EF9 B16 Swap into DA6 LS Integra.. Progress and Problems...

[VT3C]

hi Guys,

Been doing a swap of a GEN1 B16 from an EF9 Frontcut into an Aussie DA6 LS Integra as the B18A1's head decided to corrode through itself LOL.

EF9 Front Cut:

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/179863_10150092459787066_509717065_6640875_6595494 _n.jpg

http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/180464_10150092478867066_509717065_6640944_1606039 _n.jpg

Teggy minus B18A:
http://a4.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/197177_10150113157772066_509717065_6831222_4579858 _n.jpg

B16 FINALLY out and waiting to go into the Teggy Engine Bay:
http://a1.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc6/205435_10150146283412066_509717065_6918674_2613893 _n.jpg

Just wondering it there may be any compatibility problems you guys may have experienced before and we've hit a couple of small hurdles along the way and I will ask these questions below.. stay tuned there's bound to be more :)

1. Using a 2m long box-section of steel tubing, we snapped 2 Ratchets, shattered 2 Breaker bars and bent another Chrome Vanadium (slide) Breaker Bar into an S-bend etc.. we CAN NOT get the Axle nut off on the Passenger Side of the EF9 frontcut. We ended up removing the Complete Suspension and Brake asssembly in order to pull the shaft from trh gearbox end but we need to re-use that axle so we need to get the nut off. Unfortunately the assembly ios off the car so we cant apply too much torque to the nut but we can alwasy put it back onto the car in order to get the nut off.. ANY IDEAS HOW TO GET IT OFF ? will a blow-torch help ??

2. Mounts, apparently we retain the Passenger side mount from trh B18 but use the rest of the EF9 mounts for the rest ?

3. The EF9 has an electronic Speed Sensor where the DA6 is mechanical /non-electronic. Apparently it is possible to convert the Electronic version to use all of the non-electronic sensor but will this affect the speedo etc ?

no doubt we will have some more problems as the swap progresses.. which I will post in here also.. Appreciate any help and advice you guys can offer :)

- Bede

[Bludger]

Just wondering it there may be any compatibility problems you guys may have experienced before and we've hit a couple of small hurdles along the way and I will ask these questions below.. stay tuned there's bound to be more :)
Shouldn't be, both are B series motors. Should just bolt in.


1. Using a 2m long box-section of steel tubing, we snapped 2 Ratchets, shattered 2 Breaker bars and bent another Chrome Vanadium (slide) Breaker Bar into an S-bend etc.. we CAN NOT get the Axle nut off on the Passenger Side of the EF9 frontcut. We ended up removing the Complete Suspension and Brake asssembly in order to pull the shaft from trh gearbox end but we need to re-use that axle so we need to get the nut off. Unfortunately the assembly ios off the car so we cant apply too much torque to the nut but we can alwasy put it back onto the car in order to get the nut off.. ANY IDEAS HOW TO GET IT OFF ? will a blow-torch help ??
Get yourself one of these.
3/4 drive rattle gun
http://i164.photobucket.com/albums/u19/bau_fug/P1010127.jpg


2. Mounts, apparently we retain the Passenger side mount from trh B18 but use the rest of the EF9 mounts for the rest ?
You have 2 sets of mounts, just use the best condition one that fits.


3. The EF9 has an electronic Speed Sensor where the DA6 is mechanical /non-electronic. Apparently it is possible to convert the Electronic version to use all of the non-electronic sensor but will this affect the speedo etc ?
Get a VSS from a cable vss GB, maybe try swapping your old b18a vss over.

no doubt we will have some more problems as the swap progresses.. which I will post in here also.. Appreciate any help and advice you guys can offer :)

- BedeYour car is a DA9, not DA6.

If it was a DA6 it would already have a b16a already.

good luck

[na-118]

axle nut - get a nut cracker, crack the nut and purchase a new one
wd-40 soaked, hammer and chisel and break the nut replace it
you must be using shit tools for ratchets and breaker bars to break and bend LMAO

[trism]

Not really man, especially if theyre using a 2m long breaker bar.

thats a LOT of torque.

Ive broken a snap on slide breaker bar before doing something like this. just snapped.

[na-118]

snap on isn't everything, i only own one snap on tool and its a spark plug gapping tool.

just smash it off if you tried everything else, that's odd how i've used my breaker bar for the last 4 years with bars pipes everything on it abused as well,, on heavy machinery and equipment,, let alone a axle nut on a car

[Bludger]

The old Australian made Sidchrome were the best:p

[bennjamin]

axle nuts should be a doddle. Make sure you have pulled out the stake - with a flat head screwdriver etc. If this sits in the driveshaft groove it aint budging ! After....all you do is turn the steering wheel full lock TO THE LEFT and stand on the brakes. Get a mate to place a breaker bar and a 32mm socket piece on the hubnut -make sure its parallel to the ground and place a decent amount of weight on it for leverage. Even step on it gradually. Should crack easily

[dorikin]

If its off the car just take the driveshaft and hub to your local mechanic

[VT3C]

thanks for the posts guys !!


Your car is a DA9, not DA6.

If it was a DA6 it would already have a b16a already.

good luck

Is my mate's Integra, I am an EG nut.. DA6/DA9.. i always get those 2 mixed up..
We will try and adapt the B18A VSS.

we've been doing these axle nuts for like 10 years now.. had some doozies but this one is just insane !



axle nut - get a nut cracker, crack the nut and purchase a new one
wd-40 soaked, hammer and chisel and break the nut replace it
you must be using shit tools for ratchets and breaker bars to break and bend LMAO

We werent using Snap-On, they were just Repco specials LOL but I never buy the CHEAPO tools.. these were mid range.. then we tried anything they had.. the First 2 breaker bars were like $20 each from Supercheap and then the other one was $50 from Repco (was the best one they had) and the best one was the slide bar which was only $9 !!

even though there was no visual corrosion etc, the nut WAS soaked in WD40 and we removed the key / stake / pulled out the squashed part of the nut.. and even belted the whole outter ring to create a flange.. so there was nothing holding the nut there except friction..


axle nuts should be a doddle. Make sure you have pulled out the stake - with a flat head screwdriver etc. If this sits in the driveshaft groove it aint budging ! After....all you do is turn the steering wheel full lock TO THE LEFT and stand on the brakes. Get a mate to place a breaker bar and a 32mm socket piece on the hubnut -make sure its parallel to the ground and place a decent amount of weight on it for leverage. Even step on it gradually. Should crack easily

yeah it SHOULD crack easilly but it wont.. and cant use the brakes as it's a front cut and has no brake line pressure.. just poked a screwdriver into the ventilation holes on the edge of the brake rotor and let it rest against the caliper :)

[shmivic]

its a fk this one.

over the weekend ill bring a blowtorch over and another few breaker bars

[markismaximus]

drill the corners of the nut out with a 5mm drill bit and hit it with a cold chisel until the nut cracks off.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/mx83cressida/ED%20Civic/EDSwap040.jpg

[VT3C]

aharrr.. might try this if blow torch doesnt help ;) good idea !!!

[string]

It only takes the slightest bit of that tab in there to screw you over. I bought a DA9 a couple of years back where the previous owner had hammered them in hard with a punch!! "Couldn't see" any offending material after some serious digging with a chisel but there was still enough to break some tools (a first, but not surprising considering my jack handle is an epic breaker bar). I thought I'd try drilling the nut to pieces instead of my temples... and it worked, resulting in a lovely mess like above :D

You'll definitely need to put it back on the car unless you have a demonic work bench and vice. If you have some penetrating lube then go to town with it --WD40 is better than nothing.

[string]

P.S. Perhaps try some OEM coolant? It's about ~$45 for 5L (varies between dealerships) and has tonnes of the active ingredients --apparently good for 3 years...

[VT3C]

UPDATE: Swapped all the A/c and P/s components accross to the B16, removed IM and TB and cleaned to as-new spec. Installed heat-shield IM Gasket etc. Painted Valve Cover also..

The water Passage pipe along the back of the block was very rusty on the outside, so I removed the one from trh back of the B18A as it looked perfect on the outside - after removal it revealed the INSIDE of the pipe was extremely corroded so decided to retain the B16's pipe.

Can anyone please confirm for me that a Gen1 B16's thermostat is same as a Gen2 B16 ? so do I order new OEM one for B16A2 or for a B18A ?

[VT3C]

UPDATE: Swapped all the A/c and P/s components accross to the B16, removed IM and TB and cleaned to as-new spec. Installed heat-shield IM Gasket etc. Painted Valve Cover also..

The water Passage pipe along the back of the block was very rusty on the outside, so I removed the one from trh back of the B18A as it looked perfect on the outside - after removal it revealed the INSIDE of the pipe was extremely corroded so decided to retain the B16's pipe.

Can anyone please confirm for me that a Gen1 B16's thermostat is same as a Gen2 B16 ? so do I order new OEM one for B16A2 or for a B18A ?

[shmivic]

where was my sms! yeah BG the thermostats are the same.