[CL9] Engine ratteling noise on initial application of accelerator pedal

[pilotb777_300]

Hey guys,

I just bought a Used 05 Euro manual with 65K on the clock and I've come by a small issue that I was hoping I can get some help with.
I noticed after a few drives of the car that when I initiall hit the accelerator to build up revs I get a metalic kinda ratteling noise from under the bonnet somewhere. This happens when idle and when initially changing from first to second gear.. after the revs build up I dont hear anything unusual after that. It just seems to occur from idle when I quickly hit the gas pedal. Car runs and pulls fine. Its def not pinging as I have had a car which pinged before and its not the same sound. I think it may be the chain tensioner or something just ratelling somwhere near the engine... any ideas ? I'm hoping its not the chain tensioner and listening to some youtube clips, timing chain noise seem to be a lot louder and consistent throughout the rev range... which this isnt. Has anyone had a similar problem ?

Cheers

[opilot87]

Are you sure its not the bonnet rattling? I had this issue on my car I recently bought. Usually when letting out the clutch and the revs got to low, you couldn't feel the car or engine shake but the bonnet certainly did. Turns out there are two rubber stops that the bonnet sits on, open the bonnet and turns these counter-clockwise and they will lift up, tightening up the bonnet. Might be worth a try?

Ollie

[SPQR]

I think my car has the same. I took it to my local Honda dealer last Friday and they said that the left front shock absorber was leaking oil and the noise comes from the shock absorber as the front of the car lifts on take-off from stop. It makes a 'grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr' type rattling sound.

[Fredoops]

Go to a dealer and have them check it out, could be a range of issues

Ps: just having a browse at the euro forum... seems everyone's CL9 is falling apart one way or another lol

[SPQR]

^^^ I have a tendency to agree with that last statement. The magic number for the Euro appears to be: sell before 6 years.

So far this year, I have had to replace the alternator. Last week, the dealer told me that the shock absorbers that were replaced under warranty one and a half years ago also need to be replaced and that it also needs a new power steering pump. Then last Tuesday I was told that it needs a new starter motor!!! That's over $4,000 worth if I was to buy the parts in Australia.

The prices I got from the USA are substantially less. Why are we being ripped off so massively by Honda OZ?

[pilotb777_300]

Thanks for the response guys... the noise seems to come and go.. I cant pin point yet where exactly it is but I dont think its internally in the engine anymore. I'm thinking something is lose maybe in the exhaust or somewhere around the engine block in the engine bay. It seems to rattle under certain engine frequency which I think happens low down while initially accelerating. Anyways I'm gonna keep an eye on it for a few more weeks and see if it gets better or worse.

As far as the accord euro falling apart.. I disagree with that. I've been through a BMW 318 to a BMW 330ci to a accord euro (older one 2003) to a MAZDA 3 MPS to an an S2000 and now back to the euro again... I can honestly say out of all the cars I've driven the Euro is by far the best. Every car is going to have issues as it gets older. I think the accord holds up way better than some of the other german cars I've had... and if u think 4000 dollars is bad, try visiting a BMW dealer ship once in a while... they'll make ur 4K look like pocket change !

[SPQR]

I just had a look at the ACCC compulsory recall website:

The last BMW recall was in 2006. http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/952885

Benz has by far the most recalls: http://www.recalls.gov.au/content/index.phtml/itemId/952860 But maybe they just care more and do a recall whereas other brand will try to hide a problem.

Audi's last recall was in 2009.

Mazda on par with Honda.

Toyota has lots of recalls.

Nissan slightly more than Mazda.

VW's last recall was in 2007.

But yes, German parts are expensive.

[Fredoops]

But yes, German parts are expensive.

Expansive, yes, but not that much more expansive. Dunno about BMW, but VAG parts are only on average 10-20% more than Honda at the dealer (apart from fluid/oils, sine VAG uses full synthetic based fluid instead of Dino based Honda fluid)

And if you eBay parts from USA the difference is even narrower.

[sodhi90]

Check your automatic belt tensioner for the drive belts in the car they rattles at idle and certain rpm when worn out.

[pilotb777_300]

Check your automatic belt tensioner for the drive belts in the car they rattles at idle and certain rpm when worn out.

hmmm how do I check if its worn out ? would it be clearly visible ? I was actually about to get a long screw driver and use it as a bit of a stethescope on everything that is driven by the drive belt to see if any bearing etc.. are worn out and ratteling ! I just have to find someone to rev the car while I'm trying to listen for the noise

[buddah51au]

^^^ I have a tendency to agree with that last statement. The magic number for the Euro appears to be: sell before 6 years.

So far this year, I have had to replace the alternator. Last week, the dealer told me that the shock absorbers that were replaced under warranty one and a half years ago also need to be replaced and that it also needs a new power steering pump. Then last Tuesday I was told that it needs a new starter motor!!! That's over $4,000 worth if I was to buy the parts in Australia.

The prices I got from the USA are substantially less. Why are we being ripped off so massively by Honda OZ?

I can't agree with you on that 0ne SPQR, it is impossible to generalise on a use by date on any car going by age and / or milage as no 2 cars are treated the same by there individual owners. Some cars are serviced more frequently that others (preventative maintenance is a big deal) Is it a city or a country car? A city car will incur a lot more engine / gearbox / brake wear over a given period or than a country car of the same milage. On the other hand a country car will incur more wear on suspension components over a similar milage due to the fact it it generally used at higher speeds on rougher roads.

In your case for example you mentioned an alternator - they do not last indefinitely and would do a lot of work over a 6 year period.

Shock absorbers can fail at any time depending on the quality of the product, I have even seen premature failure of Koni's.

Power Steering pumps - look at the number of revolutions it would have done over a 6 year period, they don't last forever. Has it run low on fluid at any time? this would greatly reduce it's lifespan.

Starter Motor - in general terms a starter motor has a set number of uses or engagements (at any time has someone tried to engage the starter with the engine already running?)

The above items can fail at any time on any car, regardless of make. All of the above items would also be supplied by a 3rd party (They wouldn't be manufactured by the Car Company)

The Alternator / Starter & possibly the Power Steering Pump should be able to be reconditioned by a 3rd party company. Most Auto electricians will overhaul Alternators & Starters ..... that is their bread & butter. Some power steering pumps can also be rebuilt, all at a fraction of the replacement cost.

[sodhi90]

hmmm how do I check if its worn out ? would it be clearly visible ? I was actually about to get a long screw driver and use it as a bit of a stethescope on everything that is driven by the drive belt to see if any bearing etc.. are worn out and ratteling ! I just have to find someone to rev the car while I'm trying to listen for the noise

u will notice the tensioner will be quiet chattery and be shaking alot more than usual, other than thay i can try the screwdrive technique u mentioned.


I also had to replace an alternator last yr in my 04 CL9 :S

[xiang]

I'm getting the same metallic rattle, for me it tends to come in around the 2k rev mark. Still can't pin point it too.

[g3vtir]

Have you checked if there is a small rock or pebble stuck under the cat converter metal protective plate?

I had the same sound on my integra and I narrowed it down to that. I took off the plate and there were a few rocks in there.

Sent from my GT-I9000 using Tapatalk

[dtngo]

Bit of a bump here...

My car started making a similar noise. It only happened a couple weeks ago and occurred at certain rpms - 1100, 1500, 1900rpm, but now happens all the way up to 2000rpm. I took it to Hanny's and they diagnosed it as a noisy alternator bearing. The didn't have anything available to replace it so I'm bringing it back this week to change the bearing. I hope that's all it is and will update when it's sorted.

Thought I'd add this for future searches.

[aaronng]

hmmm how do I check if its worn out ? would it be clearly visible ? I was actually about to get a long screw driver and use it as a bit of a stethescope on everything that is driven by the drive belt to see if any bearing etc.. are worn out and ratteling ! I just have to find someone to rev the car while I'm trying to listen for the noise

Look straight down behind the power steering pump. You'll see a cylindrical section (arm) that has the symbol of a rectangle and a square next to each other and a triangle pointing at them. The triangle is an arrow of sorts. If it points to the small square, then the belt is worn. If it points in between everything is fine. If it points way up before the large rectangle, then your belt is too short. If at idle you see the triangle bouncing around, that means the belt tensioner needs to be replaced.

[jono_l]

If at idle you see the triangle bouncing around, that means the belt tensioner needs to be replaced.

For those of you planning to replace the tensioner, don't bother with Honda. I was just quoted $294 for the tensioner, and $142 for the drive belt (supply only). Instead, I've ordered the same (genuine) parts from oemacuraparts.com; $34USD for the belt, $88USD for the tensioner, and $52USD for shipping. This comes out to roughly $160AUD with our current exchange rate, which is a hell lot cheaper than the ~$436 it would cost locally!

Mine's just gone rattley and bounces around - only occurs at idle in gear though.

[dtngo]

Another update:

Hanny's tried another alternator bearing, which didn't fix the issue. Turned out to be the water pump which they replaced the following week for $407inc GST. Car is nice and quiet again :)