worth swapping b18cr for b20vtec

[Alexplicit]

hi guys.

ive started reading the b20vtec discussion thread :) but still dont know a great deal on it and the expence involved in building one.

question is, would it be worth swapping my b18cr for a b20vtec? as long as its built well is it as reliable?
parts harder to source? repairs harder?

also wondering y the b20vtecs that i have found for sale arnt worth as much as b18cr's? (keeping in mind all the ones i have found for sale have been sold)

thanks alex :)

[duzy]

Imo, no, its not worth it. i'd stick with the b18 and work that instead. Or keep it close to stock for better resale value.

Are you planning on using ur b18 head or source a b16 head? Would be a waste of a good motor.
But, b20's can be reliable if build right and driven right

If money isnt an issue, then go for gold!!

[Alexplicit]

well i guess i would use the type r b18 head? or no?...

chances are i will stick with the b18 just wanted to know what people thought.

money is most definately an issue :P...

[Touge Tom]

iv'e gone b20vtec and never look'd back. 20% extra volume makes a difference mate. i used a b18vti-R head for more compression.

[pinoy-boi]

i would say work the b18. if u want the b20 done right, its gonna cost a fair bit (if ur after power anyway)

what mods do u hve on ur b18 anyway?

[VTec1987]

ill just stick with the b18
if your going to go b20 and using your b18c head, its gonna start milking u bum....

[dougie_504]

I'd stick with the B18Cr head.

If I wanted more displacement I'd get a stroker kit and make it 2.1L. Then you'll chomp B20VTEC's.

[Alexplicit]

current mods are whale penis intake, toda gears, hondata (on its way) fujisubo catback, toda lightened flywheel, vtec light :P

[VTec1987]

whale penis are junk.... all sound
Get your self a Injen intake. valve for the money

[Alexplicit]

i noticed a huge improvement in higher rpm with the whale penis intake. sound was just another great factor

[VTec1987]

end of the day, u gotta remember, ur just sucking in hot air under ur engine bay....

[Chr1s]

**** that, I've driven a B18R and B20 countless times, the B20 is always more fun.

B20 ftw.

[dougie_504]

current mods are whale penis intake, toda gears, hondata (on its way) fujisubo catback, toda lightened flywheel, vtec light :P


Whale penis looks and sounds good, but ultimately you're robbing yourself of a few KW's that would be easily achieved if you just re-routed your filter to the outside of your bay.

Toda gears...? Not camshafts, just the gears?

What header are you using? OEM cat converter?

[Alexplicit]

end of the day, u gotta remember, ur just sucking in hot air under ur engine bay....

I have a box that seperates the pod from the engine. I do however still understand the entire intake is still absorbing heat.

[Alexplicit]

Whale penis looks and sounds good, but ultimately you're robbing yourself of a few KW's that would be easily achieved if you just re-routed your filter to the outside of your bay.

Toda gears...? Not camshafts, just the gears?

What header are you using? OEM cat converter?


It's how I bought it I don't know if the cams are standard or not. I randomly opened upthe rocker cover and found Them in there . I didn't mention cams as I dont know if they are standard or not. I found heaps of toda junk in it as I've replaced bits and pieces :) timing belt , metallic clutch and flywheel setup cam gears... Pretty sure mycat is gutted not sure will update when new exhaust goes on

[fatboyz39]

Stick with the b18cR. Put some coin into a good intake/header/ exhaust and ECU+ tune. That alone will net great results and be a reliable package.

[Alexplicit]

Stick with the b18cR. Put some coin into a good intake/header/ exhaust and ECU+ tune. That alone will net great results and be a reliable package.

thanks :)

[dougie_504]

Yeah, B20VTEC is great fun but if you're starting with a B18CR platform I'd stick to it. Great engine and although it produces less torque than a B20VTEC it revs a lot harder :D

[89lude]

i think the b20's you see that are 'cheaper' than b18cr's is only because they are usually selling just a head/block. while when you see a b18c it is usually a full conversion...

regardless b20 or b18c - get rid of the whale penis, itb's + good tune = better sound and better performance! :P

[Bludger]

iv'e gone b20vtec and never look'd back. 20% extra volume makes a difference mate. i used a b18vti-R head for more compression.

1.8 to 2.0 is a 10% increase. not 20%.

if going from a b16 or stock b18c2 then i would say its worth upgrading.

but you're going from a b18cr so i think its a waste of a perfectly good motor. difference wouldn't be as much if you were upgrading from a b16.

save your money.

[KLR-16A]

i'd go with no doubt with the b20! go drive a b20vtec wit jus the avg boltons and ecu and u wont think twice. Alot more fun then a b18c, with power all through the rev range unlike a b18c :)

[KLR-16A]

I'd stick with the B18Cr head.

If I wanted more displacement I'd get a stroker kit and make it 2.1L. Then you'll chomp B20VTEC's.

Then again that will cost you 2 much and it wont be reliable ;)

[Cartoon]

b18cr ftw

[Benson]

This might be a good idea. Sell off your b18cr conversion and put that towards a k-series

B18cr package are still fetching decnet money these days.

[Photonic_Si]

If you can afford a k swap, get a K24 and type r head. If you cant, build a strong B20 block, Really high compression pistons ect. Have you considered a G23 swap?

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0902_k24_vtec_versus_g23_vtec_tech_knowledge/index.html

[EM1]

If you can afford a k swap, get a K24 and type r head. If you cant, build a strong B20 block, Really high compression pistons ect. Have you considered a G23 swap?

http://www.importtuner.com/tech/impp_0902_k24_vtec_versus_g23_vtec_tech_knowledge/index.html

interesting read but as taken from the article ...."It goes to show you don't need a 'K' to make a lot of 'HP'." But Chris cautions that not everyone should embark on a G23 build. "If you've got the tools and a garage, and know your way around an engine, by all means-go for it," he advises, "But if you're expecting it all to just snap together... better let a pro handle it." Words to live by".

we're not in the US so if you get a pro to do it parts aren't cheap and so isn't labor.


like sugested just get good intake, headers and high flow cat + tune, your fujitsubo cat back is fine

[Touge Tom]

1.8 to 2.0 is a 10% increase. not 20%.

if going from a b16 or stock b18c2 then i would say its worth upgrading.

but you're going from a b18cr so i think its a waste of a perfectly good motor. difference wouldn't be as much if you were upgrading from a b16.

save your money.

your right on the percentage part! my bad.

[jdmTYPE R]

*** the K stick to your b series. i worked a 1.8 in my ek track car and other people always thought that i had a b20 under the bonnet.

[Alexplicit]

love all this reading guys :)... future plans are Quads, toda headers.... i would love to hit the 200hp mark :) thats my goal when i hit that i will be truely happy :).. although i say that now lol..

concidering the mods i have now. cam gears, cat back ,(maybe cams) flywheel good solid clutch,Hondata, (now have SS intake that goes into front bar),intake, what will i need to achieve the 200 mark?

[dougie_504]

love all this reading guys :)... future plans are Quads, toda headers.... i would love to hit the 200hp mark :) thats my goal when i hit that i will be truely happy :).. although i say that now lol..

concidering the mods i have now. cam gears, cat back ,(maybe cams) flywheel good solid clutch,Hondata, (now have SS intake that goes into front bar),intake, what will i need to achieve the 200 mark?

Cam shafts for sure, valve springs and retainers to support the shafts, an intake/exhaust port job, upgraded TB and IM, the Toda header you mentioned, re-welded combustion chambers, a high compression piston kit, maybe a stroker kit, light weight crank would be nice.

Hitting 200 HP is not easy man. Some people here have done a shite load of work and only hit 120-130KW, let alone 150. I'd aim a little lower just to be safe mate, it will cost you over $10g IMO and I still don't think you'll quite make it.

[TODA AU]

200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

Best advice...
If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

DIY guys...
Your mantra is "Combination is everything" ;)

[dougie_504]

200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

Best advice...
If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

DIY guys...
Your mantra is "Combination is everything" ;)


Can you please explain to me how you would go about attaining 150kw ATW?

And what do you think I'll hit in my JDM B16A?
- Comp 215, 210, 215, 220
- CAI
- ITR TB & IM
- Ported intake/exhaust
- Re-welded combustion chambers
- Skunk2 Stage 1 shafts
- Skunk2 adjustable gears
- Jun valves
- Supertech valve springs
- Supertech retainers
- RS*R 4-2-1 header
- 100cel high-flow cat
- Kakimoto 60mm cat-back
- S300 + tune (including ITR injectors, OBD1 dizzy, conversion loom etc)

Previously made 99.4kw with CAI, header, muffler.

[Photonic_Si]

interesting read but as taken from the article ...."It goes to show you don't need a 'K' to make a lot of 'HP'." But Chris cautions that not everyone should embark on a G23 build. "If you've got the tools and a garage, and know your way around an engine, by all means-go for it," he advises, "But if you're expecting it all to just snap together... better let a pro handle it." Words to live by".

we're not in the US so if you get a pro to do it parts aren't cheap and so isn't labor.


like sugested just get good intake, headers and high flow cat + tune, your fujitsubo cat back is fine

Using that parts guide i could assemble that engine no worries. If you are experienced in assembly, nothing stated there is too much work. Most of the components were oem items readily available from anywhere. Doesnt matter where we are mate.

Doug: your parts list looks heathy. I reckon you will see at least 15 - 25 kw gain. Once you get the 16s to a certain point, they are pretty much giving all their displacement can. Swap in a 20 block later on... you will see 150kw atw easy

[p3akin]

200hp... Actualy it's a walk in the park... But then again, I've done it before... & more than a few times...
Our power target for next years IPRA U2L engine is 180kw @ the wheels, from a B...

Best advice...
If you're after high output & reliability & you can't do it yoursef...
Do yourself a favour & only use someone who can...
Bottom line is... If they haven't done it before... Be honest, they're either still practicing & or full of shit....

DIY guys...
Your mantra is "Combination is everything" ;)

what ecu would you be using in these 200hp builds?? how much would toda itb be??

sorry to hijack

[Photonic_Si]

Best option would be a hondata due to the fact that its supported by tuners in Australia. Standalone systems are not really that good for street cars its as simple as that.

[p3akin]

not much people can tune hondata in melb..

[R8D R]

Alex
Clear it inbox I can't pm u !