Clutch issue?

[gamgam]

Hey guys, so I'm having an issue with what I think is to do with my clutch and its wear.

I've had the car for over a year now and it's close to 160,000 kms.

The problem is that I'm having trouble engaging gears from a stationary position, especially reverse after a cold start. The clutch's friction point seems to be lower down and the pedal moves freely a fair bit more than it used to before it feels like I'm engaging any kind of hydraulic system.

I checked the clutch fluid and notice that it was down quite a bit, about 2 inches below its normal level (hopefully not due to a leak). I topped it up with some dot4 fluid today but the pedal remains quite loose.

Does anyone have any idea what's going on?

[Clio]

Clutch system shouldn't use fluid, in my opinion likely a leak in your clutch slave and / or master cylinders. I just replaced both of mine new oem Honda parts for grand total of $220. If you're not handy with a spanner probably take a mechanic around an hour ish of labour so not too expensive.

[zhong]

^ What he said, it most likely be the clutch slave leaking somewhere.. Replace it, it's cheap and my oh my does it do a difference. While your doing that, it's wise for you to have a look at the fork pin joint thingy - make sure it is smooth as can be. If you do a search, you can probably find DIYs to do all of this.

[gamgam]

I've read a lot about slave/master cylinder issues. Assuming it's a common s2k problem. Clio, did you or zhong get your parts from honda or did you source them from somewhere else (if so, where?). I'll do some trolling on s2ki and figure out if I can DIY it.

[gamgam]

...And I thought that the system will not use fluid but because the clutch wears the amount of fluid will decrease, am I wrong?

[Clio]

Yes you're correct fluid will naturally reduce the reservoir level with clutch wear but this will be minimal over time. Given your large drop in fluid and difficulty engaging gears I suspect this is your problem. It is normal for these seals to leak over time on any car.

[gamgam]

Oh ok, I'm beginning to assume that there is a leak in the slave and/or master from reading up on s2ki, but I don't have any leaks near my actual clutch pedal :S.

[Clio]

Slave cylinder is at the other end of the line, it's in the vicinity behind passenger front wheel near bellhousing. If you're checking yourself make sure vehicle is supported properly - don't want to be crushed under the car - get a mechanic to look at if unsure.

[gamgam]

Problem solved, took it to Hanny's in Smithfield. Got the Clutch master cylinder replaced which was the issue, feels like new now. These guys did it for $132 which is a great price, if you look up the cost for parts. Thanks again for the help Clio.

[JN7]

anyone know where to get it done in Melbourne? (parts also). just called Honda they said 320.. suprise suprise

[zhong]

Order genuine from america, and do it yourself - it'll take you 45mins tops.

If I remember correctly, it's 2 10mm nuts, a butterfly clip/pin, 8mm nut and some elbow grease. Mark the positions of the nuts/pedal/etc then undo everything, push it through making sure it doesn't spill as it will ruin your paint. Reverse the undoing, best to get second person to hold the actual master into place, as it's a bit hard to line up and manuveur on your own. Once all is bolted back, gravity-bleed the clutch, pump it until the pedal is hard. Test your gears will shift correctly. That's all folks!

[JN7]

how do I order from America? I called Honda for the part alone and it was 250.

[zhong]

Just search it on ebay, make sure it's genuine NISSIN. You shouldn't have any dramas, otherwise google/s2ki the websites you can purchase directly from.

[AusS2000]

http://www.cflhonda.com/splash/index.cfm?siteid=215502

They ship international.

[phatty]

Check if your clutch pedal is leaking from underneath. Also check your floor mats see if theres any fluid on it. If there is and your clutch is getting shorter, you'll definitely need a new clutch master cylinder. Sooner or later all the fluid will come out and there will be no way you can shift. No matter how hard you push the clutch in (probably be soft by the time all the fluid is out) , and try to push the shifter into gear it wont go in.

[JN7]

there's no fluids but the thread starter had none so mine might be in the same boat as his.

[JN7]

so do I go about replacing the Slave or master cylinder?

[gamgam]

For me it was just the master that needed replacing.

[Clio]

It could be either leaking.... figured I'd replace both of mine with peace of mind unlikely to give any troubles for a long time

[JN7]

are the parts on that website genuine Honda?

[AusS2000]

Yup, or Nissin, which is what Honda use for brake products.

[JN7]

thanks chief

[JN7]

Anyone know a place in Melbourne that'll do the slave and master cylinder for a good price? Got quoted 230 for labour

[AusS2000]

That's why it pays to do it yourself.

[JN7]

my mates said that master cylinder is easy to do but not sure about the slave.. any comments? i just got a quote from another place.. 150 for both slave and master clyinder..

[AusS2000]

Slave is pretty easy too as long as you don't mind jacking up the car and sliding under it. Make sure you put it on jack stands before going under.

[JN7]

all just a few bolts?

[AusS2000]

Pretty much.

[JN7]

thanks again! hopefully the parts come very soon!
I'm hoping when I replace them both that the notchy gear changing goes away..

[Clio]

Make sure to adjust the freeplay out of lever between pedal and master cylinder when you replace

[JN7]

As in bleed the clutch or is that something completely different? Do you think my notchy gear changing is cos of either the slave/master?

[Clio]

The top of the clutch pedal attaches to a metal rod (which is part of the master clutch cylinder), the rod is threaded and turning it will lengthen or shorten it. it should be turned such that when you touch the ctuch pedal there is no free play. there is a good article on this on s2ki if you want to refer to. When you're changing clutch components in addition to bleeding this will benefit you.

[gamgam]

For me some of my notchyness went away, but not completely. Hoping to change the transmission fluid soon cos I've read that does the trick.

[JN7]

I shouldve changed my transmission oil first then!
what oil are you gonna use and where from?

to clio: so I just need to keep playing with the thread and one of the way should get rid of the freeplay?

[JN7]

lol, i just looked at the previous owner's receipts of the services he's taken..
on one of the invoices, it notes "clutch slave cylinder moist - monitor". i'm guessing it's the slave then :)

[gamgam]

I've forgotten exactly what it's called but if you look at some older threads some ppl recommend purple something transmission fluid (I think).

[AusS2000]

Royal Purple.

[Clio]

Won't be transmission fluid!

[JN7]

hehe I'll just wait to get my Slave and cmc and then go from there! thanks guys

[mike15h]

ive just had mine replace and my car only did 90000 kms, i bought a second hand one from hondwreck in victoria, and what a difference it made, i didnt realise i had a problem with it until it went to honda.

[JN7]

got my gear today..
got dot 3 brake fluid.. where does that go?

[Clio]

brake fluid = clutch fluid

[JN7]

thanks! would've got started on it today but melbourne's weather is fugs atm :(

[lzybum]

does it matter whether the fluid for clutch is dot3 or dot4?
are u still able to use oem honda brake fluid (which is dot4 i think?) for the clutch?

[gamgam]

does it matter whether the fluid for clutch is dot3 or dot4?
are u still able to use oem honda brake fluid (which is dot4 i think?) for the clutch?

Yeah from what I've read on s2ki dot4 is fine to be used in the clutch fluid because the brake and clutch fluid are the same.

[JN7]

so dot 3 is okay to use also?

[JN7]

how on earth do you remove the clip that's holding the rod and pedal together?

[AusS2000]

You mean this one:
http://s2000.byteserve.com.au/images/clutchpedal.png

[JN7]

i didn't even see the lock pin.. i gave up.
i'll have a look at this picture when i get it a shot tomorrow.
bolts are a bit hard to remove as well because their so far in

[zhong]

If there isn't a lock pin, your rod will just slide out...

Honda says PULL it, but I say Twist it with pliers.. Slides out quite easily..

And a SET of deep sockets will help you alot here, just to break the torque, then using ur fingers would be enough to spin them off..

If you a big guy, I suggest removing your seat (it's alot easier than you think - 4 bolts, 2x14mm fronts and 2x12mm at the back from memory).

Goodluck!