d16y4 into eg? doable?

[kr4zie]

d16y4 to eg problems guides?

Hey guys,
I've got a eg already converted to efi but had a blown engine, and another eg d15b4 also blown engine.
I've come to find a cheap d16y4 from the ek and would like to know if it would be a straight bolt on or any mods would be required.
Any help would be appreciated would be looking to so it really soon
Thanks in advance.

[bennjamin]

not straight bolt in. Ive done it a few times - you need a donor D15b7 or d16y1 engine for OBD1 parts ! What is the EFI engine in it (that is blown) ?

you will need a OBD1 SOHC dizzy , inlet manifold + throttle body , ICAV and FITV, water lines at the back of the block etc - you can literally take all this off another SOHC OBD1 engine.

[kr4zie]

ive got a donor d15b4 and d16a8
will this help?

[kr4zie]

Anyone?

[jdm_b16a]

ive got a donor d15b4 and d16a8
will this help?

D15B4 is carb so pretty much useless for the replacement.

D16A8 is EFI and DOHC but non-VTEC.

Honda ZC

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/photos/zc/honda_zc_sm.jpg

Honda

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/photos/zc/d16a8_honda_sm.jpg

Rover

http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/photos/zc/d16a8_rover_sm.jpg

D16Y4 is possible as are all D Series. Might require a bit of planning but not too difficult.

http://www.ozhonda.com/gallery/data/2/1271old_engine1.JPG

Here's some info (http://www.fourthgenhatch.net/zc.html) I found:

"The ZC was a group of Honda engines for the Japanese market. There were several kinds of ZC. There is the brown top ZC (similar to D16A1), which only bolts into the 84-87 Civic/CRX, and not into the 88-91 Civic/CRX. Then there are the black top ZCs. These include the DOHC ZC, the SOHC ZC (similar to a D16A6), and the SOHC VTEC ZC (similar to a D16Z6). There is a common misconception that the DOHC ZC came in 88-89 Integras. THE ZC IS NOT AN INTEGRA ENGINE. The DOHC ZC is SIMILAR to the D16A1 Integra engine but it is by no means the same. D16A1 engines WILL NOT bolt into the 88-91 Civic/CRX chassis, it will howeever bolt into a 84-87 Civic/CRX if you have one of those. Also the DOHC ZC does not have VTEC. There was a SOHC ZC with VTEC but the DOHC never had VTEC. If you want DOHC + VTEC get a B16A.

D16A8 (and D16A9) engines are essentially ZCs from the non-USDM market. They come from European Civic, CRX, and Concerto from around 88-91 (possibly even later in Concertos), as well as Rover 216/416 GTI (rebadged Concerto) from around 89-96-ish. They are identical in almost every way to the Japanese market ZC, same horsepower, same torque. The engines from Honda cars look identical to the ZC, while the engines installed in Rovers have a distinctive striped valve cover (without any Honda branding), a white timing belt cover, and may come standard with a 4-1 or 4-2-1 exhaust manifold. As far as i can tell, they're probably ~122-130hp, at least in the stock Rover setup. The difference between 122 and 130 seems to be down to the different header designs used in different models and in different years (and possibly different markets). I suppose the cat. and ECU also play a part in the difference. Another difference worth mentioning, the D16A9 was designed to be run without a catalytic converter. From what I understand of Honda’s specs for the engine, it has lower compression (9.1:1)than the ZC (9.6:1)and A8 (9.5:1), yet produces the same hp because it lacks a cat. It only makes sense that running this engine with a cat will not produce the same power. One potential bonus to finding an A8/A9 from a Rover is that it could be up to 8 years newer than a JDM ZC or EDM Honda A8/A9.

hope this helps you,

Peter

[DCLXVI]

or you can run the car with obd2 if you can get the ecu to d16y4, and conversion loom.

[kr4zie]

or you can run the car with obd2 if you can get the ecu to d16y4, and conversion loom.

What do you mean?

Can anyone shed some more light on this.

[[[d a n n y]]]

not worth the hassle as the gains are minimal
just get the same motor and put it back in
or just go the full way and convert to be B motor

[kr4zie]

];2987007']not worth the hassle as the gains are minimal
just get the same motor and put it back in
or just go the full way and convert to be B motor

not worried about the gain just that i picked up the d16y4 dirt cheap and the current engine in the eg has blown.

[kr4zie]

just wanna know what i need to transfer over so i can run it

[[[d a n n y]]]

not worried about the gain just that i picked up the d16y4 dirt cheap and the current engine in the eg has blown.

well what im saying is it's not worth it if it's cheap or not
u got a OBD1/OBD2 wiring problem and engine mounts and various other things
so what ever you purchase to run that motor in your EG, your probably better to pick up the same motor thats out of a EG even though it might cost a tad more it'll probably end up being cheaper

**edit unless you can get all your parts thats needed (conversion harness is around 150 i think) so dirt cheap or free i really dont think it's worth it**

[3iuuop]

yehh do the d16y4 mate best money u will every spend, got one and i walk all over eg's mate. im making 74kw more then enough for daily

[TheSaint]

somebody just went through this whole thing on here not long ago - it was a nightmare - the D16y4 is a real bastard to swap out

get a D15b7 and put on a D16z6 intake manifold with D16a6 cam - i/h/e and u will chomp D16's all day

[kr4zie]

Would you know his username the saint?

[TheSaint]

oocus - he started a few threads - eventually he reckons he got it going - but it was a nightmare

hit him up with a PM - he might be able to help - he basically was in the same boat - had the engine super cheap so had to kinda use it - given the choice tho next time he said he would either convert to OBD2 properly and swap in a D16y8 or stay OBD1 and put in a D16y1/z6

[elias]

I have a d16y4 block, d16y1 head on a d16a8 gearbox.
All I can say is you can run the y4 but it will be far easier to do with an obd1 ecu head on it. In terms of mounts you can bolt what is already in there onto the y4 block.

[kr4zie]

Yeah I hit him up with a pm but he doesn't seem to reply.
D16y1 head might see how much they are
I would swap my d16y4 for a d16a8 though lol

[SajadEG]

i did this in my old EG last year. My mechanic mismatched parts of the blown d15b7 onto the d16y4.

car had some issues with the ITB (throttle body, revs would hunt) but that was it. That motor is worth it, good response to throttle, and consistent through the gearing.

just cos theyre both d series does not mean parts will match, example the FITV, ITB, DIZZY. these things are cheap though.

[TheSaint]

what ITB's did you have on the D16y4?

[SajadEG]

what ITB's did you have on the D16y4?

had the ITB off the d15b7. Car would run, but lag and revs would hunt.

y4 throttle plate is smaller

[kr4zie]

Would you be able to tell me what all the parts where swapped from the d15b7 cause I have blown car with it.

[TheSaint]

ITB from a D15b7? do you mean "Individual Throttle Bodies", intake manifold, or throttle-body?

or is ITB a three letter acronim for some other part that i dont know about?

[SajadEG]

ITB from a D15b7? do you mean "Individual Throttle Bodies", intake manifold, or throttle-body?

or is ITB a three letter acronim for some other part that i dont know about?

just the TB, not the intake manifold

[SajadEG]

Would you be able to tell me what all the parts where swapped from the d15b7 cause I have blown car with it.

dizzy and tb need to be for the d16y4

i had shaft beaing issues with the gearbox also. it might be a problem.

i ended getting a y4 box and the problem never reoccured