help! CAI/SRI intake and Resonator question

[furythree]

Hi so this is kinda a repost from euro forums, but since its a generic question, i figured i might get a wider base of ppl to help answer by posting here. anyway:

im interested in installing a short ram intake. ive been googling all day about it. i still havent found a definitive answer about a coupla things:

1) does the resonator actually do anything important - if i remove it, does it improve airflow and/or let in more pollution?
2) SRI has issues of heat when idle, and is also illegal to have them uncovered (god knows why), so easier to install but have to make a cover for it. furthermore the internets say that when idle and not moving, its sucking in hot air, but people say once u start moving thats not an issue. is any of this true?
dont want CAI because i dont want to worry about rain getting in. and pain to install for a noob
3) is it a bad idea to remove resonator AND install a SRI? is the air still able to flow efficiently from the front into the airbox? otherwise might as well install a cai
4) I currently have a KNN panel air filter installed. Is there a way to install an intake and still make use of the filter? i understand that it will be double filtering, thereby restricting airflow. if thats the case, im happy to resell it and get better performance with a SRI

Lastly,
5) do intakes have to be branded? this is the most important question, cause even the noob forums has ppl reccommending getting an el cheapo pipe and fitting an apexi or knN pod. so if theres no issues with that, that means theres no issues in buying a replica intake right?

someone posted this thats made for the cu2 euro:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=320642380547&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

i messaged the seller and he said that its a replica of the injen one, which was what i was gunna get. but only half the price incl delivery and they can apparently spray it into whatever colour u like.
im just worried using replica intake parts will be an issue.

please let me know your thoughts and expertise.

Thanks!

[MWAKU]

1) does the resonator actually do anything important - if i remove it, does it improve airflow and/or let in more pollution?
its there to reduce intake/induction noise. if you don't want it and want to run a stock intake box still, take it out for induction noise.
2) SRI has issues of heat when idle, and is also illegal to have them uncovered (god knows why), so easier to install but have to make a cover for it. furthermore the internets say that when idle and not moving, its sucking in hot air, but people say once u start moving thats not an issue. is any of this true?
don't see why it matters, whether idle or not. the main point is that an engine will be quicker when sucking in cold air, and when a car has been on for a while, the engine bay is going to be hot, and going to be constantly resonating heat.. which the pod will suck up, the temp. depending on position of the pod.
dont want CAI because i dont want to worry about rain getting in. and pain to install for a noob
its quite easy, you don't want to go your whole life not knowing how to take off clips/bolts, and how to put them in, (ur wife will lol). theres DIY online with pics... straight forward, just time consuming if its your first time.
3) is it a bad idea to remove resonator AND install a SRI? is the air still able to flow efficiently from the front into the airbox? otherwise might as well install a cai
whats the point, the air will be hardly (if any) be sucked through the resonator. if ur pods sitting where the OEM air box used to be, it shouldn't matter.
4) I currently have a KNN panel air filter installed. Is there a way to install an intake and still make use of the filter? i understand that it will be double filtering, thereby restricting airflow. if thats the case, im happy to resell it and get better performance with a SRI
better performance, you realise, you'd probably not even getting close to 1kw with the SRI, or even a CAI on ur euro. the only thing its doing is providing, is improved response, and sound. if anything just stick to what you have, there is no point in spending money on those parts for no reason. and no don't "double filter".

IF you really want a SRI, remove the bottom of ur OEM air box, take it out, chuck it..... screw holes in the side of ur top part of the box, and mount the kn panel filter that why (depends on how u want to mount it, screw holds in the rubber surround of the filter, w/e)

Lastly,
5) do intakes have to be branded? this is the most important question, cause even the noob forums has ppl reccommending getting an el cheapo pipe and fitting an apexi or knN pod. so if theres no issues with that, that means theres no issues in buying a replica intake right?
no, its just a piece of pipe, and a pod. if ur buying the brands, your buying for quality and work man ship and good fitment. for an intake, i don't see what enormous power gains you will get, unless your car has all the breathing mods already. and also, there are supposedly the 'cheap' pods who have 'proven' to have better airflow then the branded ones..... but who cares, the effect in the bigger picture is minimal. and shouldn't really be of a major concern. (unless ur car is a track beast)

when u buy branded, you support the scene, and stop these china rip off stealing their business.

[DC2-PWR]

Spot on MWAKU, straight from experiance :thumbsup:

[Fredoops]

Isn't SRI an instant Defect in most states.....

Considering you'll be most likely exposing part or all of the cotton/paper filter in the engine bay... and the fact Euro's just got a recall for leaking fluid causing fire....
I'd give SRI a pass.

[mugen_ctr]

SRI are useless, they dont make any power due to sucking in engine air heat, but loose power, they alter the power band, due to the short piping, they reduce engine response

In vic, u can either have 1 intake mod, so either a cooler or pod filter

[SuperJDM.]

SRI are useless, they dont make any power due to sucking in engine air heat, but loose power, they alter the power band, due to the short piping, they reduce engine response

In vic, u can either have 1 intake mod, so either a cooler or pod filter

SRI with heat shield box :P

[mugen_ctr]

same deal man... heat shield only deflects the direct heat, but the engine is still sucking the hot air, thats why many always opt for CAI, or retain stock air box add with cai, me personally, id go for stock air box with cai feed, as ive done with my car, as ive been through the very worse of melbs stormy weather, an when ur running a cai, shits scary lol.. and also, a soaked pod filter, does tend to bog the car down, as the engine struggles to breath through it... same thing happened with my CAI on a very wet day!

[Fredoops]

Get an upgraded airbox type of intake like gruppe-m or comptech.. Problem solved

[TheSaint]

resonators are not there just to reduce sound - they also help compensate for the 'helmholtz resonance' a very finely calculated pulse that effects the intake manifold, runners, valves and throttle-body to reduce turbulence and increase efficiency in the induction process (a very simple and inaccurate explanation)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Helmholtz_resonance

in most cases i just rip them out in favor of a CAI system - but we have been doing alot of study on them lately at college as a part of my mechanical engineering degree

it seems that when you get down to the nitty gritty of the calculations the resonators - provided they are the right shape and are placed in the correct position - actually smooth out turbulance and negative pressure against the valves and throttle body butterfly - which isnt as much of a concern for somebody installing a CAI - but for the design of a balanced internal combustion engine for a mass market produced vehicle it is a bit more applicable

im ranting now ... if anyone actually cares i can get some info from my lecturer - otherwise dont worry about it lol

as for your questions - the only way a CAI is gona be bad for ur engine is if the entire filter and pipe is submerged in water - rain droplets will just get vaporized
as for installation - its is the single best and easiest thing to install for a noob to start out on

SRI are just heatsoaks, loud and draw attention

[MWAKU]

? so by running a stock OEM set up with no resonator = ??? ive removed mine and just running kn panel like this fulla

[Fredoops]

? so by running a stock OEM set up with no resonator = ??? ive removed mine and just running kn panel like this fulla

It means mathematically speaking by removing the resonator you'll actually be reducing the max volume air tha can be sucked in at given period (because when there's turbulance in airflow there's usually a vaccum of somesort)

[mugen_ctr]

? so by running a stock OEM set up with no resonator = ??? ive removed mine and just running kn panel like this fulla

Its always better to have a Cai feed/snorkel, even better if u have like a Ram-air intake setup

[TheSaint]

when u buy branded, you support the scene, and stop these china rip off stealing their business.
Exactly!! the R+D they spend on these kits costs alot of time and money!

i didnt realise this was for a euro - check this out...

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...I-temp-testing

as for the resonators - the best ones are the ones that have a small resonator right near the TB - the ones that are further away and down in the bumper arnt very effective and its easier just to remove them (IE the EG and DC2 have a big lump of black plastic resonators in the front bumper that are pretty useless - however the newer cars have a small resonator up near the TB that actually helps)

[Fredoops]

Its always better to have a Cai feed/snorkel, even better if u have like a Ram-air intake setup

Exactly, if you had gotten rid of the resonator, put a flexible intake feed tube in it's place (it's like $40off eBay)and point the tube outside, If you don't have fog light then place the end of tube where the fog light cover is and bam... Ram air

[furythree]

Wow thanks for the responses guys, very informative
i was thinking that the ram setup is pointless considering all the heat intake issues ppl keep mentioning, so basically its best to create an icebox setup, so the airbox is a nice vacuum of cool air.
the thing is they cost more than CAis and i dont see how they are really any different than a stock airbox setup with the resonator removed, perhaps with some piping replacing the resonator to direct airflow


me personally, id go for stock air box with cai feed, as ive done with my car, as ive been through the very worse of melbs stormy weather, an when ur running a cai, shits scary lol.. and also, a soaked pod filter, does tend to bog the car down, as the engine struggles to breath through it... same thing happened with my CAI on a very wet day!
this is what i was thinking too. like if u remove the resonator, how the hell does the air get directed into the airbox? add a snorkel? and when u say air box + cai feed, thats basically removing the reso piping and replace with CAI pipe and pod. but hows that any different to standard CAI setup in terms of mitigating water intake since it the pod is in the same place?




1) IF you really want a SRI, remove the bottom of ur OEM air box, take it out, chuck it..... screw holes in the side of ur top part of the box, and mount the kn panel filter that why (depends on how u want to mount it, screw holds in the rubber surround of the filter, w/e)


sorry can u explain that again. i dont uderstand how the KN panel will sit...it sounds like it will be floating in the air with the lid of the airbox hovering above it....
and instead of having a vacum like sealed airbox...everything is exposed an open. how would the air be directed into the engine??

[gumus89]

All that R&D from the brand names will net you jack shit. Spend the money on the brand where it counts.

[DC2-PWR]

SRI are useless, they dont make any power due to sucking in engine air heat, but loose power, they alter the power band, due to the short piping, they reduce engine response

In vic, u can either have 1 intake mod, so either a cooler or pod filter


same deal man... heat shield only deflects the direct heat, but the engine is still sucking the hot air, thats why many always opt for CAI, or retain stock air box add with cai, me personally, id go for stock air box with cai feed, as ive done with my car, as ive been through the very worse of melbs stormy weather, an when ur running a cai, shits scary lol.. and also, a soaked pod filter, does tend to bog the car down, as the engine struggles to breath through it... same thing happened with my CAI on a very wet day!

There are some track cars here that use SRI with heatsheild box, not because they can't afford CAI, because they actually experaince more 'go' from it, and you get power from low rpms which is another +. I personally like the SRI over my CAI.

Why because you instantly feel that power comming from low revs. Other than CAI you can only feel that "slight" power on top end.

A proper SRI with airbox and little pipe like CAI will be much better in preformance than a CAI. Like a comptech style, mugen style, system.

[gumus89]

A proper SRI with airbox and little pipe like CAI will be much better in preformance than a CAI. Like a comptech style, mugen style, system.

Not saying you are wrong, but can you justify that statement with real evidence (not that your mates best friends second cousin says it feels faster)?

[dougie_504]

Not saying you are wrong, but can you justify that statement with real evidence (not that your mates best friends second cousin says it feels faster)?


With the filter sitting in the OEM panel-filter position (concerning length of pipe from filter to TB), but in isolation (like the OEM air box) you will produce better power because the filter is ideally positioned for response and build-up of turbulence ---> filter too far from TB reduces response, but too close to TB means the air won't build up turbulence. It will also be shielded from the heat by the box, and with a cold air feed at the bottom it will only breath cold air.

You get the best of both worlds - response/turbulence and cold air induction.

[TheSaint]

all of my CAI setups have had alot better throttle response and low end power vs SRI

its generally accepted that SRI is more top end and CAI is more mid-top end and box with air feed is low to mid power ranges

i have always had the best overall results with a properly shielded SRI with cold air feed

but i run a CAI for daily driving because i always get better fuel economy from it and i prefer the sound

just do this and be done with it ....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...I-temp-testing

[TheSaint]

All that R&D from the brand names will net you jack shit. Spend the money on the brand where it counts.

so you can knock up a Groupe-M intake kit in your back shed for me can you?? saweet!

[DC2-PWR]

Not saying you are wrong, but can you justify that statement with real evidence (not that your mates best friends second cousin says it feels faster)?

I had j's racing whale intake (SRI). so thats my experaince :)

[TheSaint]

to the OP - there are going to be alot of opinions on here about which is better and why - and it will help steer you in the right direction - but its going to come down to what sounds/feels right for you

[TheSaint]

I had j's racing whale intake (SRI). so thats my experaince :)

that intake kit bogs alot down low, and has slower response compared to a Fujita/Injen CAI - but has HEEPS more top end
(tested from experience from tuning my Dc2)

[DC2-PWR]

that intake kit bogs alot down low, and has slower response compared to a Fujita/Injen CAI - but has HEEPS more top end
(tested from experience from tuning my Dc2)

Yeah it didn't bog up that bad though, but still I think I had more 'pull' over my Injen cai.

Maybe its my pod filter on the injen as its dirty thats why it lags. But I sure loved that whale intake.

[TheSaint]

the pod filter on the Fujita kit is WAY better than the one on the Injen - sounds better and has better response

nothing beats the sound of the whale intake on vtec tho - and it generally wins out every time when testing them with a dyno

the only problem with them is heat-soak because they have such a large filter

[DC2-PWR]

the pod filter on the Fujita kit is WAY better than the one on the Injen - sounds better and has better response

nothing beats the sound of the whale intake on vtec tho - and it generally wins out every time when testing them with a dyno

the only problem with them is heat-soak because they have such a large filter

yeah gotta love that sound, its just too loud.

thanks for the airfilter tip bro, will look into a new one

[trism]

this is what i was thinking too. like if u remove the resonator, how the hell does the air get directed into the airbox? add a snorkel? and when u say air box + cai feed, thats basically removing the reso piping and replace with CAI pipe and pod. but hows that any different to standard CAI setup in terms of mitigating water intake since it the pod is in the same place?

The resonator isnt an intake pipe. Its a sealed section that is pretty much plugged onto the side of the airbox, or intake pipe. It is there to negate the pressure waves caused by the intake pulse. It allows the air to resonate in it, rather than the intake pipe, which could cause irregularities in the pressure inside the intake manifold.

What most people do is either remove the resonator and replace it with some flexi pipe that runs down behind the bumper, or cut a hole in the bottom of the box, and run some flexi down behind the bumper.

You dont run a filter on it, because there is already one in the box.

This means that the airbox is sucking air from behind the bumper, in the airflow, not from the hot engine bay






sorry can u explain that again. i dont uderstand how the KN panel will sit...it sounds like it will be floating in the air with the lid of the airbox hovering above it....
and instead of having a vacum like sealed airbox...everything is exposed an open. how would the air be directed into the engine??

what he is saying is. Normally the filter sits on the lower half of the box. and then the top part seals it in.

You take the bottom part away, and attach the filter to the top part of the box, that has the pipe going to the engine.


Heres the deal but.

People get so worried with rain and water etc.

If you go with a CAI that places the pod in behind the bumper bar, and does away with the stock airbox, youll find that the pod itself will probably be around 10-15cm higher than the lowest part of the car, which im assuming is about 15cm off the ground. Which makes it 25-30cm off the ground.

If you're dumb enough to drive through 30cm deep water, you deserve it.

With regards to "omg it'll suck up water when it rains", go check out water injection.

Water in the intake charge will actually cool it as it vaporizes (don't believe me, go back to high school physics)

Not only this, it reduces detonation, allowing timing and ignition advance, higher comp ratios, and therefore, more usable power.

A Short Ram Intake will increase power in the top end, because the velocity of the air stays higher, as it has a shorter track to the inlet valve, and therefore, better mixture with the fuel, and better flow into the cylinder.

But, no good for daily driving, where 90% of your power needs is down low.

with regards to temps, i did a temp test on my old corolla. I had a temp gauge with the sensor on a lead, and the display in the car.

I had a 20v Blacktop, which has factory ITBs

firstly, i took off the inlet plenum, and ran open throttle bodies. On a day with an ambient temp of 26degrees, and the sensor mounted right in front of the trumpets, it only took 15 mins of mild driving for temps to reach 80degrees.

Thats 80 degree celcius air the engine is breathing. Terrible.

Then i put the plenum back on, and drilled a hole in the centre, fed the sensor in, and sealed it. So the sensor was floating in the void of the plenum, and wouldn't be affected by heat soak as if it were attached to the plenum itself.

With a pod directly on the side, and in the engine bay, temps were the exact same as running open. 80degrees.

I put a long bit of 3" flexi pipe on the plenum, and ran it all the way down to behind the front bar, pointing straight down into the fresh air.

Even after a 30min thrash, the highest temp i saw was 40 degrees. Thats half the "short ram intake" Coming to a stop, there was a bit of heat soak into the air in the plenum, as it sat there idling, it went up to about 60, but as soon as i started driving and it sucked in fresh air, it dropped back down.

In the middle of winter, at night when it was like 5 degrees, i was seeing intake air temps of 15 degree.


But here is the real kicker:

ALL OF THESE THINGS ARE POINTLESS FOR A DAILY DRIVER

Car manufacturers have a budget of billions of dollars they can pour into R&D

If you think that you can get a combination of power, economy, emissions, comfort and life expectancy out of an engine in your backyard garage, then please, enlighten us while we bask in your glory as you sell your ideas to the car makers, and get rich.

As soon as you change one of these things, all the others are affected. So yes, all of these things will increase your air intake, which can increase your power, but to do this itll use more fuel, and there goes your economy, and you emissions are increased as well.

[TheSaint]

+1 - some damn good advice there

i especially love the bit about the water with CAI - i try and explain this same thing to people almost every day and they still shruge and dont beleive me - sigh
i also had a mate that was dumb enough to hydro-lock his car in a puddle through his CAI - hes not too bright that one lol (the whole front left of the car submerged)

and the 20v black top is a pure sex engine - that thing would have been so much fun =)

[MWAKU]

as well all know fuel economy drops, but ive always wanted to know by how much? but a big difference? or just a small difference? i haven't experienced much drop in fuel economy in my euro, i believe when it does, it due to my heavy foot. but also thinking that this will decrease my fuel economy creates a placebo for me, and i start to get paranoid.

[TheSaint]

depends on how efficient the intake kit is - if its super efficiant than in the case of nanna driving it should be or has known to give slightly better fuel economy - but as soon as you put ur foot down the indicator will swing sharply in the opposite direction lol

personally my CAI kits have had better fuel consumption results than SRI - as much as people try to convince you though - nothing beats stock box with a cold air feed for fuel economy

[MWAKU]

yeh, just really want numbers, already know all the basic stuff like that. lets say im getting around 9-9.5L/100km. what roughly would it amount to, as it can't be a significant difference between each intake, would say +- 0.5? or what?

[EK1 Civic]

Well pods have a larger surface area so they suck in more air. More air means more fuel is required to mix so you burn more fuel in theory. In my case with sri and cai feed piping. My fuel economy increased and i can get like 600-650km out of $30 worth of fuel. This was when it was $1.35-1.40 per litre.

[furythree]

With the filter sitting in the OEM panel-filter position (concerning length of pipe from filter to TB), but in isolation (like the OEM air box) you will produce better power because the filter is ideally positioned for response and build-up of turbulence ---> filter too far from TB reduces response, but too close to TB means the air won't build up turbulence. It will also be shielded from the heat by the box, and with a cold air feed at the bottom it will only breath cold air.

You get the best of both worlds - response/turbulence and cold air induction.

but isnt that pretty much waht the stock airbox is trying to do? short pipe from tb to panel filter, which hovers over the bottom half of the airbox thats blowing up cold air?


all of my CAI setups have had alot better throttle response and low end power vs SRI

its generally accepted that SRI is more top end and CAI is more mid-top end and box with air feed is low to mid power ranges

i have always had the best overall results with a properly shielded SRI with cold air feed

but i run a CAI for daily driving because i always get better fuel economy from it and i prefer the sound

just do this and be done with it ....

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...I-temp-testing
can u fix the link? i get "..." in the middle

Id like to see what heat shields look like if possible
by cold air feed, u mean run a pipe from behidn bumper to airbox with panel filter?


The resonator isnt an intake pipe. Its a sealed section that is pretty much plugged onto the side of the airbox, or intake pipe. It is there to negate the pressure waves caused by the intake pulse. It allows the air to resonate in it, rather than the intake pipe, which could cause irregularities in the pressure inside the intake manifold.

What most people do is either remove the resonator and replace it with some flexi pipe that runs down behind the bumper, or cut a hole in the bottom of the box, and run some flexi down behind the bumper.

i think thats what im wanting to do. but which box are u talking about for cutting a hole in? airbox? cause mine already has a pipe running down the bottom....cant i just remove the resonator and run flexi as a snorkel behind the bumper?
iwith the flexi behind the bumper, is that different to a cai setup? i thought they were located in the same place?




what he is saying is. Normally the filter sits on the lower half of the box. and then the top part seals it in.

You take the bottom part away, and attach the filter to the top part of the box, that has the pipe going to the engine.


so you "seal" the filter to the top half and the fix lid to the car body, so its in the same position as it was with the bottom half....but if u remove the bottom half of the air box...isnt the panel filter + lid just floating in air above a gaping big void with a hole at the bottom? how would air be directed into the panel? wouldnt it be more efficient with the filter sucking in air from a vacume space like an airbox? and if u leave it exposed, isnt that running more risk of heat soak that with the airbox intact?
what am i missing here? looks like a job for ms paint?



Heres the deal but.

People get so worried with rain and water etc.

If you go with a CAI that places the pod in behind the bumper bar, and does away with the stock airbox, youll find that the pod itself will probably be around 10-15cm higher than the lowest part of the car, which im assuming is about 15cm off the ground. Which makes it 25-30cm off the ground.


im assuming from what your saying, that if i went a snorkel route, it will be sitting way higher than a cai?...just worried about leaves and crap being sucked in putting it so close to the grill



A Short Ram Intake will increase power in the top end, because the velocity of the air stays higher, as it has a shorter track to the inlet valve, and therefore, better mixture with the fuel, and better flow into the cylinder.

But, no good for daily driving, where 90% of your power needs is down low.

with regards to temps, i did a temp test on my old corolla. I had a temp gauge with the sensor on a lead, and the display in the car.

firstly, i took off the inlet plenum, and ran open throttle bodies. On a day with an ambient temp of 26degrees, and the sensor mounted right in front of the trumpets, it only took 15 mins of mild driving for temps to reach 80degrees.

Thats 80 degree celcius air the engine is breathing. Terrible.

Then i put the plenum back on, and drilled a hole in the centre, fed the sensor in, and sealed it. So the sensor was floating in the void of the plenum, and wouldn't be affected by heat soak as if it were attached to the plenum itself.

With a pod directly on the side, and in the engine bay, temps were the exact same as running open. 80degrees.

I put a long bit of 3" flexi pipe on the plenum, and ran it all the way down to behind the front bar, pointing straight down into the fresh air.

Even after a 30min thrash, the highest temp i saw was 40 degrees. Thats half the "short ram intake" Coming to a stop, there was a bit of heat soak into the air in the plenum, as it sat there idling, it went up to about 60, but as soon as i started driving and it sucked in fresh air, it dropped back down.

In the middle of winter, at night when it was like 5 degrees, i was seeing intake air temps of 15 degree.


which part is the plenum?

should the flexipipe be pointed downwards or outwards facing oncoming air thru the grill?

im gunna draw a diagram when i get home to clarify.
and i cant believe SRI is top end response. i just want low end increase so i can floor it at lights. cu2 is heavy so struggles in mid range

[trism]

I'm on my phone so I can't write a decent reply, hopefully someone else can or ill explain it better when I get home.

But the term "cold air intake" isn't just restricted to an intake where the pod is located down out of the engine bay. It refers to any setup that has a feed of fresh air. Doesn't matter if its a pod behind the bumper, a bit of flexi going from the bumper to the stock airbox, or even a scoop on the bonnet that feeds straight into the intake manifold.

If you just run flexi to the airbox, it doesn't matter if it points down or forwards. As long as it is sucking on fresh air.

You may get the tiniest bit of ram air effect by pointing it forwards, but its not going to make a difference until you're doing speeds of above 150.

Oh and the Plenum refers to a multi piece intake manifold.

[dougie_504]

I also use the Fujita pod. I love the sound, much better than anything I've ever heard.

+1 to trism (can't rep you again yet lol). Great info.

[DC2-PWR]

I also use the Fujita pod. I love the sound, much better than anything I've ever heard.

+1 to trism (can't rep you again yet lol). Great info.

Fujiti pod filter? Or the whole sytem?

Man i want that pod filter

[dougie_504]

Fujiti pod filter? Or the whole sytem?

Man i want that pod filter


Pod only. Custom 3" welded pipe. Excellent craftsmanship too. Set me back I think $300-350 new from QLD.

[gumus89]

so you can knock up a Groupe-M intake kit in your back shed for me can you?? saweet!

What are you talking about?
The 1kW that a brand name intake nets you for a Honda is not worth the money. Worry about the brand name for products that are actually worth it.

[TheSaint]

What are you talking about?
The 1kW that a brand name intake nets you for a Honda is not worth the money. Worry about the brand name for products that are actually worth it.

it all depends on the brand/car/part i suppose - i agree with you with some regards - but if you are modding your car most of the time money isnt an issue anyway lol
i generally prefer to pay a premium for better quality parts and save the hassle later down the track

[TheSaint]

Fujiti pod filter? Or the whole sytem?

Man i want that pod filter

Fujita systems are pretty much exactly the same as Injen - but the pod filter is HEEPS better
any custom intake system i make up for my mates now i get them to buy a Fujita Pod
or if we can get the whole Fujita system

the pods are generally between $120 and $250 on ebay
and the systems are generally around the $400 mark

[dougie_504]

it all depends on the brand/car/part i suppose - i agree with you with some regards - but if you are modding your car most of the time money isnt an issue anyway lol
i generally prefer to pay a premium for better quality parts and save the hassle later down the track


Haha no offence bro, but your ECU didn't really work out!

Personally I think it's fine to cheap out on intake. All the R&N in one company's aluminium piping won't equate to a significant benefit over a generic aluminium pipe IMO. Even filters aren't that big a deal in terms of performance variation according to Ben, however I like the Fujita for sound :)

[TheSaint]

yeah i cheaped out on it and it end up being a big waste of time and money =/

[azzacrombe]

it all depends on the brand/car/part i suppose - i agree with you with some regards - but if you are modding your car most of the time money isnt an issue anyway lol
i generally prefer to pay a premium for better quality parts and save the hassle later down the track

what would you reccommend for a DC5R???

[TheSaint]

Fujita CAI - nice system, good build quality, great pod and sounds great without being too loud

if your a balla get Groupe M lol

[mugen_ctr]

all this fuss over intakes, LOL, makes me wish i had a turbo car! cant wait till the day i go forced induction, either a turbo car, or turbo my d-series! screw n/a

Groupe M is verrrry expensive! LOL

[azzacrombe]

Fujita CAI - nice system, good build quality, great pod and sounds great without being too loud

if your a balla get Groupe M lol

hahahaha...i actually looked up and found a Gruppe M CAI and it looked awesome and apparently increase hp by 8-12%. was soo tempted but then saw it costs $1050 :S.

[TheSaint]

lawl yeah i cant justify that for an intake kit - just get a Fujita Kit for around $300

[mikey72]

Just a handy bit of information if you guys are having touble selecting a pod. Autosalon did a pod filter test a couple of years ago measuring flow & filtration.

LINK! (http://www.3aracing.com.au/HTML%20Folder/Images/Air%20Filter%20Shoot%20Out.pdf)

[azzacrombe]

lawl yeah i cant justify that for an intake kit - just get a Fujita Kit for around $300

Thanks for the input guys. Just one last thing, heard the fujita has got a great induction noise, but no increase in HP. From your experience, is this true?

[TheSaint]

lol no - its exactly the same as the Injen kit but has a better designed pod filter

the wrinkle black kit is quieter and doesnt make as much power from my experience with them (iv had 3 different ones now - as well as various other kits)

but i noticed a very nice difference on my Dc2 - much better throttle response, better induction sound and a nice boost to mid-top end power

[dougie_504]

hahahaha...i actually looked up and found a Gruppe M CAI and it looked awesome and apparently increase hp by 8-12%. was soo tempted but then saw it costs $1050 :S.

Gruppe M...12% power boost from an intake lol. It's like those ebay headers that claim 40%.



Just a handy bit of information if you guys are having touble selecting a pod. Autosalon did a pod filter test a couple of years ago measuring flow & filtration.

LINK! (http://www.3aracing.com.au/HTML%20Folder/Images/Air%20Filter%20Shoot%20Out.pdf)

I've seen this before and I get annoyed at the usual responses I get from people:
- "That was years ago..." As if 3A Racing suddenly forgot what they were doing and everybody else kicks their ass now...
- "The test was probably sponsored by 3A Racing and has biased results..." Always the skeptic!

I'm always open to the idea of any results that I can see from R&D. How can you trust a company like Injen for all their R&D, but not another company, based on no clear evidence of cheating? As far as I can see this is an objective and fair test by a neutral entity.

I called 3A Racing last year and they told me they'd send me a pod filter for $26. Bargain IMO.

[Fredoops]

Gruppe M...12% power boost from an intake lol. It's like those ebay headers that claim 40%.


I've seen this before and I get annoyed at the usual responses I get from people:
- "That was years ago..." As if 3A Racing suddenly forgot what they were doing and everybody else kicks their ass now...
- "The test was probably sponsored by 3A Racing and has biased results..." Always the skeptic!

I'm always open to the idea of any results that I can see from R&D. How can you trust a company like Injen for all their R&D, but not another company, based on no clear evidence of cheating? As far as I can see this is an objective and fair test by a neutral entity.

I called 3A Racing last year and they told me they'd send me a pod filter for $26. Bargain IMO.

Bascially 3A racing is best and K&N second.

[furythree]

so wats the best way to make a custom Icebox?

[dougie_504]

IMO either OEM box with K&N filter, remove resonator and run flex-pipe from the bottom of the OEM box to the front of your bumper in the grill.

Or get some aluminium sheets and DIY a box to house a pod filter with the same flex-pipe feed.

[Fredoops]

Just think out loud, what happens if you keep the stock air box (but remove panel filter altogether) and shove a pod filter where the resonator was? So you got like an extra air storage facility (the old airbox)

[TheSaint]

for some reason all the K+N pods i have had have been fail

but the rally guys swear by them lawl

[mugen_ctr]

i dont see the big fuss with pod filter selection tbh, they all do the same, use similar materials, an similar construction, heck even the monza ones are just as good...

at the end of the day, ur just paying for the name really

The only one you never touch are the ones similar to HKS mushroom pod filter, worse filters to date, very little filtration, an all looks an sound, its basically just a sponge stuffed into a rib

[mikey72]

i dont see the big fuss with pod filter selection tbh, they all do the same, use similar materials, an similar construction, heck even the monza ones are just as good...

at the end of the day, ur just paying for the name really

The only one you never touch are the ones similar to HKS mushroom pod filter, worse filters to date, very little filtration, an all looks an sound, its basically just a sponge stuffed into a rib

You are kidding right?