View Full Version : Tach jumping in my dC2R
I though the tacg going crazy when you hit VTEC was normal, but my friend who was drving said no - it should be a smooth process where the needle just speeds up.
What happens is that when I hit VTEC, the needle just starts to jump all over the place, and will sometimes do a 360, and go past the 10K RPM mark. Otherwise the car drives fine.
Anyone know what this could be, and if its a cheap and quick fix?
B18cEG
09-08-2010, 10:07 AM
Check the grounding wired in the engine bay, they should all be bolted down with a 10mm bolt on the thermostat housing is the main one, also there is a grounding strap from the chassis to the gearbox, check them and let me know how it goes.
Ah so somethign as simple as a ground? I ordered a grounding kit and voltage controller the other day, so that might fix it?
Zilli
09-08-2010, 10:37 AM
not necessarily... if you dont have a solid grounding point now, adding something more isnt going to be enough
i remember in my N13 pulsar i had this issue, its was an ingition module issue in the dizzy.. but yeh that was a different car altogether
Thanks guys. Will check at lunch at take a pic too
beeza
09-08-2010, 11:21 AM
Run the grounding kit and I recommend to changing the 2 grounding straps,they are only 10 bucks for a fat one from supacheap.
The voltage controller wont do much if ya running a hi voltage grounding kit but worth putting it on and take it off after a couple of weeks and see if U notice a change :)
Ok there is a grounding wire that looks kinda old and rusty lol, from the engine to the front, on of the radiator
nickk
09-08-2010, 03:15 PM
lolol guarantee you it's the plug for the vss. have a look at the top of your gearbox, on the left of the IM. push it right down and it might fix it.
LANCEEG
09-08-2010, 03:23 PM
lolol guarantee you it's the plug for the vss. have a look at the top of your gearbox, on the left of the IM. push it right down and it might fix it.
+1
something else to check out
had a similar issue while ago except it wasn't jus when vtec
also happened when roads were bumpy n cornering harder then normal
replaced vss.all good now
guys im new to hondas - whats a VSS? and whats an IM? someone show me a pic showing what to do?
RR-04-RR
09-08-2010, 03:36 PM
VSS - Vehicle Speed sensor
IM- Intake manifold
this is what the VSS looks like
http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/9650/50299172.jpg
AH ok so tighten those screws and it might fix it?
vinnY
09-08-2010, 04:37 PM
i'll go with ignitor module thingo (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?68166-B-Series-Ignitor-Ignition-Module&highlight=tacho)
even a video of what happens here (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?68166-B-Series-Ignitor-Ignition-Module&p=1271584&viewfull=1#post1271584)
nickk
09-08-2010, 04:50 PM
VSS - vehicle speed sensor
IM - Intake manifold
Just try unplugging the wires and plugging back in and pushing down hard, if it fixes it temporarily, its just the plug that needs changing.
If its still fkd, then it probs needs a new vss.
U gotta change that shit asap, if your hitting ridiculous speeds randomly, your clocking up extra k's for nothing.
vinnY
09-08-2010, 04:53 PM
is it me or is everyone missing the fact that the tacho is out of whack, not the speedo?
only zilli seems to be on the ball
LANCEEG
09-08-2010, 05:19 PM
Oops my bad didn't read op's post properly :s
Sorry guys
grifty
09-08-2010, 09:17 PM
is it me or is everyone missing the fact that the tacho is out of whack, not the speedo?
only zilli seems to be on the ball
had the exact same problem in my car except the tacho would go crazy over like 2.5k rpm, sure enough it turned out to be the ignition module....
i put my money on a fault ignition module
Thing is the car runs perfectly otherwise.
Did some testing, so the needle is smooth till about 7500-8000rpm, and from there it jumos and goes straight to 10 000RPM.
If the ignition module was stuffed surely it would drive like crap?
grifty
09-08-2010, 11:08 PM
Thing is the car runs perfectly otherwise.
Did some testing, so the needle is smooth till about 7500-8000rpm, and from there it jumos and goes straight to 10 000RPM.
If the ignition module was stuffed surely it would drive like crap?
nope it wouldnt drive like crap with a stuffed ignition module, it would stall every now and then and u would also get a misfire every now and then aswell.
how did you get up to 7500-8000 rpm? did u floor it or did you slowly creep up? i found that if i floored it the tacho would just go crazy rather then slowly creeping up.
SLowly is smooth. Took some videos, mostly 2nd and 3rd gear runs, with a 1-3 run too. It just goes crazy.
Have yet to stall the car.
Sorry about the shakey camera work
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5vtypcyoThQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kDxzouaYjjo
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-dOju9JtuQ
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hg21VvSSiAY
Thanks for the help guys. Coming from a 2007 GTI, a 10 year old car is new stuff for me, but am learning a lot - changed my rotors and discs for the first time for example and hope to install coilovers myself too.
so anythign seem weird on the videos?
JDM-EGG
10-08-2010, 05:16 PM
yes very weird... not normal at all !! LOLL check the module liek the guys said .. :)
Ok i just checked that video, and that must def be it. Anyone know what part i need to get, and if its easy to install?
grifty
10-08-2010, 05:26 PM
its called a ingnition control module, its not that hard to install if u have some mechanical knowledge and know how to use tools.
OK Got the part number
30130P73A01
Its $422!!!!
Must be a better and cheaper aftermarket part!
grifty
10-08-2010, 08:18 PM
OK Got the part number
30130P73A01
Its $422!!!!
Must be a better and cheaper aftermarket part!
of course theres after market lol, try giving afi a call
http://www.afi-australia.com.au/
vinnY
11-08-2010, 02:28 PM
the module's about half that price + shipping from the US
best to look over there
Supercheap auto sell one for $100 Ive just found, auto pro have one for $122
From the US, I would need the Hitachi one yeah? Cos they said u need to check whether u have the hitachi or NEC one, and I thik DC2R has Hitachi?
Giraffe
12-08-2010, 01:07 AM
i lol'd at the video clip :P but yeah, good luck on fixing the issue mate.
I replaced the module, but no luck.
The one i got from supercheap was meant to be for a DC2R, but it was slightly bigger and a different shape, but fit no worries. To replace it I had to remove the distributor as the screws holding it in place were at the bottom. The original was a Hitachi one.
Is it worth trying to source a Hitachi one to see if that fixes the issues?
grifty
15-08-2010, 09:01 AM
hmm thats strange, are you able to get ur hands on a aftermarket tacho? if so hook it up and see if it does the same thing.
Dont have access to a tacho unfortunately.
Could it be the ignition coil? Which means Ill need a new distributor, as I stripped the heads of the screws yesterday, as I didnt realise the screws holding the ICM were on the bottom. Even using an impact screwdriver, they were damn tight and wouldnt open, and the heads ended up being stripped.
Or could it be something as simple as a shit earthing system?
Maybe them module was the wrong one?
Ok just installed a grounding kit. I'm running 2 grounds to the rocker cover, one to the distributor bolt, one on the left onto a bunch of cables that were originally bolted to the chassis, and a couple extra ones to the chassis too.
Car seems a bit smoother this morning, but will need more testing - brightness of lights will be found out tonight.
However, hasn't solved my ICM problem. The tack still jumps to past 10 000 RPM!
Also my idle speed varies, from about 800 to as much as 2000.
Also have ordered new spark plugs, cos thought might be misfiring issue at high rpm's?
FIXED
It was the ignition control module. The replacement one I had was either faulty (unlikely), or was the wrong one, seeing as it only had three holes.
The replacement one I got was from the US. I couldn't find one for ages, but then I realised that its 'Acura' in the US. I got it from here:
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/catalog.php
The Part was BECK/ARNLEY Part # 1800264
cost about $105 shipped, and was very fast shipping.
Cheers
grifty
22-08-2010, 09:07 AM
i also noticed i have the same problem aswell haha, i already have a new module but i cbf replacing it lol
Dude its really easy. Take off the distributor cap. Take off the distributor, its 2 or 3 12mm bolts, undo one screw to take take the round thing off the spindle. At the bottom ull find two screws, undo them with 8mm bit, take out ICM, replace. Shouldn't take you more than 30-40 mins. I could prob do it in 15 now
grifty
22-08-2010, 10:50 PM
Dude its really easy. Take off the distributor cap. Take off the distributor, its 2 or 3 12mm bolts, undo one screw to take take the round thing off the spindle. At the bottom ull find two screws, undo them with 8mm bit, take out ICM, replace. Shouldn't take you more than 30-40 mins. I could prob do it in 15 now
ive already replaced myself before, the new replacement only lasted 13 days then it died lmao. I put the original back in for now, one day when im not lazy ill put in the replacement they sent me. it better not die again!!!
dc2r-0636
28-07-2011, 08:38 PM
bummmp-
guys which will suit b18c7 ?
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/x,carcode,1367850,parttype,7172 -4 different ones with big price difference..
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.2 Copyright © 2024 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.