Oil choice dilemma ....

[TheSaint]

alot of you have been following my build thread on here

i am coming up on 315 000 kms and i want to change the oil on that mark

last service was just before 310 000 kms and i changed from Honda FEO 10w30 to Honda FEO ULTRA 5w30 Synthetic - using a J's Racing Sump Plug

ever since i changed to FEO Ultra the car has been using a little bit of oil each week - every time i check it it needs a small drink - but when i was running normal FEO it never moved

i think the car feels just a touch rougher with the FEO Ultra in it as well - but that could be just my mind playing tricks on me

so should i go back to normal FEO? or stick with FEO Ultra?

also would i benefit from using some supermarket oil during the change to give the system a flush?

[honda_zivic]

go bak to old 1 mate. reason coz i had use thinner oil in in my daily car and LMAO car didnt start after oil change.

[markismaximus]

car didnt start after oil change.

are you serious? you changed your oil and your car wouldn't start? that seems very very odd

[honda_zivic]

yea man im not talking shit. used 15/60 or sumshit cant remember, then when try start the car and it wont even crank.L0L
then kept trying eventually it started, but then it blew blue smoke like a bomb in my garage, so i turnt it off. then try start again and it never started.
then drain oil out and top up old oil and still didnt start even i took out the sparks plugs.but till nxt day i think the oil went down from top cylinder and it started.but it blew blue smoke full on for like a week then slowly disappeared.

fkn weird shit ever. ask like how many mechanics an they were just clueless. hahaha
so if u know whats the cause tell me man i been wanting to know.LOL

[honda_zivic]

oh and my mates s13, he did a oil change and that shit NEVER STARTED. so he sold d car. LOL

[TheSaint]

yea man im not talking shit. used 15/60 or sumshit cant remember

WAAAAY to thick oil - engine probably couldn't manage it

iv been running FEO Ultra for a few months now and the only real problem is that the engine eats up a bit of it every week

FEO is a mineral oil and FEO Ultra is a semi-synthetic

im just wondering if the benefits of FEO Ultra are worth it or not

[mugen_ctr]

There is a certain oil made for engines with that sorta kms if i recall, though odds are its a mineral based oil, as said, stick to the one oil an let it live its life lol

[trism]

Im not at all surprised that going to a thinner oil resulted in oil usage in an engine of that age.

Not only this, but the Semi Synth contains more, and stronger "detergents" than the pure mineral oil, which means that it dislodges more of the crud that is built up around the engine.

So what could have happened, especially in an engine with 315000kms, is that you put the Ultra in, it did a good job of cleaning the engine out, probably cleaned out the build up around the rings, other seals etc And then combined with the thinner oil, its slipping past the oil rings, and burning a small amount.

If i were in your position, id just go back to running the normal mineral based 10w30

[TheSaint]

Im not at all surprised that going to a thinner oil resulted in oil usage in an engine of that age.

Not only this, but the Semi Synth contains more, and stronger "detergents" than the pure mineral oil, which means that it dislodges more of the crud that is built up around the engine.

So what could have happened, especially in an engine with 315000kms, is that you put the Ultra in, it did a good job of cleaning the engine out, probably cleaned out the build up around the rings, other seals etc And then combined with the thinner oil, its slipping past the oil rings, and burning a small amount.

If i were in your position, id just go back to running the normal mineral based 10w30

cheers for the advice

should i bother cleaning the engine out with a supermarket oil - or just do a normal change?

[trism]

nah because its not like the oil was contaminated.

So a normal change would be fine.

[Limbo]

a 5w30 shouldn't have effect the car at all, its just oo thin that its seeping pas the rings due to worn/old rings.
It it was thicker than i would say maybe, but even then i managed to change my car with a 15w60 in an old celica and it still worked though it was really running bad.

Just change back to the FEO normal, not need to flush, its not enough to cause any problems.
You should be happy that the normal FEO doesn't burn with the amount of kms you got on the car.

P.S where u getting Ultra FEO from? i haven't seen any around here in sydney yet.

[bennjamin]

you can get FEO ultra at most if not all honda dealers - I get it thru trivett @ rydelmere.

PS switch back to FEO. Or go to supercheap auto and get "calibre 10w30 " oil - same thing but cheaper and 5.5l too

[TheSaint]

i have always gotten all my gear from Bunbury Honda and KIA (south west australia) i know the parts manager there =)

ill just do a normal change back to FEO 10w30 than - thanks for the help everyone

at least the ultra gave it a good clean out =)

what kind of hondas would benefit from going to Ultra?

[trism]

things like b series with less than 150k kms on them....

k series etc

[Alvis]

Interesting thread... I spoke to Honda about this new synthetic oil and they recommended I change over to it saying it would be better for the engine than current Magnatec I'm using (D16Y4, 58,000kms) - now I'm not so sure after reading this....

[markismaximus]

Interesting thread... I spoke to Honda about this new synthetic oil and they recommended I change over to it saying it would be better for the engine than current Magnatec I'm using (D16Y4, 58,000kms) - now I'm not so sure after reading this....

TheSaints motor has more than 5 times the mileage yours has, you can't really compare the oil he would need to what you would

[Alvis]

it is more the kms an engine has travelled or how old the engine is? Mine's a 98 engine and I just don't know if I should be changing to a fully synthetic oil which has been designed for newer engines rather than one that is 12+ years old...

[dougie_504]

I use Nulon 10W-40. Does the trick for me

[Alvis]

I use Nulon 10W-40. Does the trick for me

pretty sure Magnatec is 10w-40... might go to FEO 10W-30 on next change

How often do you guys change your oil filters? And what brand do you use?

[markismaximus]

change the filter when you change the oil, use oem filters

[dc2r-0636]

pretty sure Magnatec is 10w-40... might go to FEO 10W-30 on next change

How often do you guys change your oil filters? And what brand do you use?

you can change your oil filter every 10,000kms. and change your oil every 5,000kms. but theyre only lyk $15 so why not lol

[Alvis]

you can change your oil filter every 10,000kms. and change your oil every 5,000kms. but theyre only lyk $15 so why not lol

Yep, I used to do my filter every 2nd oil change or 10,000kms, but now started doing filter every 5,000 with oil.

Using Purolator Pure One's atm left over from my Dad's car, so once I use these up just going to get OEM filters from Honda with FEO oil :)

[mugen_ctr]

use oem oil filter? As if lol... i gave that up few months ago, couldnt be bothered goin 2 honda every 3-4 months, an i think the guy doesnt like me, his always got a angry look on him :S

But anyways, ryco, an vavoline seem to be doing there job... there hasnt been any issue, an plus its not as expensive as hamp is, 12 bucks compared to 18 bucks

[markismaximus]

buy oem filters 3 or 4 at a time

[Alvis]

buy oem filters 3 or 4 at a time

chi-ching! And ask for trade price :D

[TheSaint]

i always buy 2 bottles of oil and 4 filters in one hit

the guy at honda always gives me trade price because i have gotten to know him over the years

i would suggest trying Ultra once and see how it goes - if it does the same thing mine is - just change back to FEO after 5000 kms

the amount of oil mine is using is TINY - i only have to give it a small drink once every week or 2
BUT it would never use up normal FEO - but i knew this could happen when i tried Ultra so i guess its not really such a big deal

[dougie_504]

pretty sure Magnatec is 10w-40... might go to FEO 10W-30 on next change

How often do you guys change your oil filters? And what brand do you use?

Lots of oils are. I used to use Magnatec (still have enough for one more service in my DD) but I now prefer to use Nulon because I think it protects the engine better and I'm 100% sure the engine will make a bit more power with it.



use oem oil filter? As if lol... i gave that up few months ago, couldnt be bothered goin 2 honda every 3-4 months, an i think the guy doesnt like me, his always got a angry look on him :S

But anyways, ryco, an vavoline seem to be doing there job... there hasnt been any issue, an plus its not as expensive as hamp is, 12 bucks compared to 18 bucks


I think AEM did a test on OEM and non-OEM oil filters and found that the OEM filter performs the best. Vague claim from me I know but I'll see if I can find anymore information on it.

[TheSaint]

its pretty common knowledge that OEM filters and FEO oil perform the best in most situations

[Bludger]

they perform well, not best.

[Alvis]

I heard (a while ago, which is why I got them) that Purolator Pure One were one of the best filtering oil filters (made in USA I'm pretty sure) - the only downside is the capacity of the filter meaning it has to be changed regularly.

And hard to find an oil filter tool to tighten them up with, basically have to do it by hand and keep a check on it every now and again (as I experienced last week!)

[markismaximus]

you're only meant to hand tighten oil filters. 3/4 turn approx once gasket contacts the block

[Alvis]

you're only meant to hand tighten oil filters. 3/4 turn approx once gasket contacts the block

Are you sure? Then why does Honda make an oil filter tool to tighten them then - I know cause I bought one from Honda...

[dougie_504]

The part I struggle with is that lots of aftermarket parts are considered better for an engine. For example, an aftermarket header is often lighter, produces more power and therefore performs better than the OEM one. That's just an example, not my rationale, but hopefully you get the drift. I think I'm just tired of endless people saying 'Just use Honda MTF it's made for it' etc when I question whether or not they've ever tried and felt the difference.

So why can't another brand of oil be better? Good quality aftermarket parts and consumables are supposed to equal or perform better than OEM due to their R&D and refinement after observing the OEM example, right? I have also seen several experienced and respected engine builders prefer other products than the OEM options.

I think Nulon for power, Royal Purple for protection.

[dougie_504]

Are you sure? Then why does Honda make an oil filter tool to tighten them then - I know cause I bought one from Honda...


Doesn't it say on the filter that you should only turn it an extra 3/4 of a turn?

I think that tool is to remove it once it tightens because of the gasket enlarging in heat cycles.

[markismaximus]

Are you sure? Then why does Honda make an oil filter tool to tighten them then - I know cause I bought one from Honda...

yes i am sure. that tool is for removing filters only

[dougie_504]

Are you sure? Then why does Honda make an oil filter tool to tighten them then - I know cause I bought one from Honda...


Wait a minute, did you tighten up your oil filter? Good luck getting it off lol

[gumus89]

Gonna be a hard time getting that ****er off. I put mine on hand tight and getting it off needs a tool.

Reading the crap about cars not starting when using thicker oil, I gotta say, you guys dont know what those numbers means if you say its waaaaay too thick.
The only relevant number at start up is the 15W. Compare that to the 10W of FEO and its not a very large difference. This number is the oils thickness at something like -18 celsius. So is more indicative of the oils thickness at start up.
Ill admit that the operating temperature thickness of 60 is a bit excessive and if you had vtec, it might make it difficult to make the switch from low to hi cam.

Essentially, for best protection against wear, you would use the thinnest oil you can at start-up and the right thickness to maintain the right oil pressure at operating temperature. Yeah, you might leak some thin oil when your engine is cold, but the can circulates the thin oil a lot easier, meaning you get coverage sooner than for a thicker oil.

[Alvis]

Wait a minute, did you tighten up your oil filter? Good luck getting it off lol

Got my last one OEM filter off easily - I make it tight but not wring the sh*t out of it - just have to make sure you oil the gasket before you put it on so it doesn't bake itself on; if you didn't oil your gasket then I agree you would struggle getting it off...

[dc2r-0636]

what i do to get a oil filter off is get a screwdriver and a hammer, toward the end of the filter punch a hole through with the screwdriver. then just twist it off with the screwdriver

[Alvis]

what i do to get a oil filter off is get a screwdriver and a hammer, toward the end of the filter punch a hole through with the screwdriver. then just twist it off with the screwdriver

love it, but think you might need the removal tool LOL

[dc2r-0636]

love it, but think you might need the removal tool LOL

lmao, give it a try next time !

[Alvis]

lmao, give it a try next time !

lol - if I did i'd get oil and sh*t everywhere haha

[dc2r-0636]

lol - if I did i'd get oil and sh*t everywhere haha

lol yeah that does happen but its worth it when u got no other way of getting it out, ive got 3 oil filter wrenches at home, and not one is small enough for the honda filter lol

[Alvis]

lol yeah that does happen but its worth it when u got no other way of getting it out, ive got 3 oil filter wrenches at home, and not one is small enough for the honda filter lol

Your friend :)

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5482/picture1uv.jpg
By civica (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/civica) at 2011-01-05

And this one isn't too bad - my Dad has this one and is good for other aftermarket filters - but only to get filters off - can't tighten up with this one. Trust me. I tried. Only to be told half hour later after trying that it's a removal tool only lol

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/1504/picture2br.jpg
By civica (http://profile.imageshack.us/user/civica) at 2011-01-05

[TheSaint]

The part I struggle with is that lots of aftermarket parts are considered better for an engine. For example, an aftermarket header is often lighter, produces more power and therefore performs better than the OEM one. That's just an example, not my rationale, but hopefully you get the drift. I think I'm just tired of endless people saying 'Just use Honda MTF it's made for it' etc when I question whether or not they've ever tried and felt the difference.

So why can't another brand of oil be better? Good quality aftermarket parts and consumables are supposed to equal or perform better than OEM due to their R&D and refinement after observing the OEM example, right? I have also seen several experienced and respected engine builders prefer other products than the OEM options.

I think Nulon for power, Royal Purple for protection.

i think if i was to do a serious build i would do some research on getting better quality oils - but for all the motors i have worked on that have mainly been I/H/E i have been happy with OEM Honda

alot of the guys with worked K20 at track days say that FEO is not good enough for constant high revs and they use quality full synthetics - but 5ltrs of that stuff is like $150

i would maybe pay that for quality gearbox oil but not a D-series engine oil that gets changed every 5-10k kms

[Bludger]

you're only meant to hand tighten oil filters. 3/4 turn approx once gasket contacts the block
+1

Are you sure? Then why does Honda make an oil filter tool to tighten them then - I know cause I bought one from Honda...
Tool is for removal

The part I struggle with is that lots of aftermarket parts are considered better for an engine. For example, an aftermarket header is often lighter, produces more power and therefore performs better than the OEM one. That's just an example, not my rationale, but hopefully you get the drift. I think I'm just tired of endless people saying 'Just use Honda MTF it's made for it' etc when I question whether or not they've ever tried and felt the difference.

So why can't another brand of oil be better? Good quality aftermarket parts and consumables are supposed to equal or perform better than OEM due to their R&D and refinement after observing the OEM example, right? I have also seen several experienced and respected engine builders prefer other products than the OEM options.

I think Nulon for power, Royal Purple for protection.
How can an oil give you power?

Reading the crap about cars not starting when using thicker oil, I gotta say, you guys dont know what those numbers means if you say its waaaaay too thick.
The only relevant number at start up is the 15W. Compare that to the 10W of FEO and its not a very large difference. This number is the oils thickness at something like -18 celsius. So is more indicative of the oils thickness at start up.
Ill admit that the operating temperature thickness of 60 is a bit excessive and if you had vtec, it might make it difficult to make the switch from low to hi cam.

Essentially, for best protection against wear, you would use the thinnest oil you can at start-up and the right thickness to maintain the right oil pressure at operating temperature. Yeah, you might leak some thin oil when your engine is cold, but the can circulates the thin oil a lot easier, meaning you get coverage sooner than for a thicker oil.
With our Honda's, when the car hasn't been started for a few days, you can hear when the oil gets to the head to lubricate the head.
At 1st start up, you'll hear very loud tappet noise for maybe 1 or 2 seconds. After that, it turns quiet like normal again indicating the oil has reached the head to lubricate it.

On my fathers old Toyota Corona, he uses very poor quality "Gulf Western" oil rated at 20w-50.
At start up, you hear loud valve train noise and it doesn't become quiet till after around 10 seconds.
Thats a fairly long time to wait to get oil up to the valve train/head. I'm assuming that it is because of the poor quality & high viscosity rating of 20w.

Mind you, it only takes that long when the motor hasn't been started for a few days.

just have to make sure you oil the gasket before you put it on so it doesn't bake itself on;
The purpose of applying a thin film of oil onto the gasket before installation is for making the installation of the oil filter easier.
(Dry rubber rubbing up against the oil filter housing doesn't do the rubber gasket any good.)

The thin film of oil is not for the prevention of baking the gasket.

what i do to get a oil filter off is get a screwdriver and a hammer, toward the end of the filter punch a hole through with the screwdriver. then just twist it off with the screwdriver
Dude, thats like worse case senario, when you've tried eveything and all else fails.

Doing that everytime you change a filter..............come on man........ don't be so n00b

but only to get filters off -
Dude, oil filters are only meant to be tightened by hand.

[Alvis]

Dude, oil filters are only meant to be tightened by hand.

well if you do that, you better make sure you tighten it after the first run because I can guarantee you it will loosen up - happened to me last week. Search the net for stories on people who have blown engines because their oil filters have come off.

Surely a couple of turns with an oil cap tool isn't going to hurt anyone and gives you peace of mind

[bennjamin]

well if you do that, you better make sure you tighten it after the first run because I can guarantee you it will loosen up - happened to me last week. Search the net for stories on people who have blown engines because their oil filters have come off.

Surely a couple of turns with an oil cap tool isn't going to hurt anyone and gives you peace of mind


you vs the entire world of car mechanics ? Oil remover tools generally will NOT tighten. They are geared/slack to loosen only.

A oil filter is to be tightened by hand only. It is around 25nm torque spec - this is measurable by only a small torque wrench.

First - lube the O ring with fresh oil. Next place the oil filter on , tighten by hand finger tight. Next grab a rag and rub down the oil filter cleaning any grease or oil off it. Finally give the oil filter a good grab and twist clockwise a decent amount to tighten. This should be around the 20-25nm mark.
Fill oil start engine check for leaks.

[Alvis]

I'm not saying it's me vs the car mechanics of the world, I know exactly where you're coming from - my post said I tightened mine by hand the other week.

All I'm saying - and something not mentioned in the posts - is that after you take it for it's first run check the oil filter again as they can, as mine did, loosen up. A quick nip up with the cap tool may just put your mind at rest a little more that's all

[bennjamin]

for sure piece of mind. Problem here tho is the internet and how its interpreted......

"hand tight" to you sounds like alittle bit tight / finger tight.
To me and most its as I mentioned earlier - as much as possible by hand !

but yes better safe than sorry. BE CAREFUL tightening a oil filter after a drive - it will be HOT and also you can easily thread it / over tighten as the metal has softened with heat. I advise to wait till the car is cool again , clean the oil filter and retighten / nip up slightly if need be

[markismaximus]

It is around 25nm torque spec - this is measurable by only a small torque wrench.


I swear I recently saw 10nm on a honda oil filter. I can confirm when I'm in the garage next

[Alvis]

for sure piece of mind. Problem here tho is the internet and how its interpreted......

"hand tight" to you sounds like alittle bit tight / finger tight.
To me and most its as I mentioned earlier - as much as possible by hand !

but yes better safe than sorry. BE CAREFUL tightening a oil filter after a drive - it will be HOT and also you can easily thread it / over tighten as the metal has softened with heat. I advise to wait till the car is cool again , clean the oil filter and retighten / nip up slightly if need be

Haha yep, I totally agree with you, a good hand wring lol :) And true, very good point to do it when it's cold - I checked mine the next morning and I could almost take mine off with only my fingers - but checked it again this morning - this thread got me thinking again - and it was still nice and tight :D

Valid advice mate :)

[bennjamin]

I swear I recently saw 10nm on a honda oil filter. I can confirm when I'm in the garage next

I actually think HONDA recommends 12NM. But i just pulled off a number off google image search for a generic oil filter ! Can you image capture something from a workshop manual ?


EDIT here you go - 10-14NM

17426

[markismaximus]

cool, so I'm not going insane. I just checked 2 FSMs (EG-EJ) and they both say 22nm.

[Bludger]

By hand with all your might is way too tight.

I generally tighten by hand and can undo it by hand when the time comes to change it.

takes a bit of effort but it comes off by hand.

Never had problems with leaks.

[Bludger]

well if you do that, you better make sure you tighten it after the first run because I can guarantee you it will loosen up - happened to me last week. Search the net for stories on people who have blown engines because their oil filters have come off.

Surely a couple of turns with an oil cap tool isn't going to hurt anyone and gives you peace of mind

Mate, I've never had to make sure after the first run.
You can not guarantee it will loosen up.
Happening to you doesn't mean it's gonna happen to others, especially when those others do it right, first time every time.
Sure there are many people with blown engines because the oil filter has come off. Those individuals are n00bs.
a couple of turns with the "Removal" tool to tighten it is totally unnecessary, It won't give me peace of mind, it will give me a headache from thinking about how hard its going to be when time comes to take it off.

[mugen_ctr]

everyone has different ways of tightening, me for one, i use the oil filter tool to tighten, tight enough so i can atleast take it off later on with ease...using the same tool lol

Btw, stuff what honda says about buying the tool to take it out, waste of $$$, when the generic tools do same job

iev heard of only one such story when the filter has blown off, this was on a 180sx... as all 3 generation of the nissan SR20 are different thus need a different filter, he used the 200sx oil filter instead of the 180sx filter, an blew off, oil went all over the road, pays to know what exact engine ur car has

An also oil tech has come along way, so odds are feo oils aint all that, which is why i always stick to other oils, vavoline, motul, mobile etc

[bambi]

at honda weve been using 15w40 at the dealership for EK's so you might want to consider going to a non genuine semi-synthetic, itll be less likely to burn oil and itll protect your engine more, especially considering the high k's youve clocked on it

[gumus89]

Higher weight oils dont protect older engines more. They reduce the amount you leak and burn, but it doesnt do its job any better. Worse if anything.
All you want is fluid as possible at start up and the correct weight at operating temp to have your oil pressure where it should be.

[trism]

wow, this thread really filled up with idiots talking shit.

ive never EVER used a filter tool to tighten. Thats so ****ing retarded, i want to face palm myself so hard, i rip my brain out.

Even on oil filters it says tighten until the seal/gasket contacts the block, then another 3/4 turn.

Ive always done this, ive never had problems with oil leaks, and ive always been able to take the filter off by hand when it comes time to change it.

The gasket is there to stop the oil leaking out when cold, and when its hot, the metal expands enough to seal it even further.

The first time i changed the oil on my old car, i knew the retard had over tightened the filter with a tool.

I couldnt get it off with a removal tool. tried the old screwdriver thru the filter trick, all i managed to do was rip the filter apart.

due to the filter being under the headers, and realy awkward to get to, i had to take apart the entire front of the car, and take the radiator out so i could get to it, and i literally had to pull the filter apart, and then use a set of vice grips to undo the thread.

Thats how overtightening a filter can **** your day right up.

With regards to oil, the more you spend, the better it is.

You can get a good quality semi syn for about 30-40 for 5l, and then from about 50 bucks up for a fully syn.

Id recomend trying Penrite. Its an aussie oil company, and theyve got ties to all sorts of racing in aus.

They dont just make engine oil, theyve got a full range of synthetic gearbox/diff oils and synthetic brake fluid.

[dougie_504]

^ +1 rep haha

[gumus89]

You give out reps for common sense?
I guess its not so common on forums.

[Bludger]

Thats so ****ing retarded, i want to face palm myself so hard, i rip my brain out.

can i copy this quote

LOL

so funny:p

[dougie_504]

You give out reps for common sense?
I guess its not so common on forums.


Not so common on this one. Bao knows why I appreciate it...

[TheSaint]

how did we go from a discussion about FEO vs FEO Ultra in a high km D15b7 ... to ... i dont even know where we are at now??

talk about thread jack

im just going to go back to normal FEO 10w30 with Hamp filter and J's Racing Plug ... my setup for the last 100k ... never had a problem with it

[Bludger]

Not so common on this one. Bao knows why I appreciate it...
what?

[gumus89]

im just going to go back to normal FEO 10w30 with Hamp filter and J's Racing Plug

What wear parts in an engine are Iron, Nickel, Cobalt? Because those are the only metals that are attracted to magnets. All other wear metals wont notice your magnetic plug.

[TheSaint]

What wear parts in an engine are Iron, Nickel, Cobalt? Because those are the only metals that are attracted to magnets. All other wear metals wont notice your magnetic plug.

oh well - at least some of it will get picked up than

[gumus89]

Lol, I dont know if there are any at all is my point. I want someone who knows to tell me.

[TheSaint]

iv seen heeps of metal shavings picked up by a magnetic sump bolt on other cars

and the same for when the oil is strained through a paper towel

u can google it

[gumus89]

Other cars as in other makes? or other Hondas?
Im not saying what you have is rubbish, im just curious to have real factual info as to what wear parts of our engines are made of magnetic metals.
Stopping any shavings from circulation is a great idea, except that there must be a significant problem already if you have significant shavings.

[trism]

can i copy this quote

LOL

so funny:p

have a pic to accompany it :p

http://images.wikia.com/finalfantasy/images/6/60/Facepalm.png

[EK1.6LCIV]

cant fault the feo, dealerships uses it in their personal cars and have been for years, everything from 50s mercedes to new hsvs.... it lubricates well

[TheSaint]

i swapped out to regular FEO today using hamp filter and j's racing sump bolt
also changed my coolant and replaced the busted heater hose

i just run the sump bolt because the car has over 300k kms on it and im curious as to see if theres any scum in the oil

the bolt itself did have a few very small metallic particles on it but most of it was in the form of a fine sludge that seemed to be attraced to the magnetic bolt
i think the magnetic bolt would have more effect on gearbox applications - i bought them in a set and installed one on both the sump and the gearbox plugs in the last service

i will run the Feo Ultra i took out of the car today through some paper towels 2moro for further analysis

[Alvis]

Hey Saint, any further updates on how the oil went?

I was just speaking to Honda about feeding the Ultra to my EK and this was there response:

Hi Scott,

Hope you're well today mate,

I'm just after some details on the Honda OEM oil for my EK 98 Civic. The car has
60,000kms on it.

Would you be able to please tell me what oil you would recommend - I don't know if
it's worth going to the new Ultra FEO fully synthetic oil as the 98 Civic wasn't
originally designed to run on it and I'm worried about potential side effects on the
seals? What are your thoughts?

Also, could you please quote me 'mates rate' price on the Ultra and the normal FEO
oil (I may pick up a couple of bottles)?

Thanks again,
Cheers,
Alvis


Hi Alvis,

Mate you are quite right. Honda only recommend the FEO ultra for Hondas built 2002 onwards.
The seals wouldn't so much be the problem but more of a higher possibility of glazing
the bores with a full synthetic.

Honda do the standard FEO in 4 litre bottles only. I can do a 4l bottle for you at $39.60
inc GST.

Regards,

Scott Martin
Group Parts Manager

[trism]

:like:

good stuff. Straight from the horses mouth.

[TheSaint]

yeah i changed back to normal FEO - car just didnt run right on ultra and it was burning the oil really quickly

i get FEO in 5ltr bottles for the same prices ... lol

[Alvis]

5 ltrs! Damn, and I thought I was on a good thing LOL ;)

How often does the sump nut have to be changed?

[Bludger]

Never unless you have destroyed it.

washer everytime

[Alvis]

Never unless you have destroyed it.

washer everytime

perfect :)

cheers Bludger

[TheSaint]

i bought J's racing plugs for the sump and the transmission - ill never replace them again - but do the washer everytime

[Alvis]

Thanks Saint - good advice :)