Gearbox question

[dciisir]

I was wondering if anyone knows if the components inside the gearbox for an EK4 / EM1 is the same as EK9 / DC2R ? Not so much the gear ratio / LSD but rather the material that the parts are made of ? Would the components / gear inside the ITR gearbox be stronger than those of the EK4 / EM1 ?

[davidvtec]

Gearbox components/gears are pretty much all the same, none stronger than the other. I'm pretty sure..

[TheSaint]

the machining process may have a finer tolerance - but the materials used would all be the same

[dougie_504]

I was wondering if anyone knows if the components inside the gearbox for an EK4 / EM1 is the same as EK9 / DC2R ? Not so much the gear ratio / LSD but rather the material that the parts are made of ? Would the components / gear inside the ITR gearbox be stronger than those of the EK4 / EM1 ?


If you're interested in stronger GBox internals I would do research into aftermarket options like 'Synchrotech'.

[Spoon SiRG]

Gearbox components/gears are pretty much all the same, none stronger than the other. I'm pretty sure..

Wrong.

Gen 1 EF/DA B16A Cable Type Gearbox has the weakest internals; most prone to crunching.

Gen 2 EG/EK/EM B16A Hydro Type Gearbox are improved versions of above.

B16B CTR, B18C VTiR & ITR have the strongest internals (Differential & Synchronizers)

[davidvtec]

Wrong.

Gen 1 EF/DA B16A Cable Type Gearbox has the weakest internals; most prone to crunching.

Gen 2 EG/EK/EM B16A Hydro Type Gearbox are improved versions of above.

B16B CTR, B18C VTiR & ITR have the strongest internals (Differential & Synchronizers)

Thanks for clearin that up +1

[dougie_504]

Wrong.

Gen 1 EF/DA B16A Cable Type Gearbox has the weakest internals; most prone to crunching.

Gen 2 EG/EK/EM B16A Hydro Type Gearbox are improved versions of above.

B16B CTR, B18C VTiR & ITR have the strongest internals (Differential & Synchronizers)


Just curious where did you get this information?

[amant02]

Wrong.

Gen 1 EF/DA B16A Cable Type Gearbox has the weakest internals; most prone to crunching.

Gen 2 EG/EK/EM B16A Hydro Type Gearbox are improved versions of above.

B16B CTR, B18C VTiR & ITR have the strongest internals (Differential & Synchronizers)


So i did the correct move to upgrading to the b18c gearbox on my b16a2? It feel likes the gears are longer, but it dosnt throw me back wen vtec engages like it used too on the b16a2 gearbox.

[mugen_ctr]

So i did the correct move to upgrading to the b18c gearbox on my b16a2? It feel likes the gears are longer, but it dosnt throw me back wen vtec engages like it used too on the b16a2 gearbox.

B18c has longer gear ratio, unlike b16 shorter

Should have kept the b16a2 gearbox, theres a reason why its short, it keeps the car in power band around the track, the only thing the b18c gearbox has done is reduce ur fuel an made ur car slower

[dciisir]

Yeah it looks like the CTR / ITR gearboxes have stronger internals. I found a very informative article about the Honda gearboxes.. Here's the link


http://hondaswap.com/swap-articles/b-series-transmission-guide-29099/

[TheSaint]

So i did the correct move to upgrading to the b18c gearbox on my b16a2? It feel likes the gears are longer, but it dosnt throw me back wen vtec engages like it used too on the b16a2 gearbox.

erm ... no - you would have gone backwards - ur car will now be slower but u will have better fuel economy

most guys with B18c (VTIR) will put the B16a2 box on as an upgrade

[DC2-PWR]

b18cr/c7 1st - 4th - 5th gears have shorter gear ratios than the B16A gearbox
overall cr/c7 have shorter gear ratios

reason why b16a have shorter ratios is because b16a don't have good torque. and those short gear ratios make it keep up. well sort of lol.

every website they all have different numbers for gearbox ratios so dont quote me on this. but itr gearbox have shorter ratios :thumbsup:

[amant02]

fml, i even let that homo mechanic keep my b16a2 gearbox, didnt wanna get my interior dirty hahaha.

Planning to upgrade to b18cr within few months.

[mugen_ctr]

and with regards to strength, unless ur running more than double or triple the power of the standard power, there's no real worries about the gearbox breaking, but more so the syncros based on the driving style

I cant remember, but i think usually first of the drive train to let go is the clutch, than gearbox syncros, gearbox gears than drive shafts an lastly diff, but thats the assumption

[dougie_504]

fml, i even let that homo mechanic keep my b16a2 gearbox, didnt wanna get my interior dirty hahaha.

Planning to upgrade to b18cr within few months.


Holy crap dude are you serious? I see these things selling for $600-900 all the time! Can't you get it back?

[TheSaint]

http://www.adelekirby.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/DoubleFacePalm.jpg

[Stcmon]

u cudve donated that gearbox to me!

[dougie_504]

Similar thing happened to my friend with his R33 GTST. Mechanic told him it wasn't worth keeping because it was so 'screwed' but I think it was pretty much a clutch issue. Charged my friend $2500 + old GBox for another 2nd had GBox + swap costs. Total rip.

[EK1 Civic]

Probably unrelated but i didnt wanna start another thread for a question i want clarified. Doing a full service on my car on wednesday and i wanted to ask something about a manual transmission flush. Basically after pouring the old tranny fluid out. I should fill it up with a cheap fluid since im gonna pour this thing out in a day to replace with honda mtf. What cheap fluid can i source that will work on a ek civic. I went to supercheap and they wanted $42 bucks for fluid that im gonna pour out in a day =/

[TheSaint]

have you tried places like bigW etc
if its only for a flush it doesnt really matter what it is

you could be a hella baller and use the honda MTF as a flush and than buy some NEO HD for running fluid =p

[EK1 Civic]

Well i havent rly looked at bigw and i dont wanna buy the wrong fluid LOL. Ill go check 2morro. And i dont wanna be hella baller xD. Not revving the shit outa it all the time. Think i trash the car once a week to give it a run so getting neo hd might be useless =/

The guy showed me Castrol VMX 80 Transaxle & Manual Transmission Fluid. So i should be looking for 80w fluid thats cheap to be flushed down?

[TheSaint]

70 or 80 will be ok - lighter syntheric oil will flush better than heavier mineral oil etc

[dougie_504]

Well i havent rly looked at bigw and i dont wanna buy the wrong fluid LOL. Ill go check 2morro. And i dont wanna be hella baller xD. Not revving the shit outa it all the time. Think i trash the car once a week to give it a run so getting neo hd might be useless =/

The guy showed me Castrol VMX 80 Transaxle & Manual Transmission Fluid. So i should be looking for 80w fluid thats cheap to be flushed down?


Pretty sure VMX80 is supposed to be their special oil for cold-starts and stiff shifting GBox's. I wouldn't say it's the cheapest option.

I didn't bother to flush it out mate. But I suppose it can't hurt too much?

[EK1 Civic]

Well it hasnt been changed since i owned it for a year. Who knows when it was previously changed by the previous owner. I rather flush it and get rid of the junk once, then contimate good fluid and make it dirty. Just looking for some cheap ass fluid to pour in for a day LOL =.="

[amant02]

Ye he told me same thing, i trusted that kunt. Feel like burning his workshop down atm.

[TheSaint]

why not just go back and question the whole thing - ask for the gearbox back?

[aaronng]

Personally, I'd replace it with MTF now, drive around for a few months and then change it again with MTF. Honda's MTF is 75w80, so trying to find an aftermarket one with the same viscosity can be a challenge. Most cheap ones out there are 75w90 which is one grade thicker than Honda spec.