Rebuild D16A8/ DOHC ZC

[xclusive_eg8]

So I finally got my D16A8 today :) , but its got 300xxxkm on the engine :(

so was thinking about rebuilding the bottom end - for reasurance and to bump up compression

But my issue is, what do you think is worth changing?? was thinking rods,pistons,rings, all gaskets
But:
Engine idles fine, revs fine no odd sounds, no smoke

Maybe im crazy, but just like being sure about what i have and not hanging out for it to go bang one day....

And NO I wont do a B series swap cause i am on P's ;)

[JDM-EGG]

lol u are able to drive a b series if ur a p plater ? LOLOL

[xclusive_eg8]

so a B series into a 1995 EG Civic is fine?? check your facts bud

[dougie_504]

Depends on where you live. Can't mod your car in some places, yeah?

Do a leak-down test on your D-series to see how the bottom end is holding up if you're worried about its condition. If it's fine then I suggest you don't do anything, if it ain't broke don't fix it. But yeah if it revs fine, runs smooth, no strange sounds and isn't blowing grey/blue smoke then it's probably healthy. A D-series can easily do over 300,000 KMs if it's maintained well, driven calmly, only hammered when warm, clean oil etc. One of the blokes in CRXAustralia has a D16A8 with well over 400,000 KMs that has never been rebuilt, still going strong too.

It's not worth modding it either and if you want reliability I honestly still think the best thing you could do financially is just let it go til it dies, then buy another. That's the beauty of the D!

[~Sp33~]

If it's fine then I suggest you don't do anything, if it ain't broke don't fix it.

:thumbsup:

When it breaks, fix it then.

[xclusive_eg8]

Yeah but my thing is that I have no idea how if has been maintained and nothing i drive gets a "calm drive" on open road, I know there is not much support for D series in Aus but over in US there are crazy N/A D series. Aim is for approx 100FWHP. Was gona rip of head drop some stage 2 cams in mill head abit and thinner head gasket but yeah seriously undecided on what I plan on doing to this engine.

Just after a bit more power/torque and a nice lumpy cam sounding pig :) getting sick of thrashing a stock stock dseries non vtec everyday

[~Sp33~]

The fact that it's running smooth with no smoke at 300,000kms should be testament to how it's been serviced.

By all means put in a thinner gasket, i would recommend new head studs while you're at it. Really though, if you were to replace all seals/rings/gaskets etc you would be spending more than if you just ran it into the ground the way it is and then buy another D, or replace the failed item.

[dougie_504]

^

As above.

100HP that's like 74.6KW ATW? That's achievable with CAI, headers, cat and cat-back bro. No need for this engine building crap mate, waste of time and money IMO.

[xclusive_eg8]

Makes sense lol. Mmm so. What shall I replace?? If you had let's say $500 to replace Things on the engine it self what would it be?

Still keen for cams but that shall come later on. Btw are new billet cams heaps better than stock regrinds or what?

I shall most defs replace head gasket, water pump, timing belt, head bolts. But mm what else is worth changing for piece of mind?

[markismaximus]

Makes sense lol. Mmm so. What shall I replace?? If you had let's say $500 to replace Things on the engine it self what would it be?

Still keen for cams but that shall come later on. Btw are new billet cams heaps better than stock regrinds or what?

I shall most defs replace head gasket, water pump, timing belt, head bolts. But mm what else is worth changing for piece of mind?

if you replace these items ---> water pump, timing belt (with idler pulley etc) with genuine items you wont have much left from $500 I'd say. I'm pretty sure a WP from honda is about $240 from memory.

Some non-genuine prices, one marked with **** are a guess

water pump - $80-100

belt with idler pulley - $100

head gasket - $100-150****

ARP head studs - $100 US (not including postage and not sure if you can even get them for D16A8)***

There's $500 and doesn't include stuff like

sparkplugs
new ignition leads
replacement oil seals
new ancillary belts
hoses that are going to require replacing
new clutch (nows the best time to replace it)
flywheel machining
new flywheel bolts (if required)
new CVs and/or Boots (nows the best time to replace it)
any damaged engine mounts

just to name a few :p

[~Sp33~]

Those ARP head studs are difficult to come by for a d16a8 from what i've heard. If you call them they will quote you with a part number, but apparently they don't sit very deep in the head (from what i read on www.thezcr.com.

[markismaximus]

Those ARP head studs are difficult to come by for a d16a8 from what i've heard. If you call them they will quote you with a part number, but apparently they don't sit very deep in the head (from what i read on www.thezcr.com.

I wasn't sure if ARP even manufactured parts for the d16a8. I was more just using that as a price indication. handy to know anyway if OP happens

[xclusive_eg8]

Yeah I been reading up on the bolts too and mmm looks like Ima go OEM for less hastle. But yeah Thanks MARK ;) gave me a bit more things to swap than even I thought about. Havnt ripped engine out of the chassis yet so mm it's not fully inspected. But in the mean while - while I wait for the engine hoist. I might as well build a list of what I might have to replace and get some quotes.

Feel free to add more stuff to the list!!

Btw what would be the best clutch for hard street driving? Still need my girl to drive it, so not to harsh just something bit stronger than OEM

If I go for lightened flywheel what would be best weight to stick with?

Worth replacing the bushes on engine mounts?

[~Sp33~]

The replacement Exedy heavy duty clutches are supposed to be 25% stronger than stock, from what i was reading when i bought mine.

[dougie_504]

Yeah, Exedy Heavy Duty will do the trick - but don't mistreat your clutch. Street driving generally shouldn't be 'hard' right?

If you get a new clutch (even if your current one isn't showing any signs of wear lol) make sure you get a D16A8 one. The D16A8 and ZC clutch are not interchangeable.


Otherwise, get a leak-down test! If your main concern is reliability then you should do this!.
Also IMO if your engine isn't showing signs of internal or transmission wear then don't take it out! Leave it in and don't open it up.


Also, what are you budgeting for this? It sounds like you want a very sound daily driver with a bit of extra power that your girlfriend can drive hard on the street?
The reason I ask this last question is that you've bought a D16A8 with over 300k KMs on it (so I assume it was like $300-500) and you're planning to spend a few thousand on parts alone, no labour.


If I were you I'd only consider the timing belt/water pump at this stage - to be safe and reliable.
If the GBox isn't crunching, isn't slipping, and is engaging and shifting well then don't worry.
If the engine revs fine, sounds good and feels right (and performs appropriately in a leak-down test) then don't worry.
If you want extra power do a good cold air feed to the bottom of your stock box. Source a cheap header (N*Power, 2nd hand XForce etc), a cheap high-flow cat, and get yourself a custom-made cat-back. Then you'll reach your 100HP ATW more or less. A tune-up afterward would be even better.

[xclusive_eg8]

Lol I loose my license for 6 months anyways so got heaps of time to play with the engine. Just tryin to get most of the bottom end/gearbox stuff done while the engine is out of the EH Si awaiting swap in my EG8....... Mainly after a nice reliable, lumpy cam, D16A8 with a bit more power than stock. The main things that are swapped every 100KM are timing belt-water pump and maybe head gasket-then fluids and oil filter any how.

Questions:

Best thinner head gasket?

Btw I been reading up a bit on the D16A8/9 and a few forums say B16 cam gears and timing belt can be used with this engine. Anyone know more?

[dougie_504]

I wouldn't be certain, but I doubt it re: cam gears and belt.

Head gasket is not changed every 100k KMs, and I already stated that if I were you I'd do belt and pump.

Do your I/H/E before you mess with camshafts. You can just pop off the top of the engine after it's installed to change them so don't be in any rush.

Otherwise I have an exedy HD clutch for the D16A8 with a good 70% meat on it if you're interested. It's wearing fine and coming out of a healthy box.

[xclusive_eg8]

Ok so looks like I'm changing timing belt- water pump-clutch for now. What else?

Then once engine is in, IHE

And later on drop some cams in, head Port and polish, head milled a bit, thinner Head gasket and maybe maybe cam gears and then a nice tune.

[~Sp33~]

Btw I been reading up a bit on the D16A8/9 and a few forums say B16 cam gears and timing belt can be used with this engine. Anyone know more?

Yeah you can use B16 cam gears, from memory though, the timing marks aren't correct, i think they power 1 tooth off. But you can still use them.

Not 100% on the belt, i keep thinking 3rd gen prelude b20... hmm



If you get a new clutch (even if your current one isn't showing any signs of wear lol) make sure you get a D16A8 one. The D16A8 and ZC clutch are not interchangeable.

Erm, really? I'm pretty sure they are. Just make sure your spline count is the same (87 and 88 models will have a different spline count)

[xclusive_eg8]

Mmmm interesting. Why u thinking b20 belt?? Apparantly the b16 belt is like 2mm wider than the stock d16a8 belt so it feels the cam gears a bit better

What u mean the gears are 1 power tooth off??

[dougie_504]

Ok so looks like I'm changing timing belt- water pump-clutch for now. What else?

Then once engine is in, IHE

And later on drop some cams in, head Port and polish, head milled a bit, thinner Head gasket and maybe maybe cam gears and then a nice tune.


Nothing else unless you need it.

I/H/E is a great investment, but just stick away from big-brands. They're not worth the extra dosh in a D-series.

Cams can be done later easily. If you want to do a port/polish job, you'll need to have the ports matched to your new header and current intake manifold - so you'll need the new header first and this should be done before you drop the engine in so you don't have to pull the head off later - much easier. Same with head mill.

[dougie_504]

Maybe you're right, on second though I think all DOHC D-series might be interchangeable. I was under the impression they were not interchangeable because my mate had one for a EF7 CRX with the ZC and it was not able to fit the AUDM D16A8.

Might be the year of production as you mentioned.

[Spoon-Accord]

while you are changing the timing belt and water pump, change all the seals aswell,
due to wear and old age, it's best to change the main seals, oil seals etc etc. it will save you alot of money and sleepness nights.
do as much as you can, whilst the engine is out, cause if you put it back in and it leaks oil or something else that requires stripping half of the engine bay to get to.

as for the JDM and AUDM clutches, they are both different clutches, one is a tad bigger, more spline count etc etc

best to rip your old one out and bring it with you to the place where your purchasing the clutch so they car match it for you.

if there's any other question's feel free to ask or pm me

kenny

[xclusive_eg8]

Yeah mate that's what I wana do change as much as I can while engine is out. The head work can come later

so what else should I replace?? OEM Honda is pretty strong but hey if aftermarket is cheaper and better then yeah aftermarket it is. Engine shall be out tomorrow :) so will defs open it up and cheak how much of a slut the 17 year old as been lol. But yeah popped off spark plugs today and the leads and plugs where covered in oil so yeah headgasket is needed

[~Sp33~]

while you are changing the timing belt and water pump, change all the seals aswell,
due to wear and old age, it's best to change the main seals, oil seals etc etc. it will save you alot of money and sleepness nights.
do as much as you can, whilst the engine is out, cause if you put it back in and it leaks oil or something else that requires stripping half of the engine bay to get to.

Why would you have the engine out to do a timing belt?


as for the JDM and AUDM clutches, they are both different clutches, one is a tad bigger, more spline count etc etc

Really? Where'd you see that?

[dougie_504]

Yeah mate that's what I wana do change as much as I can while engine is out. The head work can come later

so what else should I replace?? OEM Honda is pretty strong but hey if aftermarket is cheaper and better then yeah aftermarket it is. Engine shall be out tomorrow :) so will defs open it up and cheak how much of a slut the 17 year old as been lol. But yeah popped off spark plugs today and the leads and plugs where covered in oil so yeah headgasket is needed


If the plugs are covered in oil couldn't that be your spark plug seals? Take off your valve cover and inspect the circular seals that sit between the head and the valve cover and encompass the spark plug.
I had oil on my plugs in my B16A and this was the issue. They're cheap to replace with OEMs. Don't use a gasket-glue/silicone product to seal it.

[xclusive_eg8]

Btw all d series A/C stuff is the same right?? The D16a8 didn't come with A/C stuff so will be using my D15 stuffs :).

Shall I replace oil pump while I'm at it?

Where in the hell can I find bolt torque specs for this engine yo been searching for ages and everyone has there own shiiizzzzzz
Mmm can't wait to crack it all open and have a look though

[~Sp33~]

Torque specs for anything in particular?

[xclusive_eg8]

Head studs, tappets, timing tentioner. Etc

just torque specs for whole engine would be good, il probs just go over everything just to be sure

[~Sp33~]

Head studs, tappets, timing tentioner. Etc

just torque specs for whole engine would be good, il probs just go over everything just to be sure

Head studs - 66 NM
Rocker arm lock nut - 25 NM
Timing Tensioner - 45 NM

[xclusive_eg8]

Yeah where did u get that from?? Anymore specs?

[~Sp33~]

I don't feel like typing them all out, but if there's something specific you need, let me know.