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EK1 Civic
14-08-2010, 09:46 PM
Hi i just want to get this cleared up and i searched around and received different answers.

I heard the d16y8 IM is the same as the d16y4 IM, they look pretty similar. I also heard they aren't the same? Does anyone know?

Was planning to swap mine for the d16y8 is there not the same, seems the Americans swap out there d16y7 IM for a d16y8 as it gives a boost in low-mid range power.

Mikecivic78
15-08-2010, 05:23 AM
D16y8 will only give you 5kw (93kw vs 88kw) more than a D16y4. IMO it would be better to save towards a B-series Honda.

EK1 Civic
15-08-2010, 12:35 PM
But the part itself costs like $40-50, its like $10 a kw then =D. I don't want a b series or a car with vtec, dont wanna start trashing the car and acting like a dickhead red lining it for the vtec.

Tai
15-08-2010, 12:36 PM
Just leave it.

Spend the $$ on suspension mods.

And no changing the IM will not give you 5 kw gain.

there are other parts that contribute to the extra 5kws.

EK1 Civic
15-08-2010, 12:40 PM
Yeh i was researching on d series and stumbled somewhere the IMs are the same. And the d16y4 had a lower final drive. Guess ill just stick with i/h/e and a cam regrind while i change my timing belt, needs replacing pretty soon. Anything pretty cheap to do while the rocker cover is off? I heard the valve springs but the d16y4 are pretty strong. I'll be doing a tappet adjustment to match the cam.

beeza
15-08-2010, 12:50 PM
There's no gains to be had,they are basically identical.The IACV is on the back of the IM on the y8 where as on the y4 it's on the TB.I think U can can remove the IACV on the y8 plug up the holes but there's no reason to do that unless U had to.

ekcoupe
15-08-2010, 12:52 PM
D16y8 will only give you 5kw (93kw vs 88kw) more than a D16y4. IMO it would be better to save towards a B-series Honda.

the y8 im is the same as the y4 im there would be no gains if you swapped them, that extra 5kw is the y8 vtec:p

EK1 Civic
15-08-2010, 12:54 PM
There's no gains to be had,they are basically identical.The IACV is on the back of the IM on the y8 where as on the y4 it's on the TB.I think U can can remove the IACV on the y8 plug up the holes but there's no reason to do that unless U had to.

Well the manual y8 has the iacv at the back of the manifold. Its best to purchase an automatic one, where the iacv is on the TB. Then the 98-00 is air injected so u gotta plug the holes up. Thats the key differences that i know of between them.

beeza
15-08-2010, 01:00 PM
Gotcha! Upgrading the IM is one of the simpliest things to do to yeild good gains but what IM?

I have seen dodgy ebay ones,just bad designs.

I believe the best the thing to do is modify/bore out the stock y4 one with a dremel.

That's the best way I have found for the y4.

beeza
15-08-2010, 01:04 PM
That y8 automatic,is it still a 56mm opening on the TB/IM?

EK1 Civic
15-08-2010, 01:10 PM
ye its the same, some ppl say just put a b series tb, as its 60mm and port match with the IM. Just wondering would the car bog down at low rpms? Its my DD and i just want to increase its low-mid power, not its high end.

Tai
15-08-2010, 01:11 PM
Well Beeza since you're doign head work you should get Edelbrock or skunk2 IM.

beeza
15-08-2010, 01:17 PM
Yes,but will it work if U just block the IACV off on the back,I think so..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?110352-D16Y4-tb-amp-im&highlight=d16y4+intake+manifold

Gotta bore out the stock TB to 60mm.

EK1 Civic
15-08-2010, 01:21 PM
Yes,but will it work if U just block the IACV off on the back,I think so..

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?110352-D16Y4-tb-amp-im&highlight=d16y4+intake+manifold

Gotta bore out the stock TB to 60mm.

Yeh they bypassed the hoses on the y7 to y8 swap. But they said getting an automatic one just makes life easier.

beeza
15-08-2010, 01:48 PM
U know what it wont work because U need to a b16 TB with the skunk2,edelbrock or blox IM.And the y4 is the black sheep of the lot because it has a 3 wire IACV and the b16 is 2.As far as I know it could be adapted but U have to know what your doing...not easy.

Pretty sure that's the bottom line..

Check this old thread out.Ricer got Hondata working on his y4!

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?61690-d16y4-ecu..-hondata-allowed

I'm about to tune mine with emanage.

beeza
15-08-2010, 01:49 PM
I'll PM Ecu man.

VTECnique
16-08-2010, 06:51 AM
righto i have looked into this myself because i wanted to run a skunk2 IM. You can use the Y4 tb, get that bored out & a IACV bloack off plate on the back of the IM. OR, Use a B-series TB, & buy an edgeauto EK1 conversion harness cause thats the only way you can run a TB without the IACV....

VT3C
16-08-2010, 04:57 PM
I don't want a b series or a car with vtec, dont wanna start trashing the car and acting like a dickhead red lining it for the vtec.

LMFAO why u driving a Honda then ??? i think there is absolutely no point spending a cent on a single-banger NON VTEC.. the motors are meant for efficiency and re-grinding a stock cam can give you extended DURATION at the expense of LIFT.. that is unless you weld-on lumps of metal then grind it back down smooth.. but i'd personally never put a re-ground cam in my head !! too risky !! so what is the point of that ?

even if you bump the compression and fit i/h/e and an ecu tune your non vtec will be lucky to hit stock D16Y8 figures LOL.. the labour cost of a cam regrind and install and tune would prob be MORE than what it costs to do a swap.

if you dont want to be redlining it like an idiot for VTEC, then do a B18B or B20 swap.. yes it's a B-series but it has bucketloads of torque and even more HP than any single cam effort.. plus with the B20 all your power is there before 6,000RPM. match that to an EK4/EG6 gearbox and you got a quick and reliable daily driver with V6 like torque (when in a civic).

otherwise, i think you're in the wrong camp - go buy a VW golf and get soem torque in your life without being a 'Vtec idiot' HAHAHA.

EK1 Civic
16-08-2010, 05:36 PM
The point is when im on my p's i dont want to get pulled over and driving the car hard for vtec. And i dont want people to reply saying do a b swap k swap etc... I just wanted to know if the y8 manifold is the same as the y4. The reason i drive the car is cause i like the shape of the ek. I don't remember saying vtec idoit? The point is vtec kicks in towards the last few thousand rpms, i don't want to be tempted with the desire to always rev the car and get busted by a speeding camera or an undercover cop...

VTECnique
16-08-2010, 07:59 PM
LMFAO why u driving a Honda then ??? i think there is absolutely no point spending a cent on a single-banger NON VTEC.. the motors are meant for efficiency and re-grinding a stock cam can give you extended DURATION at the expense of LIFT.. that is unless you weld-on lumps of metal then grind it back down smooth.. but i'd personally never put a re-ground cam in my head !! too risky !! so what is the point of that ?

even if you bump the compression and fit i/h/e and an ecu tune your non vtec will be lucky to hit stock D16Y8 figures LOL.. the labour cost of a cam regrind and install and tune would prob be MORE than what it costs to do a swap.

if you dont want to be redlining it like an idiot for VTEC, then do a B18B or B20 swap.. yes it's a B-series but it has bucketloads of torque and even more HP than any single cam effort.. plus with the B20 all your power is there before 6,000RPM. match that to an EK4/EG6 gearbox and you got a quick and reliable daily driver with V6 like torque (when in a civic).

otherwise, i think you're in the wrong camp - go buy a VW golf and get soem torque in your life without being a 'Vtec idiot' HAHAHA.

Oh yeah a B18B2 with i/h/e would be awesome in an EK imo. however i can understand the OP wants something more than just i/h/e out of the engine he has. The only person i know of that has modified an NA Y4 is beeza, & i dont hear any complaints from him. I guess its a 'unique' factor....

EK1 Civic
16-08-2010, 09:19 PM
I'm not after a new engine, just gonna go for i/h/e and purchase a new cam. As well as anything cheap that i can put from other Honda models, not gonna spend 350 on a new skunk2 IM etc. Such as y i asked if the y8 IM is same or different as can be picked up from local wreckers. But anyways thanks for everyone's help, IM is pretty much same shit.

dusAn
16-08-2010, 11:13 PM
did you end up getting ur Ps leon?

EK1 Civic
16-08-2010, 11:20 PM
did you end up getting ur Ps leon?

LOL I FAILED THE TEST HAHAHA - Was on a road and chicks like turn left, and i did. Apparently your meant to head check if the road has a bicycle lane when turning into another street. Sep 17th is my next test.

dusAn
16-08-2010, 11:20 PM
lols gg

EK1 Civic
16-08-2010, 11:22 PM
Meh didnt hurt to bad. Copped alot of shit in tafe tho xD

beeza
17-08-2010, 09:15 AM
righto i have looked into this myself because i wanted to run a skunk2 IM. You can use the Y4 tb, get that bored out & a IACV bloack off plate on the back of the IM. OR, Use a B-series TB, & buy an edgeauto EK1 conversion harness cause thats the only way you can run a TB without the IACV....

The bolt patten is different on both..so what one fits? I think it's the b16 TB,I don't think a y4 fits?

beeza
18-08-2010, 06:33 PM
I know how to do it!

Get the y4 TB bored out to 60mm,yonas can do this,then weld it onto the skunk2 IM,just centre it and weld it,it will work!

And plug the IACV up on the back of the IM too!

fat_85_civic
18-08-2010, 06:57 PM
re-grinding a stock cam can give you extended DURATION at the expense of LIFT.. that is unless you weld-on lumps of metal then grind it back down smooth.. but I'd personally never put a re-ground cam in my head !! too risky !! so what is the point of that ?

most reground cams give you greater lift and duration with no welding at all. They just reduce the base circle diameter increasing lift. If they are done correctly they can give just as good power gains as another cam and last just as long as stock.