start up problem

[chichichibo]

Hi all,
May i ask if you notice the time needed to start the engine after turning the key to III ?

I recently found that, after i insert the key, and switch to on (III), to start the car, there is a delay in starting the car. It takes, i guess, more than 1 sec to start up the car, where in the past, i used to start the car immediately.
Does anyone know if there is anything wrong with my FD2??
is it a starter problem?
btw, it only happens when i first start my car everyday (despite of morning or afternoon, it happens when i FIRST turn the car on everyday.)
thanks a lot :)

[ekay1]

Yeah i have this same problem as well, from not too long ago. I dont know why it is, but it lags, as in the ignition process seems to be delayed for some reason. I would also like some help, thanks!

[chichichibo]

why this post is deleted?
May i ask if anyone can help with our ignition process please??

[ekay1]

You double posted if you didnt realise.......

[vlixcool]

it can be anything man, from dirty spark plug, spark plug leads, battery, and alternator. the best is to go to Honda if you car still have warranty. Otherwise get electrician to check the battery voltage using volt meter to see if there is any parasitic drain. if not then you also need to check how much the current draw from your battery when the ignition is off.

[ekay1]

Might just go to the dealer and check it out to be safe. Btw Vlix, are you in the city often? I think ive seen you around

[vlixcool]

yeah mate, i'm working in city so i always go to city almost everyday :)

[ekay1]

oh no wonder lol. You got smoked tailights yeah?

[vlixcool]

yep, where did you see me?

[aero]

i found that if i run the car on 98 fuel, ignition takes longer. if i switch to 91 or 95, there is no delay =\

[ekay1]

yep, where did you see me?

Um... You were driving up towards oxford st side from george st from where i saw it.

[chichichibo]

it can be anything man, from dirty spark plug, spark plug leads, battery, and alternator. the best is to go to Honda if you car still have warranty. Otherwise get electrician to check the battery voltage using volt meter to see if there is any parasitic drain. if not then you also need to check how much the current draw from your battery when the ignition is off.

Hi, but...i will only have the delay when i FIRST start the car everyday. After driving the car, there is no delay to start the car again anymore during that day.
Moreover, i found that my remote control is having problem recently too.....few weeks ago, the control is very sensitive, but recently, most of the time, i need to keep pressing the lock/unlock button in order to lock/unlock the car.....it feels like the car cant detect the singal, or the remote control cant delivery the signal......may i ask if anyone knows what's the problem?
thanks a lot.

[DuffyFD]

turn the key to II and not all the way. Then wait a second, then turn the engine on. Could be your fuel pump etc.

There's alot of things the car does checks on when you turn the key to accessories.

[asshat]

To see if it's the battery, turn your lights on high beam then turn the engine on and watch the lights, if there's flickering with the lights then it's a battery issue and there's not enough 12v going through to for the engine to start. If that's not the case then it could be your spark plugs, you will also notice that fuel economy is noticeably worse. Other things could be your starter motor or alternator.

[vlixcool]

Hi, but...i will only have the delay when i FIRST start the car everyday. After driving the car, there is no delay to start the car again anymore during that day.
Moreover, i found that my remote control is having problem recently too.....few weeks ago, the control is very sensitive, but recently, most of the time, i need to keep pressing the lock/unlock button in order to lock/unlock the car.....it feels like the car cant detect the singal, or the remote control cant delivery the signal......may i ask if anyone knows what's the problem?
thanks a lot.

Of course , because after you drive a car then the battery is fully charge by alternator. Get voltmeter then measure the voltage of the battery while the engine running then measure the voltage of the battery the "next day" in the morning while the engine is off, if the alternator and battery charging properly you should be able to see 14Volt on the battery (engine is on) and around 12Volt the next day in the morning ( engine is off). if its less than 12Volt, then there are couple possibilities such as broken diode on alternator, broken battery, corroded fuse. If you don't have background in electronics i suggest just bring the car to the dealer or to electrician to get it check.

[chichichibo]

To see if it's the battery, turn your lights on high beam then turn the engine on and watch the lights, if there's flickering with the lights then it's a battery issue and there's not enough 12v going through to for the engine to start. If that's not the case then it could be your spark plugs, you will also notice that fuel economy is noticeably worse. Other things could be your starter motor or alternator.

Thanks for the advise~
well, i guess my car's fuel consumption is a bit worse.....last 3 tanks run about 350km only, with each tank filled 40L of 98 fuel from BP....though 70% were city driving.....the rest are on the freeway/highway.......
and thanks, i will check the 'high beam' method~
thanks a lot :)

[chichichibo]

Of course , because after you drive a car then the battery is fully charge by alternator. Get voltmeter then measure the voltage of the battery while the engine running then measure the voltage of the battery the "next day" in the morning while the engine is off, if the alternator and battery charging properly you should be able to see 14Volt on the battery (engine is on) and around 12Volt the next day in the morning ( engine is off). if its less than 12Volt, then there are couple possibilities such as broken diode on alternator, broken battery, corroded fuse. If you don't have background in electronics i suggest just bring the car to the dealer or to electrician to get it check.

thanks!!!
then, may i ask, if the remote control problem is due to the battery as well?
it used to be sensitive, the door lock/unlock immediately after i press the button.....but now, i have to try pressing a few times in order to get the door lock/unlock..... = ='

[curtis265]

how far away are you standing?

I think your delay start up is due to the battery discharging slightly overnight. Highbeam thing should get you results.

My remote only works from about 5-10m away, used to be about 20 when it was new.

[chichichibo]

how far away are you standing?

I think your delay start up is due to the battery discharging slightly overnight. Highbeam thing should get you results.

My remote only works from about 5-10m away, used to be about 20 when it was new.

Yea, i tried the headlight method today, but...haha, i was turning the beam to low beam instead of high one.....will try high beam tomorrow.
but, the result is: with the low beam ON, when i turned on the engine, the low beam OFF for a while, and flicker......so, does that mean a battery problem? do i have to do a further high beam test tomorrow?

and for my remote.....the problem is....no matter how far/close i stand from the car, i still have the same problem.....feels like the remote or, the car cant detect the signal......= ='
sometimes, i am just standing right next to the car and press the button....no response....and i need to press a few times in order to lock/unlock the car.......that's really annoying....
i am wondering if that is related to the ignition problem as well......?

[DuffyFD]

your problem isn't with your car battery. Your problem is with the battery in your key fob. replace that key.

If the battery in the key is dying then that will disrupt the signal that the immobilizer sends the decoder ring to start your car.

Spend $3 - $5 and get a new battery for your key, then see if you're still having a problem. Best way to approach things, is try the cheapest solutions first


Also - when you mean "delay" do you mean the starter motor is turning and it's just a delay in the car actually firing, or do you mean a delay in response of the starter motor in your car from when you turn the key.

if you dont understand what i mean,

is it.

a. turn key, engine turning over | ------ delay ----| car is running

or

b. turn key, | ------ delay ----| engine turning over, car is running

[chichichibo]

your problem isn't with your car battery. Your problem is with the battery in your key fob. replace that key.

If the battery in the key is dying then that will disrupt the signal that the immobilizer sends the decoder ring to start your car.

Spend $3 - $5 and get a new battery for your key, then see if you're still having a problem. Best way to approach things, is try the cheapest solutions first


Also - when you mean "delay" do you mean the starter motor is turning and it's just a delay in the car actually firing, or do you mean a delay in response of the starter motor in your car from when you turn the key.

if you dont understand what i mean,

is it.

a. turn key, engine turning over | ------ delay ----| car is running

or

b. turn key, | ------ delay ----| engine turning over, car is running

Hi,
hmm, i believe my situaiton is: a,
which is, after turning the key, i hear the sound of the firing, but the firing takes a bit long than it used to be......
so, i would say, the firing time takes longer than normal or longer than it used to be....

[curtis265]

then thats more than likely a battery getting weak

[DuffyFD]

then thats more than likely a battery getting weak

bingo :)

[chichichibo]

then thats more than likely a battery getting weak

So, it's the problem of the battery?
do i have to replace the battery now? or can wait until next service?
i mean, is it a problem that will damage any part of the car if the battery is weak?
i plan not to replace the battery yet if there is no effect to the car EXCEPT for a start up delay once per day.....

and for the low performance of my remote control, is it due to the car's battery problem as well? or they are 2 different problems?

thanks a lot :)

[curtis265]

I think the remote would be separate.. i mean the car batt sholdn't have much effect on the ability of the antenna to recieve. Probably the battery in the remote.

A car battery will not damage anything, Wait for winter to replace - chances are that you'll haev more issues there

[chichichibo]

I think the remote would be separate.. i mean the car batt sholdn't have much effect on the ability of the antenna to recieve. Probably the battery in the remote.
A car battery will not damage anything, Wait for winter to replace - chances are that you'll haev more issues there

thanks Curtis265,
and i have just posted a reply there on the fuel consumption thread regarding my car's fuel consumption.
as i know u are driving FD2 as well, could you give me some ideas what's happening over my car?
my last 3 tanks, each drives like only 350km with 40L (combined trip, no air con), with BP 98 fuel......
average like: 8.75km/L, or 11.5L/100km.......sounds ridiculous....right?
and my current tank, filled with 95 this time, driving 1/4 tank now, only had 58km.....which mean, at the end will be around 240km over 40L......(i used to fill the tank when the fuel light is ON, and everytime after the light is ON, i need to fill about 40L back....)

Do u know what's the problem of my car?
should i go to Honda for this matter? do u know if they charge against me? or should be their responsibility to ensure their data is correct? (Honda claims Civic Sport drives like 8.7L/100km.......==')

I am so frustrated now.......what kind of fuel consumption is this......................

[asshat]

Hmm..I still suspect it could be a spark plug problem given that your consumption is worse. It might be burning the fuel inefficiently. However, you should check the air box and see if the filter is clogged up.

[chichichibo]

Hmm..I still suspect it could be a spark plug problem given that your consumption is worse. It might be burning the fuel inefficiently. However, you should check the air box and see if the filter is clogged up.

hmm, thanks, but....i just wonder.....my car should have done its 60000km service according to the log book....(i purchased it at 63000km, with the log book stamped at 60000km service....)
so, will that still be the spark plug problem?

and i will check the air box tomorrow....do you mean the air box in front of the car under the grill?
or the black plastic box inside the bonnet?
thanks :)

[chichichibo]

Hmm..I still suspect it could be a spark plug problem given that your consumption is worse. It might be burning the fuel inefficiently. However, you should check the air box and see if the filter is clogged up.

and how could i notice an inefficient fuel burning? can i check the smoke coming out from the exhaust pipe? or is there any way for me to check there is an unusual fuel burning?
thanks a lot~~
the fuel price is killing me recently.....high fuel price & high consumption..........................

[asshat]

hmm, thanks, but....i just wonder.....my car should have done its 60000km service according to the log book....(i purchased it at 63000km, with the log book stamped at 60000km service....)
so, will that still be the spark plug problem?

and i will check the air box tomorrow....do you mean the air box in front of the car under the grill?
or the black plastic box inside the bonnet?
thanks :)

ah ok then it might not be the spark plugs, i was assuming that the car had done something like 80-90,000 Kms but 63,000 is still too early for spark plug replacement.

yes, the air box that is under the bonnet which filters in the cold air in from the intake hose, lift the lid up and see if the filter is dirty.


and how could i notice an inefficient fuel burning? can i check the smoke coming out from the exhaust pipe? or is there any way for me to check there is an unusual fuel burning?
thanks a lot~~
the fuel price is killing me recently.....high fuel price & high consumption..........................

From the mileage you mentioned few posts above, it does seem weird that your car is doing more than usual but from what I know, I don't think there is a way to check the exhaust smoke to see if fuel is burning inefficiently. Only indication is how quickly the fuel tank indicator is dropping by per day and the trip computer.

[curtis265]

haha bro, i drove a FD1. anyway, i'm driving a prelude now so yeah.

DOn't forget.. if the car's rated at 8.7, you won't ever get that.. i always get about 7.5 on the FD1 even though the statistics said 6.9 (honda doesn' tmake these figures btw..)

That fuel conumption is very bad. Unfortunately i have no more ideas for you, so i will just wish you luck. Does the car feel slow btw? Is there lots of black around the exhaust?

[chichichibo]

ah ok then it might not be the spark plugs, i was assuming that the car had done something like 80-90,000 Kms but 63,000 is still too early for spark plug replacement.

yes, the air box that is under the bonnet which filters in the cold air in from the intake hose, lift the lid up and see if the filter is dirty.



From the mileage you mentioned few posts above, it does seem weird that your car is doing more than usual but from what I know, I don't think there is a way to check the exhaust smoke to see if fuel is burning inefficiently. Only indication is how quickly the fuel tank indicator is dropping by per day and the trip computer.

oh, ok, i will try to lift up the air box and check it out~
so, if it is dirty, i just pull it out and wash it? or buy a new one?

[chichichibo]

haha bro, i drove a FD1. anyway, i'm driving a prelude now so yeah.

DOn't forget.. if the car's rated at 8.7, you won't ever get that.. i always get about 7.5 on the FD1 even though the statistics said 6.9 (honda doesn' tmake these figures btw..)

That fuel conumption is very bad. Unfortunately i have no more ideas for you, so i will just wish you luck. Does the car feel slow btw? Is there lots of black around the exhaust?

slow? what do you mean by slow?
hmm....it does feel like it doesnt 'go' at all when i accelerate....but it goes better when it hits abt 3k - 4k rpm.......
black around the exhaust??
hmm.....i believe there is some black substance inside the exhaust pipe....does this count?
and what does the above mean?
thanks a lot!!! :)

[asshat]

oh, ok, i will try to lift up the air box and check it out~
so, if it is dirty, i just pull it out and wash it? or buy a new one?

Replace it entirely with a new one.

[chichichibo]

Replace it entirely with a new one.

but, shouldnt be the air intake box filter be replaced during the service?

anyway, will check it tomorrow....
btw, do u recommend to buy one from Honda, or aftermarket one??
thanks

[curtis265]

Black exhaust means you're running rich - too much fuel, not enough air, meaning you get unburnt fuel goign through the exhaust burning in there rather than in the engine - causes blackness.

The air-fuel ratio is controlled by the ECU, maybe it's worth resetting it... (remove -ve terminal of battery for 5-10 mins)

[asshat]

but, shouldnt be the air intake box filter be replaced during the service?

anyway, will check it tomorrow....
btw, do u recommend to buy one from Honda, or aftermarket one??
thanks

get the OEM honda one, no point in getting an aftermarket one. if you're after aftermarket air intake, you might as well buy an entire Injen or GruppeM Cold Air Intake kit.

[chichichibo]

get the OEM honda one, no point in getting an aftermarket one. if you're after aftermarket air intake, you might as well buy an entire Injen or GruppeM Cold Air Intake kit.

oh, i have checked the air box today, i opened it and had a look,
but....well, i dont know how to tell if it has to be replaced yet...
it is hard when i touch the filter, and looks a bit yellowish....is it fine? or should the filter be white in color?

and for the cold air intake, i saw some post saying that the K20Z2 engine doesnt allow such a modification at all.....
and says that changing the air intake system will reduce the car performance.....
so, i reckon i just stay to the oem one, right?

[chichichibo]

I think the remote would be separate.. i mean the car batt sholdn't have much effect on the ability of the antenna to recieve. Probably the battery in the remote.

A car battery will not damage anything, Wait for winter to replace - chances are that you'll haev more issues there

i bought a battery for the remote today, unfortunately, i got the wrong type.....
==' the packaging states that it is ideal for car remote.......but it doesnt fit.....
does anyone know where to buy?

anyway, but today, after i took out the old battery, and clean a bit of the remote (as there is some dirt inside the remote), and assembled it again....
amazing......the remote works like new....the problem of the remote is gone~ i can lock or unlock the car easily~~......
weird~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~@@

[asshat]

oh, i have checked the air box today, i opened it and had a look,
but....well, i dont know how to tell if it has to be replaced yet...
it is hard when i touch the filter, and looks a bit yellowish....is it fine? or should the filter be white in color?

and for the cold air intake, i saw some post saying that the K20Z2 engine doesnt allow such a modification at all.....
and says that changing the air intake system will reduce the car performance.....
so, i reckon i just stay to the oem one, right?

Hmm if the filter panel isn't black and dirty, but yellow then it should be fine. What model of civic do you have? Civic Sport?

Ahh right, just checked. Seems as if there's almost no or little modifications that can be done :(

[xenfacta]

i had this issue about 3 weeks ago. i thought it was just a lazy fuel pump (thats what it was on my old car) but on xmas eve it decided to die. After 4.5 years the battery finally carked it. Just as well it happened BEFORE my 3500km road trip :)

[chichichibo]

i had this issue about 3 weeks ago. i thought it was just a lazy fuel pump (thats what it was on my old car) but on xmas eve it decided to die. After 4.5 years the battery finally carked it. Just as well it happened BEFORE my 3500km road trip :)

Hi xenfacta
So, wht do u mean? U mean u have the same problem of a delay during the start up, and eventually found out tht the car die??
Sorry, I couldn't get wht u mean......
U mean it is a sign of the car is going to die??
Mine one is only 2007 model......=='

[chichichibo]

Hmm if the filter panel isn't black and dirty, but yellow then it should be fine. What model of civic do you have? Civic Sport?

Ahh right, just checked. Seems as if there's almost no or little modifications that can be done :(

Well, I just can't find out how would that happen.....
But it seems like the delay is getting longer....maybe I need Yo get the car checked.....
Btw, if there is corrosion on the battery (some yellow color on the + and - pole of the battery), is it ok?
Or should I replace the battery?
Thanks

[curtis265]

a bit of corrosion is ok, a lot isn't.

If you drive aroudn a bit, and then park, go away for 5mins, then start he car again, does it start up instantly? or crank for a while?

[chichichibo]

a bit of corrosion is ok, a lot isn't.

If you drive aroudn a bit, and then park, go away for 5mins, then start he car again, does it start up instantly? or crank for a while?

Hmm, its quite satisfactory if I start up again after parking for a while.
But I notice that the car seems getting a little bit longer delay now during the ignition process......maybe it is getting worse.....

And may I ask, for the battery? Is it a special battery? Do I have to buy from Honda? I haven't seen this before as my previous car is the old civic 1995, where the battery is a by common one.....
But the one in my civic sport now, there is an indicator....haha, but dunno how to read it.....=='

[chichichibo]

a bit of corrosion is ok, a lot isn't.

If you drive aroudn a bit, and then park, go away for 5mins, then start he car again, does it start up instantly? or crank for a while?
I will take a pic tmr, I think it's quite serious.....

[DuffyFD]

u don't have to doublepost every reply mang.

[curtis265]

I don't think it's a special battery. The indicator should have a legend next to it on the battery, with different colours representing different charge states or soemthing liek that

[DuffyFD]

All you will need for your battery is to match the general physical size of the battery, but more importantly, the CCA (Cold Cranking Amps). Your new battery must meet or exceed the recommended CCA, otherwise the battery wont have enough juice to turn your engine over!

[chichichibo]

I don't think it's a special battery. The indicator should have a legend next to it on the battery, with different colours representing different charge states or soemthing liek that

yea, there is legend, but the point is....i cant read the indicator....it just looks....black....
no color on the indicator......sometimes, just saw something like water (clear color)....
and the color shape like -o-
where - equals the water color
and o is black.....
anyway, here is the pic of how my battery corrosion likes:
do these corrosion affecting my start up (ignition) as well as the fuel consumption? thanks a lot.

[sirdistik]

Isn't that anti-corrosion grease? I've got it on mine as well. Is it greasy or powder-like?

It's it's powder-like, as in you can blow some of it away then you should clean it off, sand it down a bit (just rough will do) then put the leads back on. BUT remember if you don't have the memory saver, DON'T disconnect the leads. otherwise your engine will lose its transmission settings and you'll have to take it back to honda to get it re-programmed. or so they tell me.

Correct me if i'm wrong guys

[chichichibo]

Isn't that anti-corrosion grease? I've got it on mine as well. Is it greasy or powder-like?

It's it's powder-like, as in you can blow some of it away then you should clean it off, sand it down a bit (just rough will do) then put the leads back on. BUT remember if you don't have the memory saver, DON'T disconnect the leads. otherwise your engine will lose its transmission settings and you'll have to take it back to honda to get it re-programmed. or so they tell me.

Correct me if i'm wrong guys

oh, is it? the anti-corrosion grease??
the substance on the battery on my car is like, solid.....so, not sure if it's the grease u meant....

BUT.....for your statement regarding the lost of memory.....
i was told that, by taking away the connections the battery, i can reset the computer setting for the amount of fuel injection...that's the fuel consumption.....
argh..........i wonder should i do that now....(as i have a very very bad fuel consumption over my FD2.....)

btw, how to know if there is a memory saver in my car?

[curtis265]

Sirdistic, i don't think that's correct, what if you were to get a flat battery? I dont think there's such a thing. There's default settings for the ECU, the car will revert back to that. My car becomes more responsive when the ECU is reset

[DuffyFD]

Curtis is right.

ECU’s in all cars these days are adaptive. They learn. Ofcourse they have a default/factory setting. And if the battery is disconnected for 5-10+ minutes then it will lose all of the little changes the ECU has made to match your driving habits, and it will go back to the factory settings and start learning again.

This is no big deal, give it a month, and the car will feel like it did before you disconnected the battery. It’s normal.

[sirdistik]

OK, Thanks for correcting me guy. So if you don't want to reset your ECU and your radio settings, attach the memory saver before disconnecting the battery. BUT, the ECU does get reset and may ride a bit rough initially. So the RAC telling me that i'd have to take it back to Honda was just bs'ing me.

I only mention this because my battery died on me outside Vic Park last month. waited 1 hour for RAC to come out to tell me it was a dead battery, then another hour for their battery guy to come out. The battery guy used the memory saver thing.

Oh chichibo, the RAC dude mentioned that it "may" be possible to buy it at Repco, but he sounded unsure.

[chichichibo]

Sirdistic, i don't think that's correct, what if you were to get a flat battery? I dont think there's such a thing. There's default settings for the ECU, the car will revert back to that. My car becomes more responsive when the ECU is reset

So, may I ask, if the yellowish substance on my battery is the grease? Or corrosion?
And for resetting the ECU, is it unplugging the negative pole for 5-10mins?
I am going to try this method soon as the fuel consumption is really worse....this 95 fuel nearly half gone, only driven 120km.......I feel like...@@

[curtis265]

Just unplug the battery already. -ve terminal for 5 minutes. Let the engine idle for another few minutes afterward.

and fk that memory saver thing, your ECU won't be reset if you do that. The idea is that you make your ECU forget.

Wipe a bit of the yellow stuff of if it bugs you. You still haven't answered if it's powdery or wet yet..

[chichichibo]

Just unplug the battery already. -ve terminal for 5 minutes. Let the engine idle for another few minutes afterward.

and fk that memory saver thing, your ECU won't be reset if you do that. The idea is that you make your ECU forget.

Wipe a bit of the yellow stuff of if it bugs you. You still haven't answered if it's powdery or wet yet..

Yes, the yellow thing is not like powder, nor wet.
It is solid form and hard when touch it.

[sirdistik]

what about if you try to scrap some of it off with your fingernail? Is it powdery then?? I can't imagine grease hardening up like that. I've got a 06 model and the terminals are still very greasy. If you're uncomfortable with it, just wipe it all off. The corrosion I've seen on battery terminals are usually a bluish/greenish white powder, a bit like copper sulfate.

Anyways, like Curtus said, just disconnect it already, so your car can recalibrate!!

[DuffyFD]

I had mine disconnected last night for about 30mins to an hour, while I was installing the big 3 wires.

Connected all back up and the car is much more spritely now :)

[chichichibo]

I had mine disconnected last night for about 30mins to an hour, while I was installing the big 3 wires.

Connected all back up and the car is much more spritely now :)

Spritely?? What does this mean?
Do u mean The engine runs better? And the fuel consumption is better?

[sirdistik]

just out of curiosity, how old are you ChiChibo?

[curtis265]

By spiritly, he probably means it's quicker and more responsive. And yes it will.

why don't you just try it for yourself so we can continue to diagnose your fuel consumption problem, you've been asking a million questiosn about it. Trust me, nothing will go wrong

[chichichibo]

By spiritly, he probably means it's quicker and more responsive. And yes it will.

why don't you just try it for yourself so we can continue to diagnose your fuel consumption problem, you've been asking a million questiosn about it. Trust me, nothing will go wrong

Ok, sorry about my disturbing questions.....=='
I will try disconnecting it after this tank of fuel so tht I can notice the difference.
Thanks a lot guys :)

[curtis265]

Why wait? Waste more fuel? You said you've done a few tanks already

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

[chichichibo]

Why wait? Waste more fuel? You said you've done a few tanks already

Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk

Oh, just coz I want to finish off this tank so that I can have a record for comparison.
I had 3 records for 98 fuel,
But this is the 1st record for 95 fuel....
Thts y I want to finish this tank first.....don't want to waste the data.....
And it's only less than 1/5 tank left anyway....