brake pads?

[mugen_ctr]

Having recently discovering how bad my brakes were, iev opted to get new pads for the front...
What are ur experiences with good pads? im not wanting super expensive pads, just some that make for good stopping, dry an wet, an definate not racing pads lol

Atm its only front disc an rear drum, next year will be doin rear brake converison, so for now im just wanting front pads

Iev been told EJ an EM1 use same front calipers, is it true? i sure hope so lol

thanks

[dougie_504]

What's 'expensive' to you?

Maybe try Endless pads if you're not too strapped for money, but otherwise I would try Bendix Ultimates (not Bendix Heavy Duty apparently they're shit).

[mugen_ctr]

100 upto 200 or so, I dont plan on trackin any time soon

[dougie_504]

Then I'd just go Bendix Ultimate :)

[blabla]

ultimates are over priced i can ebc green stuff for 165 a set.

[jks24]

JDM yard acre look good, they are 175 a set I think?

Endless are expensive :(

[TheSaint]

i would get EBC green stuff or project MJU best stop

[dougie_504]

At the end of the day brake pads surely aren't the thing to go cheap on. Pay decent money for a decent product man :)

[jks24]

At the end of the day brake pads surely aren't the thing to go cheap on. Pay decent money for a decent product man :)

and change them yourself

The money you save on labour could be put towards buying more expensive pads ;)

[da12nv]

ive got bendix ct's they stop well in all weather and they were only like $70 - $80 and doesnt have brake dust, and dont forget to get your rotors machined flat or just buy new ones i just bought new ones which ended up being $35 more than machining the old ones

[Nighthawk_S]

I just bought EBC ultimax pads off ebay for my EG civic for $65 delivered, they seem fine, just like OEM I guess, probably a bit better. There's also EBC greenstuff pads on ebay for around $150. I deemed these not necessary for my car seeing as its a daily driver runabout.

[mugen_ctr]

yea good advice about the rotors

Im leaning towards bendix an green stuff, as iev read few good stuff about em, either way, they both would perform way better than oem Lol

Any point in getting slotted rotors, or just stick to machined oem disc?

[jks24]

yea good advice about the rotors

Im leaning towards bendix an green stuff, as iev read few good stuff about em, either way, they both would perform way better than oem Lol

Any point in getting slotted rotors, or just stick to machined oem disc?

A mate of mine uses green stuff, he said he is happy with them. My rears are 95% worn so I will be changing them soon. Still deciding what pads to get though. Spend the most money on the front and get slotted rotors for there, thats what im going to do eventually anyways.

Your OEM discs might not need machining, check them

[markismaximus]

Your OEM discs might not need machining, check them

its good practice to machine discs whenever the pads are changed, the new pad material needs to transfer onto the rotor. If they aren't machined the old pad material can prevent new pad material transfer

[mocchi]

its good practice to machine discs whenever the pads are changed, the new pad material needs to transfer onto the rotor. If they aren't machined the old pad material can contaminate the rotor

did you mean old pad material on rotor can contaminate new pad?

[markismaximus]

did you mean old pad material on rotor can contaminate new pad?

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

[jdm_b16a]

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

Mark,

I'm not convinced that that's the case. It's also troublesome and time consuming, and the costs add up, to get the discs machined every time you swap pads. I did a whole year (6 meetings, one qualifying and three races per meeting) on a set of Bendix Ultimates with little or no retardation in stopping power that I noticed, and I drove the car at its limit. The brakes were shot at the end but that's pretty good life on an inexpensive set of pads (front and back but only the front were gonnas!)

Do you have a reference for this advice - I'm not questioning your wisdom just would be nice to read some more on this proposition.

In any case, I always stick to Bendix - they work, and are easily purchased at places like SCA or REPCO for a reasonable price.

Peter

[mocchi]

sought of, I've edited the above post. old pad material more-so prevents the new pad material from transfering onto the rotor, basically makes bedding-in the pads harder

yeah i think thats what i read too about pad bed in procedure on stop-tech tech article.
however, for a daily driver i personally wouldnt bother for my car. haha.

here we go. faq #6
http://www.stoptech.com/tech_info/wp_bedinfaq.shtml

[markismaximus]

Mark,

I'm not convinced that that's the case. It's also troublesome and time consuming, and the costs add up, to get the discs machined every time you swap pads. I did a whole year (6 meetings, one qualifying and three races per meeting) on a set of Bendix Ultimates with little or no retardation in stopping power that I noticed, and I drove the car at its limit. The brakes were shot at the end but that's pretty good life on an inexpensive set of pads (front and back but only the front were gonnas!)

Do you have a reference for this advice - I'm not questioning your wisdom just would be nice to read some more on this proposition.

In any case, I always stick to Bendix - they work, and are easily purchased at places like SCA or REPCO for a reasonable price.

Peter

Hey Peter, here are some reference docs I could easily find

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/index.php/technical/75-bedding-in-of-pads-and-rotors.html

http://www.ebcbrakes.com.au/index.php/technical/172--when-changing-brake-pads-tb-10.html

It makes complete sense for the rotor to be machined when changing to a different pad material in my head. The pad material is microscopically imbedded in the rotor surface, which helps create the friction between the two. If the rotor surface is "clogged" with old pad material how can the new pad material transfer onto the rotor.

I'm not saying you won't be able to stop, just saying the pads may not be functioning at 100%

[Alvis]

yea good advice about the rotors

Im leaning towards bendix an green stuff, as iev read few good stuff about em, either way, they both would perform way better than oem Lol

Any point in getting slotted rotors, or just stick to machined oem disc?

Back to the original question from mugen_ctr - this website has some good prices, probably where I'll be getting my new Bendix Ultimates:

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/clutch-and-brake/disc-pads/bendix-ultimate-disc-pads.html


This thread I started below earlier in the year also might have some good info for you:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?132183-RDA-vs-DBA-Slotted-Brake-Rotors

[markismaximus]

http://www.eziautoparts.com.au/clutch-and-brake/disc-pads/bendix-ultimate-disc-pads.html


I've bought stuff from eziauto before. Have pretty good prices, but often they don't have stock of what you order....

[Alvis]

good to know; and if they can order it in at same price it would be ok, i guess it just depends how quick you need the parts

but just run a check on the bendix website for your part number:

http://www.bendix.com.au/catalogue?manufacturer=Honda&model=Civic

[EK1.6LCIV]

The ultimates with stood a good 40 laps of QRs national circuit in my buddies ek hatch with a b18c, brakes were just ek4 fronts and cxi rear drums. Smoke began to form after 30 laps or so, very good value braking, may post a video later from the weekend :)

remember to not let the car sit when this happens, drive a few kilometers at slow speeds to cool them down so they don't break down other components :)

[MRK20CRX]

I'd save up a bit more and get some P-MU bestop pads, they bite crazy and the stopping power is amazing

[Alvis]

so to try and get some perspective if you were to upgrade your rotors on an EK1/EM1 application (not sure you really need to on a pretty stock street car) - which would you buy:

- Slotted DBAs (more for looks I would say) or
- Brembo solid discs from US (fair bit cheaper than DBAs incl delivery to Oz)

[TheSaint]

I'd save up a bit more and get some P-MU bestop pads, they bite crazy and the stopping power is amazing

good advice

it all depends how hard you drive your car - if you want stopping power and your brakes are heating up alot get PM-U bestop and some DBA slotted rotors
if you want a higher quality rotor go for RDA gold - slotted and dimpled =)

[MRK20CRX]

Or some P-MU discs :)

[Bludger]

Having recently discovering how bad my brakes were, iev opted to get new pads for the front...
What are ur experiences with good pads? im not wanting super expensive pads, just some that make for good stopping, dry an wet, an definate not racing pads lol

Atm its only front disc an rear drum, next year will be doin rear brake converison, so for now im just wanting front pads

Iev been told EJ an EM1 use same front calipers, is it true? i sure hope so lol

thanksForget everything everyone else has suggested.

they are either stock spec or race spec.

what you're after is Ferodo ds2500.

Its high performance street/occasional track day pad.

bit dusty though.

Ferodo ds3000 is race spec.

[Alvis]

Ahh.. interesting suggestion on the Ferodo's - what's the retail on those for a set?

And is there such a thing as getting a pad that's 'too hard' for OEM disks?

[mugen_ctr]

agreed, a pricing on those Ferodo ds2500 please.... these have been rated very well, but heard the price tag is in the 280 bracket....

I honestly dont mind if the pads give off a lot of dust, since i wash the car once a week, but given that its giving off dust, wouldnt that mean it doesnt have a long life span?

If its anything over 200 i cant really justify spending more as i dont track it, where as real world driving its a unforeseen situation, so good braking power is a necessity...an on a budget, as a student, $$$ LOL

From what i know, solid disc are fine on track, but slotted for the more serious track, as it disperse the heat much quicker... which is why im just sticking to maching oem disc... no need to go slotted if its a daily, if so, please give ur reasons for upgrading em :)

iev got the tires to back it up, BF goodrich Sports, grippy as but stopping power is letting it all down

[jks24]

agreed, a pricing on those Ferodo ds2500 please.... these have been rated very well, but heard the price tag is in the 280 bracket....

I honestly dont mind if the pads give off a lot of dust, since i wash the car once a week, but given that its giving off dust, wouldnt that mean it doesnt have a long life span?

If its anything over 200 i cant really justify spending more as i dont track it, where as real world driving its a unforeseen situation, so good braking power is a necessity...an on a budget, as a student, $$$ LOL

From what i know, solid disc are fine on track, but slotted for the more serious track, as it disperse the heat much quicker... which is why im just sticking to maching oem disc... no need to go slotted if its a daily, if so, please give ur reasons for upgrading em :)

iev got the tires to back it up, BF goodrich Sports, grippy as but stopping power is letting it all down

JDM Yard is your friend.....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?114362-Brake-Pads-FERODO-DS2500-amp-DS3000-ACRE-Super-Fighter-*JDMyard*

[Bludger]

JDM Yard is your friend.....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?114362-Brake-Pads-FERODO-DS2500-amp-DS3000-ACRE-Super-Fighter-*JDMyard*JDMyard only quote type R pads.

From memory, my friend said she asked Yonas but he didn't do for her car.

She needed to ring Ferodo and order from Canberra.

VTI-R Teg with slotted rotors.