Quick Question about mini me conversion.

[jaces13]

Hey guys!

just a very quick question,

in a mini me conversion from a d16y1 head on a d16y4 block, is the throttle body and the fuel injectors from the y1 essential to complete the build? or can I just use the ones from the y4?

Thanks guys :)

[najdi]

pretty sure it isnt essential...as there both 1.6 most likely would be injecting same amounts... im not 100% but from what i read it doesnt matter

[jaces13]

Thankyou Najdi!

can i please get some more answers?

thanks guys!

[TheSaint]

throttle body size for pretty much all D series is the same - NFI about the injectors though
just go with whichever set is in the better condition =p
the Y1 intake manifold is the better of the 2 as well

which OBD are u using for the mini-me?

[jaces13]

Hey TheSaint!

oh thats good then, because i picked up the y1 and it basically came with everything just without the ecu, injectors and tb for 80 dollars :)

and il be using a p28 ecu with a obd2-obd1 conversion harness.

so all i gotta do is get the head machined, get the ecu, loom, head gasket and yeah installing it :)

il be boosting later on down the track too, hence why i am doing this conversion just to also see the condition of my engine.

Obviously there are other things i need to look into like injectors fuel pump blah blah for turbo but thats for next year to worry about :)

thanks TheSaint, il be doing this conversion very soon!

[TheSaint]

man thats cheap! - i would so do the conversion if i could pick up a head that cheap

what machining are u getting done to it?

i wouldnt mill the head if you are going to turbo latter on - high compression is good for n/a - not so much for boost

but than again - D's love high compression lol

are you doing anything about valve springs or cam?
dont worry about retainers - oem honda are rated incredibly high

[jaces13]

lol yeah i was going to do a b-series conversion .. but everyone does it .. lol its the easy way out of things :P

hmmm to be quite honest, im not very good with the technical side of engines, but i have been learning quite abit about it :)

I know that d-series love high compression but i guess id leave the internals stock since if i go high comp with boost, it would be pushing it :P

man, im not going for high numbers or anything, since my car is a daily driven car so i just want the low end torque that boost offers :)

may i ask how is your d series build? lol id love to go n/a but i have no guidance since i know alot of people would boost d-series over keeping it n/a.

like ive been tempted to do a port and polish, bigger tb with maybe a stage 1 cam .. mmm bisi i wish lol ;) no doubt il be using the y1 intake manifold.

Man if you can actually talk to me about keeping an d16 n/a you might just convince me to not boost :P im over b series conversions. To be honest, im only doing the single cam jam because of being different, and i bet you get so much credit for what you have done!

so yes im here with open ears, ready to learn ey lol :)

Kj.

[TheSaint]

i pretty much did my d-series for the same reason - i wanted something different - more of a challenge

it would be hard for me to advise you either way - boost and n/a are both good for the D

personally i would track down a JRSC kit - supercharged D's are amazing

i would also be looking at getting a hondata intake manifold gasket for when you put it all together

for n/a TB isnt important for D - you will struggle to get better performance than what the stock unit will provide - the only time to go bigger is if you are going to boost

have you had a flick through my build thread?

hers a quick list on what i would do

Boost
- minime conversion
- hondata intake manifold gasket
- bisimoto turbo cam
- skunk2 cam gear
- port and polish
- turbo kit
- injectors
- adjustable FPR
- bigger TB

N/A
- minime conversion
- bisimoto stage2 cam
- hondata intake manifold gasket
- skunk2 cam gear
- 4-2-1 header
- intake kit
- port and polish
- mill head for higher comp

the skies the limit really

are you on d-series.org?

[jaces13]

Wow man, you know your stuff!

lol .. d-series.org .. im on there but hardly the case now

you do come across really rough people if you ask questions that they may consider as too noob.

and im just really lucky to happen to bump into you since HARDLY ANYONE in comparison to b series boys that rock the sohc ;)

ok hmm those lists sound good and easy to understand :) JRSC? goddamn that would be good haha

but ok .. so which is out the 3 builds ..the most cheapest? the most effective?

obviously the boost would get the most power but thats not what im really after .. reliability is also key since my car is a daily driven car :)

n/a looks promising, but how is the difference and is it worth the money spent?

Thanks alot man! you are really helping me heaps! mmm bisimoto cams haha

[TheSaint]

the best balance and most reliable would be the JRSC

it gives great drivability because of the instant torque on-tap - so it makes daily driving really easy

its most likely the cheapest as well - i know the kits go for around $1k and there arnt many around - but its a single bolt on application and you wont have to bother with cams or milling the head - just a good port and polish and ur good

add in a nice intake kit, some headers and an exhaust and you will have one hella nice to drive ride

not to mention ur car will prob be one of the only JRSC mini-me's in australia lol

im pretty sure mines the only one in australia with the combination that i have =p

[TheSaint]

ps - im moving this to the civic section as its a bit advanced for noob

[jaces13]

Wow like man i read up on your build and that really takes guts and determination!

I'm like you, work with what you got, be different and that's how you stand out.

As a result, you learn so much more about engines and engine building etc. I am willing to learn!

lol well ok atm, ive got 4-2-1 Genie Headers .. mmm my exhaust is way too big and loud! ive got 2.5 buddyclub spec 3 exhaust with a 3 inch megan racing tip.. no go for n/a my mate said that exhaust system is good for boost.

JRSC im actually interested now! so a port polish will do? im planning to also make up a short ram intake system with a heatshield, also fed by a pipe which comes from the front bumper! where the fogs usually go lol. I had that setup before but it was done cheaply .. so i took it off.

i got a quote off my mate 500 for a port and polish is that a good price? so where can i find JRSC from?

mate, it sounds like the PERFECT solution for me! low end torque, nice high reving sound of vtec on top :)

so your saying that .. port and polish, good intake system .. is all i need for now before supercharging?

btw, thankyou for your patience! I have so much respect for you because of your build :)

[jaces13]

rep +1

[TheSaint]

i learnt most of what i know from ozhonda and owning the EG and Dc2
i would love to move up to an EK - but im leaning towards a XT Forester at the moment (same engine + driveline as wrx) and dump in STI goodies

yeah a port and polish for $500 is damn good
i would mount up the JRSC with hondata intake manifold gasket and a nice intake and your sorted
maybe change the exhaust - keep it 2.5" but go with a oval barrel or twinloop muffler with at least 1 hot dog resonator

what fluids are you running? coolant + oil? and which transmission do you have? clutch + fly?

how much did the genie headers cost? are they mild steel or stainless?

have you considered any suspension or supporting mods?
you may have to put in some better engine mounts and refresh your bushings for the s/c

most of the JRSC i see are on the sale section of d-series.org
but occasionally they pop up on ebay

love your sig btw - so so so true =)

lets start on a list ...

S/C
- minime conversion
- hondata IM gasket
- JRSC kit
- port + polish
- exhaust modifications
- S40/20 B000 Gearbox
- Honda MTF + J's Racing Drain Bolt
- Honda FEO 10w30 + J's Racing Drain Bolt
- Intake Kit
- Exedy Clutch + Flywheel
- Engine mount kit
- Bush's and suspension

[jaces13]

lol well this car of mine that im driving is a keeper, first car and going to keep it :)

yeah the foresters and suburus in general are nice! my car actually sounds like it in the low revs .. thats how my exhaust sounds like atm.

Mate, to be completely honest, I have no idea about that technical side of my car

I know FOR SURE everything is stock! lol im not afraid to admit that.

Yeah i want to change the exhaust tip later on when i have money :)

I have stainless steel genie headers i picked them up for 75 dollars 2nd hand haha off this forum too!

oh i do have a suspension setup already well sorta .. since my car is a street car ive got koni yellow adjustables and koni springs :)

its really stiff but not as stiff as coilovers.

But if i have any more information that i know about my car then il let you know! so its just a y4 engine with everything else stock atm.

Umm so with that list (am greatful for you to make) how much would all that cost me? just a rough estimate :)

thanks man, your a huge help! I keep changing my mind hahaha but yeah need more of a sense of direction :(

[TheSaint]

koni yellow + koni springs is a very nice setup - i would stick with that =D
you may want to look at some braces and a rear swaybar
these prices are just guess's from my own car - most of it is from ozhonda traders and ebay

S/C LIST
minime conversion
- $?
hondata IM gasket
- $70
JRSC kit
- $1000
port + polish
- $?
exhaust modifications
- $?
S40/20 B000 Gearbox
- $300-$800
Honda MTF + J's Racing Drain Bolt
- $30 + $20
Honda FEO 10w30 + J's Racing Drain Bolt
- $30 +$20
Intake Kit
- $?
Exedy Clutch + Flywheel
- $400
Engine mount kit
- $?
VTIR Rear Swaybar + LCA (or get ITR/CTR 22mm sway + skunk2 LCA if you can afford it)
- $200
Skunk2 Rear Lower Tie Brace (or get ASR kit which can also include 22mm sway if you can afford it)
- $150
Ultra Racing 2pnt Front Upper Strut Brace
- $150
Ultra Racing 4pnt Rear Upper Strut Brace
- $200
Ultra Racing 2pnt Front Lower Brace
- $150
Hardrace Shifter Bushing Kit
- $30
DBA Front Slotted Brake Rotors
- $200
Project Mu Brake Pads
- $150-$400 depends which ones u get
Apexi VAFCII
- $200-$400
Skunk2 Shift knob
- $90
some sort of OEM alloy wheels 15"
- $200-$400
some desent rubber - bridgestone adrenaline is a safe bet
- $? - probably one of the best mods you can do for braking, performance and handling

theres probably more - the sky is the limit
for now i would concentrate on just getting your mini me conversion done
do the hondata gasket, get at least the front and rear struts, rear swaybar and rear tie brace and shifter bushing kit - you will notice a big difference

that will give you a good platform to move on with bigger mods

[jaces13]

Thanks alot man!! farout so much information :)

yes i think right now i might do a similar build to you for the time being .. all motor :)

right now im thinking of just port polish, that IM hondata gasket and an intake system :)

so the IM hondata gasket, what does it do?

after port polish, typically hows the performance improvement?

THanks alot again mate, your a huge help :)

[TheSaint]

if your staying all motor i would mill the head for a bit of compression as well
the hondata IM gasket its 100% better material than OEM and brings intake temps down

as for the port and polish - i dont know - never been able to afford one lol

this is an D16a6 (similar to the D15b7 but 1.6ltr) with a D16z6 head (usdm version of our D16y1)
with a port and polish

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=omPplDNhh5M

[jaces13]

Oh i see, how much is milling the head? and where do i send my head to get that done?

would you ever do a port and polish? alot of people say its at least 10kw instantly, even 20kw?

mate, do you have facebook? we can talk there :)

[TheSaint]

ill pm you regarding FB

if i had the time and money i would do a port and polish - but i cant afford to not have a car for the time that the head is off - and im a bit worried that if i take off the head - alot more problems with start clocking up $$$$$$$

that and i dont have the money to actually get it done at the moment either lol

if you can afford to do it tho - DO IT - makes a huge difference

as for milling - you will need to clean the head up alot and take it to a machine shop
anywhere that has a mill and a skilled machinist
as for the amount to take off for the right compression - i have no idea lol
you will need to research that