Can anyone explain this wheel alignment report?

[Mikecivic78]

I got a wheel alignment after lowering the car today. The car has been dropped 50mm front and 25mm rear.

Can anyone explain this wheel alignment report?

Is it within good limits? I took it to a new place and I wanna make sure they did it right.

REAR:

Camber: (left) -1 42' (right) -1 55'
Individual toe: (left) +2.0mm (right) +2.0mm
Total toe: +4.0mm
Geometric Driving Axis: +0 00'

FRONT:

Camber (left) -1 33' (right) -2 02'
Individual toe: (left) +0.3mm (right) +0.4mm
Total toe: +0.7mm

[1590cc]

What adjustments did they made? toe and camber? or just the toe?
The toe looks fine to me.. I prefer it to be on 0 though.
Camber is a bit whack.. might need some camber adjustable chuck in there if you got none.

[Mikecivic78]

yea, i kinda thought the camber is a bit crap.

Unfortunately, I didn't get a before report.

Report looks overly basic, doesn't it?

[bennjamin]

Camber you cant generally adjust - disregard. Differences
In degrees per SIDE basis indicate worn bushes bent suspension parts or rims -

But look at your toe - ask why wasnt it set to as close to 0mm front n rear?
Its not a race car.

[Mikecivic78]

Camber you cant generally adjust - disregard. Differences
In degrees per SIDE basis indicate worn bushes bent suspension parts or rims -

But look at your toe - ask why wasnt it set to as close to 0mm front n rear?
Its not a race car.

Well, there definitely seems that there is a bit of discrepancy between left and right. Should i get a suspension specialist to inspect the bushes etc..?

I cannot understand why they did the toe like that. I didn't ask for it. WTF?

[aaronng]

Some cars have toe in as stock. My Euro for example has 0mm toe at the front but +1.0mm toe in on each corner at the rear, giving it +2.0mm total toe in. Your set up that you have now is more for stability but not for steering response. I prefer to have the rear toe at about +1.0mm in each and the front toe at either 0mm or -0.5mm toe out each.

[Nepolian]

It depends if you actually got a front and rear wheel alignment or just a front only. 2mm toe rear is abit much but shouldn't have much effect on overall performance.

[migoreng]

REAR:

Camber: (left) -1 42' (right) -1 55'
Individual toe: (left) +2.0mm (right) +2.0mm
Total toe: +4.0mm
Geometric Driving Axis: +0 00'

FRONT:

Camber (left) -1 33' (right) -2 02'
Individual toe: (left) +0.3mm (right) +0.4mm
Total toe: +0.7mm

interesting..
compare it to mine from last month. It's odd how you have so much toe on the rear too...I'm just lowered 1.5 inches from stock height.

- Before Alignment:

Front
Camber left -1*38' right -1*50'
Toe left -0.1mm right -2.8mm

setback -0*09'

Rear
Camber left -1*28' right -2*22'
Toe left -1.5mm right +2.5mm

- After alignment:

Front
Camber left -1*39 right -1*49'
Toe left +0.7mm right +0.5mm

setback +0*01'

Rear

Camber left -1*25' right -2*21'
Toe left +2.3mm right +2.3mm

[markismaximus]

the toe adjustment could be maxxed out on the rear. hence why it can't be set to 0mm

[Mikecivic78]

It depends if you actually got a front and rear wheel alignment or just a front only.

It was front & rear alignment.

And thanks for the comparison Migoreng. :thumbsup:

[vtecing]

Camber settings look ok for an old car. Tow is even all round so tyre wear should be predictable but not sure why it is positive toe. I like my cars to have a neutral feel so I usually have 0 toe on rear and -0.5 on the front. Remember, the cars wheel alignment changes while driving around corners, bumbers, cambered angles etc. When the car is under load the weight shifts and toe usually straightens out at the front. Also, left and right setting should be different due to the fact that all roads have a slight camber to the left to accomodate for water dispersion when it rains, (this mostly applies to castor though).

[aaronng]

Camber settings look ok for an old car. Tow is even all round so tyre wear should be predictable but not sure why it is positive toe. I like my cars to have a neutral feel so I usually have 0 toe on rear and -0.5 on the front. Remember, the cars wheel alignment changes while driving around corners, bumbers, cambered angles etc. When the car is under load the weight shifts and toe usually straightens out at the front. Also, left and right setting should be different due to the fact that all roads have a slight camber to the left to accomodate for water dispersion when it rains, (this mostly applies to castor though).

Alignment places like to put positive toe on the rear of the car.

[Mikecivic78]

I did re-install of front sussy, so I'm getting front + rear alignment done @ the same place.

2 things:

1) Wanna confirm that both front and rear toe should be zero on an EK.
2) Anything else I should ask the guy to do?

[Nepolian]

Get it 0 for a neutral feel.

[1590cc]

Yeah set at zero as per factory settings

[Mikecivic78]

Cheers, thanks guys.

[string]

If you want to set it to factory settings, I suggest you read the manual and find the specs for yourself rather than believing people on the internet. (i.e. the factory manual DOES NOT ask for zero toe front and rear)

[charliebrown]

I've got my toe set to 1.1mm front and 4.6mm rear. Factory for my car model specifies between -2 to 2 for front and 2 to 5 for rear.
Before the alignment i was on -6.6 front and 5 rear.

Dunno why the specs don't say 0 if it means less tyre wear... i'd go with factory rather than just asking them to do 0

[Mikecivic78]

If you want to set it to factory settings, I suggest you read the manual and find the specs for yourself rather than believing people on the internet. (i.e. the factory manual DOES NOT ask for zero toe front and rear)

I just went back to the place and got zero toe front and rear. Also just read ur post string. I did not consult a manual, bad thing not to do I suppose.

BTW string, you've told me what the manual DOES NOT ask for, so what DOES it ask for?

Anyone want some rep? If you can post manufacturer's specs it would be good.

Here are the new values:

REAR:

Camber: (left) -2 05' (right) -2 15'
Individual toe: (left) 0.0mm (right) 0.0mm
Total toe: +0mm
Geometric Driving Axis: +0 00'

FRONT:

Camber (left) -1 47' (right) -2 11'
Individual toe: (left) +0.0mm (right) +0.0mm
Total toe: +0.0mm

Good news is there was no invoice for this one, they did it for free, so that was good. Still dunno about their work quality though.

[charliebrown]

Bro the shop should be looking up your factory specs before they begin, it should be included in your report. You shouldn't have to look anything up... you're paying them!

[Mikecivic78]

You have a point charlie brown. Today when I got the new alignment done, they just seemed to follow my lead and put in zero toe. They didn't seem to check anything out on their computer.

[charliebrown]

Reputable workshop? I just asked for "four wheel alignment, set the toe so i get minimal tyre wear". They charged me $60 which is a little more than some other places but you get what you pay for. Ive heard many stories about people going to shit tyre places and their wheel comes out not centered etc

[migoreng]

When you have over 1 degree of neg camber, how should toe be set to even out the tyre wear?

I've checked my 25,000km old Kumho KU31 tyres and they have camber wear. Looks like they'll last 40,000km. My next front>rear rotation is in another 5000km and i'll simply drive until they are worn down to the wear indicators.

I'm only lowered on kings lows (1.5" drop). Should I consider a camber kit?

[Bludger]

Don't quote me, I have no idea, but thinking about it logically, with neg camber, you should add toe "IN" to counteract the imbalance by some degree.

By doing so, the toe in will give you less cornering attributes, negating the -ve camber. whats the point..

Looks might be a good point?

[Mikecivic78]

yes, negative camber definitely has visual appeal.