K20A Turbo Pro’s and con’s question

[Lukezen27]

Well people

Yall new it wouldn't be long before I started asking questions about boosting my EP3 hahah

My question relates to the oil return line..

Now on a K20A the sump hole and bolt are directly below manifold making it a great option for the return line instead of going to the huge trouble of removing the pan and welding on a new one...

Pro’s and con’s of doing this?

In fact the GRRedy kit uses this method but not many others do, why not?

[DLO01]

Huge trouble removing the pan? Is it harder than a B series? Cause B series is easy as.

Quite simple rule. As long as the drain point on the turbo is higher than the level of oil in the sump pan it will drain fine, even if the point of entry to the sump is below oil level, in this case the sump plug.

[Lukezen27]

Huge trouble removing the pan? Is it harder than a B series? Cause B series is easy as.

Quite simple rule. As long as the drain point on the turbo is higher than the level of oil in the sump pan it will drain fine, even if the point of entry to the sump is below oil level, in this case the sump plug.

Hey Deano

I could remove my B with my eye's closed

With the EP3 you need to drop the whole sub-frame

And yeah is seems quite simple and should work fine but all the build posts on EP3 they're removed and welded and new one

[lookingforboost]

remove it and weld on higher than the oil line, lower could cause a backup of pressure and oil and kill the turbo espically a ball bearing on very quickly

[beeza]

Well people

Yall new it wouldn't be long before I started asking questions about boosting my EP3 hahah

All I can say is 'Ya must have a good paying job!'.

[Lukezen27]

remove it and weld on higher than the oil line, lower could cause a backup of pressure and oil and kill the turbo espically a ball bearing on very quickly

Seems to work fine for the GRRedy kit Ryan


All I can say is 'Ya must have a good paying job!'.

Nope just a folklift driver but i'm good at saving :)

[IEVAQ8]

i wouldnt use the greddy method....
it will be worth while stripping the k-sump out and getting it welded, and in the mean time, get a baffle too...

[Lukezen27]

i wouldnt use the greddy method....
it will be worth while stripping the k-sump out and getting it welded, and in the mean time, get a baffle too...

But my question is why not use the method?

[fat_85_civic]

When the oil comes out of the turbo through the drain it is all "frothed" up, like the top of a milk shake kind of. This is why the drain tube must be much larger than the oil feed. When oil is in this state it is much less dense than the oil in the pan and if it is returned below the surface level it will have trouble leaving the drain pipe, it will just build up on top of the oil in the pipe. If it is above the oil level it will easily flow out.

Not the best explanation but that's how i think it works. I can draw a picture in paint maybe if I haven't explained it clearly.

Luke

[Lukezen27]

When the oil comes out of the turbo through the drain it is all "frothed" up, like the top of a milk shake kind of. This is why the drain tube must be much larger than the oil feed. When oil is in this state it is much less dense than the oil in the pan and if it is returned below the surface level it will have trouble leaving the drain pipe, it will just build up on top of the oil in the pipe. If it is above the oil level it will easily flow out.

Not the best explanation but that's how i think it works. I can draw a picture in paint maybe if I haven't explained it clearly.

Luke

I completely understand how gravity works

The oil in the return line will stay at he same level as the oil pan level but should keep flowing without a problem using -10 with a huge hose

I'm seriously thinks of using this method as no one has shown me any real reason not to

Though the frothed example is the closest so far :)

[beeza]

Nope just a folklift driver but i'm good at saving :)

That's the trick!

Mi-goreng Noodles FTW!!! LOL

GO HARD LUKEY!!!! :)

[IEVAQ8]

But my question is why not use the method?

the common sense things, says how can u return oil or any liquid into something (oil pan) that already has oil in it....
especially when trying to return it into the bulk of it, regardless wat greddy or anyone else uses, the oil return needs to be as high as possible in the sump/pan and above the oil level in the pan ...

[lookingforboost]

because greddy use thrust bearing turbo chargers not ball bearing dosent matter as much for these types of turbos as they need a much higher flow of oil then a ball bearing unit and less affected by heat oil pressure and flow fine for the greddy turbo kits and only running low boost would be ok.

Once you add the ball bearing unit these are susceptible to heat oil pressure and flow as you would have found out before when your restrictor was wrong luke, if it builds up you could put excessive pressure on the bearings and cause turbo failure prematurly or cause excessive smoking out the exhaust :)

hope that clears up the reason for you luke , i had it setup like that for my turbo SSS it was ok but it did blow a bit of smoke up in the RPM range due to this.

[TODA AU]

In fact the GRRedy kit uses this method but not many others do, why not?
Luke, the Greddy kit is cheap & nasty... So it stands to reason they would continue this theme throughout their whole kit.
Cheap turbo, cheapo manifold, cheapo cooler etc etc & absolute garbage ECU solution
Sorry Greddy lovers... But it's true.

Other manufacturers have higher standards that come at higher prices.
Done right, a K20A will make 230kw @ 8psi without issue... (Full Race is a good example)
Greddy & similar kits battle to get past 180kw...
(K's like B's don't work so well with little turbos)

[Lukezen27]

Luke, the Greddy kit is cheap & nasty... So it stands to reason they would continue this theme throughout their whole kit.
Cheap turbo, cheapo manifold, cheapo cooler etc etc & absolute garbage ECU solution
Sorry Greddy lovers... But it's true.

Other manufacturers have higher standards that come at higher prices.
Done right, a K20A will make 230kw @ 8psi without issue... (Full Race is a good example)
Greddy & similar kits battle to get past 180kw...
(K's like B's don't work so well with little turbos)


Hey Adrian

I'm going with ether the Full Race or Rev harder kit

Was just interested in the way Greddy returns the oil not there crap kit :)

[Lukezen27]

Luke, the Greddy kit is cheap & nasty... So it stands to reason they would continue this theme throughout their whole kit.
Cheap turbo, cheapo manifold, cheapo cooler etc etc & absolute garbage ECU solution
Sorry Greddy lovers... But it's true.

Other manufacturers have higher standards that come at higher prices.
Done right, a K20A will make 230kw @ 8psi without issue... (Full Race is a good example)
Greddy & similar kits battle to get past 180kw...
(K's like B's don't work so well with little turbos)

I've looked into the Full Race kit but it dosen't look like it will fit the EP3R

There's not enough space between the motor and firewall, there's cooling piping in the way that's not on the USA SI models

Have you seem one of these installed on an EP3 or what it a DC5?

[TODA AU]

We upper the ante on the turbo DC5R with the Fullrace kit yesterday.
The new output is 280kw @ the wheels.
Boost pressure is now 12psi.
Engine is still internally stock.

[bennjamin]

We upper the ante on the turbo DC5R with the Fullrace kit yesterday.
The new output is 280kw @ the wheels.
Boost pressure is now 12psi.
Engine is still internally stock.


For those with a k series and want boost - that sounds the way to go. Amazing figures for a bolt on kit !

[Lukezen27]

For those with a k series and want boost - that sounds the way to go. Amazing figures for a bolt on kit !

That's not really a bolt-on heaps of work needed in moving other things but yeah insane numbers

I now hate Adrian!!!!

Was just get'n used to saying N/A and he temps me with those foking numbers hahah

[2002 TeGgY]

We upper the ante on the turbo DC5R with the Fullrace kit yesterday.
The new output is 280kw @ the wheels.
Boost pressure is now 12psi.
Engine is still internally stock.

oh wow! is that on the blue dc5r? does indeed sound tempting hahaha...high comp, high boost k24? :p

on a seriouse note, if you look at the price it will set you back...then a fully built k20/24 adds up better...i was in the same position as you 2 years back, was so so close to purchase the fullrace kit, but then i couldnt justify spending double what it would cost to build a k20/24...and also you gotta look at the reliability side of things...even fully built, a turbo setup will still cause you head aches...just my $0.02

[Benson]

Great numbers for a bolt-on kit. Seems like the yanks has really push the boundaries of these stock k-series engine with boost. There is plenty of internally stock k-series engine with boost making over 500hps (10sec 1/4mile passes)

It comes down to personal perference fadi. Some guys like heaps of power and you can only achieve that with forced induction. You might be happy with a 180 odd kws. Some guys want to make over 300kw. You can only achieve that with a turbo or supercharge kit. You also gotta remember if you do break a stock engine ( pretty hard to break unless its tuned really poorly), its heaps cheaper to replace than a fully built k-series all motor. In what ways would a turbo set-up cause headaches?

[2002 TeGgY]

benny, i would love more power...but i also want reliability, because when i drive my car...i really drive it lol, i hate babying cars and not being able to use them to their full potential. you cant tell me that a boosted setup is as reliable as an NA setup...especially for a daily. and for drag purposes...230kw+ using normal tyres in a dc5/ep3 wont even get you into the 12's, and if you use slicks with a standard box, it will break. dont get me wrong, i would love to boost my car one day (and it will be done eventually) but i would do it all properly as in dog gears and billet driveshafts to get the power down safely...which will cost $20k+

[lil_foy]

benny, i would love more power...but i also want reliability, because when i drive my car...i really drive it lol, i hate babying cars and not being able to use them to their full potential. you cant tell me that a boosted setup is as reliable as an NA setup...especially for a daily. and for drag purposes...230kw+ using normal tyres in a dc5/ep3 wont even get you into the 12's, and if you use slicks with a standard box, it will break. dont get me wrong, i would love to boost my car one day (and it will be done eventually) but i would do it all properly as in dog gears and billet driveshafts to get the power down safely...which will cost $20k+

So realistically its not the fact its boosted, its your driving style thats making it unreliable

[2002 TeGgY]

So realistically its not the fact its boosted, its your driving style thats making it unreliable

mate i had my current engine for nearly 2 years now...not a single issue...im sure if i went for the boosted option, it would have been a different story.

[lil_foy]

mate i had my current engine for nearly 2 years now...not a single issue...im sure if i went for the boosted option, it would have been a different story.

I just think thats a bit of a generalization, just like your current motor, if you build a turbo kit well you shouldn't have problems.

[TODA AU]

benny, i would love more power...but i also want reliability, because when i drive my car...i really drive it lol, i hate babying cars and not being able to use them to their full potential. you cant tell me that a boosted setup is as reliable as an NA setup...especially for a daily. and for drag purposes...230kw+ using normal tyres in a dc5/ep3 wont even get you into the 12's, and if you use slicks with a standard box, it will break. dont get me wrong, i would love to boost my car one day (and it will be done eventually) but i would do it all properly as in dog gears and billet driveshafts to get the power down safely...which will cost $20k+
You can't actually thrash a boosted K like this for long on the street.
After 3 sec of WOT, you're going fast enough to lose your license.
A little after that & you're off to gaol.
We'll have a 1/4 mile time soon, then set it up for circuit abuse.
Reliability hasn't been an issue for the last few years at 230kw.
Logic says it won't last as long now, but then again, that's what we said last time.
If It's still ok in 6 months, I'll sort out the fuel system & go for 16+psi.
The ignition may need a look see also.
Going this way isn't as cheap as some other bolt on kits, but it sure pays off in grunt.
Fullrace products get the big thumbs up from me.:)

[EG5]

We upper the ante on the turbo DC5R with the Fullrace kit yesterday.
The new output is 280kw @ the wheels.
Boost pressure is now 12psi.
Engine is still internally stock.

Nice power
Full Race turbo kit :thumbsup:

[bennjamin]

These bolt on kits utilise the oem intake manifold and equal exhaust runners etc? Do they amplify the characteristics or are just a plod of lag then top end power ?
I ask , for what use would be this power at a race
Track not just the 1/4

[fatboyz39]

What turbo size Adrian?:

[hisoka]

Great numbers for a bolt-on kit. Seems like the yanks has really push the boundaries of these stock k-series engine with boost. There is plenty of internally stock k-series engine with boost making over 500hps (10sec 1/4mile passes

that is crazy. i just cant imagine the engine holding up for more then 2 months but ? even stock turbo engines like sr20 and rb20 cant do that , thats insane

[DLO01]

Depends on how you drive it. Cooling aids etc. The whole setup.

[lil_foy]

that is crazy. i just cant imagine the engine holding up for more then 2 months but ? even stock turbo engines like sr20 and rb20 cant do that , thats insane

Stock sr's an rb20's also don't make anywhere near as much power as a K series, compare it to say a sr20ve 20v and you might have a fair comparison from nissan

[bartek]

hi rhere ladies, im the owner of the 280 dc5r, 281.5 exactly. for those who think k wont last long or wont last at all at the 1/4 is rubbish, i have had the car since new, 2002 that is and its been turboed for 3 years now. all i can say is that the motor has 110,000 kms on it and it has never been babyed and ive never had any problems with it. to mr teggy. i dont think you realise what 280kw of power is on the road, you cant phisically use it all, you simply run out of road. it is nothing like an n/a dc5 with 130 - 140kw @ da wheels. ive had that and spanked it all day long. anyhow big thanks to adrian, hes been my tuner and a machanic and a sweatheart friend for a long time now. his tunes never miss a bit, spot on perfect every time. car feels so smooth and beautifull to drive now, especially with all that power on tap and a few other tricks weve added. and for those who think they will bolt on a turbo kit on a dc5 and expenses will end there. you have another thing comin goodluck.

[Benson]

Adrian,

Why the need for ignition system? The stock k-series coils can handle close to 700-800hp with no issue from what i've seen.

Is this car on e85?

[Benson]

that is crazy. i just cant imagine the engine holding up for more then 2 months but ? even stock turbo engines like sr20 and rb20 cant do that , thats insane

It will last as long as the tune is good. K-series are really tough motors that make great power! The reason why they make so much power with boost is due to its efficiency

[2002 TeGgY]

to mr teggy. i dont think you realise what 280kw of power is on the road, you cant phisically use it all, you simply run out of road. it is nothing like an n/a dc5 with 130 - 140kw @ da wheels. ive had that and spanked it all day long. anyhow big thanks to adrian, hes been my tuner and a machanic and a sweatheart friend for a long time now. his tunes never miss a bit, spot on perfect every time. car feels so smooth and beautifull to drive now, especially with all that power on tap and a few other tricks weve added. and for those who think they will bolt on a turbo kit on a dc5 and expenses will end there. you have another thing comin goodluck.

lol...ok mate. good luck out at the strip...this should run a mid-low 11 second run with that power...and hopefully you're right and it wont break with slicks if you're running with slicks...12.4 is the time to beat ;)

[TODA AU]

These bolt on kits utilise the oem intake manifold and equal exhaust runners etc? Do they amplify the characteristics or are just a plod of lag then top end power ?
I ask , for what use would be this power at a race
Track not just the 1/4
Std intake or other intake manifolds can be used, this one uses an RBC.
The charateristic of the engine is amplified. Since the C/R is std there's no drop from std power off boost so boost is only a benifit on top of std power.
Even at 1500rpm you're making 1~2psi putting the output above that of a stock engine.
As for usability on the track/strip, we'll find out soon enough.

What turbo size Adrian?:
GT30

Adrian,
Why the need for ignition system? The stock k-series coils can handle close to 700-800hp with no issue from what i've seen.
Is this car on e85?
Fuel type is 98RON Premium unleaded from the bowser, nothing special here.
Re ignition, so far it's holding up just fine & that may well stay the case, with nothing needed to be done now or in the future.
I just wouldn't rule it out as a potential issue in future with more boost, that's all.

lol...ok mate. good luck out at the strip...this should run a mid-low 11 second run with that power...and hopefully you're right and it wont break with slicks if you're running with slicks...12.4 is the time to beat ;)
Bart's already run a 12.6 @ 116mph on semi's (220kw @ 8psi), so I'd say that a 12.4 or better is well within striking distance now.
Obviously we're hoping for the mid-low 11 sec pass like you said, but it comes down to being able to drive it to do that.
So, like anything, with enough practice it won't be too much of an issue. Once it's done we can brag, untill than it's all just theory.

[2002 TeGgY]

Bart's already run a 12.6 @ 116mph on semi's (220kw @ 8psi), so I'd say that a 12.4 or better is well within striking distance now.
Obviously we're hoping for the mid-low 11 sec pass like you said, but it comes down to being able to drive it to do that.
So, like anything, with enough practice it won't be too much of an issue. Once it's done we can brag, untill than it's all just theory.

That's awesome! very impressive on semi's! what was the 60' if you dont mind me asking? can't wait to see what this beast does with the new power output. time to chuck on some 15" wheels and slicks. also is it still running the standard 6speed? might be worth while to swap it for the base model 5speed. again, good luck the the strip :thumbsup:

[TODA AU]

That's awesome! very impressive on semi's! what was the 60' if you dont mind me asking? can't wait to see what this beast does with the new power output. time to chuck on some 15" wheels and slicks. also is it still running the standard 6speed? might be worth while to swap it for the base model 5speed. again, good luck the the strip :thumbsup:
When I drove it at the drags, I got a 2.5sec 60ft & a 13.1sec @ 118mph (Shiite ET but OK mph), Barts 60ft was either 2.0 or 2.1sec from memory with consistent high 12's
As for 15's, It's got the brembo brake front so it's a bit of a bother to fit smaller wheels. Currently it's got 10" wide front rims with 255 tyres.
Traction isn't too bad with the increased power, the big wide tyres, taller ratios & M-Factory clutch LSD all playing their parts.
Touch wood, it should cross in 4th gear now at 125+ mph... (But we'll know for sure soon enough)

[2002 TeGgY]

When I drove it at the drags, I got a 2.5sec 60ft & a 13.1sec @ 118mph (Shiite ET but OK mph), Barts 60ft was either 2.0 or 2.1sec from memory with consistent high 12's
As for 15's, It's got the brembo brake front so it's a bit of a bother to fit smaller wheels. Currently it's got 10" wide front rims with 255 tyres.
Traction isn't too bad with the increased power, the big wide tyres, taller ratios & M-Factory clutch LSD all playing their parts.
Touch wood, it should cross in 4th gear now at 125+ mph... (But we'll know for sure soon enough)

shouldn't be too hard to fit up some base model brakes upfront...it's what everyone does in the states, and how i fitted my 15's on mine. i still think you need slicks to run 11's...here's a vid of a turbo dc5 running 11.4 @ 124mph....im guessing similar power to Bart's one, as you can see slicks were used...


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2f3rsV16lIY&playnext=1&list=PL67376543764D0CDC

[TODA AU]

shouldn't be too hard to fit up some base model brakes upfront...it's what everyone does in the states, and how i fitted my 15's on mine. i still think you need slicks to run 11's...here's a vid of a turbo dc5 running 11.4 @ 124mph....im guessing similar power to Bart's one, as you can see slicks were used...

Guess we'll have to wait & see. We'll try it with the semi's 1st & if it doesn't work then look at slicks like you said.
An 11.4 @ 124mph would be nice though. :) :thumbsup:
(I notice the US car also crosses in 4th gear too so we might be on the right track)

[fatboyz39]

That could be a 5 speed :).

[TODA AU]

That could be a 5 speed :).
You are probably right, if not perhaps it's a USDM 02~04 RSX Type S box?
Either way, on paper we can cross in 4th at 125mph+ with the new ratios, so no need for the 5 speed.

[2002 TeGgY]

Guess we'll have to wait & see. We'll try it with the semi's 1st & if it doesn't work then look at slicks like you said.
An 11.4 @ 124mph would be nice though. :) :thumbsup:
(I notice the US car also crosses in 4th gear too so we might be on the right track)

sounds good...when is it heading out to wsid? i wish i had longer gears...always finish in fifth. still hardly doubt that it will run 11's on semi's even with all that power and longer gears.

[hisoka]

how much power this blue dc5 11.5 got ?

what size turbo ? anyone know.


reading the comments they say the stock crank is very capable, 700hp capable ?

[Benson]

how much power this blue dc5 11.5 got ?

what size turbo ? anyone know.


reading the comments they say the stock crank is very capable, 700hp capable ?

Some guys has push over 800-900 hp on the stock crank. Rods and piston is a must

[DC2-PWR]

lol...ok mate. good luck out at the strip...this should run a mid-low 11 second run with that power...and hopefully you're right and it wont break with slicks if you're running with slicks...12.4 is the time to beat ;)

Wicked time,

YBOOST set a damn good record for an N/A K20A aswell. 12.32, his car is truley legendary.

Can't wait till this EP3 is done.

[Killa From Manila]

hi rhere ladies, im the owner of the 280 dc5r, 281.5 exactly. for those who think k wont last long or wont last at all at the 1/4 is rubbish, i have had the car since new, 2002 that is and its been turboed for 3 years now. all i can say is that the motor has 110,000 kms on it and it has never been babyed and ive never had any problems with it. to mr teggy. i dont think you realise what 280kw of power is on the road, you cant phisically use it all, you simply run out of road. it is nothing like an n/a dc5 with 130 - 140kw @ da wheels. ive had that and spanked it all day long. anyhow big thanks to adrian, hes been my tuner and a machanic and a sweatheart friend for a long time now. his tunes never miss a bit, spot on perfect every time. car feels so smooth and beautifull to drive now, especially with all that power on tap and a few other tricks weve added. and for those who think they will bolt on a turbo kit on a dc5 and expenses will end there. you have another thing comin goodluck.

what other things did you have to spend money on? upgraded gearbox, lsd, clutch, or was it due to stuff breaking coz of the added power? and tips for those looking to boost a dc5r?

[TODA AU]

what other things did you have to spend money on? upgraded gearbox, lsd, clutch, or was it due to stuff breaking coz of the added power? and tips for those looking to boost a dc5r?

Clutch & flywheel.
Fuel system - pump, injectors - optional reg & rail.
Various lines, braided or otherwise.
Oil cooler & associated parts.
Engine mounts
ECU & tuning costs that are associated
Brakes
Suspension
Engineer's report & changes required to comply.
Insurance
Exhaust system
Air box etc
There's probably a few more too...

Best tip is to not use a mediocre kit.
(Unless you're after mediocre results)
There is a lot in the tuning but only if everything else is up to the job.
Otherwise you'll need "Harry Potter" to tune it.

So far Bart hasn't busted anything.

[munkaii]

Hi all,

As a completely noob question, all these posts mentioning the strength of the K-block, is it applicable only to the k20 or does the k24 exhibit similar characteristics?

[bennjamin]

wow just learnt k20a motors are square motors ( same bore and stroke of 86mm)
The k24 is bore 87mm and stroke 99mm. Adrian and others , does that essentially mean .5mm either side sleeves ?

[2002 TeGgY]

Some guys has push over 800-900 hp on the stock crank. Rods and piston is a must

if you're pumping out 800hp+ then for sure it's not just rods+pistons...the block will be sleeved as well


Wicked time,

YBOOST set a damn good record for an N/A K20A aswell. 12.32, his car is truley legendary.

Can't wait till this EP3 is done.

YBOOST is a dc2r...100kg+ weight advantage over a dc5r/epr3


So far Bart hasn't busted anything.

yeh but is it his daily driver?

[TODA AU]

yeh but is it his daily driver?
No, he only takes it out to punnish it... LOL
So it doesn't really see much stop start traffic driving.
That may or may not give a false look at it's true reliability.
Fair point though.

[fatboyz39]

Someone organise a honda drag night. buillt n/a k series vs bolt on turbo stock k20.

[TODA AU]

Someone organise a honda drag night. buillt n/a k series vs bolt on turbo stock k20.
Sounds like a fun night, I'll hastle Bart & see when he's off night shift.
(might be able to do it in say 2 weeks or so)

[2002 TeGgY]

Someone organise a honda drag night. buillt n/a k series vs bolt on turbo stock k20.

im down for this...but sometime in march/april ;) even though im 100% sure i will be demolished, should be a fun comparison

[bartek]

im down for this to boys, really busy with work at the moment so no go for at least 2 weeks. sorry

[Lukezen27]

Last nights run


I got 14.2 with a crap 2.3 60F

Was getting 2.2 60F all night too...

For 41C on track that times not to bad but I was hoping for flat 14 in this heat

[2002 TeGgY]

thats not a bad time considering the conditions...is it stock? if so then thats actually pretty good :)

[Lukezen27]

thats not a bad time considering the conditions...is it stock? if so then thats actually pretty good :)

na IHE

Haltech and return 136kw

With the cheap rubber that came with the car though

I ran 14.8 completely stock

99MPH

[2002 TeGgY]

ah ok...i ran a 13.7@105mph with about the same power output as you...but that was done in winter...and i had mugen mounts (frikin shit). try setting the launch control to around 4,500rpm and riding the clutch off the line, also jack up tyre pressure at the rear to about 40psi and 18-20psi at the fronts, that should net you a 2.0 60". also do you have coilovers? they actually help quite a bit.

[Lukezen27]

ah ok...i ran a 13.7@105mph with about the same power output as you...but that was done in winter...and i had mugen mounts (frikin shit). try setting the launch control to around 4,500rpm and riding the clutch off the line, also jack up tyre pressure at the rear to about 40psi and 18-20psi at the fronts, that should net you a 2.0 60". also do you have coilovers? they actually help quite a bit.

all planed in for next time in the cool :)

my launch control was round 7 for some reason...

Will have to change that :(

Nope stock shocks unlike my Turbo EG

[dlai5552]

wouldnt adding a turbo to a K-series engine like a DC5, throw the car off balance because it wasnt mad for it. therefore, requiring a lot more money to adjust etc to suit the turbo.

[TODA AU]

wouldnt adding a turbo to a K-series engine like a DC5, throw the car off balance because it wasnt mad for it. therefore, requiring a lot more money to adjust etc to suit the turbo.
Any significant change to the output of the engine will change the character of the car it's fitted to & common sense would dictate that both brakes & suspension should be improved to retain a level of safety.
This is true for both normally aspirated & forced induction applications so if that approach is beyond your budget or inconceivable, you really aught not modify the car in the 1st place.