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View Full Version : Will This Work? 180wattrms to 400watt sub



jay-bee'z
02-01-2005, 03:25 PM
Greetings all.. This is a real pickle this one for me....

thourght i had my decision firmly made
this amp - (Kicker KX350.4 = approx 85-90watt per channel x4)
(http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC04KX3504)
to run this sub (Kicker CVR12 - 12" Sub in ported box, 400watt)
(http://www.cardomain.com/item/KIC03CVR124)

now I had a visit to another store for 2nd opinon, and got totally contradiciting information!

Where I was going to buy it from originally, said a good amp to run that sub is that one.

Then I wen't to another place, and this guy is telling me, no you'll need at least 300watt rms to run that 400watt sub....whereas that kicker amp only will supply it about 180watt max RMS....

SO! who the hell do I believe?!?....

Please Help!

jay-bee'z
02-01-2005, 03:42 PM
NOTE: I WANT TO RUN FRONT SPEAKERS & THE SUB OF THE ONE 4 CHANNEL AMP.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Some Useful info too add might help for those who understand it compeletly cause I don't

The Sub Official Specs as far as kickers website goes:
2 Ohm Dual Voice Coil or 4 Ohm Dual Voice Coil....
or Car Domain, says its dual 4 ohms?

The Amp Official Specs are:
4 Ohm Bridged Mono 175RMS x2
2 Ohm Stereo 90x4

BlakTegra
02-01-2005, 03:52 PM
I personally dont think that amp doesnt' have enough juice to pump that subwoofer you got there but is still possible to drive the sub with no problems at all.
175Wrms is alot but I reckon you're gonna want to hear and feel more bass.

Also depends on what music you listen to. If RnB, techno, etc.. you're gonna definitely need more..heheheheh

I'd say get a Class D Mono blocks like the Alpline MRD-M301.

# 760W x 1 (Max)
# 350W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 175W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 250W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# 150W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# Digital Class-D Technology
# Digital Control Centre
# Bass Engine DSP
# Parametric EQ
# Phase Control
# Subsonic Filter
# Bass Compensation
# Thermal Management
# Amplifier Link Ready
# Remote Amplifier Control Centre Ready

You'll be running a 2-Ohms configuration with ur DVC4+4 sub which allows the amp to pump a whopping 350Wrms.

Correct me if i'm from guys :(


Opps, sorry i didn't see ur 2nd posting!
I'd say get another dedicated sub amp for the sub and a decent sounding 2 or 4 channel amp for the front/rear speakers.

Also, is the sub a dual 2 or 4 ohm voice coil?

jay-bee'z
02-01-2005, 04:45 PM
Ok Called the original shop to clarify...and he rambled off some specs off the birth certificate from the actuall amp and reakons somehow he got the figure of about 220watt rms it could produce into the Kicker 400watt sub. Running in 2-Ohm

This is what i jotted down while i was on the phone,
398 Watt RMS TOTAL
98.5 Watt RMS x4 Channel
197Watt RMS @ 4ohm
220Watt RMS @ 2ohm

but can't understand how he got to 220 watt rms....but The bottom line he said thats he reakons it will play, and it will play loud. Sooooo after all that being said, do u guys buy into that?

---------------------

BTW: he's gonna hook it up tomorrow for me to have a proper listen in store....so well see how it goes ay, ill keep ya posted.

aimre
02-01-2005, 09:24 PM
i always thought u should have more power available than needed.

ie, i got a 400 wrms sub and a 450 wrms mono amp.

if ur sub need 400 wrms to reach its full potential, that means ull run ur amp on max to make it run as close to potential as possible. eventually killing if its alwayts working as hard as possible.

if u get an amp with more juice, it wont have to work as hard to get ur sub to perform

micka
03-01-2005, 01:19 AM
for a daily driver, just want so decent quality music it should work adequately, only you can judge if it all goes loud enough, and gives you enough bass output comparative to the output of your fronts.

you may not want to take this approach but you could always go the amp/ sub combo you want, and if ultimately you're not satisfied with the output you could bridge the 4 channel amp stereo to run the fronts, and get a dedicated sub amp when funds allow.
I haven't heard the setup you have referred to so i cannot give you an accurate opinion if it's a good way to go.

lengjaiboy
03-01-2005, 03:19 AM
Have a look at this guys.. mayb it will help -

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

i got a JL audio 12wo its got a Continuous Power Handling of 125 Watts RMS
And i'm running it with an amp rated at 100W rms.. which according to the chart is the beginning of optimum level.
As the power rating of the amp increases in reaches a danger level and then WARRANTY VOID level.. which is probably bad..
So from that.. i am guessing that its best to have an amp with a power rating roughly about the same as that of the subwoofer.. as if u have less.. u will be underpowering the sub.. if u have too much amp power u risk burning the voice coils.. or wtv its called..

btw i'm not realli into car audio.. so i dont realli kno wat i am talkin about :D

jay-bee'z
03-01-2005, 08:10 AM
great, thanks for the input guys...i'm off today to have an acutall listen to the exact setup so i'll keep you posted...But yeah its a daily driver, and this sub is pretty angry at its full potential, so I might get away with it playing a tad milder, from looking at that chart on the JL website -125 is around the lowest you could run a 400-500watt sub so im gonna be pumping around 200rms, which dosen't sound all that bad. But only ears are the best judge, i'll keep you guys updated.

jay-bee'z
03-01-2005, 11:51 AM
Well had a listen to the 2channel kicker version of it..same specs running to sub.

And it sounded N.I.C.E, couldnt pick it from the mono block it was running off the other day, and it was on like 1/3rd gain, so yeah, final result = all is well.

Javed
03-01-2005, 06:13 PM
remember 1/3rd gain doesnt mean 1/3rd the power! The gains are NOT a volume control people, they are there to match the sensitivity of the input signal! I run 500RMS to my boston, it goes nice, however it really depends on your needs. Personally I do not like this gear.

bumography
03-01-2005, 06:16 PM
anythnig over 150wrms for a sub should be fine

aimre
04-01-2005, 12:52 PM
Have a look at this guys.. mayb it will help -

http://www.jlaudio.com/subwoofers/RP_Chart.html

i got a JL audio 12wo its got a Continuous Power Handling of 125 Watts RMS
And i'm running it with an amp rated at 100W rms.. which according to the chart is the beginning of optimum level.
As the power rating of the amp increases in reaches a danger level and then WARRANTY VOID level.. which is probably bad..
So from that.. i am guessing that its best to have an amp with a power rating roughly about the same as that of the subwoofer.. as if u have less.. u will be underpowering the sub.. if u have too much amp power u risk burning the voice coils.. or wtv its called..

btw i'm not realli into car audio.. so i dont realli kno wat i am talkin about :D

An under powered amp will cause the sub to clip..

a clipping sub will die quicker than a slightly over powered one

Fhrx
04-01-2005, 01:17 PM
Well the amplifier sends a clipped signal to the sub champ, the sub itself doesn't clip. It just overheats and cooks. :(

Click here to read a little more about clipping etc. (http://www.fastfoursforumscarclub.com/temp/fhrxstudios/faq.asp#1.5)

Creative
04-01-2005, 03:12 PM
I'd say get a Class D Mono blocks like the Alpline MRD-M301.

# 760W x 1 (Max)
# 350W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 175W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 14.4V (1% THD)]
# 250W x 1 RMS [2Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# 150W x 1 RMS [4Ohm @ 12V (1% THD)]
# Digital Class-D Technology
# Digital Control Centre
# Bass Engine DSP
# Parametric EQ
# Phase Control
# Subsonic Filter
# Bass Compensation
# Thermal Management
# Amplifier Link Ready
# Remote Amplifier Control Centre Ready

You'll be running a 2-Ohms configuration with ur DVC4+4 sub which allows the amp to pump a whopping 350Wrms.

Correct me if i'm from guys :(I just got this amp and a Type R 1241D 4ohm DVC subby for xmas. Havnt properly tuned it as yet, but she sounds pretty decent as it is....

Im running it in a 2ohm config and the birthsheet says it was tested to 390watts RMS @ 2Ohms :thumbsup:

vti-2
04-01-2005, 03:17 PM
One of the golden rules in car (and home) audio is:

- Always have more power on tap than the speakers/subwoofer are capable of handling.

It is much much safer to have heaps of power on tap and control it than not have enough power for a speaker and put strain on your amp as well as overheat the speaker and eventually fry a voice coil or something.

Just don't forget that golden rule above... :thumbsup: