AP2 headlight motor wiring... anyone know?

[ncmx5]

I'm doing a conversion from AP1 headlights to AP2... problem is...

my AP1 headlight adjusters are a rectangular socket... where as the AP2's are triangular... see pics.

I would like convert the plug having wiring from the AP1 male socket wired directly to the AP2 female socket... problem is...

Would anyone know what corresponds to which wires? or is there a diagram available?

AP1
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_J2cP5UE8sL0/TQyrPEtAb-I/AAAAAAAAAn0/LHyq1BgXWKE/s800/CIMG3419.JPG

AP2
http://lh3.ggpht.com/_J2cP5UE8sL0/TQyrS-13NtI/AAAAAAAAAnw/YlD2i2vhO4w/s800/CIMG3427.JPG

[aozora]

I've got the same problem but ended up just leaving it. If only I could find an AP2 manual then I could figure it out...

[ncmx5]

true. yeah. what are they? are they auto-adjusters??

[lzybum]

did u guys use ap1 ballast or ap2 ballast?
if ap1, were there any modifications needed to plugs etc?

[ncmx5]

ap1 ballasts. no mods needed. you just can't plug in the auto adjusters.

[garett]

i have never done it, but id get a test light and some female blade wire joiners crimp them onto your wires and then simply push them over the male blades protuding.

(like how speaker wires are done) if you get a test light you will be able to find power if you connect the test light clip the the chassis and then touch the blade.

there are only 3 blades so 9 options cant be that hard to touch and go?

if you want some help ill come and give you a hand.

[lzybum]

ap1 ballasts. no mods needed. you just can't plug in the auto adjusters.

sorry for being ignorant, but what exactly does the auto adjusters do?
does it affect anything? does it matter if its plugged in or not?

[ncmx5]

well, i haven't plugged mine in... and it hasn't changed anything. I'm only guessing its the auto adjusters based on its location. Theoretically if i'm correct, it should raise/lower the headlights automatically so it doesn't blind people going up/down hill (i.e. compensate for angles). USDM lights don't have them anyways.

[AusS2000]

They are auto adjusters, but only function when you first turn on the vehicle. The headlights adjust for whatever weight you have in the boot. Good if you're a gangster and often have a body in there. Otherwise, rubbish.

[aozora]

i have never done it, but id get a test light and some female blade wire joiners crimp them onto your wires and then simply push them over the male blades protuding.

(like how speaker wires are done) if you get a test light you will be able to find power if you connect the test light clip the the chassis and then touch the blade.

there are only 3 blades so 9 options cant be that hard to touch and go?

if you want some help ill come and give you a hand.

Actually that just gave me an idea... although, I shouldn't blow anything/fuses if I wire it up wrongly right?
Is there a safer method of testing you could suggest than randomly plugging in the old AP1 wires to the pins and testing for voltage? (Walking back to turn ignition on a million times ftl...)

I don't mind being the guinea pig... I'll post up the configuration and what needs to go to what afterwards so other people don't have to test the same :)

[zhong]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but do AP1's have this "plug" as well? Just that the AP2 light's female connector doesn't like AP1 loom's male connector? You won't burn anything imo, motors usually don't need polarity.. But best bet is to use a multimeter and get readings from your headlight loom, then use female spade connectors to wire it up.

To guesstimate, 3 Pins could either be:

- GROUND
- POWER (CONSTANT)
- SIGNAL (TRIGGER)

or if it's NEGATIVE triggered

- GROUND -UP (TRIGGER)
- GROUND -DOWN (TRIGGER)
- POWER (CONSTANT)

And I think the "auto-adjusters" are just a ADR compliant thing with projectors with HID (like the BMWs), they just rotate the aim to a lower angle, then adjusts the aim back to it's normal position again - so that the "burst" of the inital start up of the HID do not "blind" oncoming traffic etc.