View Full Version : Carbon Clutch slipping : RESOLVED
hey guys..
changed my sump yesterday, and obviously new oil motul 5-40 fully synthetic.
however, after a quick drive.. noticed my clutch is slipping. cruising in 3rd gear and plant my foot down and it will not hold.
its a Carbon Exedy R, which i know does not last long.. but its probably had about 12-13k kms of daily driving on it..
oil change and drivetrain is completely unrelated, however, i did a quick google search and it seems the issue happens in motorcylces ?
just coincidence ?
Jccck
09-07-2011, 10:03 AM
I've actually heard of this happening on a Honda before, CB7.. F22A Motor.. Saw it on forums years back.
Surely it'd be impossible to get oil inside your bell housing though?
motorcylces run a wet clutch: clutch is submerged in engine oil under operation. hence, when a synthetic oil is used, it may cause the clutch to slip..
my car doesnt have a wet clutch system lol.. sigh
mocchi
09-07-2011, 11:24 AM
hey guys..
changed my sump yesterday, and obviously new oil motul 5-40 fully synthetic.
however, after a quick drive.. noticed my clutch is slipping. cruising in 3rd gear and plant my foot down and it will not hold.
its a Carbon Exedy R, which i know does not last long.. but its probably had about 12-13k kms of daily driving on it..
oil change and drivetrain is completely unrelated, however, i did a quick google search and it seems the issue happens in motorcylces ?
just coincidence ?
what car is it?
bennjamin
09-07-2011, 11:44 AM
Car or motorbike ?
Car = leaking main rear seal (located behind the flywheel) oil is seeping thru and getting onto the flywheel or clutch , and with rpm/inertia it creates slip
Bike = wrong oil for the wet clutch. Either car oil used or wrong viscosity creating slip
hitoriko
09-07-2011, 02:13 PM
Car or motorbike ?
Car = leaking main rear seal (located behind the flywheel) oil is seeping thru and getting onto the flywheel or clutch , and with rpm/inertia it creates slip
Bike = wrong oil for the wet clutch. Either car oil used or wrong viscosity creating slip
100%
i dare say when you removed your sump you might have tapped the seal out abit and thats whats causing it. check your oil and check your driveway and see if there is any leaks also
trism
09-07-2011, 02:43 PM
+1 also on the rear main
Motor is k20a
If rear main seal leaks, which it has been.. It may be because im using a thinner oil? And its seeping through more now?
If it does leak, would it be on the backside of the fly? Non cutch side..
mocchi
09-07-2011, 11:45 PM
has been? dont think it matters what oil you use, it should not leak.
bennjamin
10-07-2011, 09:49 AM
Motor is k20a
If rear main seal leaks, which it has been.. It may be because im using a thinner oil? And its seeping through more now?
If it does leak, would it be on the backside of the fly? Non cutch side..
as my post said dude with inertia , the oil transfers from the very back of the flywheel to beyond - including the clutch disc/pressure plate etc. It is possible with a different(thinner) oil it can seep. If its severe you can see it leaking thru the flywheel check plate area !
munkaii
10-07-2011, 10:16 AM
As ben said, remove flywheel cover and have a look for yourself. Though if it has already started dispersing oil, then changing oil won't rid of the oil that has seeped passed the rear main seal. Was the clutch done recently? If you have the time zico, it's probably best to open it up and change it anyway, rather than frying the clutch. It's a pretty cheap service part.
i'll pull the box apart and get the rear main seal changed..
while im at it, i'll have a look at the clutch disc to see if its burnt or not..
if its okay, but wet due to the oil on it.. would it be okay to just clean it up and reuse clutch ?
clutch was done 2 years ago..
when the clutch slips, i dont smell anything so im assuming the clutch is nto actually burning/worn.. unless carbon has no smell when it burns ?
krogoth
11-07-2011, 09:45 AM
ok, bit of a nub question, when you talk about the rear main seal, you are referring to the rear main crankshaft seal yes??
why would changing the sump affect that seal? i didnt think you could just accidentally knock it around or out of place?
also, isnt the bottom of the rear main seal a little higher than the sump/block join? what im trying to say is, i would have assumed the rear main seal wouldnt really get THAT much oil on it in the first place for it to become a problem where a leaky seal lets a significant amount of oil onto the flywhee/clutch assembly...
mocchi
11-07-2011, 10:38 AM
ok, bit of a nub question, when you talk about the rear main seal, you are referring to the rear main crankshaft seal yes??
why would changing the sump affect that seal? i didnt think you could just accidentally knock it around or out of place?
also, isnt the bottom of the rear main seal a little higher than the sump/block join? what im trying to say is, i would have assumed the rear main seal wouldnt really get THAT much oil on it in the first place for it to become a problem where a leaky seal lets a significant amount of oil onto the flywhee/clutch assembly...
Yea thats right, crankshaft oil seal. He said it was previously leaking. Not sure if it was replaced properly or not.
I think the seal is like metal ring covered in rubber, the ring might've bend during installation when it was replaced. They might've tapped the seal on one side at a time using hammer. In the manual it uses a driver that spans across the diameter of oil seal.
Oil leak from the pan can still go to flywheel if there is no flywheel cover when driving. wind blows.
my car leaks oil :(
::might even be transmission oil leaking for all we know. Can't see shit over the net lolol.
Ok, so after talking to my friend (previous owner) he says it is impossible the Clutch is worn. He barely put 5000kms on it in the 2years of installing it. I have since put 2000kms on it in 4weeks lol! Anyway, he told me to read the instructions on how to use the clutch.. And behold, he wasn't kidding!
As for the rear main seal, I think i'll just leave it until it is leaking bad..
See pic below for instructions and reasons why slippage occurs. Lol
Time to go out and apply these instructions ! Hope it works ! Turns out carbon clutches are not like your average metallic clutch !
krogoth
14-07-2011, 09:24 AM
lol well thats interesting, 5 second slips of the clutch within 30 seconds? lollll
let us know how you go
Yeh sounds abit extreme lol ! 5secs , 3 times = 15seconds. Sounds like ultimate burnage haha
But at 2000rpm I hope it's fine rofl
Ok just went for a test drive.. Seems like it's holding up quite well !
Obviously didn't have a safe strip to fully test it out, but will put my mind at ease prior to heading to wsid !
krogoth
14-07-2011, 12:32 PM
very interesting..............at least its holding up now..
never heard of a crankshaft main seal deteriorating/knocked badly enough to allow enough oil to come through and get into the flywheel/clutch etc..
but ive also never heard of a clutch needing such a warm up procedure? lol
yehh.. i still find it difficult to understand how the oil can seep through from the rear main seal, through the flywheel. over to the clutch side.. even if it was "momentum/intertia", the oil would just fly off to the side of the gearbox housing
in regards to the clutch, maybe because no one uses carbon clutches.. LOL
As the info suggests, carbon products be they clutches, brakes etc do not work well at low temps and actually enjoy being given a hard time, its what they are made to do.
My ATS unit is very similar and driving like miss daisy just doesnt get it hot enough so give it a hard time first thing ( but after warming the engine up ) and you'll find it much more usable without the slip.
I love mine, 170 odd kw and a single plate, never gives any grief or slip, and when it came off after a few months, still looked like new and didnt measure much different.
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