How to swap your BMC+Booster. EG/DC

[mocchi]

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!


Aim:
Swap brake master cylinder+booster. Usual modification follow up after you upgrade your brakes.

Required Tools:
10mm, 12mm, 14mm sockets & spanners
Patience
Pliers
Brake fluid
Hose for siphoning or suction device.
Metal saw + hard line connectors + hose + teflon tape = bench bleed tool. Thanks vinnY! :thumbsup:
Screw driver +/-

Manual:
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/bmc-manual1.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/bmc-manual2.jpghttp://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/bmc-manual3.jpg
http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/bmc-manual4.jpg

Steps: All the steps are just random really, I'm sure the service manual specify what to do first and which.

Optional - Remove front seat. This really helps clear out your movement space under brake pedal.

1. Crack loose 2x10mm hard line nuts on your BMC. Do this before you remove 4 nuts holding booster to your firewall. Use flare nut spanner if you can. Don't disconnect them, just crack loose the nut.

2. Get under brake pedal and undo those 4 nuts. Straighten out the cotter/slit pin and remove.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010767.jpg


3. Now all the nuts are loose, you can start siphon out the brake fluid from reservoir.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010765.jpg


4. Unplug vacuum hose, remove brake check valve bracket, set aside hose and bracket. Unplug wires on brake reservoir cap.

5. Undo fuel filter bracket nuts, let it dangle so you can wiggle-wiggle it when installing BMC+booster.

6. Undo intake arm and move it aside, again this help clear out some room. BMC+booster is FAT i tell ya.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010770.jpg


7. Disconnect hard lines and then remove BMC+Booster.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010769.jpg


8. Make your bench bleed tool. recipe: Metal saw + hard line connectors + hose + teflon tape = bench bleed tool.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010763.jpg


9. THE HARD PART - Install. Move it, wiggle it, do it and get it there!

10. Reconnect the clevis to push-rod. Use manual for measurements.

11. Start bench bleed. Fill reservoir with brake fluid and pump on the brake pedal.
Don't pump it like it's hot, clean straight push and slowly let go. If you pump it like you wank, there will be plenty of tiny bubbles. yep.

So instead, one clean stroke and wait for few mins so the bubble settles down.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010771.jpg

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010772.jpg


12. Repeat until you don't see anymore bubbles when you pump them pedal.

13. Now massage your brake hard lines so that it points the right way.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010775.jpg

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010776.jpg

14. I like to clean reservoir filter at this point.

http://i516.photobucket.com/albums/u323/breadbaconncheese/P1010777.jpg

15. Get back under brake pedal and tighten down everything.

16. Reinstall everything, once you think you're done, go stand in front of engine bay and spend 10 mins just stand there looking, most likely you will miss something or left a socket or spanner or a nut somewhere.

17. Bleed your brake calipers as usual.

Good luck.

[djt]

Wow, thanks so much mocchi. You legend haha gonna try to do it myself rather than my mechanic!!

[quang]

How do you adjust the push rod without the special tool? And do you need to do the vacuum step?

[hussLEr]

Did you change the prop valve also?