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tseesinngwailo
22-02-2011, 09:38 AM
Hi All,

4000klms ago, I replaced my oil with Honda's new FEO 5w-30 Ultra, and I was very happy with it, but a few days ago, hard braking due to an idiot road user, my oil light flicked on..

Yesterday I checked my oil, and found that there was nothing on the dipstick at all.

Went to Honda Blacktown this morning and got more oil, didnt want to mix oils, and got another 10 litres (they didnt have 1L bottles) so now I found that it needed a bit over 1.5L

There has been no unusual things with driving, in that it runs well, temp is fine, water is OK, no loss, but all I can think of recently is I accidentally hit the rev limiter going onto the freeway, but If I had bent a valve, I am sure I would know about it, the car starts fine too.

So now the bad part, are my rings stuffed? car has done 107000Klm and there are no leaks, ground is clear under the car too. Could this be the wrong oil for my car?

Previously I was using Castrol Edge 0-40 (i think, was around $70 per 5L) and never noticed such high oil use

Any help from the awesome Honda guru's here on OzHonda greatly appreciated, the car will be going to Dr Phil in the next week or so for it's 100K service, am hoping I am not up for a rebuild.

Cheers
Tseesinngwailo

Zilli
22-02-2011, 10:00 AM
does it blow smoke? white smoke?

they are known to chew a bit of oil, be mindful of that

tseesinngwailo
22-02-2011, 10:02 AM
nothing I have seen, someone said that synthetic oil doesnt blow smoke? but does 1.5 plus litres per 4000klm? that sounds way to much for me, oh, just added that previous oil was Castrol Edge, no high use from memory

curtis265
22-02-2011, 11:28 AM
Just so you know, i'm burning about 800mL/1000km using castrol magnatec 10w40. (H22z)

tseesinngwailo
22-02-2011, 11:47 AM
almost 1L per 1000klm? that seems very high to me, do you do a lot of hard road use? I only live 10 mins from my work, so on average do about 70klms total for work, and on weekends may do 100klm or so, Vtec a little, but not enough I would say that I am abusing the car, but interestingly, I also had this last week noticed my fuel use was 44L for 380klms usually I get 450 plus

curtis265
22-02-2011, 12:12 PM
I definitely don't abuse it, probably hit vtak once every few days.

I don't think the short drives help. I'm getting a service soon, hopefully that'll fix things up. Apparently 1L/100km isn't unreasonable for H22's :(

bennjamin
22-02-2011, 12:27 PM
Try 10/30w mate - 5/30 might be alittle thin for summer start up and your older engine might be alittle worn internally. My k20 seems to drink feo ULTRA too - i now use calibre 5/30w full synthetic (very similar to castrol edge) and consumption feels fine

Also replace your PCV if
Its not been done for some time !

tseesinngwailo
22-02-2011, 02:08 PM
Hi Ben, what will a blocked PCV do? I thought it just vented oil mist, or is it pressure related? Seeing as I just bought another 10L, will have to stick with this oil for now, but will definately check it weekly. Cheers, Chris

bennjamin
22-02-2011, 04:03 PM
heres abit on the PCV -


A crankcase ventilation system is a way for gases to escape in a controlled manner from the crankcase (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Crankcase) of an internal combustion engine (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Internal_combustion_engine). A common type of such system is a positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system, the heart of which is a PCV valve—a variable-restriction valve (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Valve) that can react to changing pressure (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pressure) values and intermittently allow the passage of the gases to their intended destination (which nowadays is the engine's intake stream).
Internal combustion inevitably involves a small but continual amount of blow-by, which is when some of the gases from the combustion leak past the piston rings (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Piston_ring) (that is, blow by them) to end up inside the crankcase. The gases could be vented through a simple hole or tube directly to the atmosphere (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Atmosphere_of_Earth), or they could "find their own way out" past baffles or past the oil seals of shafts or the gaskets (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasket) of bolted joints (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bolted_joint). This is not a problem from a mechanical engineering viewpoint alone; but from other viewpoints, such as cleanliness for the user and environmental protection (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Environmental_protection), such simple ventilation methods are not enough; escape of oil and gases must be prevented via a closed system that routes the escaping gases to the engine's intake stream and allows fresh air to come in

From wikipedia.

A PCV has an internal spring which slowly closes as the crankcase builds pressure - as to not let too much blowby thru (oil vapour)
A loose/old/blocked PCV can remain open or partially open at WOT and let oil vapour thru...more oil consumption.

Super-DA9
22-02-2011, 07:38 PM
valve seals could be the cause of this? i used that same oil and my car went through it whenever I hit the high RPMs, obviously due to valve seals (being on the top end). I've got nulon fully synthetic 10-40 in there now and it helped HEAPS but I'm still getting my valve seals replaced tomorrow at the same time as my new cams and valve springs.

I've noticed worn valve seals is very common on B and H series. maybe it's because of their age? especially if it ran on mineral oil its whole life and then changed to synthetic from 120,000+. I reckon thats what happened to mine. I've read that synthetic oils clean out some oil sludge in your engine (if there is any) and sometimes that bit of sludge in the old valve seals can be what's keeping them sealed.

in the service manual for the DC2 and in other places it says that you don't need to remove the head to replace the valve seals. there are special tools and techniques (using compressed air) that are used instead. which would explain why it's only costing me $800. so it's affordable, thank god.

anyway good luck man keep us posted :)

tseesinngwailo
23-02-2011, 04:07 PM
Hi Guys, Thanks Ben, will try cleaning my PCV, or just replace maybe. and Super DA9, I might have to look at that but sadly I have my 100K service which has already cost me heaps in parts, but I will keep it in mind, maybe later in the year, After I have used up my current stock of oil, I will swap back to Castrol Edge I think.

Super-DA9
23-02-2011, 05:29 PM
ok man :) hope it goes well for you

migoreng
23-02-2011, 08:30 PM
Just so you know my H22A4 has 240,000km and looses twice as much and I was using Castrol Edge 5w30...
Had to top up at least half a litre every 1000km.

My maintenance is all up to date. genuine pcv valve was purchased like 6 months ago...etc...but it didn't make a difference compared to a generic $20 pcv.

Lukey
23-02-2011, 08:51 PM
dc2r will have a rev limiter to prevent valve bouncing!

bennjamin
24-02-2011, 07:29 AM
dc2r will have a rev limiter to prevent valve bouncing!

lol all cars have a rev limit to prevent engine damage when upshifting. But this is not relevant when down-shifting....any driver can misshift from 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd etc and go way beyond the actual rev limit ( 9000,10000,12000 rpms theoretically !)

tseesinngwailo
24-02-2011, 11:26 AM
I was in 2nd gear, too busy watching camry in front as i was hoping to swing out onto the freeway and overtake, so hit at 8250 changed as soon as i realised it hit the limiter, made me feel like a noob

GSi_PSi
24-02-2011, 04:00 PM
Fuel cut rev limit is 8400 rpm on a dc2r

u mad?
24-02-2011, 04:12 PM
thought it was 8500? and redline at 8400?

Lukey
24-02-2011, 04:31 PM
lol all cars have a rev limit to prevent engine damage when upshifting. But this is not relevant when down-shifting....any driver can misshift from 4th to 2nd or 5th to 3rd etc and go way beyond the actual rev limit ( 9000,10000,12000 rpms theoretically !)

excels valve bounce. lol