Civic Gl carbie to Fi swap

[hmetro24]

Hi, i want to know some information about this car.
The car is dual carb d15b4, i want to convert it to efi .
I need

fuel tank which fuel tank fit eg.
fuel rail
fuel pump

I Am a bit confused, which the best conversion to do d16 or move to b16+ b18.
I have a small budget max 2000$
which obd is D15b4 can i use b16a engine from old car crx or should i use a obd1.
1993 gl is it cable or hydro transmission?

Thanks

[TheSaint]

best value for money swap and easiest would be a EG VTI engine - SOHC VTEC isnt as good ad DOHC but is good value for money and still very tunable

a D16y8 would be better - but than you would have to convert to OBDII

the rule is that u can only put an engine the same age or newer in ur car to have it street legal

as for the other questions - i cant really do the research right now - but the information is out there if you want to look yourself

[hmetro24]

so d16y8 is best for money,
just want to know which obd is d15b4
and transmission is cable or hyrdo
Thanks

[TheSaint]

EG are all OBD1 - D16y8 is from the EJ8 Coupe which is OBDII

the best OBD1 D series u can probably put in is the D16z6 - but in australia i think its called the D16y1 (whatever came in the EG VTI - cant remember off the top of my head)

other than that - save up for an OBD1 b16a or B18c

[hmetro24]

Currently I have seen a guy who selling d16a8 for cheap, So i gonna get it from him.
* D16A8
* 5 speed Gearbox but have a problem with the gearbox, but I know that all D transmission are interchangeable
* Drive shafts
* Shifter linkage
* Engine Loom
* Engine Mounts
* & ECU
I need to get fuel tank fuel rails and pump. does sedan fuel tank fit hatch?
D15b4 ready to get out of the bay, everything are disconnected. what else should i get, should i upgrade rear/ front brakes ?
In addition to A/C power steering will it fit from d15b4 to d16a8, or i need same stuff

[dougie_504]

IMO for $2g the D16A8 or D16Y1 are the best choices, so you've done the right thing.

I can't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure the GBox's are only interchangeable from SOHC-SOHC or DOHC-DOHC but I think 'bennjamin' maybe have stated otherwise previously? If not he'll probably know the answer anyway, seems to be a bit of a guru.

Standard disc brakes (front and rear) are sufficient for any D-series engine Civic. 242mm rotors at the front, and rear discs are great if you're running on drums now.


Have sent you a PM regarding a spare GBox I have.

[EgFanatic]

d16a8 = best d series engine..

[TheSaint]

not exactly lol

the D16Y8 is actually the strongest D platform to build from - second to that is the D16z6 which we didnt get in australia (but closely resembles a D16y1)

[dougie_504]

Hmmm for mid-range obviously the A8 is a better engine, and being DOHC it's more responsive to certain mods. Y1 and Y8 are good but I'd probably prefer an A8 next time.

[TheSaint]

personally if im gona build DOHC i would get a B16a - they are cheap enough these days

if im gona build a D series i wont to to be SOHC =)

although i have seen some pretty nice ZC builds ... and the A8 responds nice to turbo ... but its just not my cup of tea lol

[hmetro24]

Ok Finally i know what i want. I will get the d16a8 but got questions.
Will Integra da9, front/ rear brakes fit eg ? is that enought for brakes upgrade ?
can i use A/C power steering from d15b4 ?
does sohc headers d15b4 fit d16a8 which is dohc ?
Also which Fuel tank will fit, eg eh crx?

[jdmEG5]

For A Complete EFi Conversion, You will need the following. I did a conversion my self so Dont take me wrong.

- EFi motor
- few hoses ( i had to replace my heater hose from a d15b7 motor)
- Underdash harness (passenger/ecu side)
- Rear harness (fuel tank/sensor all the way to tail lights)
- EFi ECU
- Hard Fuel lines or u can use ur carby fuel lines, but you will need to flare both ends of each pipe and use a 5/16 fuel hose/pipe
- Fuel filter and bracket
- EFi underdash fusebox

You can only use fuel tanks from EG sedan or hatch only (afaik)
You cant register an older motor to a younger chassis. (da9 motor)
D15b4 headers will fit on d16a8 since they're both d series.
If you wanna convert to another D series, yes you can use your power steering and a/c i believe.

Dont know about the disc brakes from da9 though.. You can purchase a rear disc brake conversion for $150 - $200 now days

Look around dude, search "carby to efi conversion" on search, im sure you'll find some info

[hmetro24]

Since both cars ( 92 gl and 92 si) are obd1 do i need change cable on the car or just the engine loom. from ecu to the engine bay.

[jdmEG5]

you have to change it.

[hmetro24]

What parts will work from Eh9 94 sedan with d16y1, will loom work.
Also from honda concerto with d16z2, If i take rear brakes from concerto + prop valve and brakebooster from eh9. is that fine
what about fuel tank from concerto will it fit ?
So you mean if i am going from Carb to injection i have to rewire the whole car ? thats gonna be a big job
I do not wanna start buy and than they would nt fit
Thanks

[jdmEG5]

What parts will work from Eh9 94 sedan with d16y1, will loom work.
Also from honda concerto with d16z2, If i take rear brakes from concerto + prop valve and brakebooster from eh9. is that fine
what about fuel tank from concerto will it fit ?
So you mean if i am going from Carb to injection i have to rewire the whole car ? thats gonna be a big job
I do not wanna start buy and than they would nt fit
Thanks

Most parts off the EH9 will work, wirings, rear disc brakes, prop valves, motor, mounts, a/c, p/s are all interchangeable.
Yea it is a big job, you have to take out your dash to get to the major wirings.

Best you buy a EG/EH wreck thats already an EFI and swap it over. You can also use the fuel tank off the sedan

[hmetro24]

perfect mate, i found 94 eh9 in the wrecker i will take everything from it, getting parts for cheap. already took the prop valves, will take brakebooster. will take fuel tank and fuel pump. but somebody took 1 side front rear brakes, and left the second side(I dunno why but stupid). I will update after i get the rest parts.
Also a question rewiring only for the dash or also for the back light revers light , windows ....

[jdmEG5]

Also a question rewiring only for the dash or also for the back light revers light , windows ....

that wirings are for the shock tower > ecu > heater> ac> brake light (switch on pedal)> fuse box and few plugs to connect to driver side shock tower and rear harness.

Windows and that should come with it, just make sure when you get the wirings, make sure NOTHING IS CUT.

[mugen_ctr]

Stick to Y1 as said, for the OBD1, as if u were u go for Y8, u need the conversion harness, anther 200, which isnt to much when u think about it, since ur goin for a much newer engine, y8 is 1997-1998 only, and the kms would be much lower, average Y8 kms are 150000kms - 180000kms

[hmetro24]

Stick to Y1 as said, for the OBD1, as if u were u go for Y8, u need the conversion harness, anther 200, which isnt to much when u think about it, since ur goin for a much newer engine, y8 is 1997-1998 only, and the kms would be much lower, average Y8 kms are 150000kms - 180000kms
I am going to put d16a8 from 92 SI not y8 , into d15b4 dual carb

[jdmEG5]

I am going to put d16a8 from 92 SI not y8 , into d15b4 dual carb

I think the timing belt side engine mount is different.

But good luck anyway

[hmetro24]

Just before i get the ecu loom tmr. The eh9 is sohc with vtec but the engine i got is dohc non vetec, so is it allright to use the sohc wiring on dohc ??
Thanks

[jdmEG5]

Just before i get the ecu loom tmr. The eh9 is sohc with vtec but the engine i got is dohc non vetec, so is it allright to use the sohc wiring on dohc ??
Thanks

Yeah man, EH9 wiring harness can also be used on B18c2/7, b16a/2, d16y1, d16a, d15b7

[hmetro24]

All the fuel tanks in this wrecker are drilled to take fuel out. is it worth to weld the hole. or better to get undrilled tank.
If yes any idea how much to weld the hole cost.

[jdmEG5]

All the fuel tanks in this wrecker are drilled to take fuel out. is it worth to weld the hole. or better to get undrilled tank.
If yes any idea how much to weld the hole cost.

Just get the one with the hole already made from factory.. Personally, i wouldnt wanna drill anything onto a fuel tank.. Incase you made a spark or anything and theres still fuel inside, you'd probably get your head up to china.. lol

Just ask them EG GLi/VTi or Si fuel tank with/without pump

Try not to drill, cut, weld onto a fuel tank unless its necessary to do so and also do not do it unless your a qualified mechanic and know the safety procedures before doing any of them

[hmetro24]

I would like to visit china but not just my head A complete Piece ;). I am going to Pick a part. I will take the fuel tank for free. I will take it and weld the hole somewhere. so i will save some money.
I took every single cable from the EH Vti.
From ecu to the engine bay.
From dash the the rear until fuel pump under the seats.
From under dash to the engine bay. its like rewiring the whole car. i got shocked :|. Its gonna be a puzzle for me to rewire all these wires. Do i really need rewire all these wires or i can still use. I can still use some from carbie ??
I think i need diagram for Si and Vti Also carbie model :|.
some wire should be take out due no vtec on this engine. Does it matter if the car is automatic ?? coz i gonna put them in manual eg.

Still want to know which Rear brakes should i take. I can take from honda concerto or integra Da9. or should i wait untill i find rear vti or Si rear brakes.

Stuff i have:
All inside car loom from Vti.
Brake booster from Vti
Prop valve.
Master cylinder from Vti
D16A8
Gearbox
Drive shafts
Engine Loom
Engine Mounts
ECU P29
Rear sway bar form VTI

Need
Rear brakes discs.
Handbrake cable
Fuel tank ( need to weld the whole )
Fuel rails ( but i will flare the end )
Clutch
If i miss some parts add it

[jdmEG5]

I would like to visit china but not just my head A complete Piece ;). I am going to Pick a part. I will take the fuel tank for free. I will take it and weld the hole somewhere. so i will save some money.
I took every single cable from the EH Vti.
From ecu to the engine bay.
From dash the the rear until fuel pump under the seats.
From under dash to the engine bay. its like rewiring the whole car. i got shocked :|. Its gonna be a puzzle for me to rewire all these wires. Do i really need rewire all these wires or i can still use. I can still use some from carbie ??
I think i need diagram for Si and Vti Also carbie model :|.
some wire should be take out due no vtec on this engine. Does it matter if the car is automatic ?? coz i gonna put them in manual eg.

Still want to know which Rear brakes should i take. I can take from honda concerto or integra Da9. or should i wait untill i find rear vti or Si rear brakes.

Stuff i have:
All inside car loom from Vti.
Brake booster from Vti
Prop valve.
Master cylinder from Vti
D16A8
Gearbox
Drive shafts
Engine Loom
Engine Mounts
ECU P29
Rear sway bar form VTI

Need
Rear brakes discs.
Handbrake cable
Fuel tank ( need to weld the whole )
Fuel rails ( but i will flare the end )
Clutch
If i miss some parts add it

do you have d16a8 engine mounts?
gearbox you can still use..

Wiring - is practically re-wiring the whole car.

The only wiring harness from carby THAT you're able to use is the driver side harness.. Just from shock tower and to the 2 plugs that connects from the passenger side..

What are you welding to the tank? I still dont get that..

Rear disc brake conversion - wait till u get one from an EG/EH unless someone here can correct me if the Da9 are interchange-able to the EG..
Members here usually sell them brake conversions along with trailing arms and handbrake cables..

[jdmEG5]

+ you may also need heater hose from an EFi,
that vacuum hose from master brake to behind/top of intake manifold..

the others are pretty much the same i think

[hmetro24]

+ you may also need heater hose from an EFi,
that vacuum hose from master brake to behind/top of intake manifold..

the others are pretty much the same i think
Have all hoses thats nothing, not a big issue
Vaccum hose i have
D16a8 box i have.
Engine mounts i have for d16a8

Fuel tank: When a car get into Pick-a-part wrecker, they drill a hole in the fuel tank( any car ) to take the fuel out. Being stupid dunno anyway why they do that. So i need to weld that hole in the fuel tank.

Btw you are the only one who attending this thread, big thanks man ;)

[jdmEG5]

Have all hoses thats nothing, not a big issue
Vaccum hose i have
D16a8 box i have.
Engine mounts i have for d16a8

Fuel tank: When a car get into Pick-a-part wrecker, they drill a hole in the fuel tank( any car ) to take the fuel out. Being stupid dunno anyway why they do that. So i need to weld that hole in the fuel tank.

Btw you are the only one who attending this thread, big thanks man ;)


Ahh fair enough, i hope the hole isnt too big man.. good luck!

Hahah its all good dude, i wanna help you out, i had a tread previously about this ; and the only reply i had was "search"
so.. :( yeah, thought i'd help as i could imagine that you're probably as lost as i was back then!

[hmetro24]

Search does not help, But getting the answer for the question will make life easier, I will share my knowledge with others.
I am doing researches but other countries have different car names. also only uk and some other countries have carbie engines, but old model which is Ed. which is a bit different from EG. they aslo have different country rules...
There are many good people around, but maybe they are not reading this noob section :D. everybody was noob before and improving skills.
Before less than 3 months, I had not experience with cars,I did not know how to fill water in the radiator. After that start researching. I did many stuff for the car headgasket/ timing belt/ brakes / suspension/ clogged heater/exhaust system and some other stuff.
And now Doing something more changeable. which is much harder, and thats what i want. I will not pay a cent for a mechanic unless there is no other way to fix the problem.

[jdmEG5]

Search does not help, But getting the answer for the question will make life easier, I will share my knowledge with others.
I am doing researches but other countries have different car names. also only uk and some other countries have carbie engines, but old model which is Ed. which is a bit different from EG. they aslo have different country rules...
There are many good people around, but maybe they are not reading this noob section :D. everybody was noob before and improving skills.
Before less than 3 months, I had not experience with cars,I did not know how to fill water in the radiator. After that start researching. I did many stuff for the car headgasket/ timing belt/ brakes / suspension/ clogged heater/exhaust system and some other stuff.
And now Doing something more changeable. which is much harder, and thats what i want. I will not pay a cent for a mechanic unless there is no other way to fix the problem.


FML you can do a headgasket? LOL i cant even do that =="
well yeah.. Its ozhonda.. LOL good luck anyways man, any problem PM me, i will share my experiences with the efi conversion over pm

[hmetro24]

PM is for private Message, thats mean only me and you will know about that :D. I will post my problem in here so can share with others ;).

[jdmEG5]

PM is for private Message, thats mean only me and you will know about that :D. I will post my problem in here so can share with others ;).

Fair enough ahaha

[hmetro24]

Problem: The loom is for sedan 4 doors and mine is hatch. should i cut the wires for the back windows doors... is it safe to cut the wires. also do i need the fuse box inside the car and from engine bay. or i could use carbie box ??
Also that civic is Sohc vtec and the one i got is Dohc no vetc so i should add or remove some cables. which are they. I have diagram from D16z6, should be similar to d16a8.
if there is d16a8 diagram or simlar are welcome

[jdmEG5]

Problem: The loom is for sedan 4 doors and mine is hatch. should i cut the wires for the back windows doors... is it safe to cut the wires. also do i need the fuse box inside the car and from engine bay. or i could use carbie box ??
Also that civic is Sohc vtec and the one i got is Dohc no vetc so i should add or remove some cables. which are they. I have diagram from D16z6, should be similar to d16a8.
if there is d16a8 diagram or simlar are welcome

You can cut the rear wiring harness but maksure cover the ends with tape after so you wont have any shorts..

YOU NEED EFI FUSE BOX from an EFI CIVIC!! you cant use carby, it may work for few days, but later on, it'll fuk up on you.

Dont worry bout adding/cutting wires coz you're running twin cam motor.

I've said it before, your wiring harness can be used for b series also without any modification

[hmetro24]

Dont worry bout adding/cutting wires coz you're running twin cam motor.

What do you mean by adding cutting, so its like plug and play, and thats should work fine
Also Do i need fuses Box from Engine bay or just under steering wheel. Or both
SRS cables did bring since the car has no Airbag.

[jdmEG5]

What do you mean by adding cutting, so its like plug and play, and thats should work fine
Also Do i need fuses Box from Engine bay or just under steering wheel. Or both
SRS cables did bring since the car has no Airbag.

Yeah it'll be plug and play..

underdash fuse box, engine bay fuse box should be the same whether its from carby or efi.

Just take off the srs cable..

[hmetro24]

Where to buy Bearing for transmission drive shaft bearing ? what you reckon is the price?

[hmetro24]

Having a problem. the sump plug( engine drain bolt) is spinning not getting tight . another bolt same problem. does that mean i should change the sump. can i use one from different engine (d15b4)
Also the AC is not lining up with the engine. does all D series ( sohc and dohc) parts are interchangeable ?

[jdmEG5]

If sump plugs are treaded, use shitloads plumbing tape around the treads.. That's what I do at work and works like a treat!

A/C - I suggest you get the AC condensor/compressor/hoses and dry lines from the car that you took the motor from. From experience, NOT all D series a/c compressors are the same..

Btw, in regards to my previous post (fusebox), I would like to add that It was a mistake, you must have efi fuseboxes. Both engine bay and underdash

[hmetro24]

If sump plugs are treaded, use shitloads plumbing tape around the treads.. That's what I do at work and works like a treat!

A/C - I suggest you get the AC condensor/compressor/hoses and dry lines from the car that you took the motor from. From experience, NOT all D series a/c compressors are the same..

Btw, in regards to my previous post (fusebox), I would like to add that It was a mistake, you must have efi fuseboxes. Both engine bay and underdash

1st is easy fix,
2nd will try again tmr, working alone on car, its pain in the ass.I was using my legs to higher the engine crane.
Fuesbox you told me that i need both fuesboxes, so i have both.

cheers mate
http://img822.imageshack.us/img822/5737/20052011320.jpg

[jdmEG5]

Yeah the fuseboxes must be from an EFi eg civic.

[hmetro24]

Problem: the driver drive shaft seems to get **** up. from the gearbox side ( its like free in there) . Can i fix the ball joint ( I am not sure if they call it like that). or i need another one.
If i am not wrong driver drive shaft are same in driver side for all D series but passenger side is different. fix me if wrong.

[jdmEG5]

Upload some pics of the driveshafts.

Yeah driver drivershaft are shorter than passanger side. All D series driveshafts should fit. If you're thinking about getting it replaced, get driveshafts from an EG, ed/ef might have different lengths, I'm not too sure.

Are you using your old gearbox from the d15b4 or from the Si?

[hmetro24]

What I have done so far, i changed the ISB from Si gearbox (since everything look good inside , gears bearing ). I took the rubber thing from the Drive shaft cleaned it, put new grease and fit it back with zip tie.
Drive shaft is good again.

[hmetro24]

having a problem again: I installed shift linkage. but i can not shift to 2nd 4th and reverse, 1st 3rd and 5th goes perfect. I went under car and the shift linkage bushes is like moving. could that be the problem or something is wrong with gearbox. :|

[jdm_b16a]

having a problem again: I installed shift linkage. but i can not shift to 2nd 4th and reverse, 1st 3rd and 5th goes perfect. I went under car and the shift linkage bushes is like moving. could that be the problem or something is wrong with gearbox. :|

I had the same problem. Check the rubber collar on the end of the shaft (where it goes onto the pin - deleting it will fix the problem, or you have installed it wrong way 'round. Try reversing it - if that doesn't work then just delete it.

Peter

[hmetro24]

http://desmond.yfrog.com/Himg716/scaled.php?tn=0&server=716&filename=shiftlinkager.jpg&xsize=640&ysize=640
which one should i delete( remove )

[jdm_b16a]

Lower right - the "Boot". What is happening is that when you shift up (pull back on the gear lever) the Boot is compressing. If it is on the wrong way it will not compress sufficiently to allow you to pull all the way back on the lever, and you cannot select 2nd or 4th or reverse correctly.

Peter

[hmetro24]

I do not have intake yet, since the engine didnt come with intake or airbox..
is it legal to install aftermarket intake + filter or i need oem intake with box to pass rwc .....

[hmetro24]

Gears working good now, can shift to all after flipped the pin retainer.
I am having another problem. the left side wiring that goes out from driver side to engine bay. there are 2 connectors 1 big and 1 small . however there are 2 big connectors and 1 small connectors that goes from engine side.
does that mean that i am have the wrong loom??

[jdmEG5]

Nope ur right. Carby harness has 2 on passenger shock towers and 2 on drivers.

[hmetro24]

Nope ur right. Carby harness has 2 on passenger shock towers and 2 on drivers.

I am talking about EFI . I will take pictures tomorrow

[markismaximus]

have you welded your fuel tank yet? You still seem to be alive so I assume not?

Really doesn't seem like a safe thing to do, its been said above but just get another tank

[hmetro24]

have you welded your fuel tank yet? You still seem to be alive so I assume not?

Really doesn't seem like a safe thing to do, its been said above but just get another tank
No I did not weld the fuel tank, since everyshop i went to, said no we do not weld the fuel tank because its danger.
I got a another one.

[jdm_b16a]

No I did not weld the fuel tank, since everyshop i went to, said no we do not weld the fuel tank because its danger.
I got a another one.

Smart move. Glad to hear you're still with us!

Peter

[hmetro24]

Smart move. Glad to hear you're still with us!

Peter
Thanks peter
http://img42.imageshack.us/img42/4826/29052011326.jpg
I wanna know there are 3 fuel lines
1- return= medium or small
2- vaccum= medium or small
3- main line to injectors = biggest line
http://img339.imageshack.us/img339/6536/29052011328.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/339/29052011328.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Also hoses are short, should i get normal hose or high pressure hose ??

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9306/29052011327.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/52/29052011327.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
there is a missing plug from driver side to engine bay.(or i am wrong )
the wire that come from driver side have 2 plugs not 3 ( i got the wires from Fi car) am i missing something

[jdmEG5]

Yeah you're aright man, driver side has 2 plugs as I previously posted and passanger has 3. You're on the right track!

[hmetro24]

check the picture again ^^^^

[jdmEG5]

That's how mine is I think LOL.. Come to think about it, now I'm not sure LOL
Is it same as your carby loom?

[hmetro24]

Can u have a look at your car, both passenger and driver side have 3 plugs.

[hmetro24]

That's how mine is I think LOL.. Come to think about it, now I'm not sure LOL
Is it same as your carby loom?

No its is not the same as carbie loom, carbie loom has 2 plugs in driver side and 2 in passenger side.
I have seen 2 FI and there is only 2 plugs from driver side.
any wires goes from passenger side to driver side

[dorikin]

You guys are confusing yourselves. Learn to differentiate the harnesses.

On an EFi EG drivers side strut tower:

- Engine wire harness side (Engine Loom) - There are 3 plugs however only 2 are connected. The third one is a junction connector which is not plugged into anything

- Engine compartment harness (Engine Bay) - Therefore on the engine bay harness there are only 2 plugs.

http://img163.imageshack.us/img163/8889/driverwireharness2.jpg

Middle plug is the junction connector which is capped off.

[hmetro24]

You guys are confusing yourselves. Learn to differentiate the harnesses.

On an EFi EG drivers side strut tower:

- Engine wire harness side (Engine Loom) - There are 3 plugs however only 2 are connected. The third one is a junction connector which is not plugged into anything

- Engine compartment harness (Engine Bay) - Therefore on the engine bay harness there are only 2 plugs.

Thanks a lot mate, thats mean that the 3rd plug will not plug anywhere.
But why is it in there, is it used for something else??

[dorikin]

The junction connector links all those yellow/black wires together with the cap to supply power to various things like injectors.


http://civic-eg.com/pics/diy/resistor_box2/DSCN4405.jpg

You will need this cap.

[hmetro24]

Oh thanks mate, almost throw this cap away :|. thought its useless :D
I still have it around :)

[jdmEG5]

There you go! Lolz I fail help

[hmetro24]

There you go! Lolz I fail help
Why mate, you already helped me enough ;) chears

[hmetro24]

Which Oem air intake, box fit D16a8. will any civic fit the engine??

[hmetro24]

http://img641.imageshack.us/img641/7402/02062011331.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/641/02062011331.jpg/)
What should i do with charcoal canister biggest hose. there is nowhere to connect it. what about the rest 3 small hoses. one to fuel tank. one for manifold.
where should i connect the third one ??
should i block the biggest one ?
or should i get one with 3 small hoses ?

[jdm_b16a]

What should i do with charcoal canister biggest hose? There is nowhere to connect it. What about the rest 3 small hoses. one to fuel tank. one for manifold. Where should i connect the third one ? Should i block the biggest one or should i get one with 3 small hoses ?

Some people use the canister; some don't. I did so made the job easy.

Peter

[hmetro24]

Some people use the canister; some don't. I did so made the job easy.

Peter
As i have read, that will not pass rwc if canister is not installed.Emission

[jdm_b16a]

For a good description of how I set mine up, look here:

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?100695-ED-Hatch-Rebuild-Ground-Up!&p=2029920&highlight=charcoal+canister#post2029920

This should help you out.

Peter

[hmetro24]

I went into all your thread before, but somehow I missed that part.
I will get EFI canister, and replace it ;).
Hoping to start the car this week

[hmetro24]

I got a new battery, wired everything. engine is not cranking. I can here fuel pump, cd player is working, cluster lights are working. but the engine is not cranking.
what could be the problem, is it the start motor ?

[dorikin]

Is there a thick cable running from the battery to the starter motor?

[hmetro24]

Is there a thick cable running from the battery to the starter motor?

yes there is a thick cable that goes from battery to the starter

[dorikin]

Next thing to check would be the ground strap from the gearbox to the chassis. Should have a thick ground cable there.

And then after that check Start signal to starter motor.

[hmetro24]

Next thing to check would be the ground strap from the gearbox to the chassis. Should have a thick ground cable there.

And then after that check Start signal to starter motor.
All Grounds are connected
2_ how to check the strt signal to the starter motor??Do i need multimeter "

[jdm_b16a]

You need two things to make the car start:

1. Fuel - you can hear the pump but do you have fuel pressure?

2. Spark - check your distributor, leads and plug gaps. Also check for spark.

Verify those two first then look at other things, like the ECU (inside) also check the fuse box under the bonnet. Reset the ECU by pulling the backup fuse for 10secs.

Peter

[dorikin]

He said the engine is not cranking.


All Grounds are connected
2_ how to check the strt signal to the starter motor??Do i need multimeter "

Try this. To bypass the ignition switch circuit you can unplug the solenoid terminal wire (should be thin blk/wht wire on starter motor) and then connect a jumper wire from the battery + to the solenoid terminal. If this cranks the engine, then you have a short/open circuit between the ignition switch and starter solenoid.

[hmetro24]

http://i639.photobucket.com/albums/uu115/RonJ_HT/picture_5078.jpg
Could that be a problem ??

[dorikin]

Australian models don't have a clutch interlock switch.

[hmetro24]

Australian models don't have a clutch interlock switch.
Oh ok thanks , will check the again everything tmr.

Does all D series start motor are the same. i could try d15b4 starter

[jdmEG5]

Australian models don't have a clutch interlock switch.

my GL does :s

[hmetro24]

my GL does :s
That what I have seen on my car, so i do not know if that is the same. A plug should be connected there.
I will check tomorrow and will take pcitures

[jdmEG5]

That what I have seen on my car, so i do not know if that is the same. A plug should be connected there.
I will check tomorrow and will take pcitures

i remember it had a plug (on the carby harness) when i changed my harness, then when i put my efi harness in, i was looking around and double checking if i missed it.. :s so im not quiet sure.. atm, theres no plug on that clutch switch lol

[hmetro24]

Also had another thing, the ignition wires that goes to fues box is a female plug. otherwise the Efi fuse box should have a male ignition plugs :|. I search each honda in the wrecker all have same female plug. the car i took the loom from does not exist in there anymore. So bad luck

[hmetro24]

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/3093/05062011338.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/11/05062011338.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/3286/05062011339.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/831/05062011339.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/6106/05062011340.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/199/05062011340.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Here both start motors. same problem not cranking.
Thats the ignition Plug which is not the same as the one in fuse box.

when i turn the ignition i hear a click, Do you think I have a problem with main relay??

[dorikin]

How do you even have it connected up right now to start if the ignition plug doesn't fit?

It looks like you're missing a grey piece on the right side of the fusebox:

http://causeforalarm.thecarthing.com/version6/version6.EG/stealth_alarm/fuse_box.jpg

http://www.b18c5eg.com/EG_underdash_fusebox.jpg

[hmetro24]

How do you even have it connected up right now to start if the ignition plug doesn't fit?

It looks like you're missing a grey piece on the right side of the fusebox:

I rewired the 3 Wires to there.
That's what its look like, seems somebody before me took that peace.

[jdmEG5]

I remember when I converted mine, I also had the same problem as you, when I tried to crank it, it wouldn't crank but instead I hear a click and my dashboard lights dimmed within that second of turning the key (Its normal).. My problem was the grounding from gearbox to the chassy, I double checked and etc but still didn't do it, so I tried relocating it - I drilled another hole onto the chassy and it worked ( I hand to sand it down abit to bare metal)

You can try use a test light, check everything or the ignition bit, try it and crank it..? If you know what I mean? Or try a different fusebox, get another efi one or borrow ur mates.. Try both engine bay and underdash fusebox.. Who knows ur fusebox is faulty? Check wirings from the engine bay fuse box, check the plugs from both shock towers? Also check ecu fuse on the engine bay fusebox?

Good luck man

[hmetro24]

I remember when I converted mine, I also had the same problem as you, when I tried to crank it, it wouldn't crank but instead I hear a click and my dashboard lights dimmed within that second of turning the key (Its normal).. My problem was the grounding from gearbox to the chassy, I double checked and etc but still didn't do it, so I tried relocating it - I drilled another hole onto the chassy and it worked ( I hand to sand it down abit to bare metal)

You can try use a test light, check everything or the ignition bit, try it and crank it..? If you know what I mean? Or try a different fusebox, get another efi one or borrow ur mates.. Try both engine bay and underdash fusebox.. Who knows ur fusebox is faulty? Check wirings from the engine bay fuse box, check the plugs from both shock towers? Also check ecu fuse on the engine bay fusebox?

Good luck man
I will check other civic fuesbox, if its different, I will get it. I will check everything later, due to having a very busy week, exams, tests. I wanna study for a lil bit even I hate studying.
Thanks mate :)

[hmetro24]

Again having the same problem checked all grounds, tried another fuesbox.
Dashboard is getting light, main relay is ticking, all fuses are good.
not cranking again

[jdmEG5]

Weird..

[hmetro24]

Weird..

its working now, I jumped the starter motor and the engine start like a tractor with out putting the header.
No how can i fix the start motor not to jump start it ??

[hmetro24]

He said the engine is not cranking.



Try this. To bypass the ignition switch circuit you can unplug the solenoid terminal wire (should be thin blk/wht wire on starter motor) and then connect a jumper wire from the battery + to the solenoid terminal. If this cranks the engine, then you have a short/open circuit between the ignition switch and starter solenoid.

The engine start now, how can i fix this short/open circuit between the ignition switch and starter solenoid ??

[jdmEG5]

Wait.. Maybe your battry is no good?

[hmetro24]

Wait.. Maybe your battry is no good?
Battery is new mate, as i said bellow I connect a wire from Positive to the solenoid terminal on the starter motor and engine starts.

[jdmEG5]

Battery is new mate, as i said bellow I connect a wire from Positive to the solenoid terminal on the starter motor and engine starts.

oh my bad. LOL :$

[hmetro24]

are the Sohc and Dohc power steering pump is the same ??
Bracket is not the same.
are the Sohc and Dohc A/c is the same ?
Bracket is not the same.

[EG8 CIVIC]

are the Sohc and Dohc power steering pump is the same ??
Bracket is not the same.
are the Sohc and Dohc A/c is the same ?
Bracket is not the same.

and make sure you get the ps pump that bolts up to the motor and the ps line that bolts up to the pump.

[jdmEG5]

are the Sohc and Dohc power steering pump is the same ??
Bracket is not the same.
are the Sohc and Dohc A/c is the same ?
Bracket is not the same.

I'm 100% the ac is different. They varies from engine to engine - even though it came from an sohc , for eg, D15b7 compressor cannot be fitted to d16y1. Tried that - never worked .

Power steering, pump my be same but bracket is diff. Have you tried using your old bracket?
I'm using d15b4 ps pump on my d16y1

[hmetro24]

I'm 100% the ac is different. They varies from engine to engine - even though it came from an sohc , for eg, D15b7 compressor cannot be fitted to d16y1. Tried that - never worked .

Power steering, pump my be same but bracket is diff. Have you tried using your old bracket?
I'm using d15b4 ps pump on my d16y1
The d16a8 P/S bracket is 2 pcs. the d15b4 is one pcs but its does not bolt on the d16a8 engine. The d15b4 a/c bracket bolts on d16a8 but its seems that a/c Belt is way out by 2mm.
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u29/keelonboaz/DSCI0218-1.jpg I have the right piece but the left one is missing :|

[dorikin]

I have a D16A8 AC Bracket if you're interested.

[hmetro24]

I have a D16A8 AC Bracket if you're interested.
I have A/C bracket,
Btw mate how to fix the problem with ignition ? any idea

[jdmEG5]

Hmm... In regards to the power steering, looks like you gotta get the si p/s pump man, makes life easier..
For the belt, is it possible if you able to use the alternator belt?
Worse case scenario is you have to get those parts off an si man.. :s

[hmetro24]

I found the problem not cranking, because the loom is for automatic car. starting wires goes to the console so the car should be in Parking or Neutral to start. I rewired the 2 wires to gather. Now what other wires should i rewire from automatic to manual loom ??
thanks again

[jdmEG5]

I found the problem not cranking, because the loom is for automatic car. starting wires goes to the console so the car should be in Parking or Neutral to start. I rewired the 2 wires to gather. Now what other wires should i rewire from automatic to manual loom ??
thanks again

OH! Good job man! Maybe shouldve started off with that :p

Re-wiring, ask Peter aka jdmb16a. He is the man when it comes to this. I purchased a vti loom and ecu off him which both used to be for auto only (My car is atm is manual). He did some mods to it but I don't exactly know what wires he did..

[[[d a n n y]]]

U just. Need to keep the wires constantly looped

[hmetro24]

I used the clutch interlock. so i wired the red/black to one wire, and the black white to the 2nd wire and pluged it to clutch interlock. so i have to press the clutch to the the car.
Engine starts and idle but here are the problems I have with electric.
power windows not working
door interlock not working
mirrors not working
cluster is not showing rpm not even speed.
indicators are not working but lights low high beam is working
cd player is working.
so I do know where to start from any ideas.

[jdm_b16a]

I used the clutch interlock. so i wired the red/black to one wire, and the black white to the 2nd wire and pluged it to clutch interlock. so i have to press the clutch to the the car.

You have the first part correct. To fool the car (which was once an auto) to start you have to tell it that it is in PARK. To do this you loop the two large wires. The black (Earth) and the green/white (Neutral) are joined together. You don't need the clutch interlock as that was an American safety feature required because of several court cases where drivers sued because they were able to start the car and crash it whilst drunk, and then blamed the car manufacturers. So they are required to depress the clutch pedal before being allowed to switch the car's ignition "ON". For us, we can just short out those two large wires, the BLK/RED and the BLK/WHT. The only two other wires you need to be concerned with are the backup light wires, which you run from the gearbox. These are the YELLOW and GREEN/BLACK. Now when you put the car in reverse the rear lights will come on.



power windows not working
door interlock not working
mirrors not working
indicators are not working but lights low high beam is working

These are all on the one plug that is joined at the door jamb. Use a multimeter set to "Continuity" to check that all those wires actively go to where they should.



cluster is not showing rpm not even speed.

First check the blue wire on one of the two large cluster connectors. Trace it for continuity to the shock tower where it picks up RPM from the engine bay. Also, are you using an electronic VSS (Vehicle Speed Sensor) plugged into the gearbox. There are three wires (I think) that go to the ECU and send a speed signal to the cluster as well. Or it could be your cluster is not getting power (12V+). Do any of the lights on the cluster work?

Hope this helps you out a little. It's so hard to be precise with wiring issues. But I feel your pain.

Good luck,

Peter

[hmetro24]

The clutch interlock is very useful for me, because i always start the car and forget that its on gear :|.

Cluster is getting light but i should check the fuses again for gauges. also The car was 4 door sedan and mine is hatch so i cut the back door wires.
there is a black wire under dash that should be plugged some where seems to be ground, but i see no where to plug it :|.
Thanks will check tomorrow

[markismaximus]

hmmm I personally wouldn't be using the clutch interlock switch to join those wires. I don't think it will be long till the switch burns out because of the current that is running through it.

you'll notice that most wires that have anything to do with ignition or the starter motor are a thicker gauge wire.

either join them directly as Peter mentioned above or wire a heavy duty (atleast 60amp) relay from the clutch interlock switch. Jaycar sell them for about $9 from memory. You can see looking at factory wiring diagrams with a clutch switch make use of a relay

[jdm_b16a]

You'll notice that most wires that have anything to do with ignition or the starter motor are a thicker gauge wire.

either join them directly as Peter mentioned above or wire a heavy duty (atleast 60amp) relay from the clutch interlock switch. Jaycar sell them for about $9 from memory. You can see looking at factory wiring diagrams with a clutch switch make use of a relay

Look at this photo. See the two large gauge wires.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e122/pcupo12/Conversion4.jpg

You have to use same gauge wires or as Mark says, you will short out very soon due to inability of lesser gauge wires to conduct. That's why I just soldered them together. The other alternative, as Mark also says, is to use a relay but that is a lot of work when none is required. I believe in not making it harder than you have to!

FYI: the two bottom wires are reverse switch on gearbox. Black and GRN/WHT is PARK setting - these two wires also need to be joined together. Don't worry about the PINK - that's cruise control.

Peter

[jdm_b16a]

The car was 4 door sedan and mine is hatch so i cut the back door wires.

Hmm, that is not good. Where do these cut wires go? In all the Hondas I've worked on, the wiring is interconnected, especially the EARTHs. By just cutting off the plug you destroy the loop. I'd be looking at that area as part of your problem.


There is a black wire under dash that should be plugged some where seems to be ground, but i see no where to plug it :|.
Thanks will check tomorrow

There is one black Earth wire under the dash (part of the dash wiring) and it should have a spade connector on it. It plugs onto the metal bracket behind the cluster. Look for a spade connection or if you can't see it (its not that easy to find especially when the dash is already in) just cut of the connector, put a ring terminal on it and screw it to some bare metal.

Peter

[hmetro24]

Yes that's right, i will check the wires again and check if i cut any grounds or any other wires. For reverse light I just have to wire the 2 wires together and that's it ?
I though wiring gonna be the easy job, but seems the worst one but that's good for me .

[jdm_b16a]

For reverse light I just have to wire the 2 wires together and that's it ?
I though wiring gonna be the easy job, but seems the worst one but that's good for me .

No, those two wires go to join the two wires off the plug on the gearbox.

Wiring is NEVER easy. It's time consuming and extremely frustrating at times, even with a FSM.

Peter

[markismaximus]

No, those two wires go to join the two wires off the plug on the gearbox.

Wiring is NEVER easy. It's time consuming and extremely frustrating at times, even with a FSM.

Peter

I lol'ed a little when I read this

Couldn't agree more, wiring is the biggest PITA job

[hmetro24]

I lol'ed a little when I read this

Couldn't agree more, wiring is the biggest PITA job

Wiring I hope is working from front, doors mirror wiper motor mirrors interlock and other stuff. not sure 100% that everything is working perfect t. inductors are not working could be bulbs or something else.
Having hard time to connect the rear wires. since the loom is from sedan :| and wires are different to hatch.
Power steering pump is the same from d16a8 and d15b4 only bracket and belt are different.

[jdmEG5]

Hmm... :( good luck is all I can say man!

I though have the same problem as you, my power side mirrors don't work..and neither is my interior light..
I had to hook up a wire from the interior light straight to the batt to get it working :(

[hmetro24]

Hmm... :( good luck is all I can say man!

I though have the same problem as you, my power side mirrors don't work..and neither is my interior light..
I had to hook up a wire from the interior light straight to the batt to get it working :(
that's mean you missed a wire somewhere :D. power mirrors are working good on mine :D.
Before ground was not tight enough, but now is good :D.

[jdmEG5]

Yeah well it works on both side, only left and right though.. Up and down don't work lol so is pretty pointless to me..
Does your interior light also work?

[jdmEG5]

Yeah well it works on both side, only left and right though.. Up and down don't work lol so is pretty pointless to me..
Does your interior light also work?

[hmetro24]

Indicators are not working on all sides. may be switch is damaged somehow :|.
Lights are working
reverse is working now
will keep working on it.
Radiator fan is not starting, should check it later.

[jdm_b16a]

Indicators are not working on all sides. may be switch is damaged somehow

Now here's a tip for you. You have to have all wires in correctly, all bulbs checked and working fully, and the hazard switch connected.

If your indicators are still not working then you have a wiring issue.

This was the experience i had when doing my ED6.

Peter

[hmetro24]

All lights almost works should check the ceiling lights. was blown fuse, that's why indicators did not works.
There is a plug with 2 pins beside the driver side on the right hand that goes to the ceiling what is this plug ?
also I see water is coming out from the exhaust system, why is that ? is it alright ?

[jdm_b16a]

All lights almost works should check the ceiling lights. was blown fuse, that's why indicators did not works.
There is a plug with 2 pins beside the driver side on the right hand that goes to the ceiling what is this plug ?
also I see water is coming out from the exhaust system, why is that ? is it alright ?

Water is just condensation. It should clear after a minute or two of engine running.

That's either your interior dome light, or if the harness came out of a car with a sunroof, it might be the sunroof control. Does it have a white and green wire as one of the two wires?

Peter

[hmetro24]

Its fat wires not thin wires,If i am not wrong one is Green/red, since I do not have Sun roof, so that's the dome light.

[hmetro24]

I wanna know, how many plugs goes to the rear. I see big plug and 1 small but i can not find anywhere to connect the small plug :|.
Also there is a small 2 pin plug that goes from driver side to the passenger side but i see no where to connect it.

[jdm_b16a]

I wanna know, how many plugs goes to the rear. I see big plug and 1 small but i can not find anywhere to connect the small plug :|.
Also there is a small 2 pin plug that goes from driver side to the passenger side but i see no where to connect it.

That depends on where you are starting from. At the fuse box there are at least 2 or 3 plugs that send wires to the rear but if you look behind the driver's seat, there is a join which is one big plug.

The 2 pin plug could be the stereo wires for the rear speakers. What colour are they? The only other wire that goes across the car to the passenger side is the door open light, which is a single green/red wire (I think).

Peter

[hmetro24]

The other 2 ping plug is red/yellow wires and gray/??black. it reach beside the big plug

[hmetro24]

What are these 2 plugs one goes to rear passenger side from fusebox
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4567/20062011359.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/87/20062011359.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
one goes to from fuesbox to the rear ofdriver side
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2567/20062011360.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/20062011360.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Never Mind I get it
Left Rear (+) .......Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) .......Gray/White
Right Rear (+)..... Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) ......Brown/White

[hmetro24]

Went for RWC Today, Rear wiper and washer should be working, but it is not working since the loom is from sedan and sedan doesn't have rear wiper and flasher . So how should i fix it ??
Should also change the Rear Trailer control arm bushes, not a big deal.

[jdm_b16a]

What are these 2 plugs one goes to rear passenger side from fusebox
http://img87.imageshack.us/img87/4567/20062011359.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/87/20062011359.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
one goes to from fuesbox to the rear ofdriver side
http://img40.imageshack.us/img40/2567/20062011360.th.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/40/20062011360.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Never Mind I get it
Left Rear (+) .......Blue/Yellow
Left Rear (-) .......Gray/White
Right Rear (+)..... Red/Yellow
Right Rear (-) ......Brown/White

Blue & Yellow, and Red & Yellow are always a giveaway as stereo wires. Good to see you spotted that pretty quickly.


Rear wiper and washer ... is not working since the loom is from sedan and sedan doesn't have rear wiper and flasher . So how should i fix it ??

OK. You will need to run some wires. Tomorrow morning I will post up the wires and where to run to.


Peter

[hmetro24]

http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/6633/123fg.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/854/123fg.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Here are image for rear/front wiper motor(Using Tolerance Data 2009)
Lt Gn/black and Green wire, does they go straight to the rear wiper motor ?
Also is it the green/black wire is the only wire that goes to the washer motor ?

[markismaximus]

thats the problem:p you are using a haynes manual....

get a copy of the honda FSM

[hmetro24]

thats the problem:p you are using a haynes manual....

get a copy of the honda FSM

http://img862.imageshack.us/img862/3231/321e.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/862/321e.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
This is even worst it shows only Black green wire what about the rest ?? :|

[markismaximus]

where did you get the rear harness from? was it complete?

I am about 98% positive the sedan harness has the plug for a rear window wiper. Its just not in use and taped up somewhere near the last few plugs.

Thats what I recall when I modified a sedan efi EG harness to suit my ED hatch

[hmetro24]

Maybe there are wires for the rear wiper motor, but no wires for the washer motor .

[markismaximus]

so you'll have to wire in a connection from the switch to the motor. Check the electrical section of the FSM (pg 645), it should give more info as to the functions of each wire within the plug

[hmetro24]

I will check the wires tomorrow, Btw any idea how to paint bumper.
I know i should clean it well, sand it down to be soft. what should I do after? how many times should i paint it?

[jdm_b16a]

Lt Gn/black and Green wire, does they go straight to the rear wiper motor? Also is it the green/black wire is the only wire that goes to the washer motor ?

Mark could be correct when he says there may be a plug for the rear wiper as Honda would make a standard harness with only small variations, depending on model.

But to answer your immediate questions:

Nothing on a Honda harness ever goes STRAIGHT to anywhere, function-wise. There will be junction blocks, terminal blocks and dead ends. If Honda put every wire into the harness for every function, it would be massive so what happens is single wires do multiple jobs depending on where they are routed to. Take, for example, the GRN/BLK wire. It is everywhere but each one goes to a different area. Also you can't just run it from the steering column to the motor as it has to pick up PWR somewhere along the harness.

Let's start at the steering column.

There are 4 plugs. I'll label them ST1 to ST4. You need to identify these plugs to complete your job.

ST1: 8 PIN [IGN]
ST2: 8 PIN [FRONT WIPERS & WASHER BOTTLE]
ST3: 4 PIN (INDICATORS]
ST4: 6 PIN [REAR WIPER & WASHER BOTTLE]

Note: Both front and rear washer bottles and motors are mounted behind the passenger side guard.

OK So we have identified the plug as ST4 but only five of the 6 pins are used

BLK = EARTH
GRN/BLK = PWR to rear washer bottle
GRN/BLK = PWR to both front and rear wiper motors
GRN = Goes to Rear Wiper Motor
LT GRN/BLK = Goes to Rear Wiper Motor

But it is not as easy as that.

The GRN wire runs down the steering column to a pin on a large GREY plug under the dash.
One of the GRN/BLK wires gets its PWR from the IGNITION plug (the one directly below the GRN wire) fed by FUSE 14 in the FUSE BOX. This same wire also provides PWR to windshield wipers, intermittent relay, both front and rear wiper motors and the washer bottles. It runs from the steering column to the medium sized BROWN plug which sits with a large GREY plug in a cradle tucked in under the dash above the FUSE BOX.
The LT GRN/BLK wire runs to the same medium sized BROWN plug.
BLK can be EARTHED if not already by usual method.
The other GNR/BLK wire runs to the rear washer bottle motor (according to my trace maps but I'm sure it's not as simple as that but I have no other data)

So you can see it's quite complex - in fact my brain still hasn't recovered almost two years later when I traced every wire in the Honda harness and tried to make maps of it all.

Best bet is if you locate

the ST4 plug on your steering column. Verify it has the same wires.
the two washer bottles under the passenger guard. Verify it has working washer bottle motors. There are two plugs, each has two pins (PWR & EARTH). The front washer is the T-pin and the rear washer is the H-pin. The rear washer is closest to the front of the car. Pull it out and the PWR pin is the one closest to the clicklock. Apply 12V to that pin whilst EARTHing the other pin - the little motor should start. You could also do a CONTINUITY test from your steering column ST4 to the rear washer to see if you have a connection at least in the front part of the car. REMEMBER you are testing the motor so apply the above to the pins on the motor (Just wanted to clarify that - sorry if it was obvious)

NOTE: Don't be alarmed if you see two GRN/BLK wires running into each of the washer bottle motors (that is I said there are two pins but each PWR pin is part of a bigger PWR circuit hence one GRN/BLK wire comes into a motor then runs out to the other motor). This one single issue stumped me for well over a month and I only realised it when I picked up another harness at the wreckers. WHY? Because on my harness one of the GRN/BLK wires had broken off with age right down inside the plug and I would never have seen that in a million years. I also learnt at that point to never trust those black and/or blue tape joins. My tip when doing wiring - look behind every one as you never know what might be loose or even broken)

the rear wiper motor (at the back of the car). Verify it has a four pin connector with the following wires
LT GRN/BLK
BLK
GRN
GRN/BLK

To see if your wiper motor is working, apply 12V to the GRN/BLK pin whilst EARTHing the BLK pin on the motor. If the wiper motor is OK it should start up.
Do a CONTINUITY test from the rear wiper motor on the Lt GRN/BLK, the GRN and the GRN/BLK wires from the ST4 plug.

If you can verify these things you will be closer to solving the issue and we'll at least know what you are working with. Look for any taped-up plugs in the back of the car (rear of the harness) as Mark suggested.

I have another thought. Check about half way down the rear harness about level with the rear wheel arch behind the driver. Honda placed a large GREY junction plug there (20 pins) that gathers up all the wires and sends them to the rear (lights, wipers, stop, etc). Can you locate that plug and check it for the necessary wires - Lt GRN, GRN. GRN/BLK, etc. You may only need to run missing wires from there as my thinking would be that the harness would be the same up to that point.

LT GRN/BLK is pin on top row, at one end (I'm not giving pin #s as my labelling scheme is different to Hondas)
there are two GRN pins - pin next to above, which, if Honda are consistent, will be the GRN you are looking for, and another GRN two pins across from that
there are two GRN/BLK pins - again I'm assuming consistency so the GRN/BLK next to the GRN (next to the LT GRN/BLK) is the wire you're looking for. The other is at the opposite end on the top row.

Let us know.

OOPS, as for painting the bumper.

Light sand to make everything smooth.
A couple of light undercoats with PLASTIC primer
Sand smooth, when you are satisfied,
two/three coats of normal colour
clear if required
buff
polish

Peter

[hmetro24]

The wiper motor is working, seems the switch is Dead, I have all wires to the back.Gn/blk is getting 12volt to the rear wiper plug. so how can i show the mechanic that the wiper is working with out changing the switch?
Took me about 5 hours to change trailer arm bushes, both sides(First time always hard).Also changed springs to kings on my way( which saved me some time)

[jdm_b16a]

The wiper motor is working, seems the switch is Dead, I have all wires to the back.Gn/blk is getting 12volt to the rear wiper plug. so how can i show the mechanic that the wiper is working with out changing the switch?

Did you check for a good EARTH? The wiper motor is activated by the switch on the steering column. It has constant 12V. When you turn the switch, you make an EARTH contact and the wiper starts. So you say you have PWR but just check your EARTH. It should be a ring tab in the middle of the back of the car.

However,

If it is the switch on the steering column, then

1. Remove the steering wheel (centre badge out, big 19mm nut on column)
2. Unclip all four plugs (two on either side)
3. Take the two screws out of either side of the indicator stalk and remove the stalk
4. You can now either replace the whole stalk, or,
5. Pop out the bad module (they are held on by some small tabs) and replace it
6. Reassemble

Job done.

Peter

[hmetro24]

Did you check for a good EARTH? The wiper motor is activated by the switch on the steering column. It has constant 12V. When you turn the switch, you make an EARTH contact and the wiper starts. So you say you have PWR but just check your EARTH. It should be a ring tab in the middle of the back of the car.

However,

If it is the switch on the steering column, then

1. Remove the steering wheel (centre badge out, big 19mm nut on column)
2. Unclip all four plugs (two on either side)
3. Take the two screws out of either side of the indicator stalk and remove the stalk
4. You can now either replace the whole stalk, or,
5. Pop out the bad module (they are held on by some small tabs) and replace it
6. Reassemble

Job done.

Peter
MMMMMM thanks mate, but i know how to replace it, what i meant is. how can i make it working with out changing the switch.Because when i finish rwc, i will take it out.

[jdm_b16a]

OK. I understand. Unfortunately with that in mind you're on your own. It's probably easier to do what I mentioned than rig up a wire with a switch on the dash, even temporarily.

Unless your mechanic is willing to take you're word for it that it works!!!

Peter

[hmetro24]

Finished from the car, fixed everything on it, got RWC. Tomorrow Vic Road. The problem with the Wiper was it is missing 1 wire from under-dash plug to the middle of the car.Working perfect now.
Paint time is coming.
I would like to thanks the first car owner who sold me the shitty first car, which encourage me to fix it up, get some experience and knowledge Repairingit. than thanks myself for buying another dead car and bring it back to life.
Thanks for every one in this thread who helped me sorting all the problem to finish the car. JDM-B16a, markismaximus,jdmEG5,dorikin and others( sorry if i missed your names)

Rep Up from me guys, cheers everyone

[jdmEG5]

Good to hear man! Well done

[hmetro24]

http://img543.imageshack.us/img543/7215/01072011373.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/543/01072011373.jpg/)- ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/2940/01072011370.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/844/01072011370.jpg/)
Polished theHood (http://imageshack.us/g/844/01072011370.jpg/)

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/952/01072011372.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/32/01072011372.jpg/)




http://img825.imageshack.us/img825/8453/19062011354.jpg
http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/2308/22042011301.jpg
http://img828.imageshack.us/img828/3213/19062011355.jpg



Still have to paint bumpers/ mirrors :| . gonna leave wheels for sometime and get a set later

[jdmEG5]

So the car is running now yeah?

haha i can see tools!

I think i still have screws/nuts/bolts lying underneath my carpet from my conversion LOL

[hmetro24]

So the car is running now yeah?

haha i can see tools!

I think i still have screws/nuts/bolts lying underneath my carpet from my conversion LOL
Hahhah, these are old pics, everything on place at the moment.Also me i have couple of screws,nuts,and bolt. I dunno where they goes. Just got everything done,registered the engine to the car, installed red simota intake filter, i got it for 5$ :D..The engine breather better, since the Oem intake had no where to breath because this chassis does not have a hole where the intake tube goes down beside the bumper.Also installed n* power header i had before. This engine have some power compared to d15b4, i can see 7800 7900 rpm.

[jdmEG5]

Hahhah, these are old pics, everything on place at the moment.Also me i have couple of screws,nuts,and bolt. I dunno where they goes. Just got everything done,registered the engine to the car, installed red simota intake filter, i got it for 5$ :D..The engine breather better, since the Oem intake had no where to breath because this chassis does not have a hole where the intake tube goes down beside the bumper.Also installed n* power header i had before. This engine have some power compared to d15b4, i can see 7800 7900 rpm.

damn right about power mate! I actually cut mine out, the hole for the air box. The one we have (on our GL's) the material is actually pretty thin and not that hard to cut out.. I drilled mine on the edge, big enough to fit a hacksaw blade and cut around it. Now i can use stock air box or cai :D

post pics of the car now!

Edit -

Here i did mine a while back ago - You can Sorta see it :p

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/227698_10150173663032979_535517978_6879545_1481090 _n.jpg

[hmetro24]

damn right about power mate! I actually cut mine out, the hole for the air box. The one we have (on our GL's) the material is actually pretty thin and not that hard to cut out.. I drilled mine on the edge, big enough to fit a hacksaw blade and cut around it. Now i can use stock air box or cai :D

post pics of the car now!
I do not have tools, and it is cold weather at the moment, so it is not a big deal with the hot air.

[jdmEG5]

I do not have tools, and it is cold weather at the moment, so it is not a big deal with the hot air.

You serious man? haha you have tools to put a motor in but dont have tools to cut something?

Well just saying for future reference :)

[hmetro24]

You serious man? haha you have tools to put a motor in but dont have tools to cut something?

Well just saying for future reference :)
Yes man, I am international student in Australia, so i do not want to start buying and sell them if i wanna leave the country.Also I do not have my own storage. All the tools now is in the car. while i was doing the swap, I was putting everything in the car , seats,dashboard,carpet and taking everything out when i wanna work on the car :|

[hmetro24]

I painted Front Bumper today, Had to do better Job but much better than before
http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/6118/beforezp.jpg
http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/2516/before2x.jpg
http://img838.imageshack.us/img838/369/after1t.jpg
http://img845.imageshack.us/img845/6639/after2.jpg