My first response was and still is based on your original post which appeared to be one of the 'peer-pressure prone 17 year olds' creations and was not supported by research.
Good on you for writting your whole thesis but that had nothing to do with what I said to you and quoting you information on the topic from CRSX. That of course, was me assuming you haven't done any actual research and I'm sure given your perspective on 90% of the information here being false, you can understand that assumption.

Yes you are entitled to your opinion as is anyone else but its hard not to question it without seeing your research as it is a pretty big call.
And in saying that, what you've done is pretty impressive and its not common at all you see something like that, and I wouldn't have taken you for someone who didn't know what they were talking about if I saw that first.

But..


Now, none of this testing involved a dyno. That’s right absolute Zilch. Why?

Dyno’s ignore aerodynamics, that K-mart Fan placed in front, is hardly any form of replication of the “Real World”.

It's true that a dyno doesnt entirely take into account aerodynamics (the fan does offset that a bit but) but what you are looking at is the design of each intake, essentially the R&D and whilst this is obviously crucial it is more relavant if you wanted to make your own rather than compare it.
Every part combination on every individual dyno will be different. But a efficient dyno use, is used for tunning, not comparing outright power fiures, alternating intakes and putting them on your car setup will give you a good indication what works for your setup. Not including dyno figures is ignoring the final product and how it works....many things work in theory but not in your 'real world conditions'.

If you included a measured power output, which would show the success of the individual application to a DC5 which takes into account all other variables within the setup and condition of the car, it would be perfect. This is because it would show the actual effect of the increased airflow with a SRI keeping in mind the offset of efficiency due to higher tempretures.

A dyno will reveal your torque and power curves which will show you how it performs and its possible intended purpose, and give you a picture to show that instead of speculating on how the design will perform.
Dyno figures should be supplemented by your research or vice versa.

Numbers and figures show for those who are interested, what speculation and feel can't.

In your research, as you even said, you're making your own mind up. Thats speculation and subject to bias.
Dyno figures (for what works on your car and whether it is a backwards or forward step), track times (for power band/intended use), and 1/4mile times (for power). A manometer and a led probe won't tell you those things nearly as well.
Those are numbers which will tell you what works. And in performing those tests you will also feel what is good for your application.
This information is avaiable all over the forums and not subject to exaggeration when not fudged, as they are numbers.

This is the way that tunners in F1, sprints, drags or whatever will tune their cars and choose part combinations, including a choice of intake.
What you've done is very good information...but more relevant to R&D and production of the intake which does help with choice but shouldn't be used entirely as it ignores the final package and how it works with the car and parts setup.

So:


Son I have written a whole thesis in Air intake systems/design.
- dyno, lap times and 1/4mile times are available on the internet and provide good enough information to know whats best for your own application, doing your own research like that is good but not necessary. Not everyone has the time

- this is a acceptable way of tunning for all performance shops which focus on performance
- in your research you have proven heatsoak exists rather than being a myth, but dont have a measurable conclusion to how it affects power gains. That's not consistent as you have numbers for everything else...So how can you discount it and regard it is a 'ubarn legend'
- although you have shown that SRI>stock because SRI has both lower temps and more airflow than stock. This can't be said for any of the other available comparason

Joe blog didn't help me come to this conclusion.
And this isn't a go at you or your research

[Timmy_B]

^^^^^ i say we make what lowiez has said and make that a sticky thread^^^^
how many bloody times do people ask this question and never do a search.

+ 1 for lowie and + 1 to make this a sticky.

[munkaii]

Sorry to knock an old thread on but I've just had a read of all the information present here and it is a possible thesis area I want to delve into. In summary, would I be right in thinking that TypeS's thesis, as described by Lowiez looks at the pressure drop and temperature differences to gauge "which works best" in theory and concludes that SRI and CAI have both their advantages and drawbacks and thus, the effects of heatsoak are minimised via design.

What his thesis does not discuss is the effect on overall performance. i.e. does the design advantages overcome heatsoak loss etc.

I might go speak to some supervisors and consider furthering my research in this area, but I think an area of research I want to look for as well is other means of reducing air intake temperature (e.g. Hondata IM Gasket which for a piece of high temp plastic does a lot).

These sorts of discussion are what OH should be more about!

[TypeS]

Sorry to knock an old thread on but I've just had a read of all the information present here and it is a possible thesis area I want to delve into. In summary, would I be right in thinking that TypeS's thesis, as described by Lowiez looks at the pressure drop and temperature differences to gauge "which works best" in theory and concludes that SRI and CAI have both their advantages and drawbacks and thus, the effects of heatsoak are minimised via design.

What his thesis does not discuss is the effect on overall performance. i.e. does the design advantages overcome heatsoak loss etc.

I might go speak to some supervisors and consider furthering my research in this area, but I think an area of research I want to look for as well is other means of reducing air intake temperature (e.g. Hondata IM Gasket which for a piece of high temp plastic does a lot).

These sorts of discussion are what OH should be more about!

You would first need to define, “Overall Performance”. For me, “Overall Performance” would be Circuit times and ¼ mile times. For some (like CRSX Intake Shootout) it would simply be the higher number on the dyno. After understanding aerodynamics, I can safely say a dyno will not give you a representative measurement of this, “Overall Performance”. Of course there will be people who will continue to disagree.

Frankly I would have loved to include this in the thesis, but you would not believe how difficult it is to control all of the variables.

Each intake type is designed for a specific application; hence you would need to evaluate all possible conditions and applications.

I had enough trouble sourcing in the intakes, let alone having the resources of hiring a professional track and driver for multiple days.

To acquire a full performance profile of the intakes you would need to;

Conduct time trial testing (Circuit,1/4 mile) on all intakes, in a variety of conditions; cool, hot, humid, high altitude etc.

Furthermore you would need to replicate at least one condition on another track with a different layout and surface, for data validation.

Just to do this alone, you’re looking at hiring a professional track and driver for a minimum of 5 days.

Keep in mind, all these expenses are coming from my back pocket. If I was getting sponsored to do this, heck I would include it in a heartbeat.

But if you have the resources to do it, you’ve got my support :thumbsup: