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xclusive_eg8
07-02-2011, 11:27 AM
hey guys,

Need some advice on brakes, at the moment I have a 95 GLi with 94 Si rear disk brakes and braided lines all round which I installed. I have bleed the brakes about 5 times now with wood under peddle so it doesnt go all the way down till there is only fluid comming out. And the brakes will get hard when pumped but once car is started the peddle will go all the way down when pressed and car will stop from speed but it is impossable to actually lock up the wheels at all without pulling handbrake. I have checked all lines and there is no leaks or anything. I am using the Si (30/40?) prop valve, GLi 13/16 master cylinder (same as Si 13/16) and GLi booster (same as Si).

I have no idea what is going on here, some help would be great

o-utah158
07-02-2011, 03:24 PM
it's most likey the proportional brake value as it is set up for a drum brakes n not discs so u hav get 1 from the si or vti that has rear disc brakes as standard

TheSaint
07-02-2011, 08:08 PM
do you have ABS installed?

markismaximus
07-02-2011, 08:13 PM
I have bleed the brakes about 5 times now with wood under peddle so it doesnt go all the way down

who told you to bleed brakes with a piece of wood under the pedal??? you don't need anything under the pedal

you may need to rebuild the master cylinder as fluid could be leaking past the cups

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 12:11 AM
The prop valve is from the Si. All brakes are getting fluid when brakes are pressed but not enough pressure.

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 12:12 AM
This is a EG8 man. No ABS

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 12:24 AM
who told you to bleed brakes with a piece of wood under the pedal??? you don't need anything under the pedal

you may need to rebuild the master cylinder as fluid could be leaking past the cups


I been reading up on this quite a bit and few places said make Sure pedal doesnt go all the way down due to dirt and things getting into brake system, like due to in normal brake operation the pedal not going to the floor. But hey I'm not a proffessor here, the Internet does lie.

But yea I'm thinking a new master cylinder (how much does rebuilt kit cost?) Would help a bit.

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 12:27 AM
Will a EG6 master cylinder be a viable choice? Can get booster too

markismaximus
08-02-2011, 09:27 AM
Will a EG6 master cylinder be a viable choice? Can get booster too

could be in the same condition as yours, replacing a busted part with another busted part seems like a waste of time.

DIY MC rebuild

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?34893-DIY-Brake-Master-Cylinder-rebuild

Cost according to this is between $90-100 but this was back in '05 so prices would have gone up since then. Call a couple of honda dealers and check with them. When I replaced my prop valve (new OEM) prices ranged from $240 to $360 :eek:

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 04:05 PM
Honda want 150ish for whole new master cylinder, but il find out about the rebuild kit tomorrow. But in saying that, while I was changing the prop valve and all the master cylinder drained out and well I didn't think it would need a bench bleed, should I just do it now and re bleed brakes??

And who knows if the EG6 master cylinder is working, the guy says it is so ima have to take his word on this. But would buying it be a good choice in terms of will it improve braking power over the 13/16 stock one?? Will EG6 booster also need to be used?

xclusive_eg8
08-02-2011, 08:21 PM
Tryed something new today and gravity bleed them, and well the rears where bubbling like a fish tank no joke. The brake feel has improved a little very little and it's possible to slow car faster. But they still not able to lock up and brakes only engage at about 60% of pedal travel.


Also does anyone know if the CV joint boots rub agains each other and cause a well creaking sound? It was happening so I took drivers side suspension apart and greased everything Evan the outsides of the boots and well no sounds at all now.

Odd