Oils for DC2R.

[RtN]

Hi was wondering if anyone knew how much performance is actually lost going from 5w30 to 0w40 if any at all?

Reason is because I always use Castrol Edge 5w30, never burns any oil though. I'm reaching 5,000 KMs soon and its been about a year so it definitely needs a change. I want to change from Castrol Edge 5w30 to a proper synthetic.

I heard that Mobil1 5w30 is a Group III blend oil? and that their 0w40 is a group IV oil? Can someone confirm please?

[gumus89]

Why do you want to use the group IV oil?
Do you track? Does your engine see redline a bit too much for street use? :P
Using Xw30 is probably your best bet, as its the right viscosity at operating temperatures to properly lube your engine.
Having 0wXX is also better for protection as its thinner than 5wXX at start up and hence will flow faster and protect more. There would be an insignificant difference though so no worries there.

All you gotta do is weigh up the cost vs the benefit for group3 vs group4

[RtN]

Well no I don't track or redline it on the street, but I want the best for my car (well not to the point of Group V).

I've been having zero oil loss and probably prefer to keep my engine that way. Keep the internals in top notch.

But yeh i'll prob just use Mobil 1 5w30 then. And well the costs aren't that big of a difference considering Castrol Edge is overpriced atm (used to be good with those SCA sales) and OEM is similar priced. Might as well go for Mobil1 considering I only put about 5000 KMs a year, it aint much to pay at all.

[dougie_504]

I'd go 10W-40 personally. If you're having no issues, no leaks, no redlines, no track work etc then there's no point lol. Just warm your car up properly and don't drive it hard until you get to the right temperature, that's when most internal engine wear happens. If you change it every 5000KMs then you'll be fine.

For my CRX I used Nulon 10W-40, which is great oil and not too expensive.
For my daily driven Civic I use Castrol Magnatech 10W-40, which is quite inexpensive and fully synthetic.

[gumus89]

The Magnatec is still only group 3.

It really is up to you. You know that group 4 over group 3 isnt needed so its what you wanna pay.

The oil you use, as long as its ok and is changed properly will not contribute to you losing oil in the future.
And when you do start to lose oil, its still not that bad for your internals to burn it.
Your engine will suffer if you put thicker oil in it, even if you then burn less.
The only downside of burning is that you have to keep an eye on it.

[Bludger]

I use castrol 0w-40, its fine. thinking of changing to 5w30 though.

shell 5w-30. I'm assuming its still a group iv because of the price.

[trism]

For my daily driven Civic I use Castrol Magnatech 10W-40, which is quite inexpensive and fully synthetic.

Incorrect. Its a semi-syn

[RtN]

stupid laws... allowing companies to claim fully-synthetic when they aren't.

[trism]

Well the magnatec 5w30 is fully synth, maybe that's where the confusion comes from. However, its not sold in Australia.

Sent from my custard cannon like Peter North.

[tOniies]

i believe honda has just introduced a synthetic FEO engine oil which is roughly the same price as castrol edge.

[trism]

I believe its made by caltex for honda.

[patsdc2]

Hi was wondering if anyone knew how much performance is actually lost going from 5w30 to 0w40 if any at all?

Reason is because I always use Castrol Edge 5w30, never burns any oil though. I'm reaching 5,000 KMs soon and its been about a year so it definitely needs a change. I want to change from Castrol Edge 5w30 to a proper synthetic.

I heard that Mobil1 5w30 is a Group III blend oil? and that their 0w40 is a group IV oil? Can someone confirm please?

Get the motul 10w40. Good stuff. Oil should be change 1/2 a year or 5,000kms/10,000kms depending on what type of oil you use.

[aaronrein]

penrite 10-50 hpr 10

[gumus89]

I believe its made by caltex for honda.

That would explain the caltex star on top of the bottle.
Doesnt mean anything though, its an oil made by an oil company to a specific formulation asked by Honda.

[Bludger]

penrite 10-50 hpr 10
-one.

[hui]

bit off topic, but do you guys think its okay to mix oils? i have 3L of castrol edge 5-30 and 1.5L of mobil one 10-30 gold from yester years... will it be okay to mix the two together for my next service which is due soon?

[trism]

No.never do this.
Sent from my custard cannon like Peter North.

[tOniies]

I believe its made by caltex for honda.
caltex? LOL must've been out of honda game for ages. The last time i looked at the bottle, it said it was manufactured by honda motors not caltex.

[gumus89]

bit off topic, but do you guys think its okay to mix oils? i have 3L of castrol edge 5-30 and 1.5L of mobil one 10-30 gold from yester years... will it be okay to mix the two together for my next service which is due soon?

No probs man. As long as they are both the right grade for your car. Google is your friend for more answers.

[aaronrein]

what do you mean by "-one" sorry bludger?

[dougie_504]

what do you mean by "-one" sorry bludger?

He means '-1' as opposed to '+1' (IE. He doesn't agree with nor feel neutral about your post, but things you're wrong). He probably just thinks the viscosity you suggested is way too thick for a little high-rev'ing Honda engine, especially coming into Winter...

[gumus89]

He means '-1' as opposed to '+1' (IE. He doesn't agree with nor feel neutral about your post, but things you're wrong). He probably just thinks the viscosity you suggested is way too thick for a little high-rev'ing Honda engine, especially coming into Winter...

Season only affects cold temp. The hot temp should be the same.

[krogoth]

10w-40 extra 10 full synthetic everyday penrite, great oil, aussie made

[aaronng]

A bit late, but I hope that the threadstarter stuck with the oil that he was using. If he was happy with it and had no oil consumption, then he should stick to it (Edge 5w-30). For street use, there is not much difference going from Group III to Group IV or going from 5w-30 to 0w-40.

[aaronrein]

10w-40 extra 10 full synthetic everyday penrite, great oil, aussie made

thats the other id suggest (y)

[gumus89]

A bit late, but I hope that the threadstarter stuck with the oil that he was using. If he was happy with it and had no oil consumption, then he should stick to it (Edge 5w-30). For street use, there is not much difference going from Group III to Group IV or going from 5w-30 to 0w-40.

Quoted for truth.
The only difference would be not noticeably less wear at start up with the group 4. Ive read something about group 4's being thinner for the same viscosity rating under that standard. If that was true then there wouldnt a loss of power from the 0w-40 at operating temp.

[Bludger]

I've been using Castrol 0w-40 for the last 5 years.

Thinking of going Shell or Mobil 5w-30.

[aaronng]

Quoted for truth.
The only difference would be not noticeably less wear at start up with the group 4. Ive read something about group 4's being thinner for the same viscosity rating under that standard. If that was true then there wouldnt a loss of power from the 0w-40 at operating temp.

If the viscosity rating is the same, then both oils will have the same thickness. If you have a group 4 that is thinner, then the viscosity rating would be lower.

The difference between a 5w-30 and 0w-40 is small enough that you wouldn't be able to measure the power loss on a dyno as the dyno is not sensitive and accurate enough.

Viscosity is only a measurement of the resistance to flow. It does not measure how slippery the oil is. For example, water has a very very low viscosity compared to oil, but is not really "slippery". Oil on the other hand is much higher viscosity and you can see with your own eyes that it is thicker than water. But when put to use as a lubricant, it is more slippery than water, hence giving it better protection properties.

One unknown difference between a Group III and Group IV is that a Group III will tend to cling to metal surfaces for longer, whereas Group IV tends to be less attracted to metal. Not an issue if you drive daily though, only worth taking it into account if you only drive once a week.

[gumus89]

If the viscosity rating is the same, then both oils will have the same thickness. If you have a group 4 that is thinner, then the viscosity rating would be lower.

The difference between a 5w-30 and 0w-40 is small enough that you wouldn't be able to measure the power loss on a dyno as the dyno is not sensitive and accurate enough.

Viscosity is only a measurement of the resistance to flow. It does not measure how slippery the oil is. For example, water has a very very low viscosity compared to oil, but is not really "slippery". Oil on the other hand is much higher viscosity and you can see with your own eyes that it is thicker than water. But when put to use as a lubricant, it is more slippery than water, hence giving it better protection properties.

One unknown difference between a Group III and Group IV is that a Group III will tend to cling to metal surfaces for longer, whereas Group IV tends to be less attracted to metal. Not an issue if you drive daily though, only worth taking it into account if you only drive once a week.

Cool.
Just to clarify what I have read. It seems the standard of viscosity rating are measured at 40 deg C, 105 deg C and 150 deg C. But at room temperature, the synthetic oils will be thinner than their mineral counterparts. This is out of the Bob is the oil guy website.

"A main advantage that the synthetic has over the mineral based oil is the ability to lubricate at startup. Both types of oil have the same specifications at 104°F, 212°F and 302°F. It is the startup viscosity characteristics that separate these oils. Synthetic oils do not thicken as much on cooling. They have better fluidity as the temperature drops.

A synthetic oil that is labeled as 10W-30 is less honey like as a mineral based 10W-30 motor oil at startup. They both have a thickness of 10 at normal operating temperatures. At 75°F the synthetic is not as thick. At 32°F the difference between the two is even greater. At 0°F the mineral oil is useless yet the synthetic works fairly well. Just keep the RPM to a minimum."


He also mentions that the ability for an oil to protect is not due to the oil sticking to the parts, but moreso the flow of oil between the parts.
"Some people have said they use thicker oils because they only use their cars every 2, 3 or 4 weeks. They are afraid that thin oils will fall off the engine parts and result in a lack of lubrication at startup... Anyway, oil on the surface of parts does not lubricate. It is the FLOW of oil between parts that lubricates. Thick, old, waxy oil can only be bad."

I cant afford group 4 oils anyway so it doesnt really bother me :P

[RtN]

I just went with Mobil 1 5w-30. Seems a safe bet.

[jks24]

my mate runs Royal Purple 10w-40 in his DC2R, same as me..we change every 5000kms

[gumus89]

Do you hold each others hands while you do it :D

[SuperJDM.]

Do you hold each others hands while you do it :D

HAHHAHAHAHA perfect response