[CL9] Is Fully Synthetic bad for an Euro?

[schonda]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

[tony1234]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

Doesn't sound right to me!Where did you get this from?

[aaronng]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "
I agree with Tony that it doesn't sound right. Also, the CL9 Euro's intake manifold is made of metal, so that issue is not relevant. Even if it is an issue, the plastic intake manifold is typically made from PA6 or PA66 polyamide thermoplastic, not polyoxymethyene, which is a low melting temperature acetal plastic!

Also, diesel oils don't tend to be mineral oils. There are many synthetic diesel engine oils out there, especially the ones used in diesel Audis and BMWs.

[schonda]

Thanks Tony and thanks Aarong for the thorough explanation. What a relief.

I owe all of you pics of my car ill get it detailed on Friday, also ill be doing my spark plug + oil + oil filter + air filter change then ill post some pics.

One thing I am worried about my euro though is that the car feels loose like it doesn't stick to the road well and the whole car just i dont feel confident in it anymore....steering wheel moves all over the place etc...

[rojak1]

try looking ball joint?

[schonda]

try looking ball joint?

Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

[tony1234]

Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

Replace the brake pads with some good aftermarket ones.Put some decent tyres on and THEN get a good 4 wheel alignment and all should be good.

[schonda]

oh ok - well that;s something ill have to save hard for..

[lf1234]

I'm not sure if I'm following...

I'm using: Castrol EDGE Sport 5W-30 for my CL9

Is that ok...? just want to confirm if i've been doing the right thing... cos i'm a bit confuse from this post..

thanks..:)

[integral90]

5W-30 is fine for the Euro. I'd only go to a thicker viscosity when the car's broken the +100,000km mark

[sodhi90]

I'd only go to a thicker viscosity when the car's broken the +100,000km mark

Ive been using EDGE 5W30 since 100,000 now at (3rd service with EDGE now) 126,000kms and have not had any noticeable oil consumption, and it runs great :D

[EUR003act]

I use Royal Purple for my euro, and someone claims it's overpriced and it can actuall damage my euro however I am not sure if his claims are for real:

"In a nutshell, Most full synthetics (especially Ester and polyalphaolefin based synthetics) are prone to damaging plastic components polyoxymethylene (ie your plastic intake and manifold).

Synthetics are also designed for high heat and high load applications, they arent designed for constant small run stop start cold conditions. Synthetics dont tend to suspend foreign particles very well either, much the reason why diesels (well high load diesels anyways) are still 70-80% mineral based oils.

A good quality semi synthetic such as HPR5 which contains a 25% stock base would be much better over the long run, and much cheaper as well since it can be had for 40ish per 5l, compared to RP which is closer to 100 per 5. "

dont know where this is from but sounds wrong... no oil will give perfect protection for small stop start driving... you should avoid that kinda driving if possible as it doesnt allow the oil to reach correct operating temperature to work at its best.


Ok ill mention that to the mechanic to check, do you know how much it would cost to fix that if it were an issue?

I got told from various people that it might be the power hose pump leaking and thats the reason my steering wheel shakes constantly when accelerating and braking and over even the smallest bumps. I paid $120 for pedders to do an allignment so it's straight and the dude said "your brakes are sht, and your tires are very sht you need to change both immediately" (I have Dunlop at the back and Bridgestone TR300 at front) thread prob 1-2mm left...

When i told the mechanic the hose might have a hole in it the powersteering he just laughed and says unlikely but he'll check it for me.

if the mechanic said your brakes are sh*t and tyres are sh*t.... then change your tyres and your brakes, warped rotors will cause vibration when braking, and possibly when accelerating....

[Type R Positive]

Ive been using EDGE 5W30 since 100,000 now at (3rd service with EDGE now) 126,000kms and have not had any noticeable oil consumption, and it runs great :DI'm going to go to edge 5w30 next change, did you notice any difference at all? Like compared to GTX?

[Dogchaser]

Regularly changed lower grade oil is still far better than the most expensive synthetic..........

A honda over 100k should still run like new, if it has been looked after....thicker oils are for older (ie older than 15 years) cars that are not built to such fine tolerances....

[Type R Positive]

Lol! You are on a forum, you can be sure we all get regular oil changes......
Now as for mineral oil better than synthetic? Well manufacturers recommend mineral for break in as it doesn't protect very good compared to synthetic. So which one you think is better?

[schonda]

5W-30 is fine for the Euro. I'd only go to a thicker viscosity when the car's broken the +100,000km mark

im over the 100k mark i just did the 110k service with 5W-30 royal purple is this ok?

[schonda]

dont know where this is from but sounds wrong... no oil will give perfect protection for small stop start driving... you should avoid that kinda driving if possible as it doesnt allow the oil to reach correct operating temperature to work at its best.



if the mechanic said your brakes are sh*t and tyres are sh*t.... then change your tyres and your brakes, warped rotors will cause vibration when braking, and possibly when accelerating....

Thanks Euro3.

How do warped brakes cause vibration during acceleration? The mechanic told me honda would charge 1k to change the steering pump and don't bother cause he reckon the steering is fine compared to cars his driven. My civic08 steering is a feather and it never shaked ever.

[Dogchaser]

Lol! You are on a forum, you can be sure we all get regular oil changes......
Now as for mineral oil better than synthetic? Well manufacturers recommend mineral for break in as it doesn't protect very good compared to synthetic. So which one you think is better?

Same as anything...your budget and enthusiasm is key...
Synthetic oils are designed for high temperature situations....ie racing, track work, towing
The advertising industry would have you believe they are necessary for everyone....crap!
Mineral oils are perfectly acceptable for everyday driving...for most vehicles
Blended oils are the best compromise for 99% of us.....
The biggest factor on engine wear is number of start ups....and to a lesser extent the filtration of the oil the engine uses...
Starting is when most damage is done.

[schonda]

Is there some detailed reading or video on what happens when engines start up...i want to learn.

[EUR003act]

Thanks Euro3.

How do warped brakes cause vibration during acceleration? The mechanic told me honda would charge 1k to change the steering pump and don't bother cause he reckon the steering is fine compared to cars his driven. My civic08 steering is a feather and it never shaked ever.

the brake pads are always slightly in contact with the rotors (even is just ever so slightly touching), so if the rotors are warped, as the bulge or buckle rotates past the pad, itll cause the pad to push in slightly and create a vibration...


Same as anything...your budget and enthusiasm is key...
Synthetic oils are designed for high temperature situations....ie racing, track work, towing
The advertising industry would have you believe they are necessary for everyone....crap!
Mineral oils are perfectly acceptable for everyday driving...for most vehicles
Blended oils are the best compromise for 99% of us.....
The biggest factor on engine wear is number of start ups....and to a lesser extent the filtration of the oil the engine uses...
Starting is when most damage is done.

have you ever seen the oil temp of a K-series under normal driving?

it can get up to 120-125 degrees C easily...Fully Mineral based oils can start to break up around that temp...

I understand for your normal engine fully synthetic is not needed, however, i-VTEC and VVT-i engines dont just use oil for lubrication, its also controlling all those features and flowing thru camshafts blah blah blah...

i prefer fully synthetic for piece of mind :)

[schonda]

Ok so my next priority would be new brakes to see if it smoothes the steering a bit, would aftermarket be the same price as OEM?

I will also get a set of new tires, out of curiousity, is wheel alighnment needed again after a change of tires?

[tony1234]

Ok so my next priority would be new brakes to see if it smoothes the steering a bit, would aftermarket be the same price as OEM?

I will also get a set of new tires, out of curiousity, is wheel alighnment needed again after a change of tires?

Bendix Ultimates are a good pad upgrade.cheaper than OEM too.You shouldn't need an alignment after tyres.

[sodhi90]

I'm going to go to edge 5w30 next change, did you notice any difference at all? Like compared to GTX?

I went from a Caltex 10W30 mineral to EDGE 5W30 and i noticed the engine reved a lot more freely. fuel economy did improve slightly :D

[Dogchaser]

Is there some detailed reading or video on what happens when engines start up...i want to learn.

Try your local council library..they will have plenty of auto books
Even better is a TAFE library...

[aaronng]

Ok so my next priority would be new brakes to see if it smoothes the steering a bit, would aftermarket be the same price as OEM?
Aftermarket tends to be cheaper because OEM items are overpriced.


I will also get a set of new tires, out of curiousity, is wheel alighnment needed again after a change of tires?
Not necessary, but if you have never performed a wheel alignment on your Euro since owning it (even if you just bought it 2nd hand), then get it aligned! Who knows when the previous owner last checked the alignment. I use Bridgestone Tyre Centre for my alignments.

[schonda]

Aftermarket tends to be cheaper because OEM items are overpriced.

Not necessary, but if you have never performed a wheel alignment on your Euro since owning it (even if you just bought it 2nd hand), then get it aligned! Who knows when the previous owner last checked the alignment. I use Bridgestone Tyre Centre for my alignments.

Yeah I did mine at pedders cost me $120. Ill try bridgestone next time along with a new set of tires, and fix up my brakes - aftermarket. I can't wait haha.

[aaronng]

Yeah I did mine at pedders cost me $120. Ill try bridgestone next time along with a new set of tires, and fix up my brakes - aftermarket. I can't wait haha.

If you did one at Pedders, then you'll be alright for a bit. I used Bridgestone at Blacktown and it cost me $70-80 I think. Prefer them over Pedders since Bridgestone doesn't try to upsell their other stuff when I am there.

[schonda]

If you did one at Pedders, then you'll be alright for a bit. I used Bridgestone at Blacktown and it cost me $70-80 I think. Prefer them over Pedders since Bridgestone doesn't try to upsell their other stuff when I am there.

Alright im close to blacktown thanks Aaronng, ill go there in future for when i need the next alignment prob 20k's or if i change to a new blistein shock absorber (which i read is used in all european cars) i think i'd have to get a new alignment done.

Yeah tell me about it i went to pedders granville and they said new front brakes $550 and the customer service was cold there. My mechanic laughed and asked if they were gold plated brakes haha...

Back to the topic thread: I was reading up on the new FEO Ultra oil, apparently its group III oil and i have royal purple now which is group iv, i might try the honda stuff and see how it goes for 10k's. Have you guys tried it yet? I don't think it's the best stuff judging from the group rating but It shoud be good for 10k's. Will honda upgrade their oil filters anytime soon?

Anyone know if the blue honda oil filters are paper pased inside or synthetic media?

[schonda]

I just read the below and i quote:


Oils that are strictly Group V ester oils tend to be better suited for high RPM, hot running, air cooled engines. 100% ester based oils are usually more expensive than Group IV oils, and don't have the longevity of PAO (Group IV) or PAO/Ester mixes oils. Group V oils perform very well in the shorter term. Oils like Royal Purple and Redline are Group V oils. They perform very well in race engines and in applications where drain intervals are factory spec or shorter, whereas Group IV oils are better suited for the long haul of extended intervals.


From: http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/ot/5592.html


So from the above what i can conclude is that if you're using group V oils you should change them regularly, im not sure if that's because of the high load they are under i.e. if you are constantly driving in high rpm's or because they are designed for high rpm usuage and not for longer drain intervals (i am throwing figures around here but im guessing 5k intervals for group v oils). For 10k intervals it's better to use a PAO (Poly-Alpha-Olefin) where the molecules in the base oil, which is a Group IV PAO based oil which is suited to longer drain intervals (im guessing 10k intervals).

I also read that the oil i use 5W-30 royal purple is group IV and not group V, whereas the racing formula of RP is equivalent to the Motul 300V which is Group V. Im confused now.

[Type R Positive]

I just read the below and i quote:



From: http://www.dodgedakotas.com/boards/ot/5592.html


So from the above what i can conclude is that if you're using group V oils you should change them regularly, im not sure if that's because of the high load they are under i.e. if you are constantly driving in high rpm's or because they are designed for high rpm usuage and not for longer drain intervals (i am throwing figures around here but im guessing 5k intervals for group v oils). For 10k intervals it's better to use a PAO (Poly-Alpha-Olefin) where the molecules in the base oil, which is a Group IV PAO based oil which is suited to longer drain intervals (im guessing 10k intervals).

I also read that the oil i use 5W-30 royal purple is group IV and not group V, whereas the racing formula of RP is equivalent to the Motul 300V which is Group V. Im confused now.
Stop reading American forums and the picture might become clearer! E-experts are everywhere LOL!

Try calling the distridutor for royal purple and have a chat with them about it. You'll be suprised on what info you can get just by talking to the right people.

Americans use Miles instead of KM's too........

[EUR003act]

just use mobil 1 super syn... i change it every 10,000km or every 12 months....

works perfectly in my engine (8,000+ rpm now :p )

[aaronng]

So from the above what i can conclude is that if you're using group V oils you should change them regularly, im not sure if that's because of the high load they are under i.e. if you are constantly driving in high rpm's or because they are designed for high rpm usuage and not for longer drain intervals (i am throwing figures around here but im guessing 5k intervals for group v oils). For 10k intervals it's better to use a PAO (Poly-Alpha-Olefin) where the molecules in the base oil, which is a Group IV PAO based oil which is suited to longer drain intervals (im guessing 10k intervals).

I also read that the oil i use 5W-30 royal purple is group IV and not group V, whereas the racing formula of RP is equivalent to the Motul 300V which is Group V. Im confused now.
Group IV PAO oils are used in European cars and now more American cars for extended intervals. When I say extended, I mean 1 year 24000km or even 2 years 48000km! With the Euro and its 6 month/10,000km interval, you are alright with Royal Purple. Think about this. Holden specifies a 12 month/24000km interval for their Astra, yet their dealers use Castrol GTX3. Crappy shit which gums the injectors but still manages to survive 12 months. So the Group V Royal Purple will be fine (at least better than the GTX3 for 12 months!)

[tony1234]

Group IV PAO oils are used in European cars and now more American cars for extended intervals. When I say extended, I mean 1 year 24000km or even 2 years 48000km! With the Euro and its 6 month/10,000km interval, you are alright with Royal Purple. Think about this. Holden specifies a 12 month/24000km interval for their Astra, yet their dealers use Castrol GTX3. Crappy shit which gums the injectors but still manages to survive 12 months. So the Group V Royal Purple will be fine (at least better than the GTX3 for 12 months!)

There's no way i'd leave engine oil in my car for longer than 6mths.10K.BTW i use Castrol Edge 0W-40 which is a group IV isn't it Aaron?

[ricsvtr]

. Holden specifies a 12 month/24000km interval for their Astra, yet their dealers use Castrol GTX3. Crappy shit which gums the injectors but still manages to survive 12 months.

Just wondering how it would gum the injectors?

[Type R Positive]

Just wondering how it would gum the injectors?
3 letters, PCV.

Emisson control that vents blow-by from crank case to intake manifold.

[ricsvtr]

3 letters, PCV.

Emisson control that vents blow-by from crank case to intake manifold.

Ah ic

[Type R Positive]

Ah ic
More of a problem on diesels, but still a big issue on all modern engines.

[aaronng]

There's no way i'd leave engine oil in my car for longer than 6mths.10K.BTW i use Castrol Edge 0W-40 which is a group IV isn't it Aaron?
Yup, the 0W-40 is the Group IV.


Just wondering how it would gum the injectors?
Oil vapour coming from the crankcase through the PCV into the intake manifold where the vapour comes into contact with the injector and then deposits and clogs the nozzle. Happened on our Astra and had to call NRMA to help fix it up.

[schonda]

Oil vapour coming from the crankcase through the PCV into the intake manifold where the vapour comes into contact with the injector and then deposits and clogs the nozzle.

Are you guys mechanics, how you know these terms? I must be a complete noob to cars.

Astra's apparently had a reputation for being unreliable.

[BLKWLF]

Ok i've read this entire thread and still have no clue as to what oil i should use on my next service. I really need some recommendations. What i picked up so far from the thread is Castrol Edge 5-30 but my has done 140,000k's. Would that be ok?

[roony]

From reading should be k if ur car has been maintained regularily. On really older cars with higher mileage i guess should use thicker oiln I'm using the same and its been fine. Just ticked over the 100 k mark.

[Fredoops]

From reading should be k if ur car has been maintained regularily. On really older cars with higher mileage i guess should use thicker oiln I'm using the same and its been fine. Just ticked over the 100 k mark.

Manual doesnt allow anything over Xw-40 weight, so stick below that.


My cars done 125k and I've used full synthetic 5w-30 Mobil 1 extended performance and it was really good. Now I'm running mobil 1 0w-40 (gold bottle), both on extended drain interval.

Our euro loves synthetic.

Ps: castrol edge no longer exist, it's now edge Titanium formula, it's a lot more expansive now, reason people used castrol edge before is because its really cheap when on special.


If you are really paranoid, Mobil one does have a "high milage formula" in 5w-40. Check it out, it's American import, a shop in Melbourne sells them.

[pitiek]

Is there a minimum Kms before the engine can take synthetic?
I always have my civic serviced by the dealer and never had any issue but some extra $$$.
Now with my euro, I'm considering on going to a local mechanic to save some money.
What does extended drain interval means? Can you actually ask the mechanic at the dealer not to change the oil if you're using a good quality synthetic oil?

[Fredoops]

Is there a minimum Kms before the engine can take synthetic?
I always have my civic serviced by the dealer and never had any issue but some extra $$$.
Now with my euro, I'm considering on going to a local mechanic to save some money.
What does extended drain interval means? Can you actually ask the mechanic at the dealer not to change the oil if you're using a good quality synthetic oil?
No, you can go full syn as soon as the 2nd oil change.

When I was in Brisbane I used Hondacare @ summer park, whiche were decent.

Extended drain interval bascially means long oil change interval, I did a full 10k/12mth (well, 11 really) on my previous change using Mobil One Extended Performance, the oil could've lasted a lot longer tho (15k/18th probably)

Sure as hell better than the 6mth interval Honda wants you to fork out.

[aaronng]

Ok i've read this entire thread and still have no clue as to what oil i should use on my next service. I really need some recommendations. What i picked up so far from the thread is Castrol Edge 5-30 but my has done 140,000k's. Would that be ok?

It will be just fine. Edge 5w-30 is a good oil for the money when it is being sold at under $50 for 5L.

[BLKWLF]

Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?

[Chr1s]

Do NOT run a thicker grade viscosity just because someone said so after you hit more than 100,000km...

Engines and their requirement for a certain grade of oil most definately doesn't work that way. The engine was designed to operate around a certain oil pressure to attain flow, ie temperature control and lubrication while still protecting the rotating and reciprocating parts..By increasing the pressure you will decrease the first two and may start to do more damage than good...

Just stick to the recommended viscosity please...

If you really want to be anal with the type of oil to run, go get an oil pressure gauge, check what the Honda specification is for oil pressure at a given RPM and change the grades until you find which best suits that requirement.

[Fredoops]

Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?

No... Semi-syn doesn't mean its a 50/50 mix... Some of them are like 90 Dino, 10 syn mix...and it's not cheap anyhow.

[aaronng]

Ah ok. Any semi-synthetic oils good for the euro? Best of both worlds isn't it?

No, a semi-synthetic is a mineral oil with under 10% of synthetic additives added. It is not the best of both worlds, but actually a better than mineral but worse than full synthetic.

In terms of ranking based on protection, price.
Mineral < Semi-synthetic < Group III synthetic (Edge 5w-30) < Group IV synthetic (Edge 0w-40, Motul 8100, Elf synthetic < Group V synthetic (Motul 300V, Royal purple)

Advantages:
Mineral: Cheap, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions.
Semi-synthetic: Slightly more expensive, protects slightly better than full mineral, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions.
Group III: Medium priced, good protection, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly under hard conditions, sometimes price is very high, higher than Group IV!
Group IV: Expensive, good protection, withstands hard conditions. Does not leave thin film on metal, priced similar to Group III or can be higher.
Group V: Super expensive, excellent protection, leaves a thin film on metal. Breaks down quickly over time, does not last as long as Group IV. Should be used with regular service intervals (6-12 months) and not extended (18-24 months)

The ones that I have found to be good both on road and on track:

Edge 5w-30: Good when price is under $50. Great protection for street use. When run on track, found to become rougher after 60 minute of hard track time.

Edge 0w-40: Good when 20% off sale is on. Easy to find. Great protection on street and track. Engine was still running smooth after 90 minutes of hard track time.

Motul 8100 X-cess 5w-40: Similar to Edge 0w-40 but engine feels smoother and quieter at idle. Haven't used this oil on track.

Elf Excellium GP 5w-40: Similar to Motul 8100 Xcess. Can be found at Autobarn for $75ish which brings it down to $60 during 20% off sale.

If you can find any Group IV for $60-65 or less, then it is a good buy. For Group III, I'd pay $50 or under. Semi-synthetic it's $40 or under and for pure mineral, I'd pay no more than $35.

[Fredoops]

Imma go Amsoil 5w-30 next. After the Mobil1 0w-40 is due for replacement.

PS, with the new 'titanium' formula, edge had gone upmarket and it's now similar priced as mobil1

[roony]

Imma go Amsoil 5w-30 next. After the Mobil1 0w-40 is due for replacement.

PS, with the new 'titanium' formula, edge had gone upmarket and it's now similar priced as mobil1

no wonder i couldnt find any yest at the superhcheap auto store. Time to hunt down some reduced group iv oils. I never clock up 10k in a year, so safe to still change at longer intervals as u did, as in a year? No issues with the oil filter? thanks

[Fredoops]

no wonder i couldnt find any yest at the superhcheap auto store. Time to hunt down some reduced group iv oils. I never clock up 10k in a year, so safe to still change at longer intervals as u did, as in a year? No issues with the oil filter? thanks
I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity :)

[roony]

I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity :)

ah cool. Thanks :)

[Fredoops]

Do NOT run a thicker grade viscosity just because someone said so after you hit more than 100,000km...

Engines and their requirement for a certain grade of oil most definately doesn't work that way. The engine was designed to operate around a certain oil pressure to attain flow, ie temperature control and lubrication while still protecting the rotating and reciprocating parts..By increasing the pressure you will decrease the first two and may start to do more damage than good...

Just stick to the recommended viscosity please...

If you really want to be anal with the type of oil to run, go get an oil pressure gauge, check what the Honda specification is for oil pressure at a given RPM and change the grades until you find which best suits that requirement.

Agreed, having thicker oil in hope of better protection is like wearing 2 condoms.... It doesn't work that way... And you might just hurt yourself.

It's the quality of the base oil and additive package that makes the difference.

[BLKWLF]

Thanks a lot aaronng. The exact details i needed too!

[opilot87]

I got long service filter (Mobil1 extended performance) with double the normal capacity :)

Where did you get these from fredroops? Wouldn't mind picking some up myself

Ollie

[Fredoops]

Where did you get these from fredroops? Wouldn't mind picking some up myself

Ollie

Gllubricants.com or something, there's a guy in Sydney sells them. 20 bucks each.

[roony]

Just went browsing today at SCA/autobarn. Saw the *new* titanium 5w30 for 75$. The motul 5w40 8100 was 77$. No brainer there if u were taking it at those prices. I saw also motul 5w30 8100 eco-nergy at 88$. Anyone have any experience with this?

[Fredoops]

Just went browsing today at SCA/autobarn. Saw the *new* titanium 5w30 for 75$. The motul 5w40 8100 was 77$. No brainer there if u were taking it at those prices. I saw also motul 5w30 8100 eco-nergy at 88$. Anyone have any experience with this?
all of those "Eco" or "Fuel Saving" engine oil claims are basically any engine oil with anti-friction treatment/addictives

The 4w-30 is already thinner than 5-w40, so there's already possible fuel savings there

[roony]

oh k, understood.ill probably stick the 5w40 and try to source it cheaper elsewhere. Want to try the motul.

[Fredoops]

5w-30 IMO is enough if you don't thrash the car all the time, as long as you can be sure the base oil for the 5w-30 is actually group 4, not group 3.

I'm pretty sure all mutilation is group 4 or 5.

[aaronng]

5w-30 IMO is enough if you don't thrash the car all the time, as long as you can be sure the base oil for the 5w-30 is actually group 4, not group 3.

I'm pretty sure all mutilation is group 4 or 5.

I've used 5w-30 group III on track twice and the engine was well protected. So nothing wrong with it. Just make sure you don't pay Group IV prices for a Group III oil.

[vorace]

GDay,
I have a 06 Euro and usually have been using Castrol Edge 5w-30. I was buying it and stockpiling it when it was <$30 on sale. Fantastic oil, smooth and revvy and tolerated trackdays no problem. Prior to this and up to 30000kms I was using the recommended Honda FEO mineral oil. The Castrol was better.than the FEO. When the Castrol prices went over $50/5l, I switched and tried out Motul 5w-40 Xcess8100 as it was an amazing oil in my old Mk5 Golf GTI. In the Euro though, it was smoother than the Castrol Edge but the engine was more sluggish and very linear feeling. With now 110000kms on the car, I changed the oil to Nulon 5w-30 Synthetic (Diesel formulation-still fine for petrol engines) as it was on sale-$49/5l. What a great oil! Smoother than the Motul, but with better revability and top end power, fuel economy is excellent too!

[Fredoops]

GDay,
I have a 06 Euro and usually have been using Castrol Edge 5w-30. I was buying it and stockpiling it when it was <$30 on sale. Fantastic oil, smooth and revvy and tolerated trackdays no problem. Prior to this and up to 30000kms I was using the recommended Honda FEO mineral oil. The Castrol was better.than the FEO. When the Castrol prices went over $50/5l, I switched and tried out Motul 5w-40 Xcess8100 as it was an amazing oil in my old Mk5 Golf GTI. In the Euro though, it was smoother than the Castrol Edge but the engine was more sluggish and very linear feeling. With now 110000kms on the car, I changed the oil to Nulon 5w-30 Synthetic (Diesel formulation-still fine for petrol engines) as it was on sale-$49/5l. What a great oil! Smoother than the Motul, but with better revability and top end power, fuel economy is excellent too!

the smoothness is probably due to the weight of the oil 40 vs 30.

[vorace]

yep, the 40 weight Motul is smooth, but the Nulon 30 weight was just as smooth but more responsive as well!

[roony]

I do have a heavy foot, if the extra weight of the oil makes it a bit sluggish then maybe im better of sticking to 5w30? Btw, is there any particular info on the oil bottle to indicate which group it belongs to?

[Fredoops]

I do have a heavy foot, if the extra weight of the oil makes it a bit sluggish then maybe im better of sticking to 5w30? Btw, is there any particular info on the oil bottle to indicate which group it belongs to?

Here's the kicker, the big oil companies (Mobil, Castrol-- which is BP, shell) doesn't tell you what rop the oil is.

The smaller, niche companies do, eg: redline, royal purple, Amsoil etc. because that's how they differentiate themselves.

Iirc as a general rule of thumb (how accurate it is I dunno), Mobil/Castrol 0w-40 are generally group4's while their 5w-30 tend to use group 3 base oil

[vorace]

No there isnt any info about what group it belongs to, but I wouldnt use 5w-40 in my Euro as the thinner 5w-30 ran much nicer with more responsiveness- definitely less sluggish! Funny thing is that the Nulon was just as smooth as the much more expensive Motul (which I agree is a fantastic oil), while being cheaper than the Castrol Edge 5w-30 which was the benchmark synthetic I was previously using. Interestingly, I am using the Nulon Diesel formula 5w-30 which seems to me to have excellent specs and probably has a good additive package to keep the engine clean.

[lf1234]

I've used 5w-30 group III on track twice and the engine was well protected. So nothing wrong with it. Just make sure you don't pay Group IV prices for a Group III oil.

Just wondering what's the difference between group 3 and 4 and 5..?
And what price should group 3 be? and group 4..?

Thanks!!! :)

[pitiek]

As Fredoops mentioned a few pages back, the K24 engine should be able to take fully syn after 2nd oil change but if I opt with using Mobil 1 EP, should I be able to keep the car warranty while changing the oil per 10k?

[aaronng]

Just wondering what's the difference between group 3 and 4 and 5..?
Go read page 5: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?141189-CL9-Is-Fully-Synthetic-bad-for-an-Euro/page5


And what price should group 3 be? and group 4..?

Thanks!!! :)

There is no price that an oil should be at. But if you find a Group 3 oil being sold at the same price as a Group 4, you buy the Group 4. Simple common sense. If someone sells you 1g of silver at $10 and 1g of gold at $10, you get the gold. :)

[aaronng]

As Fredoops mentioned a few pages back, the K24 engine should be able to take fully syn after 2nd oil change but if I opt with using Mobil 1 EP, should I be able to keep the car warranty while changing the oil per 10k?
As long as your service is 10k/6 months whichever comes first, then yes, your car warranty will be valid.

[Fredoops]

As long as your service is 10k/6 months whichever comes first, then yes, your car warranty will be valid.

Only Honda Australia keeps the stupid 10k/6m service schedule, the Europeans get 15k/12mth on the same bleeding car.

Since my car's outta warranty, ive been doing the 10k/12mth schedule, bugger getting the thing services every six mth.

[lf1234]

Go read page 5: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?141189-CL9-Is-Fully-Synthetic-bad-for-an-Euro/page5


There is no price that an oil should be at. But if you find a Group 3 oil being sold at the same price as a Group 4, you buy the Group 4. Simple common sense. If someone sells you 1g of silver at $10 and 1g of gold at $10, you get the gold. :)

I see!!! THANKS Aaronng!!! :)

[pitiek]

How can you tell which oil is group 3 or 4?
I had a look at Mobil 1 5W-30 and the EP but it doesn't say anything about what oil group they are on their website...

[Fredoops]

How can you tell which oil is group 3 or 4?
I had a look at Mobil 1 5W-30 and the EP but it doesn't say anything about what oil group they are on their website...

M1EP 5w-30 is group 3. 0w-40 iirc is group 4.

[pitiek]

I see...
I found GL Lubricants website while browsing..

http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?p=1_3_Mobil-Pricelist

They have a few Mobil 1 oil to choose from.. Are they price look alright for group III oil?

And what is iirc? Sorry for my noobness..

[roony]

I see...
And what is iirc? Sorry for my noobness..

if i recall correctly.

[Fredoops]

I see...
I found GL Lubricants website while browsing..

http://www.gllubricants.com/index.php?p=1_3_Mobil-Pricelist

They have a few Mobil 1 oil to choose from.. Are they price look alright for group III oil?

And what is iirc? Sorry for my noobness..

Ah yes, I used GL before, they were good.

M1EP over M1 anyday, better addictive package. Beats supercheap auto pricings.
Oh get their long service filter for $20 bucks!

[pitiek]

Hmmm.. Using synthetic oil can be addictive ey...? LOL :p

[pitiek]

I don't see the benefit of long service filter since to keep the honda warranty, I have to follow the log book on when to change the oil filter. Correct me if I'm wrong.

And one more thing is there any benefit going for 0W-40 over 5W-30 ?

[roony]

I don't see the benefit of long service filter since to keep the honda warranty, I have to follow the log book on when to change the oil filter. Correct me if I'm wrong.

And one more thing is there any benefit going for 0W-40 over 5W-30 ?

yes if that is the case just stick to reg oil, dont go for EP stuff.

well your car is new so just stick to the 30 part of the rating.

[roony]

Emailed Gl lubricants, response:

Hi Roony,

Thank you for your enquiry.

I am not sure where you get those information from. But Mobil 1 is Group IV oils, Castrol on the other hand a lot of discussions claimed that they are Group III.

The EP range oil is even closer to Group V, as Ester, which is common in Group V oils, is added to the oil to make it last longer and for more protection.

If you would like to get true Group V oil, Redline and Royal Purple is the right one.

Should you have any further enquiries, please do not hesitate to contact me.

Kind Regards

Nick

GL Lubricants Pty Ltd

If the info is correct then pricing isnt bad at all imo. Emailed mobil US too, lets see how they respond.

[Fredoops]

Thats poor response from Nick

Most major lines were mix groups (Mobil 1, castrol edge sport)

Royal purple is in fact group 4 PAO
Redline is group 5...


Bobistheoilguy.com.com says differently:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=956790
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1077324
http://www.tundrasolutions.com/forums/engine-and-drivetrain/78463-group-iii-mobil-1-a/

[roony]

yea read this yest, but not sure. oh well its still good oil in the end. Did u have any issues with the EP? happy with it?

[Fredoops]

yea read this yest, but not sure. oh well its still good oil in the end. Did u have any issues with the EP? happy with it?

I got no issue with the EP at all, I would've done a oil test after the change to investigate the result had I not used oil flush and top body cleaner.

Again, M1EP, best oil I had in the euro yet.

[Fredoops]

I found this interesting post from bobistheoilguy.com that I think I'd share:


Amsoil uses blended, Group IV/Group V, basestocks that combine the best features of PAO's and various types of organic esters. It's been their approach for about the last 25 years. For their first 7-8 years, they primarily used diester (dibasic acid ester) base oils ....

No one, including Redline, uses > 40% polyol-esters in their basestocks - their oils be about $15.00/qt-$20.00/qt if you did. (check prices on even low viscosity, 100%,PE based, jet turbine oils). The 100% synthetic oils you see (like Motul), are made from the less expensive, diester basestocks.

Tooslick
www.lubedealer.com/Dixie_Synthetics

[roony]

Thought I would ask here instead of making a new thread. Looked at a 2003 v6 accord as friend looking to buy.

84000 km. Full history from Honda. Now the service schedule is the same as euro 10k/6 months. I saw the receipts and they used the Honda feo oil. However the services were done one year apart.

Could this be a concern? Is the feo oil good enough to last that long?

[Fredoops]

Thought I would ask here instead of making a new thread. Looked at a 2003 v6 accord as friend looking to buy.

84000 km. Full history from Honda. Now the service schedule is the same as euro 10k/6 months. I saw the receipts and they used the Honda feo oil. However the services were done one year apart.

Could this be a concern? Is the feo oil good enough to last that long?

Not really. But considering the low kay's on the car it should be alright.

[roony]

great thanks, overall the car looks in great condition ,that was the only concern really.

[lf1234]

Hi Aaronng,
Also wanna ask about Castrol Edge 5w-40

1. Is the CastrolEdge 5w-40 better than CastrolEdge 5w-30?
2. is the CastrolEdge 5w-40 better than CastrolEdge 0w-40?

My car is 07 Euro, got 40,000k on the clock. I have been using 5w-30 for the past few years.. should i keep using 5w-30? or is 5w-40 better?

Thanks again for your help!!!

[roony]

Hey guys. Is the Mobil 0w40 a group IV? Seeing the prices I'm guessing it is.

So if I could get a 5L bottle for $50 I should get it like ASAP?

[Fredoops]

Hey guys. Is the Mobil 0w40 a group IV? Seeing the prices I'm guessing it is.

So if I could get a 5L bottle for $50 I should get it like ASAP?

according to US sources it should be because Group 3 had trouble getting to that grade (the "0w")

[aaronng]

Hi Aaronng,
Also wanna ask about Castrol Edge 5w-40

1. Is the CastrolEdge 5w-40 better than CastrolEdge 5w-30?
2. is the CastrolEdge 5w-40 better than CastrolEdge 0w-40?

My car is 07 Euro, got 40,000k on the clock. I have been using 5w-30 for the past few years.. should i keep using 5w-30? or is 5w-40 better?

Thanks again for your help!!!
The new Edge 5w-40 is a Group III oil. So it is similar to the 5w-30. You can use either one as both will be fine for the Euro.

The 0w-40 is a Group IV, so it has better high temperature and more resistance to breaking down under harsh conditions than 5w-40. However, if your Euro is driven on the street and not on the track, then it won't matter since both oils will protect sufficiently. If you drive on the street, your oil temperature is about 80-90 ºC. But when you are on track for just 20 minutes, your oil temperature will go up to 110-130 ºC because of all the full throttle and high RPM. In the track situation, 0w-40 would be the better of the two (I have tried 5w-30 on the track and it still protected the engine, but I had to change the oil out immediately after as it felt a little rough. It was smooth again after replacing the oil).

[Fredoops]

Here's something posted on the Mr2 forums that I think will help a lot with those wondering between 5w-xx and 0w-xx.


Mobil 1 0w40 oil is much better than their 10w30 or 10w40 or anything thicker. In general, 0w oils have to be full on synthetics because its near impossible to get even a hydrocracked dino oil (group 3 synthetic as we know it) to maintain the properties of that thin when cold, while being able to maintain VI of a thicker oil when warm. Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic uses group3 hydrocracked bases. Even the Extended Performance stuff does. You gotta go thinner (0w30, 0w40) to get the TRUE synthetic. You can tell based on cost. Walmart wont even carry the 0w30 or 0w40 stuff. Its too expensive. The 10w30 stuff is 20 something a gallon. TRUE synthetic oil should cost you above ~6 bucks a quart minimum.

So, in general, pretty much whoever makes the oil, it has to be good stuff. Its going to be comprised of PAO Group4 and Ester based Group5 stocks.

For all intents and purposes here are the MAIN differences between a synthetic and a dino oil, and heres a reason to mostly avoid blends.

Synthetics (Im talking TRUE synthetics, Group4 and Group5 based stock oils) start out at their winter weight. They then put in their additive package which allows it to have a viscosity index (Or VI) of the thicker oil when at temp, (the 40 in the 0w40 is what Im referring to here), and have the VI of the thinner oil when cold (the 0w is what Im talking about here). What this means to you is, the additive package wears out over time. The oil itself does not. This is the important part. When the additive package wears out, the oil will slowly lose its rated weight (for intents and purposes, my definition of rated weight is the 40 in the 0w40 - the weight its designed to run at during normal operating temp). It will slowly revert back to the 0w rating. Now youd think that you dont want something that thin in your engine, and ideally you dont, HOWEVER, in the end, its more damaging to have oil too THICK in your engine during startup, than to have oil too THIN in your engine during normal operation.

Ok, so thats synthetic. Now dino oil is exactly the opposite. So, what that means is Dino oils start out at their rated weight (say in a standard 10w30 dino oil, it starts out at a 30 weight) with additives to get it to get down to the 10w rating when cold. As its additive package wears out (no, even dino oil doesnt really wear out, just the additive package does), it slowly starts to go back to its 30 weight when cold. So when dino oil wears out it gets too thick. Its too thick at startup, and it actually will even get thicker than 30 weight if you let it go too far. This is one of the main reasons why its super important to change dino oil at regular intervals, and one of the reasons why synthetic can go longer.

Now understanding the difference between the 2 in a nutshell, can help you understand why blends arent necessarily the best idea.

Another thing thats important to note is, ALL oil actually permanently thickens when it gets below freezing tempratures. Exposure to cold modifies the viscosity index, so its important not to buy excess oil and store it where its cold (anywhere below 50 degrees extended). And as such, it also modifies the way it acts in your engine. The difference is more profound in dino oil than synthetics. So, a 10w30 dino oil at freezing will have a different pour than 10w30 synthetic. The synthetic will be much thinner, even though on paper, the rating is the same.

And finally, synthetics, number for number ARE thinner, and they remain stickier (meaning they stick to metal surfaces better, and stay stuck longer than dinos)

I really hope this helps you guys with your decisions on what oils to use. And keep in mind, the oils we have today are vastly superior than what they had back when these engines were designed and the engineers made their viscosity index chart based on climate for the 3SGTE/5SFE motors. You dont have to stay in the 90s oil technology just cause your engine was designed back then.

Ideally, assuming your engine is tip/top, and all clearances are good, it isnt leaking oil all over, and it isnt burning it like mad, its ALWAYS better to go with the 0w first number, and a 30-40 weight 2nd number. And its NEVER better to have to run a thicker oil like a 20w50 on a more modern engine (anything made after say.. the 70s?), sure initially it might make your engine run quieter if you are developing an issue, or it might make your oil pressure light go off sooner at cold startup, but youre just killing it sooner for sure.

[aaronng]

The first number "0w" refers to -18 ºC which we will never experience in most of Australia unless you live up in the mountain areas. The second number is at 100 ºC which is very close to the operating temperature of the engine oil under normal conditions. So even when you start your engine first thing in the morning in Australia, it is at 10-20 ºC and not as extreme as -18ºC. In our case, even Group III is still good. My opinion is as long as you are not paying Group IV prices for Group III oil, it is fine. Of course, if you live in Europe or the Nordic countries where -18 ºC is considered warm, then of course go for Group IV!

[lf1234]

The new Edge 5w-40 is a Group III oil. So it is similar to the 5w-30. You can use either one as both will be fine for the Euro.

The 0w-40 is a Group IV, so it has better high temperature and more resistance to breaking down under harsh conditions than 5w-40. However, if your Euro is driven on the street and not on the track, then it won't matter since both oils will protect sufficiently. If you drive on the street, your oil temperature is about 80-90 ºC. But when you are on track for just 20 minutes, your oil temperature will go up to 110-130 ºC because of all the full throttle and high RPM. In the track situation, 0w-40 would be the better of the two (I have tried 5w-30 on the track and it still protected the engine, but I had to change the oil out immediately after as it felt a little rough. It was smooth again after replacing the oil).

I See!! Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :D

[adamc11]

My head is spinning with all this oil talk :S

I just purchased an '05 Euro that has about 60,000kms. What oil should i put in it, i am happy to spend money on something better? I won't be using it on the track.

[Fredoops]

My head is spinning with all this oil talk :S

I just purchased an '05 Euro that has about 60,000kms. What oil should i put in it, i am happy to spend money on something better? I won't be using it on the track.

Normal drain interval (6-10k km)
*US import Mobil One 5w-30 or 0w-40 (cause they are cheaper than your local supercheap pricing)
*Honda FEO ultra 5w-30 (rather expansive)
*Castrol edge sport, 5w-30 or 0w-40 (used to be good because its so cheap... but they are really expansive now with the new formula)

Longer drain interval (10-15/20k km)
*US import Mobil One Extended Performance 5w-30
*Amsoil 100% synthetic series 5w-30

Any of above will give you better protection than Honda FEO or any of the semi synthetic/dino oils on the market.

It comes down to value. Mobil one extended performance and Amsoil is tested on BITOG to give longer (up to 25k km) drain intervals (ie: optimal protection for longer). So you get more out of your buck. With those oils you could well follow a 12mth/15000km service interval (ala VW/Hyundai) instead of the rather stupid 6mth/10000 service interval.

Me myself I'd personally use the long service oils (Mobile 1 EP and Amsoil) because it gives me a level of comfort, and it cost no more than your average bottle of Honda FEO ultra.

[adamc11]

Thanks for that info.

What oil should i put in my 1986 Accord with 240,000kms? It doesn't use or burn any oil either.

[Fredoops]

Thanks for that info.

What oil should i put in my 1986 Accord with 240,000kms? It doesn't use or burn any oil either.
Mobil 1 has a high mileage oil you might wanna check out.

[adamc11]

Mobil 1 has a high mileage oil you might wanna check out.

Would castrol edge or mobil 1 be alright though?

[ds4]

I just purchased a CL9 2008 Euro that has about 60,000kms. What oil should i put in it? I won't be using it on the track. I am comparing between Penrite HPR5 5w-40 and Penrite Racing 10 10w-40. It says both oils are Full Synthetic. The plan is to change the oil and oil filter every 12 months or 10,000 km. With 25% off at Repco, the HPR5 is now around $43; Racing 10 around $57 per 5 liter bottle.

[Fredoops]

I just purchased a CL9 2008 Euro that has about 60,000kms. What oil should i put in it? I won't be using it on the track. I am comparing between Penrite HPR5 5w-40 and Penrite Racing 10 10w-40. It says both oils are Full Synthetic. The plan is to change the oil and oil filter every 12 months or 10,000 km. With 25% off at Repco, the HPR5 is now around $43; Racing 10 around $57 per 5 liter bottle.

HPR5 should be sufficient.

[Jasemas]

As long as you change your filter, most oils are fine (bearing in mind the weight is right)
Just watch the oil consumption

[ds4]

Anyone looking for genuine honda oil filter - check out this seller http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/151026783639?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Honda oil filter at the dealer is around $17 + $2 aluminium washer.

[ds4]

Castrol Edge 5w30 is on special for fathers day at Repco $35 per 5 litre bottle (Saturday 31 Aug 2013). I am running Penrite HPR5 at the moment. I was thinking to change to castrol edge 5w30 - is one better than the other for 2008 CL9 accord @60k km?

[aaronng]

Castrol Edge 5w30 is on special for fathers day at Repco $35 per 5 litre bottle (Saturday 31 Aug 2013). I am running Penrite HPR5 at the moment. I was thinking to to change to to castrol edge 5w30 - is one better than the other for 2008 CL9 accord @60k km?

HPR5 is slightly thicker. I think it is like a 5w-40 from the viscosity in the specifications. For the CL9 at 60K km, both oils work fine.

[Rooster]

Castrol Edge 5w30 is on special for fathers day at Repco $35 per 5 litre bottle (Saturday 31 Aug 2013). I am running Penrite HPR5 at the moment. I was thinking to change to castrol edge 5w30 - is one better than the other for 2008 CL9 accord @60k km?

ffs I just bought it for $70!!!

[Fredoops]

ffs I just bought it for $70!!!

you paid $70 for castrol edge?

[Rooster]

Lols yeah. That seemed to be the normal price for all stores. So I'm guessing I should have got something else for the price. What should I have gotten instead for next time?

[aaronng]

I get either of these when they are on sale:
Castrol edge 5w-30, edge 0w-40, shell helix ultra 5w-40, motul xcess 5w-40.

[Rooster]

How about when they aren't on sale. Should I get something else?

[ChaosMaster]

HPR5 is fine. I thought Castrol Edge was around the $50-60 mark usually. At least for the 5w30 anyways. Both are Group 3 I believe (Freddy will correct me). Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 5 if you want the full synthetic stuff, which is a group 4 & 5 blend. Not that you'ld notice any difference on the road.

[Fredoops]

How about when they aren't on sale. Should I get something else?

Penrite HPR5

[Rooster]

@ fredoops; you reached your message quota thing.
Mine didn't come with hoseclamps. What do?

[Fredoops]

@ fredoops; you reached your message quota thing.
Mine didn't come with hoseclamps. What do?

just buy some small hoseclamps from supercheap.

inbox cleared

[Rooster]

HPR5 is fine. I thought Castrol Edge was around the $50-60 mark usually. At least for the 5w30 anyways. Both are Group 3 I believe (Freddy will correct me). Penrite 10 Tenths Racing 5 if you want the full synthetic stuff, which is a group 4 & 5 blend. Not that you'ld notice any difference on the road.


Penrite HPR5

Sounds good, next time I'll get this if Castrol isn't on sale. I was thinking about it but did want to try Edge first, just a shame I didn't wait a couple of days.
Thanks

[ds4]

Is it recommended to stick with a particular oil type/brand? is there any harm changing oil brands if it is fully drained + filter change e.g. Penrite HPR5 5w40<--> Castrol Edge 5w30?

[aaronng]

Is it recommended to stick with a particular oil type/brand? is there any harm changing oil brands if it is fully drained + filter change e.g. Penrite HPR5 5w40<--> Castrol Edge 5w30?

You can change however you want. Only a few oil types should not be mixed and they tend to be specialty racing oils.

[by-life]

Manual doesnt allow anything over Xw-40 weight, so stick below that.


My cars done 125k and I've used full synthetic 5w-30 Mobil 1 extended performance and it was really good. Now I'm running mobil 1 0w-40 (gold bottle), both on extended drain interval.

Our euro loves synthetic.

Ps: castrol edge no longer exist, it's now edge Titanium formula, it's a lot more expansive now, reason people used castrol edge before is because its really cheap when on special.


If you are really paranoid, Mobil one does have a "high milage formula" in 5w-40. Check it out, it's American import, a shop in Melbourne sells them.


Thanks for the information.

I will give a try in my euro.

[Nigel Euro]

I just picked up 5 Litres of Castrol Edge 5W-40. On special at Repco for $40. It says its fully Synthetic. Who knows it may be a blend. Never used it before so thought I might give it a go as it may suit the cold Canberra winters. Some days the mercury barely gets above 5 Deg C and its usually about 2-3 Deg C on the drive to work. Anyone else tried the Edge 5W-40? Oh they also have the old faithful 20W-50 for $15. May be handy to have in the shed for emergency top ups.

http://catalogues.repco.com.au/catalogue/repco-catalogue-turbo-deals/4z0tycu4r.html?pid=promotedCatalogue#pageNo=0

[Rooster]

Yeah people have tried it on here. That's a good price might get one now for next oil change.