Problem with starting - b18c7 in ek4

[davidvtec]

I just put a b18 type r motor into my ek 4 today...
i got a problem with starting it and this is what we came down too..
there is fuel going to the motor
there is a pulse for the injectors but not spark?
it kicks but doesnt start..
i have used the following computer...
ek4
b18c type r import with no immobiliser
apexi power fc

with the aus spec b18c type r with immobiliser there was no power.

what could it be?

[nugget]

there was a similar post a few weeks ago.
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?143327-b18c-wont-start-URGENT-help!

i had a similar problem to my b18c as well. had fuel, injectors were pulsing, i even did a spark test and saw spark from the spark plugs. but
The problem turned out to be the coil in the distributor.

its quite common to have some part of the dizzy fail on the b18c. ICM, or coil are most likely culprits.

im guessing the wiring of the loom is all done correctly and thats not affecting the start up of the engine?

hope that helps.

[Bludger]

were you getting spark?

Maybe the timing is too advance, retard it a little bit?

[davidvtec]

nope no spark!

[Bludger]

Spark starts at the battery, start from there and work your way towards the spark plugs.

where is the weak link, find it and start your engine.

[TODA AU]

1st, check all engine earths & confirm 0~0.2 ohms resistance to Neg terminal of battery,
2nd, confirm the ECU main earth is secure (located on thermostat housing new fan switch)
3rd, remove spark plugs & confirm the plugs are not fouled. If fouled, replace & start engine,
If plugs are clean & new, turn ignition to reds – confirm engine check light for ECU power up
If no power up, check the fuses – under bonnet, rear right of engine bay (rear left 2 fuses)
When ECU powers up, confirm injector pulse with noid light. (If OK, ECU & distributor sensors OK)
Confirm spark with spark test.
If spark is not present on spark test, change distributor to known good distributor. (Ie: Your old one)
To fix dissy if failed, test components to determine failed part. (Usual culprit is the coil, then the ignitor)

Use JDM OBD2a B18CR ECU, Power FC or original EK4 B16A ECU with match imobiliser for existing key.
To use AUDM B18CR ECU, the imobiliser must be removed, see DIY threads. ECUMans DIY works for this ECU type.

[davidvtec]

Problem solved ! The beast is alive poeple ! Ek civic type r :D

[Bludger]

please tell us about it.

[davidvtec]

well we found out the problem to all our dizzys getin blown was because the ECU that came with the motor which is IMPORT ECU (96 spec) was not able to work with the 98 spec motor (the lebos at the smash repair just chucked in any ECU). So we plugged in the original Apexi Power FC ECU which was on my previous motor and got 3 dizzys together and started building our own one. once that was done, we started the motor and the thing started roaring.. all smiles all round.

big thanks to my boss Adrian who tried to help me over the phone :D

heres a couple of pics of my build so far

http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af2/David_Vtec/IMG_2616.jpg
http://i988.photobucket.com/albums/af2/David_Vtec/IMG_2619.jpg

maybe i should make a build thread.. :)

[bennjamin]

Huh ? Both obd2 I assume ?! Apart from the ecu being fried what reason wouldn't it work ?

[davidvtec]

yeah both are obd2, but the ECU wasnt fried, it was the import ECU (96 spec) that fried the dizzys that was connected to my 98 spec motor. that import ECU was the problem at the start as it is not compatible with the 98 spec motors. Changed the ECU to Power FC, and with our own built dizzy from 3 dizzys, we managed to get it starting first go :)

[bennjamin]

sorry i have no idea why the import ecu was frying dizzies. dizzies local models and japanese are the same thing.