D16Y1 Power

[MIK020]

Hey guys and girls im a newbie to the vtec scene now the car ive got is a 93 civic with a D16Y1 SOHC its got a cold air intake 12m leads and a racing radiator and im wanting to take it to track days and all that so i want it to be reliable and go hard lol just wondering if you guys can set a young bloke in the right direction on mods and places to go
Cheers
Mike

[dougie_504]

N*Power 4-2-1 header on ebay for $120, bargain.

Get a an exhaust, high-flow cat and cat-back (at least 2" but 2.25" max is probably best). Mandrel bends for track, mild steel for street use.

Good tyres.

Rear subframe brace + larger rear sway bar. Check out ASR's website and their combination purchase.

Coilovers. Skunk2, Tein, Bilstein, Tanabe, Buddy Club, BC.

HD clutch and lightweight flywheel.


It's a slow engine to be honest, but IMO actually somewhat underestimated.

[GSi_PSi]

Single Cam D16Y1 is not a performance based vtec motor, sure you can do the usual Intake/Exhaust/Headers which will gain you
a tad more power naturally aspirated , but if you want it to go hard only way is going to be boosting it , otherwise an engine swap is a better option
depending on how deep your pockets are, remember every dollar you spend on your D , you could be putting that into a swap of a DOHC true vtec motor B series or even K series.
If your considering doing track then as dougie said get headerback exhaust system, TYRES! they make a night and day difference to your cars handling. Then the usual Sussy, Braces, Drivetrain components as dougie mentioned

[bennjamin]

as above - there is NOTHING short of turbo kit or BIG money big cam hi compression build that will make good power with this motor.

In the meantime - as mentioned spend money on parts such as heavy duty clutch + lightweight flywheel combo , remove as much static weight as posslbe (for the track !) and all that. Dont both with exhaust system or intake etc....these do NOT make any more power on your engine. The extra noise makes you feel like you are going faster !
Finally , get nice tyres , nice suspension and a upgraded rear swaybar such as ASR + ITR DC2R combo. Its proven and really helps

[honda_zivic]

just get some cheap knockoff cai+headers+catback from ebay no point buying expensive shit for minimal gains.

then get a decent cams like bisimoto, delta or sumshit, and sum cheap ecu like s100.

power comes from cams really.

[shepparton]

bisimoto header is expensive but good gain i'd love to have one if i have enough money

[MIK020]

the previous owner put coilovers in with a front strut and at the moment tracking down a rear strut brace and stripping the boot out to lol

ok conversion wise a B16 is kinda wat i would be looking at how much are they roughly??

[dougie_504]

$2,000-2,500. Another $500 for mounts, probably at least another $1,000 for labour and more for new fluids and belts/gaskets.

Call it $4,000 minimum IMO. Ignore all the bullsh!tters who tell you that you can buy a full B18C7 swap for $3g with $500 install.

[GSi_PSi]

Sydney Auto Dismantlers selling ITR B18C7 for $2,500 without the gearbox. Ask for a deal with the ECU, mounts etc usually $200 more
Source out a B16A box looking at around $500-700 or could get a ITR LSD Gbox $1000-1500
OBD1 to OBD2A Harness $120
Labour - Varies from as low as $350 to $1000 (pm me for sourcing mechanic if you like)
9709 2800

[mugen_ctr]

Whats ur budget man, this is always the first thing u should always ask urself.... its easy to make a shopping list, but be realistic about it, everything costs money :)

Is the car pure track or daily an track?

Easy power = Turbo kit $2500 - $3000

N/A = B18 swap $3000-4000

Displacement = B20vtec swap $3000-5000

All 3 options net similar power, but its also how it was tuned as well, and mods, take ur pick :D

[MIK020]

sorry guy i live in Brisabane and im on the Ps so engine conversion i can get away with but turbo i cant lol and thats wat ive been told was looking at a B16 or am i better off saving a little more and gettin the B18 and budget wise kinda tight but i can save a bit lol

[Jccck]

Easy power = Turbo kit $2500 - $3000


Don't even bother, lol
Sure it can be done with the help of eBay.. But the headaches aren't worth it.
Spend 1k on boltons, and 2k on Suspension.. Way better use of your $

[mugen_ctr]

Don't even bother, lol
Sure it can be done with the help of eBay.. But the headaches aren't worth it.
Spend 1k on boltons, and 2k on Suspension.. Way better use of your $

You obviously never done it, nor met anyone who has done it on a budget :), we had no headaces with our turbo kit, nor had any hassles, besides some of the tuners fukkn around, but at the end of the day, we did it for around 2.5k

But since ur on ur P's OP, definite go B18C, B16 will be good, but u get over it real quick! its lack of torque just kills it

[Jccck]

You obviously never done it, nor met anyone who has done it on a budget :), we had no headaces with our turbo kit, nor had any hassles, besides some of the tuners fukkn around, but at the end of the day, we did it for around 2.5k

But since ur on ur P's OP, definite go B18C, B16 will be good, but u get over it real quick! its lack of torque just kills it

I have friends who've done it.. And i've never seen one go smoothly, they all ran into tuning problems and most of them spent thousands fixing/replacing parts they keep breaking lol
But none of them are driving Hondas, perhaps thats the issue

[mugen_ctr]

I have friends who've done it.. And i've never seen one go smoothly, they all ran into tuning problems and most of them spent thousands fixing/replacing parts they keep breaking lol
But none of them are driving Hondas, perhaps thats the issue

There are all sorts of issues goin with boost, i guess for some its hit an miss, at the end of the day, it does pay to have already a factory turbo lol

[MIK020]

nah i like the N/A lol and im on the P's for another year and a half lol but i went to a friend of a friend who does exhausts and he's goin to email me a set up for day and track set up lol so just waiting to hear back from him lol also if im looking for a cam wat should i be looking for ???

Cheers for the help lol
Mike

[mugen_ctr]

with cams, ur gonna need a tune with it, so factor in a ECU and a tune, so all ups around 1.5-2k, anything like Hondata S300, Apexi Power FC, Neptune etc etc should be more than adequate, providing the tuner u choose can tune it, id say find a tuner first, than find the Ecu :)

Cams, anything like Toda, Spoon, JUN are the goods... for a street car, get mild cams, anything with crazy lift ur gonna loose daily drive ability,

Before u even do that, learn to drive the car, than learn what needs improving...

And also, no one has mentioned with goin b-series, is u need to upgrade ur brakes, even DC2 are more than enough.... For a track day, get good pads that wont fade after one or two laps

[Jccck]

You don't strictly need a tune when you put a bigger Cam(s) in your motor, it just allows you to get every ounce of power increase if you do tune it.
If you're really set on the track action, Suspension is the way to go.
Your times will improve with handling moreso than power.. New coilovers, stiff swaybars, better quality brake pads.. Power is nothing if you can't make use of it =)

[MIK020]

You don't strictly need a tune when you put a bigger Cam(s) in your motor, it just allows you to get every ounce of power increase if you do tune it.
If you're really set on the track action, Suspension is the way to go.
Your times will improve with handling moreso than power.. New coilovers, stiff swaybars, better quality brake pads.. Power is nothing if you can't make use of it =)

suspension was done by the previous owner its got coilovers front strut the only thing i need is the rear strut and the breaks maybe get a rear lower bar to if the $$$$ lets me haha

[Jccck]

suspension was done by the previous owner its got coilovers front strut the only thing i need is the rear strut and the breaks maybe get a rear lower bar to if the $$$$ lets me haha

Have you got some really stiff front and rear swaybars though?
If you're happy with your pedal feel, and the car pulls up/locks up fine.. (This is how mine was)
Upgrade the rotors to limit the brake fade, brake fade will literally KILL your cornering.. And oversized (diameter i'm talking) is not always necessary.. Infact with my car i opted for thicker (yes, 2mm thicker they JUST fit lol!) with a better venting pattern, more suitable metallurgy structure, etc.. And they're amazing.

[MIK020]

Have you got some really stiff front and rear swaybars though?
If you're happy with your pedal feel, and the car pulls up/locks up fine.. (This is how mine was)
Upgrade the rotors to limit the brake fade, brake fade will literally KILL your cornering.. And oversized (diameter i'm talking) is not always necessary.. Infact with my car i opted for thicker (yes, 2mm thicker they JUST fit lol!) with a better venting pattern, more suitable metallurgy structure, etc.. And they're amazing.
swaybars i think are stock i might jack it up and see wat its got but im sure there stock lol wat thickness should i be looking at ?? and break setups i got no idea on them lol wat should i be looking at lol???

Cheers
Mike

[Jccck]

swaybars i think are stock i might jack it up and see wat its got but im sure there stock lol wat thickness should i be looking at ?? and break setups i got no idea on them lol wat should i be looking at lol???

Cheers
Mike

There's plenty of brands of Swaybars out there, i have 'Suspension Techniques' F+R stiffer Swaybars, and they're brilliant!
Just shop around, and i'd even trust eBay aslong as it's a decent seller.

Brakes.. Well, get some high performance Bendix Pads for a start.. I'm on my first set and they seem very effective, but any high performance pad should do.. Should set you back anywhere from $100-150 IIRC.

Calipers, i personally wouldn't upgrade them..

Stainless lines give a really nice solid pedal feel, but it's not necessary either.

Rotors are a must!
And don't believe the hype, Crossdrilled rotors don't crack unless they're of poor quality (China generally uses inferior metal to what the ADR considers acceptable..So DON'T buy cheap stuff) basically whether you buy slotted, drilled, or both! rotors.. Make sure there is a small chamfer on all the slots/holes (Even some of the brand name ones don't have this feature).. The chamfer helps to spread stress and further helps against stress based cracking.

I've come to realise that no matter what you're buying.. More money will always result in you getting a better performing product.
I know that Money is generally an issue to most people, but Rotors are something i would definantly not recommend skimping on.. $ = Performance

[MIK020]

so sway bar a 22mm ?like this
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Honda-Civic-EG-EH-91-94-inc-92-98-CRX-Swaybar-22mm-X-R-/130424983623?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e5def5047#ht_5153wt_1139
and strut
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/ULTRA-RACING-2-Point-Rear-Strut-Bar-Honda-Civic-EG-/150604023911?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2310b30867#ht_19341wt_905

ok saw these would they be worth getting ??
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CIVIC-INTEGRA-EF-EG-DC2-Beaks-Rear-Lower-Tie-Bar-/370429784576?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563f55f200

ok and brakes wat would be a good setup like diameter rotors and all that lol kinda lost with the breaks

Thanks again guys for the info and help
Cheers
Mike

[dougie_504]

THat's too much $$$ for a 22mm rear sway bar. Get an ASR setup, check out their website. 24mm rear sway bar (good for track) and subframe brace so you don't tear your subframe by putting it under too much strain from the extra stiffness. Better value, solve both problems at once.

Ultra Racing isn't bad, but again if you want to go track then I suggest you consider their 4-point rear strut brace. It bolts into your spare tyre cavity (which I suppose you'll remove for track days) for extra rigidity. They also do a 3-point front strut brace that attaches to your firewall for that same reason.


For the Beaks bar - get the ASR subframe brace that I mentioned above and the Beaks bar becomes redundant. It does basically nothing when you get a good subframe brace.


So instead of those 3 items, IMO you should get ASR subframe brace + rear sway bar kit, as well as an Ultra Racing 4-point rear strut brace. Maybe an UR 3-point front strut brace if you can afford it.

[dougie_504]

Check out this thread (http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?147633-Rear-sway-bar-on-EK1-spin-out-going-to-far) on rear sway bars and subframe braces. Good info.

[MIK020]

Cheers man was a great read and the rear setup sounds like a plan lol might look into prices lol

[MIK020]

ok so i found the 4 point strut bar but ive rung a few places and the cant get there hands on a ASR subframe kit and there some on ebay but there like $400 well last time i looked anyone got a contact that can get one with the sway bar kit lol

[dougie_504]

What's wrong with this? Just order it in...

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7021&idcategory=357

Email them to check shipping if they don't offer it on the website.

[MIK020]

What's wrong with this? Just order it in...

http://www.jhpusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=7021&idcategory=357

Email them to check shipping if they don't offer it on the website.

thanks man been heaps of help just waiting for my pay check and ill be ordering one

[dougie_504]

Sweet, lemme know what postage is like please :)

[MIK020]

Sweet, lemme know what postage is like please :)

will do man but wont be for a little while shit popped out and got to pay bills now haha but should be in the next month hopefully fingers crossed lol

[chow_tofu]

Just letting you know a personal experience with a D16Y1 2.25" catback. - its shit for driving daily as theres barely any power/torque below 4k RPM, hence why I changed it back to stock.

2" is prob the way to go if you're gonna keep it NA.

[dougie_504]

2" for sure mate. I always tell people not to go 2.25" or 2.5" lol. Way too big IMO

[chow_tofu]

yes 2.25" is way to big.

My exhaust came with the car, either the owner was noob or she wanted to turbo it haha :L

[dougie_504]

Yeah I have a 60mm exhaust with a 5Zigen muffler. I want to install if for looks/sound but I don't want it to ruin the powerband. Wondering if I should stay stock, put it on and enjoy sucky driving, or put it on + turbo haha.

[TheSaint]

Single Cam D16Y1 is not a performance based vtec motor

are you retarded? its the second most powerful D-series engine there is - the D16y1/D16z6 and the D16y8 are like the type-r's of the D-series

theres alot of fun to be had on the cheap with D-series engines - if you want a cheap project to have fun with build up the D16 with I/H/E and a bisimoto cam - you will be happy with a tune

if its going to be a serious track day warrior - i would go for a B-series engine for sure

the D16y1 isnt actually as expensive to build as you may think ;-)

[TheSaint]

as for exhaust - honestly on the D-series anything up to 2.5" will be fine
i used to be very hardline when it came to putting anything bigger than a 2.25" on a D-series (or a B for that matter)
but my mechanic put a 2.5" stainless catback on my D15b7 and it actually works really well - didnt notice any losses from stock (even though i expected to loose some bottom end)
i would aim for 2.25" - just make sure you have some nice resonators in there and you will be fine

[TheSaint]

also - the 3-point front ultra racing bar can be a bit of a headache to install and doesnt provide that much more performance than the 2-point
and the 4-point rear strut brace goes around the spare tyre - no need to remove it
i would also consider the ultra racing front lower bar - dont worry too much about the room/floor bar as its more for sedans and coupe's