Current CU2 pricing

[seanneko]

Has anyone bought a new base model Euro recently? What's the general price/bargaining that you can do? Surely the upcoming facelift would mean that they're looking to start getting rid of current stock.

[Fredoops]

see this:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?137728-How-much-did-you-paid-for-your-2009-2010-Accord-Euro/page13

[WarrenM]

Has anyone bought a new base model Euro recently? What's the general price/bargaining that you can do? Surely the upcoming facelift would mean that they're looking to start getting rid of current stock.

How patient are you? Do you have a partner or friend who is even more patient than you? Here is how you buy a new car (or a used car). Find out the general going price. If you have a trade-in, find out what people are asking retail for an equivalent car (that is the hardest part, believe it or not).

Decide what you want added to your car. List the items in order of importance. Note that window tinting is NOT a Honda extra, it's a dealer extra, which means it is harder to negotiate on.

So here is an example:

I want a Honda Euro 2011 model, silver, 6-speed with reversing sensors, duckbill spoiler, sports steering wheel and window tinting
I have a 2003 Holden Commodore Acclaim with 115,000 on the clock in very presentable condition, which I think can be put on the retail market for $5000
I want to pay a changeover of $29,000. I'M READY TO SIGN TODAY, BUT I DON'T NEED TO BUY IN A HURRY!

Real-world, the valuer will come back with a wholesale value of $500 on the Commodore. That's right! $500. They'll offer to throw in the reversing sensors and the window tinting for 34K, but they can only offer you $500 for the trade.

That won't work for you. Discuss it with your friend. Ask him what he thinks. He should be pretty negative - $500 is way way too low and anyway the final price is way way too high and you haven't even discussed the other extras.

Tell them up front that you'd REALLY like to do a deal, but the deal they are offering is not even in the ballpark. Eventually, you are going to get them down to 31,000 with trade, maybe even with the extras.

Now you need to prove your metal. Your friend needs to remind you that you do not have 31,000. That $30,000 is beyond your means, and he or she is getting tired and has a headache (it has been at least two hours by now, possibly much more). You are likely the last buyers in the showroom. The sales manager has been called in by this time of course, and he is the one who has managed to squeeze one of their 2nd-hand dealers to take the Commodore for $3500 (which is probably $500 more than they knew they could offload it for in the beginning). Anyway the sales manager will reiterate that there is simply no way that he can give away the car for less than $31,000 with a trade like that. Now it's time to hit very gently in the gonads. Ask your friend to get a breath of fresh air. This makes it clear to the sales manager that you want to cave in and you don't want your friend around to stop you signing. It's at this point that you sit back down and say "I really want to sign on this, but I can only sign for $29,500 - it's that or I'll have to leave it for now". At that point it is $29,500 or NOTHING. YOU CANNOT BACK DOWN. If they offer you $30,000. You say something like "I really wish I could".

OK. At worst, you leave, with the absolute knowledge that you can get what you want for $31,000 say and you can go the following week to another showroom. At best, they will cave in at your price.

If you think this is pie in the sky, I went with a friend to buy him a basic Mazda 3 automatic, with exactly that trade-in above. Price was marked down from 24,990 plus on road costs to 2010 plate for 23990 on the road. We got a February 2011 car (just off the boat), in the colour and style he wanted, with a handful of extras, for $19,000 on the nose. Cash. No extras for them like finance kickbacks or insurance kickbacks or paint protection or whatever. And Mazda 3s are SELLING. But an extra sale is an extra sale. If you leave the premises, it is very unlikely they will get a sale from you. You cannot know what their sales figures are looking like - is this guy one car away from his bonus? - is the sales manager one or two cars away from his overriding bonus? - or a year-to-date milestone?

But ultimately, don't play the game if you aren't willing to put up when they accept your offer. Decide how much you are going to pay and believe that you will pay that figure.

[m3ntAL_l2]

see this:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?137728-How-much-did-you-paid-for-your-2009-2010-Accord-Euro/page13

thx. closed