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SajadEG
19-09-2010, 02:29 PM
While i was driving my EG GLI last week i noticed that the rpm and km meters had dropped. this happend a couple of times that day before it completely stalled out. the car will start for like half a second then just shut off again.

my mech reckons its the TB and ICAV, so i got that replaced yesterday but the problem is still there, will turn on and shut off. if the key is held in the start position when turned on it will remain on but once you let go off the key it will shut off. anyways the cars at the shop now and my mechs planning on trying out another TB,...from what ive researched it could be an ignition switch but apparently the cars not meant to turn on if it was a faulty switch

THIS VID IS SIMILAR TO WHATS HAPPENING TO MY CAR

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UWP-DcQJRbk

na-118
19-09-2010, 07:36 PM
best of doing the visual inspection
check
oil, coolant, vac hoses, get a multi metre and check the tb sensors,

Alexplicit
19-09-2010, 07:58 PM
first thing i would be doing is making sure alll plugs are securely seated (namely the TPS sensor)

did u try bashing under the steering collumn?

TODA AU
19-09-2010, 08:34 PM
Check CEL code - If no code, check in following order:
Ignition system (ignitor/coil), fuel pressure, PGM-Fl main relay, Crankshaft Position/Top Dead Center/Cylinder Position sensor circuit
Contaminated fuel, & finaly try an alternative ECU if everything else checks out.
& if your car is auto, check the inhibitor switch.

& start using mechanics that are familiar with common sense diagnosis procedure.
It is quite unlikley your TB or IACV have anything to do with your current probem.

Edgeauto
19-09-2010, 08:49 PM
If its your ignition switch your dash lights wont come on in the ON position, they will only come on in the START position. You will also be able to get the car to run if you find the sweet spot between START position and ON position with the key.

dougie_504
19-09-2010, 10:27 PM
Check CEL code - If no code, check in following order:
Ignition system (ignitor/coil), fuel pressure, PGM-Fl main relay, Crankshaft Position/Top Dead Center/Cylinder Position sensor circuit
Contaminated fuel, & finaly try an alternative ECU if everything else checks out.
& if your car is auto, check the inhibitor switch.

& start using mechanics that are familiar with common sense diagnosis procedure.
It is quite unlikley your TB or IACV have anything to do with your current probem.


I was also going to make this point. I don't like the sound of your mechanic, those parts rarely need to be replaced, only cleaned.

I'd check the fuel pump/pressure regulator.

SajadEG
19-09-2010, 10:50 PM
If its your ignition switch your dash lights wont come on in the ON position, they will only come on in the START position. You will also be able to get the car to run if you find the sweet spot between START position and ON position with the key.

thats exactly what happens...im gunna try and source out a ig switch and see how it works out

SajadEG
19-09-2010, 10:51 PM
Would the car even start for that brief moment if its a faulty ig switch...i was under the thought that it wouldnt

ECU-MAN
19-09-2010, 11:45 PM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?32333-DIY-Ignition-Switch-Replacement&highlight=diy

SajadEG
20-09-2010, 12:16 AM
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?32333-DIY-Ignition-Switch-Replacement&highlight=diy

thanks man will try this out

Edgeauto
20-09-2010, 07:56 PM
Would the car even start for that brief moment if its a faulty ig switch...i was under the thought that it wouldnt

yes it will run for a split second until you let go of the key. Just follow the DIY kings guide and make sure if you have alarm you hook it up the same way.

SajadEG
20-09-2010, 11:41 PM
car turned on. didnt replace the ignition switch though, my mech just fiddled around with it not sure what he did exactly but it turns on now.

the replacement TB that i bought has created a new problem. once the car has started it will remain on 2k rpm and then the idle will fluctuate between 500 and 1.5k.

this TB i got has a slightly bigger throttle plate than the old one, hence the accelerator cable is pulled more to compensate the diameter

i went back and got it traded for another TB that has a smaller throttle plate....do u reckon the size of that plate could have afffected the idle rpms?

the wrecker has given me $150 credit for anything from his shop, what parts in your opinion should i spend it on in regards to these issues??

thanx alot guys

Edgeauto
21-09-2010, 09:07 PM
If the problem wasn't happening before why dont you just put the original parts back on your car?

SajadEG
21-09-2010, 11:02 PM
If the problem wasn't happening before why dont you just put the original parts back on your car?

the original TB was traded in for another one. When i asked for it back, they had already sold it

but anyway ive found a TB with a smaller plate and it seems to work fine

should i get another ig switch with the remaining credit, my mech didnt replace it, just touched it up a bit

lycan
22-09-2010, 03:02 AM
Try is there have spark and Injector pulse?