EG Disk Brakes - Installing issues

[xclusive_eg8]

Civic

Ok I finally got some rear disk brakes from an EH Si for my EG8, but the thing is that its been sitting out in the elements for some time..So I stripped it all down today the rotors are in need of machining.. Anyways I loostened all bolts to get caliper assembly off and had to pretty much hammer it off the rotors cause it was rusted/still pushed on rotor.

I pulled it all apart and discovered that the piston is not fully down, its still pushing the pad onto the rotor ( on both L&R set ups)

so the question is - How to I get that piston all the way down so i dont have to hammer on/stuff my new pads??

btw how much would complete new bushes cost for both L&R set ups??

[OMG.JAI xD]

It should be a twist on (or twist in, is the correct term) type of caliper. Like most rear calipers are, since the that is where the handbrake is usually applied, this design keeps the piston as close to the brake pad as possible as wear effects it, so your handbrake travel is not affected.

Anyway. With an old caliper I do recommend taking care, as the components have not moved for some time. And it not being connected to any source of fluids, who knows what the condition is like internally.
My best advice is to get a rebuild kit for it.

However. You could go ahead with reusing what you got. Just lubricate everything. IE. Pour a touch of brake fluid into the supply line. Let it sit for say a few seconds, then go ahead with winding the piston in. Usually you can just use long nose pliers, and wind it in clockwise, like what youd do with tightening a bolt. If it goes in easily, beautiful, winna winna chicken dinna. But if it gets very hard and starts to seize, you have a problem.

[xclusive_eg8]

yeah its been out of car for about 3 weeks now, but prior to that the car was hard parked for about 2 months, there is still drops of fluid inside, but hard to turn

[xclusive_eg8]

..........

[jdm_b16a]

Strip the calipers completely and rebuild. As said, you adjust the tension on the piston by screwing it in/out. [See Item 9 in the diagram below]

There is a special tool for this but a very large screwdriver will do it. It will fight you, but it will eventually loosen up. The only problem you may have is rust in the bores. Do a visual check when you have them out - if you have brake fluid in the chamber then you should be ok. Also, you could loosen the bleed nipple to get better pressure on the piston but be careful of squirting brake fluid - have plenty of rags handy, brake cleaner, and wear safety glasses.

http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa/images/illustration/11/725409.png

Peter

[xclusive_eg8]

I shall have a play with them tomorrow, Is a rebuild on the piston recommended at all?? Dunno when last one was done; but in saying that, I know for a fact that these brakes where fully working on a RWC only 4 months ago

[jdm_b16a]

I shall have a play with them tomorrow, Is a rebuild on the piston recommended at all?? Dunno when last one was done; but in saying that, I know for a fact that these brakes where fully working on a RWC only 4 months ago

You should be okay. However, just because the car was RWC doesn't mean the brakes are. When they do a brake check its the fronts that do nearly all the work. The machine they use checks the force required to pull the car up and measures 'g' forces and probably stopping distance. But, again, you should be okay.

Peter

[xclusive_eg8]

Ahhh some of the god damn stupid ass non hardened flare nuts on the prop valve and brake master have kept slipping my flare nut spanner so I used some vice grips and they still slipping past. It's ****ing annoying and WD40 + a little blow torch action ain't doing anything Anyone got another plan of attack??