new built 1950cc engine with gt3076r

[Scholzey]

i will be recieving my new motor in a week or so. not sure how many of you know, but i blew a sleve in my b16 shortly after the gt3076r install.

now i will be getting a new motor from the USA. its basically unbreakable. 84.5mm bore with the b18 87.2mm stroke, so just under 2L.

just wondering if you guys think the trusty gt3076r is capable of 135mph down the quarter on pump fuel?

previously i have done 124mph with a gt2871r with 295whp(as dynoed at powercurise) on pump fuel with 20psi boost.

i am hoping to get around 430whp on my new motor on pump fuel(made 395whp on the b16 on 22psi with the gt3076r), and am wondering if you guys think my goal of 135mph is achievable from a full weight ek hatch.

my goal is to get the australian street tyre record, gotta beat 11.2 i think(my best is 11.78 with 300whp). hopefully i can get into the 10's!

let me know what you guys think, and i'll keep you all updated with how my new engine goes.

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[dc2r-0636]

this is awesome! what clutch you guna use? and gearbox?

also gota say 135mph sounds very doable

[Scholzey]

Carbonetic twin plate with standard b16 gearbox with quaife lsd.

[89lude]

which company built this

[TODA AU]

which company built this
If the pics are anything to go by, I'd say "Endyne"

[Scholzey]

What makes you think endyn?

[TODA AU]

What makes you think endyn?

I based my guess on the engine room where the photo's were taken.

- Same flow bench type & location
- Same camshaft analyser type & location
- Same stools, floor, shelves, racking system & tool drawers
- & the engine it'self looks very "Endyne-esque" (DART block, Endyne intake manifold, fluid damper & morosso pan)

How was my guess anyway?

[GSi_PSi]

Frothhhh

[MikeyG]

your guess is great

[Scholzey]

Yeah your right :)

Anyone else think 135mph on bp ultimate is doable on this turbo?

Also, does anyone else over here use endyn stuff?

[TODA AU]

Yeah your right :)

Anyone else think 135mph on bp ultimate is doable on this turbo?

Also, does anyone else over here use endyn stuff?

Back in the day (99~00) when I was partnered with Mark from Hypertune, we ran either an 11.2* or 11.4* @ 132mph in an EK4.
That was on small slicks though & with 480whp (B16A)
Basic specs were - 9.4:1 C/R, IHI TCW77 P28, Spec C cams, 11,500rpm rev limit, 26psi - C16
* - sorry can't remember the exact time

Re your turbo & targeted mph on 98 pump fuel,
The GT3076R might do the job, but with the capacity of your engine I'd guestimate you'll need a bigger turbo to get the most out of it.
The reason I say this is (though I don't know your cam choice) I expect the 3076 will become the limiting factor both with power potental & heat load on the engine. Moving to a larger turbo will unload the engine thermally & allow you to go further on the pump fuel than you could with a smaller turbine.
The turbo of choice IMO would be a GT35 with a T04R compressor wheel with a turbine A/R around 1.0 - Tial Sport 1.03 would be the best IMO
(Or a GT3582R as a minimum)
Also as an added bonus your torque curve will be flatter & hit a little softer which may help put the power to the ground.

Anyway, best of luck. Looks like an interesting project. :thumbsup:

[MSTCHF]

WOW looks the goodies DART block hmmmm never seen one in person before, what kind of head work and cams??
from my experience on a b16 with a 3582r at 26psi i ran 132mph. when you got more cubes i think the 3076 will restrict quite abit of flow so i'd have to agree with adrian.

[Scholzey]

I'm not sure of the difference between our cars, but I felt I would easily make 130 mph with the b16 and gt3076r on 98 at around 20psi. I ran 125 on my only run on that setup, and engine let go. I wasnt full throttle shifting and on my old and smaller turbo, I found I picked up around 5mph or more, as in boost time was so much higher. This would be exaggerated by the larger turbo.

I was much less involved in exact specs on this engine compared to my old one, where I would buy each part individually from what I had learned and my personal goals. On this engine I have goals and characteristics that I want from the engine, but I let Larry at endyn choose the setup.

My wants were

Around 135mph traps from gt3076r
Low down torque for nice daily driving
Wide power band that would be good for some circuit racing
98 octane pump fuel

This is a street car, I will not need any mOre power on the street I suspect, but I would like to cruise at 100 kmh put the car in 4th and melt the tyres.

A big thing for me is getting back into boost after a shift. So the small turbo helps that.

Oh another reason for this frame size turbo is to retain my air con, which is a must for me. I may look at gtx3076r for35r type power and lag from the same frame size as my current turbo down the line.

Oh even though I'm expecting 430whp, I would like 380+ - 430hp from low 5000's to 9000 or so. Peak power should be 8500. so area under the curve should be massive= faster then higher hp cars :)

[Scholzey]

Oh I use boost by gear, so traction hasnt been a problem before, and head is a used gsr head with endyn Cnc ported head. The thing I'm excited about is the fact that tb ,intake mani, head, cams, fuel type, engine displacement, desired rev range, will all be properly matched, so I should be getting the most power I can get, and as efficient as I can get. You don't get that when you just buy parts you "think" should work.

[turbotegs]

I was much less involved in exact specs on this engine compared to my old one, where I would buy each part individually from what I had learned and my personal goals. On this engine I have goals and characteristics that I want from the engine, but I let Larry at endyn choose the setup.

My wants were

Around 135mph traps from gt3076r
Low down torque for nice daily driving
Wide power band that would be good for some circuit racing
98 octane pump fuel

looks awesome mate, i was wondering the other day when this was going to arrive.

the only way you're going to know if it'll run 135mph is to get it to the track and see if it will, pretty pointless asking on here as the best person to answer your question is your engine builder, and if you gave him those goals he obviousily thinks it will acheive them.

mine will run 131-132mph on bp ultimate but i really don't like to push mine as hard as you do on pump fuel.

like i've said to you before, forget about the pump gas and feed it some c16 and go for 145mph! lol

good luck and look forward to seeing it at the track soon.

[dougie_504]

froth at the mouth...

[Sexc86]

winner winner chicken dinner!

[mugen_ctr]

awsum awsum build man :D

Cant wait till a honda breaks into the 10sec street radial tire barrier

[Scholzey]

Omg!

Took a week to clear customs. Fees are ridiculous!

[Scholzey]

engine arrived at the car shop today!! i will drop my car off on friday, and hopefully by the end of next week it will be ready to take home!

here it is!

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[dc2r-0636]

omfg.....

[IEVAQ8]

Nice..i got to ask...
Wat compression ratio did u go for???

[enbayz]

:O:O *speechless

[Vvvtec]

whoa....

inb4 300kw @ the wheels

You've even got a the USDM valve cover... Awesome :D

[GSi_PSi]

the b17 sleeved i have made 300kw on 98premium fuel on 28psi with a gt3040R, this should make more, and even more on E85 fuel. :O

[Scholzey]

I don't mean to be ignorant, but I don't know the compression ratio. I have put trust in them to select what he feels best will suit my goals and work correctly with the rest of the setup and fuel type.

[IEVAQ8]

I don't mean to be ignorant, but I don't know the compression ratio. I have put trust in them to select what he feels best will suit my goals and work correctly with the rest of the setup and fuel type.

thats kool............
hopefully ur happy with it ;)

[Slaz]

What shop is doing the build for you?

Looking forward to seeing some nice numbers and a happy customer! :thumbsup:

[Scholzey]

getting hi power to put it in for me. should only take a day or two plus tuning i would think. dropped it off today.

any of you guys used engine oil that has zinc in it due to high valve spring pressure? its what ive been recommended, but ive never heard anyone mention it before.

[Scholzey]

opened the crate up propperly today. will be bolting things on tomorrow.

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[Sexc86]

looks great bro.... endyn ftw !

[mocchi]

endyn stamped engine in australia. baller right thurrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

[Scholzey]

engine put into its new home today!

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[IEVAQ8]

mmmmmm...........reminds me of the time i did my turbo conversion on my itr..........
must be a great feeling

[lsvtec]

FARK this looks awesome, cant wait till its running

[xsiv]

looking good.
im runnign a b16a sleeved 83mm with a gt 35/40 (epic to drive)
running 21 psi to get 300kw. on 98
im sure that motor spools up nicly what rpm do u spool.

[Scholzey]

Not sure on spool, hoping the torque curve will turn early 5,000 on full boost. But I'll tell you for sure in a week or two. I'm hoping to pick the car up on Tuesday afternoon, but we will have to see how it goes.

[dougie_504]

THis will be great

[RandyRhydah]

Pooorn

[GormzZ]

yes this car is porn ay royzie ;).. can't wait to see this beast in action!

[Limbo]

just wondering i've noticed you're running standard ignintion setup, not looking to run direct coils?

[Scholzey]

Honda ignition is very good, I shouldn't see problems before my turbo runs out of flow. But if I were to run high 20's boost then I would think about it. But we will see how it goes, if it becomes an issue, I have an msd 6al and blaster coil to put on it that I was originally going to use when I first turboed.

[jdm18c]

any updates?? :)

[Scholzey]

Car is going slowly, I will be working away for about 2 weeks, so when I get back I'll have a few days off work to see it get started for the first time, then watch bedding in the rings. Then the oil will get changed and I'll get to drive it for 500 or so, then go from there.

One thing I can't decide on is whether or not to get an oil cooler. I have not read one post on any Honda forum or engine build where they use one... Turbo or not.

What do you guys think? I'm installing an oil temp guage to monitor temps..

[B16]

I know Jon (ACS Drags) Turbo D (30psi) ran an oil cooler and as did Deano in his dc2 (I believe). For street I think the general consensus is not needed, but for track work is where it could become necessity.

[cotties]

have you got the stock water oil cooler from the b18?
if not idd sugest a small 9 row cooler.
dean had problems with his cooler cause it was making his oil too cold with street driving (he fixed by making a removerable cover)
def a good idea to have one if your planning to do track work
jon need his cause the turbo was an old journal bearing turbo and it heats the oil up alot

[Sexc86]

Progress looks good mate. +1 For oil cooler, will give you more capacity too which is never a bad thing!, You can get oil cooler kits with thermostats on the block distribution plate which can solve the problem of your oil being "too cool"

[B16]

Jake, change your "car" you don't roll in wide body anymore!

[Scholzey]

Was going to refit the stock cooler from my b16, but found the block had a male thread coming out of the block, so I was unable to reuse mine. Terry, my mechanic said that oil temps usually are lower then water temps. From that I figured that the stock oil cooler must be mostly to help warm the oil on start up. Which brings me to my next question.. Ideal oil temps?

My sump already has extra capacity, but a cooler on a thermostat sounds like a really good idea. I will definitely look into those.

So basically for the time being( break in) I'll be running without stock and aftermarket coolers.

[RandyRhydah]

It's just for drag racing isn't it?

I don't see a huge need for an oil cooler unless you run into high oil temps on the street

[DLO01]

Yep, oem water/oil heat exchanger does exactly that. Water heats up 1st, so helps the oil heat up when cold. And also helps keep oil temps down when your up to operating temps.

Generally around the streets, normal driving, you'd see both water temps and oil temps 90-100 degrees. With a low temp water thermostat 80-90 degrees.

Oil cooler not needed on the streets, only if you track (would help on dyno too). Only so much you can do on the street. Your generally driving normal on the street and you can only give full throttle applications through a couple of gears and thats it. Keep note though that oil temps will shoot up with prolonged load/boost/throttle.

[Scholzey]

well im back from my two weeks working away, and i have taken rdo's for monday and tuesday.

plan is.

get to hi power at about 9am, get car checked over and turn engine over to get oil through everywhere and top up oil to propper level.

start car and bed in rings on dyno for half an hour or so while putting a tune on the car.

if all is good. i'll take the car and drive for 500km on break in oil before tuesday morning.

take car back in on tuesday and put a limited revs and wastegate spring boost tune on it. which will be around 8psi maybe 8000rpm?

so i'll let you guys know how i go.

hope to get about 300hp on 8psi :P but who knows. lol i made that on 20psi on a gt2871r on my b16.

[Sexc86]

Sounds good mate.... hopefully wont be far behind you!

[dai-16t]

300hp sounds rite i think. I did 390 with my darton sleeved and a tial housing 3076 on 18psi. Hopefully [your gate manifold setup hold 8psi consistant.

[Scholzey]

Just got back from the mechanic. I now have a low cam 6000 rpm 8 psi tune to drive around on for about 5000km. The engine made 140kw. So it's looking alright. I'm continuing to have cooling issues that have carried over from my last setup that I will have to sort out before too long!

I'll update when I get my next set of results.

[dougie_504]

Good good, sounds like it has plenty more potential once the cooling is settled and it's worn in a bit :)

[ewendc2r]

PS Check out OWEN MOTORSPORTS for some nice turbos ;)

[Sexc86]

Updates mate?

[trism]

Niiice!! If you don't mind me asking, how much did the dart block cost you direct from america? I priced one up from rocket industries the other day, and it was close to 5k

[Scholzey]

Well at the moment I'm putting some km on the motor. I have 2000 to go :) so hopefully I'll knock that over in the next week or so. I'll aim to be on the dyno at the end of next week.

The feel of the car to drive is great. Boost comes on a touch later then my b16 with gt2871 .63 rear combo. So overtaking is a just press the accelerator in whatever gear your in, kind of thing, and it'll pull hard :)

On my quote for the whole engine I believe it said about 1800 us$ for the block, but after that, it has cleaning up, welding, machining, porting of water and oil galleries etc. So it's not good to go as soon as you get it.

:)

Oh, cooling sorted. Fixed some of the wiring loom, now the computer turns on the fan as well as the switch on the thermostat!

Apparently all hondas have terrible wiring looms. People must feel the need to hack Honda looms themselves to add there electronic goodies. oh well

Cya :)

[dougie_504]

Sweet, thanks for the updates. Can you please get a video? haha

[Scholzey]

took my car to the shop to get dyno'd today. told them its using water. pulled the plugs and number 2 has some water in it. oil looks good. water in rad looks good. so im not sure if gasses are goign to the radiator, or if it is only water going into the combustion chamber.

there could be a number of things wrong, but we think it may have something to do with the o ring ing of the block and possible pinching. so im looking to endyn to see what they think i should do. will defiately have to take the head off, but where we go from there i dont know.

its all going to be painful. if i take off he head it will have to be machined flat again then that will stuff with the clearances of piston to quench etc, which would have been set very carefully.

anyway, i'll keep you guys updated..

[Slaz]

What head gasket was fitted to the motor??

[Scholzey]

Cometic B/VTEC Head Gasket; 0.030"; Naturally Aspirated; No
Nitrous (Each)

head is o-ringed

i heard back from endyn, said head my need to be re torqued.

[Slaz]

How did i know you were going to say cometic!!!!

Yes it may if you are very lucky so good luck with that.

I had issue with my big bore set-up with cometics, they always gave me greif, should the re torque not fix it let me know, ill let you know what to change it with.

Also if the head is coming off, make sure your mechanics know what they are doing in regards to setting the cam timing back, but it shouldnt need refacing, its not like its overheated so you should be fine......or has/did it get hot?

[Scholzey]

engine got hot once, which caused check light to come on. i believe the check light is 210degreesF, once i got some road speed a few secs later i saw my temps come down again. this was when my fan wasn't working properly and computer wasn't switching fan on, but relying on the switch on the thermostat.

i was watching my oil temps as well through my whole break in and oil reached max 105degrees C very briefly a few times and sat around 95degrees C most of the time.

head is used, so it should have alot of heat cycles under its belt, so it should be a bit more stable and resistant to over heats hopefully.

[TODA AU]

Bummer!, sorry to hear about that...
But before you jump in the deep end & pull the head,
Try retorquing it & add a "Seal Lock" "Seal tab" (3 equal steps to 80ft/lbs)
http://www.seallock.com.au/seal_tabs.html
It's a great product & locally available :thumbsup:
Chances are it'll sort your issues & save you a bit of greif.

As a side note,
The other issue I've found with B-series using head studs is if you follow the ARP (& other's) instructions,
you can often encounter the issues as you describe.
Ie: 4. Screw studs into the block "HAND TIGHT ONLY"
The problem here is this idea defeats the whole purpuse of using a stud in the 1st place & also risks the need to retorque the head.
By torquing the studs into the cylinder block, you get the best of both worlds & realise the true stregth improvement of the head stud.
The stud has a shoulder, so sound engineering says it should be torqued into place.
Example: By applying a torque of 30 ft/lbs to the stud before the head is fitted, the stud shoulder then applies a compressive load to the parent metal of the block.
The stud is also secure & unlikley to come loose (especially when compared to those that are only hand tight)
When the head is fitted & the stud nut torqued to the appropriate torque (80 ft/lbs in your case)
the tensile stress on the partent metal of the block is reduced when compared to a std head bolt.
That is the parent meatal then see's a tensile load of only 50 ft/lbs, 8 ft/lbs less than when using std head bolts.
(Yet the head is still pulled down by 80 ft/lbs) ;)
Conversly, if the head stud is only hand torqued into the cylinder block per instructions,
there is no compressive load applied & a further 22 ft/lbs more tensile load is applied to the block parent metal.
The only benifits then realised by using the stud over an OEM head bolt (assuming hat the base thread is home before torquing)
Is that no twisting load (only tensile/vertical load) is applied to the stud shaft therebye offering more accurate torque results.
(Over OEM head bolts)
The other benift is the increased clamp load through increased torque with a coresponding increase in tensile load on the parent metal.
If an engineers approach is taken, the parent metal is 1st compressed, then releived when the stud nut is torqued.
Ideally you'd torque the stud into the finnished torque, but generally this is not practical or possible.
In any case, the benifit of increased clamp load is realised & the parent metal of the block is less stressed then it would otherwise be is this method wasn't used.
Also, FWIW, I'm yet to encounter torque differences in stretch etc when this method is used.
Obviously this goes against the advice of the stud manufactures so you can take it as adice or not,
but in my experiece, it negates the need to worry about gaskets or retorque them.
Hope that helps,

Cheers

Adrian

[Scholzey]

my engine builder suggested to re torque head. 70 ft lbs.

he also sugguested if that didnt work and its a porosity issue then to try BarsLeaks.

my mechanic said that if retorquing does not fix the leak and that barsleaks is used, then he will not tune my car. if we knew for certain that the leak was not the gaasket after the re torque then he would trust barsleaks to stop the porosity issue.

but patching up a leaking gasket is not something he wants to try, he has seen motors blow gaskets and destroy engines with hydrolocks with barsleaks. so he is not keen to try this on my motor.

so fingers crossed the retorque works wonders.

sounds like the tabs you talk about are the same thing as barsleaks :)

im also not sure on the tightening technique they used on the head studs. but with their experience they would know what works best.

thanks for the talk on head studs. its interesting! :P

[mooshie]

210F is only 99 deg C. I wouldnt think this would be an issue?

as for the oil I have seen up to 118 deg C on the Golf and 245F on the teg before my oil cooler was installed. surely the temps you saw would not cause the head to warp.

[Sexc86]

I was looking into O-ringing in the past. Maybe consider a Stainless oring on a copper gasket ? apparently that works quite well

[Slaz]

Seal lock isnt like barsleak and wont cause the residual shit that barsleak will also and is worth trying, they use it often in all forms of motorsport.

As Adrian as said, 3 increases up to 80ft/lb is what you would go to.

I know Larry had a similar problem with his original Dart block build with porosity being the case within the cylinder wall and now he normally pushed them out at 84.5mm opposed to 85 or 86mm as they used too.

Good luck, keep us updated!

[tinkerbell]

fwiw - my cometic 85mm MLS gasket on 84.5mm bore is holding up fine using the tight headstuds technique (mine @ ~20ft/lb) and nuts tightend to 80ft/lb...

(not boosted though)

[Scholzey]

We are confident it is not through the sleves, or at least not below the rings, as the oil looks fine. We will find out on Monday weather the re torque works.

[tinkerbell]

also - did the compression test reveal anything?

[Scholzey]

When we checked for pressure leaking into cooling system, we did leakdown on number 2 cylinder which came out to about 3 percent.

Before the head gets torqued down on Monday they will do leakdown on all cylinders, then torque down, then check for coolant system getting cylinder pressure again, maybe leakdown again.

But not sure if 2nd leak down will change from torque down. The mechanic said the leakdown from the test on cylinder 2 was unheard of, or basically perfect.. So he said the bottom end was still healthy.

One other thing, I drove like this for 5000km and I think he said the piston looked pitted, so hoPefully the coating hasn't been blasted off from the water/ detonation from water.

[Scholzey]

Leakdown in all four cylinders was 4,4,4,3% which is really good.

Re torques the head studs by pulling them to 70 ft lbs from where they were. One of the most outside nuts moved about 20 degrees. All others didn't move.

Pressurised the radiator. Put the camera down the hole and saw some water re appear. Flow is really slow so it's hard to pin point, but it creates a a drop on the exhaust side quench pad. We didn't actually see a drop rolling down the sleve but the other day when the engine was hot, we saw a drip roll down the sleeve. So we think it's a cracked head, or pinched o ring on the gasket somehow..

So I guess from here we have to take the head off, and I'll probably send it back to the us.. But I'll hear back from the engine builder before we take the head off..

:(

[Vvvtec]

Not good! Not the type of thing you want to see from your freshly built motor :(

Hope everything works out for you man!

[Slaz]

Leakdown in all four cylinders was 4,4,4,3% which is really good.

Re torques the head studs by pulling them to 70 ft lbs from where they were. One of the most outside nuts moved about 20 degrees. All others didn't move.

Pressurised the radiator. Put the camera down the hole and saw some water re appear. Flow is really slow so it's hard to pin point, but it creates a a drop on the exhaust side quench pad. We didn't actually see a drop rolling down the sleve but the other day when the engine was hot, we saw a drip roll down the sleeve. So we think it's a cracked head, or pinched o ring on the gasket somehow..

So I guess from here we have to take the head off, and I'll probably send it back to the us.. But I'll hear back from the engine builder before we take the head off..

:(

What part do you plan sending back to the US?

[Scholzey]

The head.

He wants me to pull the head off and check if the sleeves are flush with the deck. He said he is preparing another head and gasket for me now so when we take off the head and see that it is a head or gasket problem, then I can just bolt a new one on. But if the sleeve has sunk, which I would think is very hard to do on a dart block then I guess there is only one thing to do. Take the engine out and send that back as well.

We will find out tomorrow about the sleeves.

I'll keep you's updated.

The way endyn is handling this makes me happy I chose them. Just unfortunate what has happened.

[dougie_504]

Glad to see they're looking after you mate. Customer service is the most important thing any company can offer IMO...

[Scholzey]

head came off today. cylinder 2 sleeve 6 thou below level of deck..

[STOCK]

omg, i feel your pain....

[Scholzey]

Had a few emails,

He said that I can send the whole motor back and they will fix/replace and pay for shipping both ways.

So my costs will still have been

Investigate
Remove head
Remove engine
Put head on
Mount on create
Unmount from create
Re attach fittings to head/ block
Reinstall engine
Retune to be safe.

Another few thousand down the drain. But not as bad as it could have been if the builder wasn't so helpful in resolving this.

I guess.. Watch this space, another engine will be on it's way soon.

[Slaz]

Consider yourself very lucky they have been willing to do that.

I had a similar issue with a set of sleeve's that went oval on me, all i was offered was for them to remove and replace them, no shipping costs or anything.....

Hope all goes well 2nd time round! = )

[tinkerbell]

vrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrry lucky!

but sleeving is so often borjked by these yanks,

why so hard to install liners???

[dougie_504]

So does this mean that the head pretty much doesn't seal properly to the block around cylinder 2 and just pisses water into the cylinder from the sleeve?

[Scholzey]

He said, We stress-relieve the blocks and do everything possible to settle the sleeves in the Dart blocks.

So I guess it's just old fashioned bad luck.

With the sleeve being lower, it creates a little lift of the gasket between the cylinders, which allows water to come in. I guess of it wasn't o ringed, the seal would be worse, and the leaking more pronounced.

[Scholzey]

Icing on the cake.

Went to the hyperdome, bought some stuff( long range nerf gun lol), took it to the car then went to the movies. Come back to an empty car. Lost my gf laptop and overnight bag, which is basically her whole life at the moment because she is a poor uni student, her travel photos, uni assignment and notes. And my battery drill which I don't really care about.

Since things happen in 3's I wonder what's going to go wrong next.

Anyway back on topic, I decided to max out my setup, which means the biggest turbo that will fit my setup/physical size constraints.

Gtx3076r..

Oh almost forgot,

I got a 45 series 4 port Mac valve which let's me run big boost with a soft wastegate spring as it switches boost and atmo between top and bottom ports of the wastegate and also ordered a 3psi wastegate spring, so hopefully I can grip first gear on drag radials at the track, and also run like 25psi or whatever.

[Sexc86]

4 port mac valve sounds interesting ! especially since you can only really add 10psi'ish with conventional boost solenoid valves!

Good luck mate!

[Scholzey]

the new block has been heat and cool cycled with the new apparatus which loads each sleeve individually and should be removed from it tomorrow. machining work will start straight away, and larry said that it should be together by the weekend.

hopefully the shipping process will start early next week.

[dc2r-0636]

awesome, good luck !

[Scholzey]

Engine builder said


We had poor results with the new block after all of the work. I'm beginning to think that Dart is having machining issues.
We removed the sleeves from your block, re-machined the receiver notch just below the deck and installed new sleeves. After a week of "stress", we can not make the sleeves settle any more.

So it looks like they have it sorted now, but if any of you guys go dart, be careful! Might be more trouble then it's worth if your engine builder isn't really on the ball.

[dai-16t]

Shuld have just fitted a set of darton MID sleeves here in OZ. Would have avoided all the head FuC$ and save a hella lot of money!

[Slaz]

Crap, mid sleeves are the worst but Dart blocks are known for issues and seems your unlucky enough to have got one. Question is, if it goes again, what is Larry going to do for you?

[dai-16t]

Those pretty crap mid sleeves are working just fine for me :)

[Sexc86]

+1. Stock sleeves + closed deck is the way to go !



Engine builder said


We had poor results with the new block after all of the work. I'm beginning to think that Dart is having machining issues.
We removed the sleeves from your block, re-machined the receiver notch just below the deck and installed new sleeves. After a week of "stress", we can not make the sleeves settle any more.



So it looks like they have it sorted now, but if any of you guys go dart, be careful! Might be more trouble then it's worth if your engine builder isn't really on the ball.

[Scholzey]

i am confident if it happens again he will do the same. like he said.. they stand behind their product 100%, which is why he is going to the lengths he is to make sure that nothing can possibly happen block wise.

it just looks like the long list of prep work to the dart blocks now has a longer list, and nothing that is pre machined from dart can be trusted as plug and play.

so i guess i can insure the next block that endyn sends out will be trouble free.

[Slaz]

Those pretty crap mid sleeves are working just fine for me :)

Thats good to hear, but how many other mid sleeve builds do you know of and their issues, I know of about 10-15 and alot have had issues with sinking sleeves, it also depends on how much power your pushing, if you arnt pushing much, you'll tend to have less issues, problem with mid sleeves is so much of the original blocks strength and integrity is machined away to accomodate the sleeve.

Im not saying they dont work, im just saying they tend to have issues, more so ones pushing decent power due to flexing of the block. Cooling issues also seem to promote failures as the block will heat quicker then the sleeve hence causing issues between the block and the sleeve.

As for Larry offering warranty on this forever, id like to see that, as im sure if it gets fitted and runs for a decent period and does it again, it'll be less likely he would come to the party as with any "race engine" they are not given warranty, as failure can and does happen.

Goodluck though and welcome to the joys of playing with cars! ; )

[dai-16t]

Problems with mids come from fitment. Mine were done by a very reputable shop and I also use a erl 5 point main girdle so weakness I guess is non existent. Power wise I am at 430kw atw. No troubles yet.
Anyways back on the dart story.

[Slaz]

This is still about the Dart story, as you mentioned issues come fitment be that mids or whatever into an OEM block or Dart putting metal liners into their blocks, the OP had cooling issues and you will probably find this is what started the issue where the block was hot enough to allow the sleeve to become a little to lose and they drop, causing the head gasket to no longer seal so they either push oil or water due to combustion or allow either substance to enter the chamber.

[Scholzey]

engine light came one once from temps, and the problem was before this :)

im not sure how the sleeves sit in the block, but i would have thought that there are two square edges that touch and once bottomed out, they wouldnt be able to move. or is there a wedge to square edge?
|
|_
...|
...|
...|
...|

or

\
.\_
....|
....|
....|
....|

how can a sleeve possibly sink if the surfaces are both square to eachother? or is that the problem?

it sounds like the not square thing was my problem when they tried the second time, because they machined it themselves after bad results on the first try on the second block..

lol

[turbotegs]

engine light came one once from temps, and the problem was before this :)

im not sure how the sleeves sit in the block, but i would have thought that there are two square edges that touch and once bottomed out, they wouldnt be able to move. or is there a wedge to square edge?
|
|_
...|
...|
...|
...|

or

\
.\_
....|
....|
....|
....|

how can a sleeve possibly sink if the surfaces are both square to eachother? or is that the problem?

it sounds like the not square thing was my problem when they tried the second time, because they machined it themselves after bad results on the first try on the second block..

lol

I cant comment on how the dart block sleeves are located but i'm pretty sure they will have a flange at the top of the steel sleeve that locates into a machined recese in the aluminium block as per your first diagram.

As for the darton MID sleeves, if the machining and install of the sleeves are done properly there is no way that they can sink, there is a 5mm step that the sleeve sits on at the bottom of the water jacket. the usual issue is that the sleeve isn't sitting down hard when it is decked.

i've machined 6 blocks for darton MID sleeves and never had an issue and the block in my car was the first one we done and it has done 25000kms at 450+kw@wheels and it's never been touched.

In short all sleeved blocks regardless of manufacture are fine providing the workmanship off the install is perfect! Obviousily Slaz knows of some failures of darton sleeved blocks as do i, but it is most definitly not a fault of the design of the sleeve it is 100% down to the person who installed them incorrectly.

Anyway hopefully Scholzey has a better run this time round and we see the car out at the track again!

[TODA AU]

In short all sleeved blocks regardless of manufacture are fine providing the workmanship off the install is perfect! Obviousily Slaz knows of some failures of darton sleeved blocks as do i, but it is most definitly not a fault of the design of the sleeve it is 100% down to the person who installed them incorrectly.
Gotta agree, though I've had mixed results over the years, I definatly agree they need to be installed perfectly.
& the ones that have been have been issue free, some running for many years & still going.
But it's funny you say that, cause Slaz actually had a Darton sleeved block done by Darton themselves...
Long story short, the sleaves both dropped & went out of round. The block was sent back & they fed him the same sort of speal you just said. Now obviously the guy inspecting the block & doint the report haddn't spoken to the sales guys & visa versa as they then asked who did it. LOL...
You can imagine their surprise when the finger was pointing straight back at them LOL...
The're heaps of side issues also but that'd be off topic (& Slaz probably tells it better) but yeah I completly understand his lack of confidence in their product.

Re Dart blocks...
Sorry, can't say I'm a fan to be honest.
I've only used a few & they are definatly not without their issues.
Sleeves is one, then there are the main caps & the doosey... The silicon/sandy shiite that comes away from the casting after a few hrs of use that can be found in the last chance filter screen for the Vtec (WTF!)

[tinkerbell]

Re Dart blocks...
Sorry, can't say I'm a fan to be honest.
I've only used a few & they are definatly not without their issues.
Sleeves is one, then there are the main caps & the doosey... The silicon/sandy shiite that comes away from the casting after a few hrs of use that can be found in the last chance filter screen for the Vtec (WTF!)

according to this article - you are supposed to spend half a day addressing the effects of the sand-casting process:

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0706_dart_b_series_engine_block_built/viewall.html


LW: Honda blocks are die cast, whereas Dart blocks are sand-cast. Look at a Honda block and you'll notice how smooth it is relative to an aftermarket version. Internally and externally the Dart block is much rougher, which is why we spend about a half-day going through it to get rid of the coarseness and porosity. This helps oil drain back to the pan faster. We also open up all those passages and polish them for even greater efficiency. Honda heads need lots of oil to ensure valvetrain longevity, so we want to get the oil back to the pan fast to get it circulating.

[turbotegs]

Gotta agree, though I've had mixed results over the years, I definatly agree they need to be installed perfectly.
& the ones that have been have been issue free, some running for many years & still going.
But it's funny you say that, cause Slaz actually had a Darton sleeved block done by Darton themselves...
Long story short, the sleaves both dropped & went out of round. The block was sent back & they fed him the same sort of speal you just said. Now obviously the guy inspecting the block & doint the report haddn't spoken to the sales guys & visa versa as they then asked who did it. LOL...
You can imagine their surprise when the finger was pointing straight back at them LOL...
The're heaps of side issues also but that'd be off topic (& Slaz probably tells it better) but yeah I completly understand his lack of confidence in their product.



Hahaha, having heard that i can also understand Slaz's lack of confidence in darton!

[TODA AU]

according to this article - you are supposed to spend half a day addressing the effects of the sand-casting process:

http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/htup_0706_dart_b_series_engine_block_built/viewall.html
LOL, I'm talking after you've done all that (& it actually takes more like a full day to get it all done)
& still the silicon casting shiite can appear...

[Slaz]

450 Still isnt a heap of power in a B series, the engine of question where a workshop was looking to sue the installer/machinist was Mid sleeves installed into a RB26 block. When they are pushing 1000hp+, no crank girdle or perfect install is going to stop that block deforming to a point the sleeves will fail, the insurer of the machinist hired an engineer who was at Ferrari and he found inherient flaws where a few engine types were named as being very prone to failing due to the block not having enough structure left to support the power levels they were asking of it.

Personally I will be using the new mid sleeve block I had redone but it seems that the solid sleeve blocks that ERL,GE, and a few others do, seem to have much less problems then the mids.

As for the Dart, ive seen one Adrian had to deal with and when you saw what happened, you really do wonder about the IQ of the guy who designed the caps and thrust face retention on that block.

[turbotegs]

450 Still isnt a heap of power in a B series, the engine of question where a workshop was looking to sue the installer/machinist was Mid sleeves installed into a RB26 block. When they are pushing 1000hp+, no crank girdle or perfect install is going to stop that block deforming to a point the sleeves will fail, the insurer of the machinist hired an engineer who was at Ferrari and he found inherient flaws where a few engine types were named as being very prone to failing due to the block not having enough structure left to support the power levels they were asking of it.

Personally I will be using the new mid sleeve block I had redone but it seems that the solid sleeve blocks that ERL,GE, and a few others do, seem to have much less problems then the mids.

As for the Dart, ive seen one Adrian had to deal with and when you saw what happened, you really do wonder about the IQ of the guy who designed the caps and thrust face retention on that block.

This is getting well off topic and i can appreciate that you have had issues with a darton block, but there is plenty off b series darton sleeved blocks that are making 1000hp in the states without issues, i agree that there are better sleeved blocks available but a well prepared and installed darton sleeved block will suffice for the majority of builds.

as for the nissan RB26 block that you speak of are you sure that it was a MID sleeved block? as Darton don't list a MID sleeve kit for the RB26 (unless it was a special?) only a dry replacement sleeve.

[Slaz]

Yes tegs i agree with you that there are plenty out there and they work, BUT, they also have a higher failure rate then the other ways of sleeving, and yes, Darton did produce mids for the RB26, they do not anymore and aftre the findings of the information I told very little about.

[Scholzey]

i don't know if i was clear about what is happening with my blocks. but now i understand.

my second block that they prepared and didn't like after all the machining work etc. is not being used. they removed the sleeves from my original block did the machining of the receiving notch and put in new sleeves.

the short block is together and the head is prepared. he is just waiting for a custom thickness head gasket now.

they said it should ship around next Wednesday :)

[dougie_504]

Excellent news mate. Really glad to see they're trying to make it up to you :)

[Scholzey]

well another problem popped up when they had the engine together. they did a leakdown test and didnt like the results, they pulled the head and found that there had been debris go through the engine, there were tiny indentations on the valve seats and valves.

so... they did another valve job..

im starting to feel sorry for them. but im greatly appreciative of what they are doing.

im not sure what could have been the cause, although i had had the intercooler output changed to 3inch from 2.5 and had 3 in pipe from intercooler to tb done.

maybe they didnt clean the cooler as well as it could have been? i don't know...

he asked that i clean all my piping and intercooler out, and use an air filter(which i do).

so... the engine will ship shortly when they organise all the paperwork to make customs know whats going on.

[Vvvtec]

Wow...

It's better all these little things go wrong in their workshop where they can fix them as they pop up.

Your definitely getting your monies worth though, its great to see them pulling their weight to ensure in the end your a happy customer :thumbsup:

If only there were more people/businesses like this out there...

[dougie_504]

Poor guys lol. But still very heartwarming to see some people are truly dedicated to their reputation and customer satisfaction

[Sexc86]

shit mic thats real bad luck!... also what size arp studs/torque setting you useing?

[Scholzey]

I don't know those specifics, I was told to re torque them down to 70ft lbs when we were problem solving before, so I can only assume that is the setting that they pulled them down to. :)

But All I know is that my engine is on it's way!!!!

It looks like this time my break in period will be very short.

The builder said that the rings should seat in 5-6 pulls on the dyno and should be fully broken in after 50miles under load.

So we will see how that goes.

[Vvvtec]

Awesome awesome news! :)

Sorry man I've probably just missed it, but how many pounds are you going to be running? And are you still upgrading the turbo? Car looks great man, Im pretty sure it was yours atleast, saw it when I went to see Ivan. Keep it up :thumbsup:

[Scholzey]

well good things must happen in 3's as well

my bro and his fiance had a baby boy 2 days ago,
my engine is a week away,
the laptop that got stolen from the car i was loaning has turned up and i should be able to recieve it back next week from the police.. just in time to tune my car! :P

[dougie_504]

Glad to hear mate :)

[Scholzey]

paid those fools at customs...

even though i didnt pay a cent for my engine this time, i had to pay customs $522.

i hate those guys... grrr

[pat88c]

It good to see everything going good

What th reason for paying the fools at customs? lol

[Slaz]

He had to pay as he didnt let customs know that the engine was going for repair, if he did, there would have been no charges.

[markismaximus]

He had to pay as he didnt let customs know that the engine was going for repair, if he did, there would have been no charges.

I have heard this is the case. If you ensure customs are aware the product has been sent back for warranty purposes you won't get stung.

[dougie_504]

Can't they refund it? Daylight robbery...

[Scholzey]

the fees were

agency attendance
quarantine entry fee
itf
atf
quarantine

added upto about $500

what i didnt have to pay due to it being returned under warranty was

10% gst
5% duty

last time i brought it in it cost be $1200 from the airport to the car shop with an engine value of about $3000...

[Scholzey]

clutch on
gearbox on
accessories on
manifolds on
turbo on

looks like by next weekend the engine should be in the car!

[Sexc86]

nice one mate, how did the 4 port boost solenoid go? did you use turbosmart or MAC ?

[Scholzey]

its a mac 4 port solenoid, and i'll be using a 3 psi spring.

havent used it yet, i'll see it working for the first time in a week or so hopefully. i really looking forward to being able to set such low power :P

[Limbo]

just wondering once you've hit ur mark are u gonna try e85?

[Scholzey]

because this is a pure street car, and daily driver, i wont be going for e85 for now, and probably not for a long time until its available at most fuel stations.

I don't even know one petrol station that carries it, although i'm sure there are a few.

i think with this turbo and my engine at the moment, it should be able to make the most of this turbo as is on BP ultimate. unless of course my right angle downpipe and high flow cat restrict things too much.

[Limbo]

oics, i'm lucky i have 2 near my place n one on the way to work :)
So i'm going e85.
Haven't seen many honda run e85 yet...

[DLO01]

its a mac 4 port solenoid, and i'll be using a 3 psi spring.

havent used it yet, i'll see it working for the first time in a week or so hopefully. i really looking forward to being able to set such low power :P

Contrats on the build. Just cause your using a 3psi spring does not nessasarily mean boost is going to be able to stay at 3psi, the thought and idea is there, but its not always the case. You've got a good flowing manifold (turbo priority, not WG priority), bigish turbo, it all flows well, so it'll want to boost up and WG venting may not be able to keep up off to the side.

[Benson]

oics, i'm lucky i have 2 near my place n one on the way to work :)
So i'm going e85.
Haven't seen many honda run e85 yet...

:wave:

[Limbo]

i did say i haven't seen many, i know u got one but i haven't seen it yet :)

[na-118]

e85 on b16 turbo soon yo

[Scholzey]

Contrats on the build. Just cause your using a 3psi spring does not nessasarily mean boost is going to be able to stay at 3psi, the thought and idea is there, but its not always the case. You've got a good flowing manifold (turbo priority, not WG priority), bigish turbo, it all flows well, so it'll want to boost up and WG venting may not be able to keep up off to the side.


one good thing about the manifold, which i thought was a fault when i first got it is that the pipe to the wastegate actually continues on into the manifold to 'catch' the exhaust moving past it, so that should help.

in the beginning i wanted a hy-tech turbo street manifold. those things look like a perfect design to me. but the price was high, and they werent readily available. i would still love one though.. lol

http://www.homemadeturbo.com/tech_projects/B_manifold/B_hytech_P.jpg

im not sure what the lowest stable boost will be, but my b16 with gt3076r had wavy boost till about 12 psi from an 8psi spring. so we will just have to see with this guy :)

although on my break in tune it held boost dead flat on 8psi(you could have drawn it with a ruler) on low cam at 8psi. so high cam will probably be a whole other story though.

[dai-16t]

Another e85 user here.
That is a top manifold design and the best chance you will get at running gate spring pressure.
I run a RAM horn with a very shollow transition to a 60mm gate with 7psi spring. It holds 9psi on the spring.
You should be fine.

[Scholzey]

it looks like willowanks new insurance or regulations for test and tune events will let any car that came standard with drivers air bag and 4 wheel disc brakes to run down to 10.00 and no mph limit.

all that is required is the 3 point lap sash seat belt and the standard - helmet, long clothes and enclosed shoes.

so now i am not worried about being booted, so i guess i'll even be able to see what this thing can do on slicks!

the way things are going it looks like it should be together before the new year. but we will see.. i just want to drive my silver bullet again...

[Sexc86]

serious? i thought sub 12s require a 4 point harness?

[GSi_PSi]

Sutututututu

[Scholzey]

here is the link

http://www.showticksecure.com/willowbank/VenueNet/_uploads/FCKeditor/file/pdfs/2011%202012%20season%20info/2011%20-%20NEW%20STREET%20REGULATIONS%20AS%20AT%20011211.p df

[turbotegs]

any updates?

[IV73CI]

E85 here

[Scholzey]

hmmm lots of waiting..

since my mechanic quit his job i had to find somewhere else to do it. so im waiting for this guys to organise some space or free time to get it put together at a car shop. now i dont know what the hold up is, maybe the shop is just too full all the time or something. who knows.

looks like he will have to put it in at my house in my garage, which isnt ideal lol. but who to trust? oh well. i just hope it happens soon...

i really want to drive my car.. :(

lol

[dougie_504]

I really friggin want you to drive it too lol

[Scholzey]

engine is going in finally!

small delay as somehow a rear engine mount bracket went missing.. 160$ later from honda and i have one.

hopefully it iwll be started and on the dyno by the end of the week.

we did notice that i am getting a crack at the base of where my suspension tower meets my chassis rail, which apparantly is relatively common for cars with traction bars..

anyone know a body shop in south brisbane thats anygood? i want to fix crack and reinforce the area on both sides of the car. :)

[kraiye]

hows the tune?

[Scholzey]

not tuned yet. engine is in and should be started for the first time this weekend. so i'll let you guys know how its all going. i might start a new thread instead of adding to this monster lol

[dougie_504]

I might get this moved to build thread, unless you wanna start fresh to remove some crapola?

[pat88c]

I say keep the thread and add some more pics, info and extra comment on eould do it all over again

[Scholzey]

pushed back till monday now.. lol so i will go see it after work...
hopefully its done!
:P

[Scholzey]

head to intake manifold had leak due to faulty gasket. you could feel a thin spot. annoying.. sooo out of melbourn comes a stock intake manifold gasket which should arrive on wednesday and hopefully the car can be worked on on friday afternoon.. lol

soon...

[Scholzey]

gasket that turned up was wrong. the one that looks right has been ordered, and has to come from japan, 2-3 weeks they say...

[dougie_504]

FFS man don't you just wanna eye-gouge somebody like in '28 days/weeks later'?

[lil_foy]

Didn't want to just order a intake gasket from a local supplier, may not have been oem but it'd be quicker.

[tinkerbell]

what special gasket is it that it needs to be ordered from jdm land?

[Scholzey]

well the highway autogroup didnt have one in australia so its gotta come from japan. its just an integra intake manifold gasket. the one with the round hole for coolant flow. i would rather stick with oem as that is what the engine builder has used..

oh, im very patient.... although the sooner the better lol

yes its frustrating, but out of my control im afraid....

[tinkerbell]

JDMyard would probably have one - they are my last resort place before Japan, if i cant find a dealer with one locally...

[Scholzey]

Gasket arrived today looks correct, so dropped it off!!!!! Yesss, soon soon :)

[Scholzey]

well problems never end!! haha distributer decided to shit itself, so i had to go home and pick up my old one and chuck it on. lucky i had one handy!!!

bedded and put some time in on the dyno, changed the oil and put a gate pressure 8000rpm tune for now. obviously vtec can come on way earlier for a better power band, but for now its fine just to get some km on the engine.

the boost creep should sort itself out as the boost get increased, so I'm not worried about that at the moment.

tuner said, he's tuned a lot of engines and by the way this one sounds and acts on the dyno, that he is pretty excited about it.. apparently he's been telling people it should make 500, but we'll see :)

http://a2.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash3/545933_10150632414816743_693486742_9790088_2999425 60_n.jpg

so i'll put a few km on the engine then take it back after easter some time for some real boost :)

so 270fwhp at 7psi?

the things not even started yet and it just about made the same as my first setup :)

keep you guys updated...

oh, the engine sounds NA lol pretty cool

[dougie_504]

Vids please!

[lil_foy]

Holy shit thats huge power, 101 dyno is known to read low too! Going to be a monster!!

[pat88c]

Mmmm look fun just looking at that dyno read out and power at the moment, Cant wait till we see more boost :)

Love your work mate you had sme tuff time with this motor looks like it rewarding you back now or soon :)

[Sexc86]

Nice work mic!

[Riced_Civic]

is that 270 at 7 psi or 270 at 13 psi?????

[DLO01]

^^^ 7 psi.

[Scholzey]

So Its got about 20psi to go, or whenever the turbo runs out :) my gt3076r on the b16 took 12psi to get 300hp, so it's putting it's displacement to good use! Also building boost nice and early. B16 was about 6000 for 20psi. I'm hoping this will spool mid to late 4000's. Anyway, time will tell :)

[dougie_504]

How could you possibly drive such a monster lol

[Monetz]

dam want one of that man lol!!

[89lude]

tru no more hi power aye i thought they were doing this

[Vvvtec]

Same ^

[Scholzey]

I followed a mechanic I trust. He worked at hi power and did my car there the first time, but now he does another job, and having the car at 101 is convenient for him.

[89lude]

ahhh john then yeah i see

[Scholzey]

took a fellow ozhonda memeber for a drive. lol he thought it was pretty fast, but the power band is gay.

cant wait for the tune and having a nice fat power band :P its funny having the wastegate open, then like 3000rpm later vtec kicks in and it actually pulls hard :P

its gunna be fast!

oh stupid wiring is making my car cut out occasionally and not want to start randomly... going to attack it with a soldering iron and heat shrink to sort out old shitty wiring. hopefully it sorts it out...

[Sexc86]

Silver Bullet ! Going to be pretty intense with twice as much power thats for sure!

[Scholzey]

here is a quick vid, slow gear changes and you can hear vtec change over at 6k :P

so power feels like my dyno looks.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WjhZLNRschQ&hd=1


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AJqffQdAiG4&hd=1

oh i was thinking of getting some standard size dba disks i think 4000 series either blanks or slotted, but i need to match them with some pads for street driving. im not worried about dusting, but would like them to not be too noisy. got any suggestions guys?

[DLO01]

Fun!!!

[Scholzey]

my car has been sitting around lonely while i was working up in gladstone. i had an issue with my tacho jumping while accelerating hard. turns out it was a loose connection to my icm. i just had to squeeze the connecter a little before reconnecting them and the problem was solved.

now today im heading back to gladstone for another 4 weeks. so hopefully while im away, or as i get back, i can go for a tune with a bit of power.

i'll let you's know when i know :)

[Scholzey]

omg might be getting tuned today!

[dougie_504]

Sweet!

[DakDak]

Nice man!. It looks like your at full boost by 4500 rpm right? I'm a turncoat and have gone SR20. Was thinking how small displacement engines [ our case 4 banger <2.0] would go with a GT3076. From what I see its responsive!.

[Scholzey]

if you guys want,,...

go to hondata dot com

and download smanager 2.0 for s300

i'll take some datalogs and you can 'play' the datalog back to watch it in real time..

did a log tonight of 100-200 4th gear only, was 6 sec, boost was 15-17-15psi, but i really have to hold on lol

so for boost for that run it was

4330rpm 10psi
4950rpm 15psi

turns mickey thompson 225 50 15 at
~15psi in 3rd... probably a bit less i would say :P

turns crappy street tyres
~14psi in 4th

cant wait to get the timing tweaked. ive just been adjusting fuel myself while having the timing super conservitave, and i also listen with headphones for ping. but its silent on that front :P

[FAITHLESS]

Wow!
This Civic did 208.7mph on salt lake on only 13psi. Had a B18C dart block and head bored to 1.97L. T72 turbo, Skunk2 IM, skunk 2 cams.

http://image.automotive.com/f/news/8794694+pheader/0801_turp_01_z+1999_honda_civic+left_rear_view.jpg

[Scholzey]

Tune locked in for Saturday!!! :)

[turbotegs]

Tune locked in for Saturday!!! :)

updates???????

looking forward to seeing this back at the track.....

[Scholzey]

car makes 430whp on 18psi with about 25psi in the mid range.

no more boost could be made on the top end due to backpressure. an upgrade to turbine housing and a new downpipe will solve this i believe, but i want to keep my air conditioning so i'll have to be happy with this power for now.

also the nut and thread at the end of my driveshaft has clean snapped off on my passenger side. not sure exactly how, but i'll have to get that fixed before i get to the track. im eyeing off some 600hp axles that also repleace the standard hubs for units that have a larger spline section.

[dai-16t]

Is this on E85?

[Scholzey]

bp ultimate

drags will be at least 4 weeks away. gotta order axles and i wont be back from work till about the 26th of this month. i really hope i can get to the track my next time home...

hoping to get 10.xx at 135+mph on street tyres.. but i think my et will not be that low till i get a fresh set of tyres and a prepped track :P

[dai-16t]

Good POWAH matey!

[MSTCHF]

pretty cool build man, i think 25psi is a bit much for bp ultimate though. i think you will struggle with getting more boost out of the 3076, what axles you going for?

[Scholzey]

hmm never showed you guys my power. at hi power with fuel only tuned, and timing conservitive... turns out not as conservitave as i thought! lol

http://a7.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-prn1/553224_10150894656251109_670851729_n.jpg

only a degree or two could be added to the timing :S lol lucky me!

101 graph, obciously the dyno isnt reading properly... looks like torque must be maxed out some how, but lowers enough at the top to see the very end of the power band.

boost vs hp
http://a5.sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-ash4/425381_10151082288966743_2024712866_n.jpg

[Sexc86]

awsome dude ! bring on the traction control unit !

[Scholzey]

bring on my damn axles!! grrrrr if they ever arrive lol
traction control is in a box at my house waiting for my return :D

[Scholzey]

pretty cool build man, i think 25psi is a bit much for bp ultimate though. i think you will struggle with getting more boost out of the 3076, what axles you going for?

DSS 3.9

suppose to be 600hp rated and come with hubs.

[Scholzey]

i'll leave this thread alone till i get engine upgrades. aka new downpipe, turbine housing and turbo to intercooler pipe upgrade from 2 to 2.5 inch.